nauticom

I have the GSP Corsair 75.5 ARF kit. For future needs such as different cowling, general touchup, does anyone know what are the matching Blue and Gray paints from a typical hobby manufacturer so I might purchase some.
GSP has told me that the paint is a generic polyeurathane.
Thanks for your help
nauticom

Loopman

My Feedback: (195)

The best way to get a good color match is to take a piece of the cloth ( usually from the stab cut out) to Home Depot or Lowe's and they can match it exactly on their color machine.

This is a great looking kit but please, please be aware that you can not leave this plane in the sun unprotected or you will suffer the same horrible fate that several others have encountered ( yours truly included). The fibreglass sections will distort!

Additionally there is no spar in the gull wing! Just very thin far eastern ply! It will not hold up even to a number of regular landings! Trust me I know! If you encounter any of these problems please try to deal with someone other than Irwin Siner. He is the owner of GSP and will not stand behind the product, at least he didn't stand behind mine! Just FYI!

Happy Flying!

LOOPMAN

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

As above take the wing to a paint store. My brother in law owns a paint store and I took the wing in and after quite a while of fine tuning the paint we got an acceptable match with an ultra deep tint base. we used flat oil house paint. It matches pretty close for small touch ups. Ive got about 20 flights on mine now and some of them were noseovers, no problems with spar problems yet. (knock wood) I did reinforce the spar a bit (1/8" ply along and underneath)at the retract locations because I had to grind in to it a bit to have clearance for the retracts. maybe that helps

nauticom

Thanks for the info. I have kind of followed the thread on this kit and am going to make a number of beef up's as suggested, i.e. fiberglass stiffing in fus, etc. Sense I'm installing a Saito 170R3 radial in this thing, I will be heaver by 1#, ie, around 13 #. I am very concerned about landing gear area strength of gull and gear mounting area. Should I peel back the fiberglass skin on the gull bottom and do re-enforcing now before I develop problems latter?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
BobM
[email protected]

Loopman

My Feedback: (195)

The wing spar is not the same as what you see in the landing gear area! There is a single, less than 1/8th of an inch "spar"in the bent wing section. It will fail! If I had to do it all over again and knew this, I'd peel the fibreglass back and add additional reinforcement! Good Luck!

Happy Flying!

LOOPMAN

bbflyer

I have a thought for all the gsp corsair owners out there. The lack of a real spar is a joke and after I heard mine "pop" on a descent landing and found it broken I thought of giving up on her. Well I decided to get off my lazy butt and fix it and when doing so saw that the original spar is bowed and twisted so I couldnt just lay a single piece of wood in there. I opted to lay in a couple more pieces of crap wood so it would conform to the original odd bends and when the epoxy cures hopefully hold that shape without warping the wing. Anyway I think the fiberglass sagging on the wing is mainly caused from the fiberglass and not the spar supporting the plane when it is just sitting on the ground. Basically as soon as it gets soft at all it develops sag spots untill the point that the spar takes over. Yes the glass is thin but I think a spar that is of proper strength and is supporting the weight would maybe prevent the sag problem. Oh well mine is flying good again but will bend the 615 retracts on even good landings some. I think I'll go ahead and get the robostruts and maybe things will work better with retract maintanance only needing to be done every 10 flights instead of every other flight, HOPEFULLY I added to the spars by cutting out a 3/8" channel right in front of the existing spar on the bottom of the wing and also cutting out the bottom of the forward ribs. laid 2 more spars of the same material as stock in there with epoxy then joined them in the middle with an overlaping piece of ply. I reatached the ribs with angle balsa to the front of the new spar and then to seal it all back up I cheated and ca'd real thin ply over the cutout openings. I was going to reglass it but that process can be rather messy with strands of stray fiberglass cloth soaked in epoxy finding there way all over the place.

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

retract maintenance every 10 flights, you lucky dog. I average every 3 or 4 flights. If you dont nail the landing the scissior hinge loves to bend on the 615 even with the robostuts. Someone should make some rotating retracts for planes above 10 lbs and less than 20. but as far as I know they dont exist

bbflyer

NO KIDDING! If they just made the scissor part just a tad beefier and made the wire one size bigger things would be much better. I only bent the scissor part one time when the gear that rotates the retracts jumped a tooth and turned the wheel sideways, not pretty! I had another brain storm today that I may try. If im correct, when you use a robostrut you wind up with only needing about 2" of wire or so. In rc cars we use titanium rods for stearing and such and thought that if I can find 3/16 titanium shaft used in conjuction with the robostruts bending would be eliminated. I just wonder if it would snap though, that would not be good. I know a guy who will have some incite to this so I'll run it by him. Anyway they could make these retracts bullet proof without adding much weight to them overall I would think.

bbflyer

hey do you think the struts help things out at all or are they just "show"? Im thinking that they cant hurt but who knows. Also the scissor part you refer to is that the part down by the wheel on the strut ,or the hinge,locking device for the down position on the retract that you are talking of.

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

I do think the robostruts help to keep the wheel/wire from turning the tooth gear (they soften the impact) But they dont help at all if you have a one wheel bouncy (carrier landing I like to call it) type of landind that puts side forces on the strut, that's when they allways bend on mine. I've pretty much decided to quit using flaps to land, they arent needed and they slow the plane down too much IMO