Ply Eggshell Fuselage -"Lil Miss Butter Knife" TD .09 4ch Knife Edging Stunt Plane!
02-07-2015, 02:34 AM
#151
Thread Starter
There will be one more aluminum fabricated part for the engines top half cowling and perhaps an integrated dual exhaust to collect and guide the goo in the right direction.
02-07-2015, 10:13 AM
#152
Thread Starter
8-32 nylon bolts are good up to 25 size planes you can buy these cheap on ebay I had 4 on hand went ahead and bought a 100 count bag for 6 bucks free shipping.
One trick I use is to have a free floating wood buck board sub plate under the landing gear, if the bolts shear the buck plate is remove to expose enough thread to grab with your fingers to remove and prep for a new set of bolts. Before I learned that trick I had to use an exacto blade to create a grove for a screw driver or just dig in the tip of the blade to turn it out enough to grab on to.. pain in der butt. By using a threaded landing gear the shearing happens under the landing gear leaving the nylon washers held fast for reuse rather than losing them in the grass, dirt etc.
One trick I use is to have a free floating wood buck board sub plate under the landing gear, if the bolts shear the buck plate is remove to expose enough thread to grab with your fingers to remove and prep for a new set of bolts. Before I learned that trick I had to use an exacto blade to create a grove for a screw driver or just dig in the tip of the blade to turn it out enough to grab on to.. pain in der butt. By using a threaded landing gear the shearing happens under the landing gear leaving the nylon washers held fast for reuse rather than losing them in the grass, dirt etc.
02-07-2015, 12:43 PM
#153
It turned out nice.!
The glued axle threads is a good idea..[when you do it on purpose].
Not so good when it happens by accident.
I like the idea of an aluminum cowl. I've got a book written by Ron Fournier called the Metal Fabricator's Handbook and he has a pretty good section devoted to forming and welding aluminum. He doesn't show any model plane scale work, but the book still shows a lot of tricks and techniques for how to do some pretty fancy forming.
A few years ago I saw a story about a young man who some how duplicated a 1941 Willys Coupe in 100% hand formed aluminum while he was enrolled at a trade school.
I'm going to go now and try to find that story again.
The glued axle threads is a good idea..[when you do it on purpose].
Not so good when it happens by accident.
I like the idea of an aluminum cowl. I've got a book written by Ron Fournier called the Metal Fabricator's Handbook and he has a pretty good section devoted to forming and welding aluminum. He doesn't show any model plane scale work, but the book still shows a lot of tricks and techniques for how to do some pretty fancy forming.
A few years ago I saw a story about a young man who some how duplicated a 1941 Willys Coupe in 100% hand formed aluminum while he was enrolled at a trade school.
I'm going to go now and try to find that story again.
02-07-2015, 07:29 PM
#155
There's a lot of wood working and model building skill involved with building a full sized "Station Buck", which is a full size model....[a plywood skeleton] that the sheet metal panels are form fit to.
To this day, I think gas welded aluminum cowls and other thin parts is preferred to TIG because the weld is less prone to cracking.
To this day, I think gas welded aluminum cowls and other thin parts is preferred to TIG because the weld is less prone to cracking.
02-07-2015, 11:06 PM
#156
Thread Starter
I made a cowl for a 40 size Eindecker few years back and used a leather mallet and wood male form to pound the aluminum into submission.
The finish came out very smooth considering the brutal method used to form the shape. A English wheel would be a plus to have if I had enough need for one.
This cowling will be a breeze to make I have a rough out shown in this pic. A simle half moon rap with engine cutout low enough to clear the needle valve and fuel line.
The finish came out very smooth considering the brutal method used to form the shape. A English wheel would be a plus to have if I had enough need for one.
This cowling will be a breeze to make I have a rough out shown in this pic. A simle half moon rap with engine cutout low enough to clear the needle valve and fuel line.
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 02-13-2015 at 09:21 PM.
