Painting Epoxy
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Painting Epoxy
I'm reaching out again to tap into your sources for cheap brushes to paint on epoxy (fuel proofing). It is getting kind of steep buying the brushes from my LHS (almost a buck a piece after all is said and done). Is there a way you could use these brushes again? (yes I'm frugal every penny counts)
Any help counts thanks
Any help counts thanks
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RE: Painting Epoxy
I used to have some sturdy cups that I could peel the epoxy out of. Find some acid brushes. You can get 36 for about five bucks from Harbor Freight. Anybody that has soldering stuff probably has them.
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RE: Painting Epoxy
You can use them again if you clean them out with denatured alcohol. You have to be very persistent, though and you'll probably have to change out the alcohol once or twice to clean one brush. Are you using the cheapo epoxy brushes with the metal handles? That is what I use for fuel proofing. You should be able to get a pack of those for a couple bucks at Home Depot or somewhere like that.
Brian
Brian
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RE: Painting Epoxy
Home Depot and Menards has soldering brushes for about 10 cents a piece. They are a metal handle and some pretty stiff bristles but they work great for fuel proofing and I just chuck 'em when I'm done. Waxed paper dixie cups for mixing. Ten million for a nickel I think[sm=stupid.gif].
Ok, maybe they went up a little...
Ok, maybe they went up a little...
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RE: Painting Epoxy
How about rubber band a small flap of foam rubber around a popsicle stick. Make it thin so it doesn't soak up a lot of epoxy. Maybe 1/8 thick by 1/2 wide by about 1 1/4 long. Cut off the round end so the foam fits in a nice fold around the end. A small rubber band and you're done. After use toss it.
Spread it around and use a hair dryer on high to warm the epoxy and you'll find that it thins out nicely. Spread around and then keep the heat on it for a few extra seconds to ensure that it spreads and evens out. The warmth helps it soak further into the wood as well.
I used this trick a few times before I found by box 'o 500 acid brushes for $10 some years back. Now I use a brush and toss it afterwards but the foam brush worked great before that.
Spread it around and use a hair dryer on high to warm the epoxy and you'll find that it thins out nicely. Spread around and then keep the heat on it for a few extra seconds to ensure that it spreads and evens out. The warmth helps it soak further into the wood as well.
I used this trick a few times before I found by box 'o 500 acid brushes for $10 some years back. Now I use a brush and toss it afterwards but the foam brush worked great before that.
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RE: Painting Epoxy
Great ideas, thanks. I did not know home depot had those silver handle brush (what I've been buying) I am paying them a visit as soon as the sun rises (oh crap its flying day tomorrow). I may have to try that foam and popsicle trick as well.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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RE: Painting Epoxy
Flybug,
Walmart carries cheap brushes back in the craft dept.- about 10 or 15 for 1.00. Look for a plastic bag full in the area around the kids crafts.
Dale
Walmart carries cheap brushes back in the craft dept.- about 10 or 15 for 1.00. Look for a plastic bag full in the area around the kids crafts.
Dale
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RE: Painting Epoxy
Lately when I have been fuelproofing firewalls and stuff I have been adding a drop of pigment and it really looks nice and finished. A bottle of pigment lasts forever.
http://www.iasco-tesco.com/cat55/index.htm
See Page 75
http://www.iasco-tesco.com/cat55/index.htm
See Page 75
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RE: Painting Epoxy
Hi flybug, I used to build custom fishing rods and a common practice was just to have a medicine bottle half filled with metho (that's methylated spirit). Poke the brush handle through a hole in the cap and then screw the thing together for storage. You'll find that the the bristles will stay supple and just need a quick dap on a cloth before the next use. Specialty brushes were very expensive (expecially the camel hair variety) and bristle condition was critical for a good epoxy finish.
Since brush condition is far less important for model plane building, these days I just quirt metho and dap the brush out in a bottle cap before drying with a piece of tissue. The bristles will stiffen slightly, but, several planes and lots of repairs later, I'm still using the same brush I started with last year.
Since brush condition is far less important for model plane building, these days I just quirt metho and dap the brush out in a bottle cap before drying with a piece of tissue. The bristles will stiffen slightly, but, several planes and lots of repairs later, I'm still using the same brush I started with last year.