Cleaning engines
10-31-2010, 09:22 PM
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RE: Cleaning engines
ORIGINAL: combatpigg
Oh yah?
Well I magnaflux all the moving parts then de-magnetize the cranks after every outing, too...[8D]
Oh yah?
Well I magnaflux all the moving parts then de-magnetize the cranks after every outing, too...[8D]
10-31-2010, 10:01 PM
#7
RE: Cleaning engines
My favorite (liquid, afterun oil, assembly oil) is 50% Marvel Mystery Air Tool Oil and 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid. It will protect and "pickle" any engine for future use.
10-31-2010, 10:57 PM
#8
RE: Cleaning engines
ORIGINAL: unclecrash
Ya lost me please explain
ORIGINAL: combatpigg
Oh yah?
Well I magnaflux all the moving parts then de-magnetize the cranks after every outing, too...[8D]
Oh yah?
Well I magnaflux all the moving parts then de-magnetize the cranks after every outing, too...[8D]
I think ya forgot the Zyglo and dye penetrant checks of all the Alum. parts...
(just being a wise ***** )
I use a spray carb cleaner, like Gummout, then oil 'em up w/ air tool oil. (on engines w/o plastic parts )
I put some old fuel in a small glass jar, for soaking Medallions, Tee Dee's etc.
10-31-2010, 11:08 PM
#9
RE: Cleaning engines
UC, tranny fluid is about the same as MMO and does a nice job.
Magnaflux is how you inspect iron parts for cracks.
De-magnetizing the crank is something I heard about in the control line speed forums, to relieve some infintessimal amount of drag? I'm skeptical....could be an urban legend.
Magnaflux is how you inspect iron parts for cracks.
De-magnetizing the crank is something I heard about in the control line speed forums, to relieve some infintessimal amount of drag? I'm skeptical....could be an urban legend.
11-01-2010, 11:44 AM
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RE: Cleaning engines
I used MMO for many years in model airplane engines and in automotive engines and I found that some model engines started to stick in storage after a few years. I will use the MMO supply up a pint at a time in the car fuels to get the top lube benefit and I have switched over 100% to MMO Air Tool Oil. I like the idea of 50/50 Air Tool and ATF to get the rust inhibitors and the ATF friction modifiers into the little ones.
CP...I have no idea about demagnetizing cranks in control line racers, but in the Automotive High Performance world many shops do it. My understanding is that it keeps the crankshaft from attracting the fine magnetic particles too small for the oil filter to catch. As they build up on the crank bearing surface , I guess that it is conceivable that small friction would happen. I think the small particles would just erode the bearing material like fine grit emory paper. I have never had one of my steel cranks demagnitized since I either run a magnetic oil drain plug or put a few Northen Tool rare earth magnets in key oil flow locations. I might try it next time I build another Chev engine....
CP...I have no idea about demagnetizing cranks in control line racers, but in the Automotive High Performance world many shops do it. My understanding is that it keeps the crankshaft from attracting the fine magnetic particles too small for the oil filter to catch. As they build up on the crank bearing surface , I guess that it is conceivable that small friction would happen. I think the small particles would just erode the bearing material like fine grit emory paper. I have never had one of my steel cranks demagnitized since I either run a magnetic oil drain plug or put a few Northen Tool rare earth magnets in key oil flow locations. I might try it next time I build another Chev engine....
11-01-2010, 06:23 PM
#11
RE: Cleaning engines
ORIGINAL: 66Malibu
I used MMO for many years in model airplane engines and in automotive engines and I found that some model engines started to stick in storage after a few years. I will use the MMO supply up a pint at a time in the car fuels to get the top lube benefit and I have switched over 100% to MMO Air Tool Oil. I like the idea of 50/50 Air Tool and ATF to get the rust inhibitors and the ATF friction modifiers into the little ones.
I used MMO for many years in model airplane engines and in automotive engines and I found that some model engines started to stick in storage after a few years. I will use the MMO supply up a pint at a time in the car fuels to get the top lube benefit and I have switched over 100% to MMO Air Tool Oil. I like the idea of 50/50 Air Tool and ATF to get the rust inhibitors and the ATF friction modifiers into the little ones.
I have had good luck with both Campbell Hausfeld air tool oil and Rislone.