02-10-2015, 07:49 AM
#158
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Originally from Northern New Jersey, but as of 2014 reside in Hastings, Florida
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Funny. That story reminds me that when I was 14 or so, I really admired the Eindecker, and doing so, got as far as scratch building an entire fuse and tail based of a skeleton view I had in an old aviation book. I then hammered a cowl out of copper (because I liked the look) using techniques similar to auto body work that my father had taught me, using balsa blocks and a small rubber mallet, instead of the standard steel body blocks and body hammer used in automotive. I then soldered the parts together. It was quite the piece of work, but I got rid of it sometime in college.
03-08-2015, 03:15 AM
#160
Thread Starter
Can recommend these CNC machined aluminum wheel collars for the Parkzone Sport Cub has a 2.5 mm bore matches the wheel bolts I used.
Also bought a bag of 5 mm threaded nylon bolts had to buy a lot of 100 lol but cheap less than 4 bucks no shipping fee. I'm set for years 05 to 40 size planes. I have also used these for mid wing attachment bolts the next project is a mid wing having two separate wing panels.
Nice and light weight unlike steel wheel collars.
Also bought a bag of 5 mm threaded nylon bolts had to buy a lot of 100 lol but cheap less than 4 bucks no shipping fee. I'm set for years 05 to 40 size planes. I have also used these for mid wing attachment bolts the next project is a mid wing having two separate wing panels.
Nice and light weight unlike steel wheel collars.
03-08-2015, 02:58 PM
#162
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Originally from Northern New Jersey, but as of 2014 reside in Hastings, Florida
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, those are nice wheel collars. A lot nicer than the standard slip over type. I should order a set for the Headwind I'm building. By the way, what brand wheels are those? They look like Williams Bros, or maybe Dubro vintage line?
03-08-2015, 03:55 PM
#163
Thread Starter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171665262232...#ht_215wt_1127
- 3.99 free shipping
The wheels are by Williams Brothers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271682393019...ht_1989wt_1127
- 10.04 free shipping
Lol agreed on hardware and continue to do so from time to time. These days I have horded quite a bit or scavenged it off scraped planes.
Sometimes I buy and realize I already had what I needed a little looking through the bins goes a long way.
- 3.99 free shipping
The wheels are by Williams Brothers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271682393019...ht_1989wt_1127
- 10.04 free shipping
Lol agreed on hardware and continue to do so from time to time. These days I have horded quite a bit or scavenged it off scraped planes.
Sometimes I buy and realize I already had what I needed a little looking through the bins goes a long way.
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-08-2015 at 03:57 PM.
03-09-2015, 05:20 AM
#164
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Orangeville, ON, CANADA
Posts: 8,658
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
No kidding on hardware purchases. I've been rooting through bins and sorting stuff since the Xmas holidays. After 357 trips to the hobby shop where everytime I go "hmm, better grab a pack of those, and some of these.." .. I have so much hardware in stock I shocked myself. Our local hardware had shoebox bins and a smaller size on sale cheap cheap, I bought 25 of the shoebox and 50 of the small and have been sorting bits into them ever since. Now I have numerous small bins of junk instead of several large bins of junk. Yet, even though I still have 30-40 new small control horns from a bulk bag I raided 20 years ago (hee hee), I also still find torn up sections of aircraft with a single control horn hanging from scrap, that I planned to salvage some day. Maybe I'm becoming one of those hoarders I always make fun of. Throw it out already!
03-09-2015, 07:45 PM
#166
Thread Starter
Yes for me its the wrong size set of bolts with matching nylon locking nuts. I have 2 or 1 need need 4 kind of deal. For cleaning nylon horns and parts I use trichlorethylene spray evaporates fast easy clean up.
03-16-2015, 06:52 PM
#167
Thread Starter
.09 TD crank came in you can see the shadow where she no rub on the old crank it matches the opening in the TD Crank intake.
Major power boosting upgrade also have a TD HC head on the cylinder should make for a peppy back up motor for the Lil Miss.
Lucky for me I had a package of phenolic .09 thrust washers for the prop plate as the medallion doesn't come with even a steel one.
All up weight with prop and new crank 94.7g
Major power boosting upgrade also have a TD HC head on the cylinder should make for a peppy back up motor for the Lil Miss.
Lucky for me I had a package of phenolic .09 thrust washers for the prop plate as the medallion doesn't come with even a steel one.
