CAD_Flyer_321

Hi all. This is my first time posting to this site as a memmber. I have been reading many posts as a guest, but figured it was time to join and post whenever i can. I have been flying 1/2a CL for almost a year now, mainly a Sig Skyray that has been crash, repaired and modified many times. I want to get into some built up wing designs and something with a bit more manuverability and response. I have been trying lately to CAD up my own design but dont really know where to go as far as overall wing size and other dimensions. Any 1/2a plans or ideas anyone has would be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has some plans they want CAD'ed up let me know, i'll give it a shot.

Thanks

vauxhall

Here's a couple of links for you to check out, if your looking for design ideas.
http://www.the.elmores.btinternet.co.uk/telmore.html
http://my.pclink.com/~dfritzke/
If you email Dave Fritzke, he may perhaps have some more C/L plans available.
RCU have a C/L Forum too, try posting there for some plans.
An ideal C/L learner package, once you're past the crash and burn stage, is the SIG Akromaster kit with a .15 engine, cheap too. You will find that the larger models are smoother to fly and with the Akromaster you're building a model guaranteed to fly very well indeed.
There are many free C/L plans on the net, you've just got to find 'em.......John

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Dick Mathis and Dick Sarpolus both authored great beginner's guides to control line. Both books had plans included, too. The book by Sarpolus had more to do with 1/2A.
Might be worth a search.

The Sarpolus book is in the Flying Models library and sells for $8

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Welcome to you then! There is a great bunch of insane misfits on this forum that will goad you into many misadventures in your modelling career.

I'd start with a simple sport model using a bunch of straight lines. Why not base a model on the Sig Skyray? A nice built up wing will enhance performance a lot. If I mentally figger correctly, you'll want to start at about 90-100 squares for zippy flying, more area and increased moments for more lift, lighter wing loading and heading towards the smoother stunt regime of flying.

Do you have airfoil resources? If not lemme know via PM, I have Compufoil and can generate a .dxf of what you want in moments.

MJD

windy city

Hmmmm,
Wasn't there some Lil' Jumping Bean plans floating around awhile back?
That was one of the best 1/2a CL planes I ever had.
windy city

Andrew

Here's one from the Aeromaniacs Site.

andrew

CAD_Flyer_321

thanks for all the replies,  would a wing with some dihedral and a wider center than tips really affect a 049 CL plane?

DICKEYBIRD

The tapered wing would be fine butdihedral would give you fits. The rudder /thrustline offsetrequired to keep good line tensionwould cause yaw induced rolling. The roll would change with airspeed which would really be fun.

I've seen u/c scale models with dihedral but I'm betting it was retained for scale points only.

CAD_Flyer_321

ahh that makes sense, would make for some interesting flights

Jim Thomerson

You might ask Al Rabe about dihedrial in top of the line CL stunt airplanes.  Tapered wings bounce around in the wind less than similar rectangular wings.  I'm building a fairly close to scale Tipsey Junior for Old time Stunt.  I has a low wing with a little dihedrial, enough to get the leadout guide up to where it needs to be in relation to the vertical CG.  Friend has one finished and it flies nice. 

CAD_Flyer_321

i would love to see that if you have any pictures, just to get some ideas for my custom build

gcb

At least check out the site that Andrew posted. Heman Lee put in a lot of time designing these planes that almost guarantee success to new flyers.

You are past the "Osborne Platter" (a beginner's plane)stage, so the plane shown is built-up with excellent step-by-step instructions. If nothing else, it may give you some ideas.

Good luck.

George

CAD_Flyer_321

yea it definitely has given me some ideas, im in the process of designing one in Autodesk Inventor, will post some 3D images as i progress through the design to get some input  and suggestions.  And if any of you like it I will be happy to share the final plans.

CAD_Flyer_321

Ok so i designed a tenative wing tonight. 30" span, all 1/16" ribs, 2" taper. Let me know what you think.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Looks like a winner, start cutting some wood!
Be careful about hogging the ribs out too much. Nothing substantial will be gained weight wise and open frame designs like this tend to twist and warp easily enough as it is. I would only remove enough wood as is necessary to allow free movement of the lead outs.
The thick airfoil that you show will help build in some strength. Keep it as light as you can, 30 inches worth of wing can add up weightwise quickly every time you get a new idea to add something for strength.
Some of the most clever engineering for lightness and strength can be found with the ARF combat planes being sold by GRS Models. This is the guy who imports the Russian made 1/2A, .15 and .36 sized combat planes.

gcb

Be sure to use a scarf joint or add a gusset where the trailing edge goes from straight to taper.

George

CAD_Flyer_321

ok, how much weight can a 049 handle?

Jim Thomerson

That depends, My "Cheap Thrill", December 1998 Model Aviation, weighs in at 11 -12 oz with TD 049. It has a 36 in wing. I think with your wing your airplane should come out under10 oz. Less if you are running an engine less powerful than a TD 049. In your wing, I would suggest putting in a vertical cross piece, 1/8 x 1/16, between the spars at each rib. Particularly if you want to cut out a good bit in the center of the rib.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I used to fly TD .049 foamies that weighed 5 or 6 ozs at about 120 square inches for combat. These planes were required to fly with .012" x 35 foot lines. They could stall in over head flight if you weren't getting a perfect screaming run.
.008" lines would have helped for sport flying, but they aren't cheap and 1 little kink ruins them. Spiderline fishing tackle works and is 10 times more durable for flying lines. 30 pound works great for .15 powered planes, I'm not sure I remember what weight you could get away with for 1/2A, but I'll bet something like 15 pound is what works. I do remember trying it out with a Cyclon and having no problems. The ends of the lines are simply wrapped around brass eyelets a few times and tied off, no crimp sleeves needed.

CAD_Flyer_321

well hopefully this one wont be too heavy, but we'll see after i build it, if it is i guess ill just have to go bigger with the engine. but i have attached a picture of where she stands so far...
now i just need to find her a name
and one other thing, whats the best material to cover the wing with?

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I found 10 pound and 20 pound Spiderline at our local Spiderline emporium. The 10lb is a bit larger in dia than .008" steel to the eye but almost imperceeptibly so - and it is not really round in cross section when you look at it up close anyway. But it "measures" about .009" or so. The 20lb measures about .012", which with the crude measuring makes sense since one should be 1.414 times the other.

I measured off two 35 and two 42 foot line sets from the 20lb but have not flown it yet. I expect it to be a bit draggier than .008" steel obviously, far less draggy than dacron crap, and tough enough for many sport flying sessions. This is one of those rare cases where not being kinky is a positive personality trait.

The 10lb will take a bit more care, just like the .008" steel but I doubt anywhere near as much a PITA. It is a ***** to tie a knot in though - and slippery enough to untie itself through all the basic knots. I have good success in break tests by tying off 2-3 half hitches, then carefully melting the loose end in a clear little ball with radiant heat from a nearby Bic (not charred and infected looking).

MJD

CAD_Flyer_321

thanks for the info, ill have to go pick some up here soon, got all the wood today so im going to start building her up tomorrow

Andrew

Try using a Palomar knot on the Spiderline. Just substitute a ring or snap for the hook.