Crashis Clay

My Feedback: (2)

if you guys are looking for a plane that flies awesome and has an almost indestructible motor mount designed around the AXI 2212-26 you should take a look at the Adrenaline from abellrc.com

see the review at

http://www.abellrc.com/Reviews/Adrenaline%20review.htm

rcflyerrc

never coated anything with epoxy. If you cut the opening so that the prop adaptor just clears the front of the fuse with the prop on the motor, you will have to cut the "S" torque mount ply so that the firewall can be glued to the fuse. Since the torque mount is glued into the fuse, and is now glued directly to the back of the 1/16 ply with epoxy, there is no need to coat any of the foam or firewall with epoxy. Basically, as I see it, you are now forming a one piece firewall/torque mount just as if you mounted a GWS gearbox onto the torque mount itself. However, you are now adding additional strength where the firewall also glues to the foam on the fuse below the torque mount and onto the side braces.

Even without the torque mount, just gluing the firewall directly to the fuse and side pieces will give adequate strength. However, just for the piece of mind, my SU-26 came in at 13 1/8 oz rtf, with a 3 cell 1320 battery, and if all the power formulas are right, I still have slightly over 2-1 thrust to weight ratio with the AXI and a 10 x 4.7 or 11 x 4.7 APC prop. That was using the "S" torque mount ply piece in the fuse glued to the back of the firewall.

RCS

8KCABrett

My Feedback: (1)

I&C, No I don't, that was don on both of mine and you can see that this wasn't enough. . . not only that but I also patched the front of the mount with another piece of ply. . . the screw holes are a weak point that really just needs to be eliminated. If I had it to do over again (which I really wish I did) I would use a backplate mount, or better yet, one of those AXI stick mount conversion things to use the "Torqued" motor mount of the 3DF aircraft.

8KCABrett

My Feedback: (1)

rcflyerrc,

do you have pics of what you did?

In my installation I don't think any mounting setup that used the ply front mounted firewall would have been sufficient in and of itself to stop what happened to me from happening again. The torque of the motor and gyroscopic forces of the prop arc simply caused the mount to fold in on itself, the places where the foam joiend teh ply mount were all perfectly fine, the weak spot was the mount itself.

rcflyerrc

Here are the pix of my SU-26.

[img][/img]

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Brett....

The AXi mount is supposed to be 2 lams thick... thats why there is 2 in the bag....

With that made.... I'm done with AXI motors.... I've gone to the Hacker A20-20L for all my personal stuff. They come with the back plate mount that ties directly into the Torqued motor mount, also has more power, spair parts, and is less $....

8KCABrett

My Feedback: (1)

Oh man. . that explains it!!!! [:@]

I thought that was for the second kit!

[&:]

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

I'm gonna have to send you another airplane now...

That one looked so awesome too!

Are you gonna want another raven or shall you try something new? I've got the CAP232 with the Full Mike Goulian Castrol Decal set... and thats the new one not released yet... I could let you check it out ahead of time.

wildthing7037

Just posting a pic of my turbo raven. Very happy with the way it goes on the 2208, heaps of fun to fly.

Stefan

buenger_2000

I have a question maybe someone can answer or maybe all of you fellows will put something into this...I've had a couple foamies and just ordered the yak from allerc.com (good place!!!) I've mounted the rudder and elevator servo just aft the main wing on the fuselage flat....but have seen some mounted on the wings and some mounted midsection the tail... My question....which is the best set up????

thanks in advance


mounting on the wings on the side with built up foam seems the best idea i've seen

8KCABrett

My Feedback: (1)

Well,

Heck Levi that's nice of you given that I guess it was mostly my error that caused the loss of the Raven. It looks like my ESC was damaged when the motor spun it out of the plane (should have used less hot glue I guess so it could break away easier) so maybe my next one should be a CC25 so I can run one of those hackers when I have the money to spend on RC again. I guess I could build another kit up to keep me motivated! That cap sounds cool! I couldn't refuse that offer! And decals. . .that's the way to go from now on. . .no more month long paint jobs for me!

8KCABrett

My Feedback: (1)

buenger_2000

I don't know that plane, but generally the shorter the control rods the better, you want a more or less square linkage alignment so keep that in mind when placing the servos too, the way planes like the shocflyer mount their servos is for balance, if you move the servos of the tail towards the tail you may need to move the battery forward towards the nose to make it all balance up, that's no big deal but keep in mind that the CG needs to be in the right spot no matter where you move stuff. . . and there are some advantages to keeping most of the mass near the center of gravity. . . so really from an aerodynamic perspective it's up to the individual design intent to dictate where the servos should go and how much mass is OK in the nose and tail. If you mount the servos farther forward that's probably fine, but you may need to make some pushrod guides (people are using old credite cards to do this).

