Mark Bartley

I finally pulled the trigger on an EVO-735 this year.
My buddy and I bought two, and we're doing up a pair of "Canada 150" GP 120 size Super Stearmans, and we're going to try aerobatics together.

I have read this entire thread and believe that I've absorbed some of it!
Anyhow, I'm ready to start the break in and just wanted to call out for any last minute pointers or advice.

So Far I've:
1- Removed glow plugs
2- Added after run oil to the new engine, and lubed the valve train;
3- Turned engine over to distribute oil and loosen up;
4- Mounted engine on Test Stand;
5- Used All Large fuel lines and Filter;
6- Spun with electric starter to clear out excess oil (plugs still removed);
7- Checked valve lash as per Maxam's write up;
8- Installed short piece of black heat shrink on push rod ends, and shrank with 1/16" overhang, to prevent rods from falling out;
9- Removed Choke assy. Will prime through blowing into vent line;
10- Installed an air filter on the carb. I have done this to other glow engines. Tends to limit top end by 100 RPM, but the carb draws fuel and transitions better. Maybe this has the same effect as Maxam's suggestion of running 1/2 to 3/4 carb opening to change the choke area?
11- Tapped inside of collector ring exhaust nipple, for 2-56, and plugged off with short 2-56 pan head screw; and
12- Fuel is 15% Cool Power with Castor (4oz) and Methanol (120 oz) added.
Break in Mixture is:
1.6% Castor (Sig);
8.6% Synthetic;
7.6% Nitro; and
82.2% Methanol.
13- Break in prop is 17x8 Xoar
14- Re-install Glow Plugs!!

There was a previous post on easily delivering after run oil to the engine's innards. I do like the idea of a vent tube, aka a traditional blow by lubed 4 stroke. But I don't like the idea (warranty) of tapping holes in the serial numbered back plate of my new 735.
Turns out that the seven 3mm x 8mm back plate bolts are not into blind holes; yes they are drilled clear through to the crankcase!
So here's what I'm planning:
a- Remove the back plate screws behind Clyinders 1 & 4;
b- Replace the back plate screws behind Clyinders 1 & 4 with 3mm x 8mm pressure nipples; and
c- Bring a line from each nipple and connect them together outside the cowl.

Now you can pump fogging oil in the bottom until it flows out the top and leave the lines disconnected during storage.
If the plane is stored on it's wheels, the bottom nipple will allow the crankcase to drain and, you could do the aquarium pump thing via the top nipple.

Thanks Maxam and all contributors for a fantastic resource.
I wouldn't have made the leap without knowing that your thread is here to support us newbies.

L8R,
Mark