RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

That,looks like the way, to get your monies worth, for sure..I`m going to start purchasing like that,too..I think the best bet is to not "BUTCHER" the ribs to accommodate the spar, and I`ll wait, to get the right material,for the job..I really should not have just jumped in to this ,the way I did..Oh well,might as well do this ,as the plans state..

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Dave,
If you have a Balsa stripper you could cut the spars from any thicker sheet, if you havent 1 I sugest you think about getting/makeing 1 as they are very handy for scratch building.
Stewart

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

WELL I laminated 2pcs@ 1/16"sheet together, and I`m going to do a bit of "monkey business" .And the stripper I`ll make one tommorow..In the long RUN the Time it takes to make, will pay me back.I`m going to make one tommorow..D.B.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Make sure that those spars are nice and stiff. Square stock is usually a lot harder than sheet stock.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Andrew, I`ll run the glue joint verticle, and use the sheer webs.I know the GRAIN, is not as "tight" as the spars I bought,bit at least the pics will "SHOW"correct, even if we know different.. THE clock say`s I can take my weights off the Laminate..I`m going to go and have a peek..D.B.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

WEll,dosn`t look TOO bad,and only have to make 4 of them.I`ll make a striper tomorow,and find out,If this is going to work or if I made "JUNK" ..D.B.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

IT looks like it will ,do the job but would not be my 1`st recommendation to do.acouple pics will put up better tommorow when I start to CA things together .Just a "DRY fit " right now........D.B.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Page 3, post # 55..looks upside down to me, or is this correct?

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Its correct, see picture in post 84 page 4
Stewart

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

It still looks like the drawing above is UP-SIDE down ,to me according to this pic.. IT`s just that all the flat bottom wings I`ve built the flat is on the bottom and the bevel is on the top.But the picture is not as clear as I like,and I want to be perfectly clear on this.ANdrew an End, or Front view, would be helpful to clear any doubts.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

DB

Your drawing is correct -- the tip plate glues to the bottom of the outer rib. Your options are to bevel the ends of the top spars to the angle of the plate and let the plate butt against the spars or (as I usually do) cut the tip outline slightly oversize and notch the tip plate to allow the spars to pass thru and glue. I then use a sanding bar to contour the outer end of the tip plate to match the top rib outline, then sand the spars flush to the bottom of the plate. When covered, since the tip outline matches the ribs, it looks like just another rib and you won't have any wrinkles.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

You can build it either way. I've attached a picture showing both methods. Drawing A shows the style more typical to most trainers and drawing B shows the style that you're describing which is common on sport scale models. In the second style you'll need to cut triangular braces to support the tip. I think that the "bevel down" style is slightly easier to build, so if you prefer that way then go ahead. I can always ammend the plan if need be.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

THANKS GUY`s, I`ll GO trainer style then, BECAUSE that is, what it`s for..I`ll put some pics up in an hour or so..D.B.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Dozed off after supper ,but had 1 wing half built before I fell asleep.Goes together well ,if you`ve got everything, and the procedure set in your head. do the other half tommorow...D.B.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

A question for you guy`s on these ailerons using the C.A hinges.What would be correct ,for amount(pcs), and size,( "s x "s)per aileron??.I`m accustom to using the ROBART HINGES ,AND I JUST WANT TO GET this figured out before I get to that point .I`m going to put the wing halves together today yet

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

4 per aileron should be good. I personally prefer a covering hinge because it is strong, seals the gap and looks nice.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Yes that does look nice .Do you use a C.A hing under the covering,or is that done with covering alone.I think I would like to do the job that way.I BOUGHT, MONO-KOTE by the way....

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

I don't use CA hinges. On larger planes I'll hinge it with Robart or Dubro hinges before covering. On smaller ones I just use the covering or maybe a couple of floppy disk hinges to hold the aileron in place while I cover it.

Here's how I do it. Either hinge the aileron first or use some Scotch tape on one side to hold it in place. Using a single piece of covering start from the leading edge of the wing and work back until you reach the aileron and then lay the wing on the table so that the trailing edge is flush with the edge of the table and the aileron is protruding past the edge of the table. Flex the aileron down and iron the covering into the hinge line. Flex the aileron back into the normal position and cover it. Flip the wing over, remove the tape and repeat for the top side.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Your method sounds much easier than the;cover all the parts, slot for CA hinges.GAP and CA, AILERONS to WING,etc. TRY not to glue everthing together, and end up with solid flying surfaces,method.I`m going to go your route with this ,and take the photo`s ,.along the way. THANKS for that tip..Not sure how far I`ll go today..I`ll see,maybe EPOXY the halves together and leave it over-night..HAVE a good evening DAVE B..

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Covering hinges are easier once you've done it a few times. You might want to practise on some scrap balsa first to get the hang of it.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

I few pictures.in no order .Didn`t go as far as wanted ..Today`s a new day..

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

I`ve got a question, for whoever would like to answer,please..I`ve got the Du-BRO aileron horn wire with bearings.I`m thinking I should put a block in front ,of the trailing edge. of the wing,so that the epoxy will have a little extra surface to grip.I apologize for my drawing I don`t have a cad program,so I`m using a photo, and microsoft paint, on it.It shows where I would like to put the extra block.THAT pic. also shows where the 1/16" shear webs are,and where I would like to put, 1/32" sheet for the remaining shear webs.I only have enough 1/16" sheet to do the other wing in the same manner.I have quite a bit of 1/32" sheet in my inventory.THE next picture shows the bearing tab its length is 1/2".........So should I, or SHOULDN`T I, do these little things ??? ... THANKS D.B.


P.S. I`ve got other minor questions thru out the day to..Is there a site, that several good pics of this trainer.already built? I want to use them, to electronic paint a color scheme,for a visual,preferably straight on shots, of ,top ,bottom, and side/s THanks AGAIN

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Yes, what you've drawn is correct except you don't need shear webs on the trailing edge sheeting, just between the spars. Also, you should add a rib to the innermost tip of each panel so that when they are connected you will have something to glue the sheeting to.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Here is a drawing that you can use to try out colour schemes.

[link=http://www.donatelli.net/lst-multi-view.gif]Right Click Here[/link] and save as to download a high resolution copy.

RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
 

Andrew would you check if i`m understanding correctly now.This drawing is getting worse sorry