I & C Tech

Both mounts are to be used at once? Wow I'm glad I found that out up front. Cool.

I & C Tech

Here's my progress so far. 12 hour days lately has made it hard for me to find time to get much done with it. I still need to mask off and paint the canopy area then proceed with assembly.

psk560

My Feedback: (12)

WOW! Awesome looking bird you got there I&C. What you going to power it with?

Craig

buenger_2000

here's a question....would it be a good idea to run cover the foam flat sides on everything with clear tape....to add strength??? Insane foamies uses scotch tape for the hinges.....is this good....or sould I run clear tape along the edge after using the scotch tape.... Ialso have some dubro micro pinned hinges...could I use these???

thanks

I & C Tech

Thanks Craig! Powertrain will be an Axi 2212-34, CC Phoenix 10, and 3 cell Li-Po's. It's also getting dressed up with some of Levi's Red Bull decals.

buenger 2000, I'm not sure what to say about the strength thing. As for the hinges, I'm going CA.

Any sharp eyes out there would notice I've assembled my stab and elevators before installation in the fuse. I felt like glueing the elevators to the coupling rod could be done best without interference from the stab. So I laid them out flat and epoxied it all together with the little wooden guide just dangling in the middle. Then CA hinged the halves to the stab. The rudder isn't hinged yet. So I plan to cut out the back of the fuse and slide the whole assembly in place and glue it in. Then I can place the piece cut from the fuse back in without sacrificing any strength. I hope. This is my first foamy so we'll see how that goes. Ailerons aren't hinged yet. I'm not gonna hack up the front of the fuse too.

8KCABrett

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good I&C. . .any updated news on the SU?

I bought a new ESC to replace my damaged one from the Raven and I just ordered a top creations stick mount for my AXI (which hopefully is OK), it looks like it will fit the stick mounts that the 3DF planes incorporate. . . of course Levi might be changing the mounting setup on his new designs, I will have to wait and see!

I picked up the one that is listed as fitting both the HAcker A20 and the AXI 2212 series. . .it looks like a sturdy and simple mounting method that doesn't require me to buy a bandsaw or add a bunch of epoxy to the plane!

The mounts can be foudn here: http://www.topcreationsrc.com/catalo...unts/index.htm

ben flyn

WOW! Just read most of this thread. The most amazing thing here is Levi. Yep! We get to have a discussion with an owner of a business that is one of us, that deeply cares, enjoys flying foamys like WE do, AND.... we don't have to go thru levels of people (like tower and others) just to talk to someone who cares! I hope none of us forgets how nice this truely is.

Levi,
Will you be in Toledo? I would really like to shake your hand and meet you!

Sorry to get off the subject.

I & C Tech

Brett,

I was waiting until every detail was complete, but here's a pic of it so far. It's flying and flying well. I still have a few decals to apply and need to replace the LG after a pancake landing caused by an unexpected premature battery crap-out. That won't happen with my new 1500 Polyquests. A solid twenty minutes per pack! I had some of Levi's LG and they were nice. I'm sure the pancake would probably bust up any of them. I'm gonna try some of the ones from NE Sailplanes though. But I have to make up a tail skid of my own. That snapped too. It's flying a little tailheavy but I'm waiting until the LG is replaced to move the battery any further forward.

I & C Tech

One other update. Before I got the Polyquest batteries, I was having to limit my current (by lowering my endpoint) to 6 amps to stop my battery from pooping on me. I had a less than perfect landing at the field one day and kinda sat it down tail first. This was enough to strip the gears on my tail servo! Bluebird 371. I robbed a Hitec 81 from another plane and trimmed just a wee bit to make it fit. Now I have a "high torque parkflyer tail servo"! It is a tiny bit heavier than the 371 but it's all good. The geometry on my rudder linkage is less than what I'd consider ideal. Is this done right? The elevator linkage was right on but the rudder has some crappy angles to it.

I & C Tech

Note to self. Next time I won't use blue RadioSouth hinges. You can see them through the Depron.

8KCABrett

My Feedback: (1)

Hmm. . .

On the Raven there was a cutout just in front of the horizontal stab that gave good geometry to the elevator horn, and below the stab there is one that works well for the rudder. It looks like you did that, but I agree that the linkage looks a bit extreme on the SU perhaps you could move the servo up a little if you really need that long horn position on there, or maybe just use a shorter horn. I used the shorter horn positions since I got full surface travel (till the rudder touched the elevator halves) anyway and wanted the minimal strain on the servo. Here is what mine looked like. (after I moved my tail groub back and had to do some patch work).

Oh and you can see the white hinges through the depron too. . . once mine was painted I didn't notice it, but before yeah. I actually often saw the raven scheme on the bottom of mine. . . in some of the night videos it looks like it might be inverted! That stuff is remarkably transparent!