George
11-02-2010, 01:33 PM
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RE: Cleaning engines
ORIGINAL: combatpigg
....De-magnetizing the crank is something I heard about in the control line speed forums, to relieve some infintessimal amount of drag? I'm skeptical....could be an urban legend.
....De-magnetizing the crank is something I heard about in the control line speed forums, to relieve some infintessimal amount of drag? I'm skeptical....could be an urban legend.
ARE YOU KIDDING!?!?!?! Demagnatizing is ESSENTIAL! ! ! ! Without it the EMF generated in the surrounding metals can set up a spinning field. And at the RPM of model race engines it's common to open a rift in the space-time continuum to the other side. I've seen guys who's engines failed in flight and upon stripping them down the crank pin and half the conrods were just plain GONE! The other common generator of such rifts is the home dryer. Where do you THINK all those mismatched socks come from. They pop back and forth through the rift as commonly as my cat wants in and out!
Unclecrash, in case you haven't picked up on it the guys are just feeling their oats
Marvel mystery oil is fairly commonly available and a small tin will last for a huge portion of your life in the way we use it. I've also used the red color automatic transmission fluid cut with a bit of mineral spirits and found that works nicely as well. Actually even WD40 does a nice job for this use. Being a water displacing product it also does a nice job of removing and getting under the alchohal film. And it's the alchohal with its affinity for water in the air that can lead to rust in some cases.
Mind you engines that I cleaned and lubed with 3in1 and bagged are in as nice a condition today as when I bagged them years ago.
11-02-2010, 08:11 PM
#13
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RE: Cleaning engines
There is no space-time continum thats purely a myth, everybody knows the dryer socks go into the universal vortex ghaaaa!
Thats why there are no pictures of bigfoot,the only creature that can step in and out of the vortex,,down here in the south however they are called nesters, we dont find footprints cause they live in the trees...same reason when you crash in the woods you never find the plane...cause no one looks up!!...wonder how crazy this is gonna get?...Rog
Thats why there are no pictures of bigfoot,the only creature that can step in and out of the vortex,,down here in the south however they are called nesters, we dont find footprints cause they live in the trees...same reason when you crash in the woods you never find the plane...cause no one looks up!!...wonder how crazy this is gonna get?...Rog
11-02-2010, 09:50 PM
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RE: Cleaning engines
And here the ULTIMATE in after-run oil. Xena's "Xenalube" for external and internal use (engines only) 
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=10&page=1
Bernie
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=10&page=1
Bernie
11-02-2010, 09:50 PM
#15
RE: Cleaning engines
Oh yah?
Well I magnaflux all the moving parts then de-magnetize the cranks after every outing, too...
Well I magnaflux all the moving parts then de-magnetize the cranks after every outing, too...
same reason when you crash in the woods you never find the plane
11-02-2010, 10:24 PM
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RE: Cleaning engines
ORIGINAL: BMatthews
ARE YOU KIDDING!?!?!?! Demagnatizing is ESSENTIAL! ! ! ! Without it the EMF generated in the surrounding metals can set up a spinning field. And at the RPM of model race engines it's common to open a rift in the space-time continuum to the other side. I've seen guys who's engines failed in flight and upon stripping them down the crank pin and half the conrods were just plain GONE! The other common generator of such rifts is the home dryer. Where do you THINK all those mismatched socks come from. They pop back and forth through the rift as commonly as my cat wants in and out!
Unclecrash, in case you haven't picked up on it the guys are just feeling their oats
Marvel mystery oil is fairly commonly available and a small tin will last for a huge portion of your life in the way we use it. I've also used the red color automatic transmission fluid cut with a bit of mineral spirits and found that works nicely as well. Actually even WD40 does a nice job for this use. Being a water displacing product it also does a nice job of removing and getting under the alchohal film. And it's the alchohal with its affinity for water in the air that can lead to rust in some cases.
Mind you engines that I cleaned and lubed with 3in1 and bagged are in as nice a condition today as when I bagged them years ago.
ORIGINAL: combatpigg
....De-magnetizing the crank is something I heard about in the control line speed forums, to relieve some infintessimal amount of drag? I'm skeptical....could be an urban legend.
....De-magnetizing the crank is something I heard about in the control line speed forums, to relieve some infintessimal amount of drag? I'm skeptical....could be an urban legend.