All up weight with prop and new crank 94.7g
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-16-2015 at 06:55 PM.
03-16-2015, 07:22 PM
#168
That's a real easy looking engine to cowl, too.
The only Medallion .09 I've ever seen in action was used to haul a Hobby Shack SST around. The owner really got his money's worth out of that combo. He always used home made air filters on his stuff.
The only Medallion .09 I've ever seen in action was used to haul a Hobby Shack SST around. The owner really got his money's worth out of that combo. He always used home made air filters on his stuff.
03-16-2015, 07:43 PM
#169
Thread Starter
The stock crank was a bit gummed up and the engine didnt turn over with a nice pop the engine has never been ran just sat for years with the oil drying up inside. Now it flips over lovely with a clean crank.
I picked up a Medallion back in the early 90s it made pretty good power with a stock glow plug that never burned out... flown on a fugly stick looking plane I flew the crap out of it for a summer no throttle just set the needle chuck it and rip the air till the engine dies on 1 oz of fuel think I was using a 7 x 4 if I recall. Back then if I had some gumption I should have fabricated a exhaust sleeve would have kept the engine for old times sake.
I picked up a Medallion back in the early 90s it made pretty good power with a stock glow plug that never burned out... flown on a fugly stick looking plane I flew the crap out of it for a summer no throttle just set the needle chuck it and rip the air till the engine dies on 1 oz of fuel think I was using a 7 x 4 if I recall. Back then if I had some gumption I should have fabricated a exhaust sleeve would have kept the engine for old times sake.
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-16-2015 at 07:46 PM.
03-17-2015, 02:33 AM
#171
Thread Starter
Cox progressed from a thin walled cylinder single port versions to what you see now a duel ported thick wall, other than that there was consistency in design. The ball socket was improved to a harder socket metal. The .15 went through the same transitions. I have a .049 /.09 and .15 Seen a .049 single port /1 single port .09 cylinder and 3 .09's with duel ports. Of course in the end they started double slits on the .049's to avoid flash heat to plastic and flesh. I have not noticed any difference with piston fit taper at TDC.
03-17-2015, 04:18 AM
#172
Thread Starter
Here is a good view of each venturi - with the now stock TD crank on the Medallion but the TD on the right has a rare high performance crank as the fly wheel is the V style and weighs less the turbo head adapter is one Bill sent me by Ron Valentine using a OS RP6 plug. Perhaps along with the larger diameter unrestricted venturi and performance crank I may see as much as a 2k spread between the two engines.
03-17-2015, 11:25 AM
#174
Thread Starter
Yes sometimes you can get them pretty cheap this last one had a lot of bidders trying for it do to the throttle sleeve which has become pretty rare to find a mint never ran 09 with a sleeve. I have taken a few chances in the past with used and with a bit of clean up they are good to go.
03-21-2015, 01:27 PM
#175
Thread Starter
Hey Chuck my ASP .12 came in took about 3 weeks in the mail.
I did a compare to the AP .09 Hornet then took the carbs off both engines and did a swap perfect fit. The idea is to improve the low end idle
of the .09 as the ASP has the low end adjustment for those that aren't aware. They are the same length and now near the same weight with the carb swap.
The carb intakes are different ASP has a bit more dia. which may help the .09 to top out a hair more rpm. I have a MA 6.5 x 3.5 on the ASP for a reasonable
mix of thrust and speed. rated 3k to 19k recommended prop 7 x 4 so maybe 6 x 5 at 21k unloaded for 100 mph
8.4g difference in weight with the carb swap.
I did a compare to the AP .09 Hornet then took the carbs off both engines and did a swap perfect fit. The idea is to improve the low end idle
of the .09 as the ASP has the low end adjustment for those that aren't aware. They are the same length and now near the same weight with the carb swap.
The carb intakes are different ASP has a bit more dia. which may help the .09 to top out a hair more rpm. I have a MA 6.5 x 3.5 on the ASP for a reasonable
mix of thrust and speed. rated 3k to 19k recommended prop 7 x 4 so maybe 6 x 5 at 21k unloaded for 100 mph
8.4g difference in weight with the carb swap.