Monroe

I have read some posts concerning the Great Planes Ultimate Bipe EP having problems with the horizontal and vertical stabilizers breaking off while in flight doing 3D maneuvers.

I am putting one together and do not want to suffer the same fate.

Has anyone any experience with flying wire kits like from Sullivan? Are the components light enough to add to the tail surfaces of an electric?

Has anyone constructed their own flying wires? I thought of using small electrical connectors, heavy duty mono fishing line and epoxy to attach the lines into the connectors. Placement of the connectors to the surfaces would be similar to the placement on the 1/4 scale gas Ultimate I also have that had flying wires as standard equipment.

Any suggestions/thoughts would be appreciated.

Valve floater

I just put the Sullivan kit on my 83` Duster. It was easy. You get steel wire and string kevlar in the kit. I used the kevlar, you can`t see it as much, and it is a lot[:@] easier to work with. I just put a little slack on them,because in flight they will pull tight when the stress is put on them. If you put everything too tight in the triangle you may warp your tail. Use thin CA to strengthen up the wood where you drill the holes to add more support before you put the screws that go thru the surfaces. The kevlar has 100lb test so it won`t break. I ran my fingers on them with clear sealer to fuel proof the strings.

Monroe

Thank you for the feedback "Valve Floater" !

How much total weight would you estimaet you added with your installation? I did not know what kind of connectors are used in the Sullivan kit and if they are light weight material?

Valve floater

Very light with the string. Not worth worrying about. I will try to send you some pictures this weekend of the tail. If you use weed eater line or fishing string, you will be constantly adjusting tension because off stretch.

Monroe

Thanks for the reply, I never thought about stretch.

This is why these forums are so valuable. I have learned so much information about this hobby by reading advice and mistakes of others.

I had a contact with Sullivan about their kits and they emailed the instructions to me that showed the components that come with their kit.
(see attached file)

Thanks again, looking forward to pictures when available.

Valve floater

Monroe, here are those pic`s.

Valve floater

More Pic`s for tail wires. Sullivan tail bracing kit using kevlar string.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Just buy some 1/16 carbon fibre rod and cut the braces.I bet just bracing on top or the bottom will be plenty.Use a small amount of epoxy in the (created) notch the rod rests on, and its done.

Monroe

Valve floater, nice looking duster ! Thanks for the pix ! I have ordered a Sullivan kit. Let you know how the installation goes.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Really? That seems overkill and overweight for that little bipe.I'd put the rods on,less than 5 minutes and you're flying.
Many electrics use that method.

Monroe

Nitro Wing, describe how (or post pictures) you attach the rods to the surfaces. Sounds good, light weight, but what grooves do you mean that you use the epoxy on?

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

I'll get some picks up later tonite
I used a foamy for an example.Just cut the rod to size and find a suitable spot to rest them on.Make a notch with a drill bit or hobby knife.I like to use epoxy to hold them in place.Make sure everything is square.
I think many people weaken the stabs when they cut away the covering for the glue joint (when gluing stab to fuse),
especially on the little electrics.Use a soldering iron to burn through the covering.It works very well ,without cutting any grain.

Valve floater

That is a great idea for a foamie. I bet my hot glue gun on low setting would be good. If you hit hard, will the stick poke up thru the surface. make the two rods meet then glue them. For larger planes such as my 8 foot wingspan duster i would rather have something that gives and takes, not a solid joint. but for small planes it would work. I have plenty of rods from crashed planes. Thanks

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

The kit you used on the cropduster is a nicer more scale set up for sure,and it is functional.
The Ultimate he is talking about is small about 36 inches span or so,it is made of wood though.The rods will work fine for that.

Monroe

Thanks for the great pictures. I understand now how you attached the rods. I think Valve Floater is right about making the ends meet to avoid impact causing them to poke through.

For my Ultimate Bipe EP, I am now thinking about using small bolt type electrical connectors, open the connector end enough to accept the rod, bend them to the proper angle, paint them black, then bolt through the surfaces with the connectors aligned on both sides. I could then mount the rods to them with epoxy so there would be no adjustment needed to maintain the stabilizers in a square relationship to the fuselage.

What do you think? I will add the Sullivan kit I ordered to my inventory of things I might need in the future......

Thanks for the help!

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Check your CG first ,before adding things to the tail,just a few grams may get the CG in trouble.Good luck.
I think the rods do meet on the foamy.I have them on my Funtana X100 (stock),just on the bottom though.If I have to worry about the rods going thru ,I have probably had a bad crash and have bigger issues to worry about

Monroe

Nitro Wing,

You are right, CG issues are incredibly important. That is why my original concern was the weight of the tail wire system. I don't necessarily want additional weight on an electric, just want to add some strength to the tail surfaces. I do use a soldering iron to remove covering for glue, but even so there is more (easy) flex in this model's stabilizers than I feel comfortable with. I think the overall weight of the carbon fiber rods will not be hard to overcome with a small change forward with the battery placement. I have experimented in the past with moving CG rearward to increase ease of 3D, and tail heavy is a quick way to get white hair, so I do pay particular attention to CG !!

I fly RC fuel planes at a local club field and love it. I fly electric in my back yard (because of fussy neighbors) and love that as well. I also do a little soaring with my oldest son. Never understood that there should be such a conflict between the different types of flight/flyers.........it is ALL good !

Thanks again for your input !

kaosindayton

Highest stress induced to stab is during sudden stop in landing flips.

If we are landing in grass, we need to watch for damage to stabs.

(Most 40 size trainers get triangle stock, although they are much heavier, added to avoid repeated stab breaks)

These are balsa wood airframes, NOT FOAMIES, they are "fragile".

Thread strut idea would be good insurance / safety improvement. ie. thread break=stressed member.

I will be purchasing a Yak 54 3D soon and may include this upgrade.

Loosing an airplane and a possible modeler, hurts us all....

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Balsa or foamy,the carbon struts work the same.
Many own the H 9 Funtana X100.A much much bigger aircraft.
It has carbon struts exactly as mentioned,they work,without them the stab would flex and bind and quite possibly fracture.