ARE YOU KIDDING!?!?!?! Demagnatizing is ESSENTIAL! ! ! ! Without it the EMF generated in the surrounding metals can set up a spinning field. And at the RPM of model race engines it's common to open a rift in the space-time continuum to the other side. I've seen guys who's engines failed in flight and upon stripping them down the crank pin and half the conrods were just plain GONE! The other common generator of such rifts is the home dryer. Where do you THINK all those mismatched socks come from. They pop back and forth through the rift as commonly as my cat wants in and out!
Unclecrash, in case you haven't picked up on it the guys are just feeling their oats
Marvel mystery oil is fairly commonly available and a small tin will last for a huge portion of your life in the way we use it. I've also used the red color automatic transmission fluid cut with a bit of mineral spirits and found that works nicely as well. Actually even WD40 does a nice job for this use. Being a water displacing product it also does a nice job of removing and getting under the alchohal film. And it's the alchohal with its affinity for water in the air that can lead to rust in some cases.
Mind you engines that I cleaned and lubed with 3in1 and bagged are in as nice a condition today as when I bagged them years ago.
11-02-2010, 10:30 PM
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RE: Cleaning engines
One of the reasons I was asking I been seeing on the 010 tanks some deteriation of the plastic where the nipple gets eatin off and aroung the area there will be white residue and the plastic will be soft Wondering if certain oil or fuel was doing this. And was also wondering what the best way to preserve the plastic parts would be.
11-03-2010, 02:01 AM
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RE: Cleaning engines
Now how the plastic is affected could well have something to do with oils and solvents used on the engine. But don't forget UV exposure. I've found that engines that sit in a cool dark place seem to do fine. Those sitting out on a shelf where the sun can get to them not so well over time. But it's also quite possible that some oils and solvents can hasten their demise as well.
11-03-2010, 05:54 AM
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RE: Cleaning engines
This had to be something either cox or the person who owned it used to store it or maybe run at factory if they did that. Its an 010 that was suppose to be new old stock. The motor was new but what ever went through the fuel line ate the tank up. I also had a tank I bought for the 010 new in cox pack that had the same white area around the nipple and a bit soft. Thats what has me puzzled. The new tank maybe it was a release agent they were using. I thought fuel maybe oil, on the engine,but then I got the tank with the same thing happening.
11-03-2010, 01:42 PM
#20
RE: Cleaning engines
ORIGINAL: BMatthews
...Mind you engines that I cleaned and lubed with 3in1 and bagged are in as nice a condition today as when I bagged them years ago.
...Mind you engines that I cleaned and lubed with 3in1 and bagged are in as nice a condition today as when I bagged them years ago.
George
11-03-2010, 01:46 PM
#21
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RE: Cleaning engines
ORIGINAL: flyinrog
There is no space-time continum thats purely a myth, everybody knows the dryer socks go into the universal vortex ghaaaa!
Thats why there are no pictures of bigfoot,the only creature that can step in and out of the vortex,,down here in the south however they are called nesters, we dont find footprints cause they live in the trees...same reason when you crash in the woods you never find the plane...cause no one looks up!!...wonder how crazy this is gonna get?...Rog
There is no space-time continum thats purely a myth, everybody knows the dryer socks go into the universal vortex ghaaaa!
Thats why there are no pictures of bigfoot,the only creature that can step in and out of the vortex,,down here in the south however they are called nesters, we dont find footprints cause they live in the trees...same reason when you crash in the woods you never find the plane...cause no one looks up!!...wonder how crazy this is gonna get?...Rog
When you put a pair of socks in the dryer, one slips off into the parallel universe. When you open the dryer, one of them is gone, RIGHT? And there's only one LEFT.
11-03-2010, 02:21 PM
#22
RE: Cleaning engines
I've also had some new, old stock Cox plastic parts that were very soft and crumbly. A couple of my regular runners have to be handled carefully. Some of the plastic made back in the day had inconsistent quality characteristics. I work in that industry and the quality consistency and control is much better these days.
11-05-2010, 07:03 AM
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RE: Cleaning engines
Its funny how the plastic can get brittle and crumble. last year I built an topflight p51 arf for a friend and I noticed the control horn for the tail wheel was crumbly. I actually broke the first one just tighting it on the rod. he bought a replacement I installed it. He took it to go do the maiden and he said all I did was set it down and it broke again. He said he took it off and grabbed it with a little pressure and it crumbled into powder. he should have picked me up for the maiden
he should have picked me up for the maiden
