Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Trying to get all my electronics together for this build. I know a higher torque servo will be needed for this kit, what are some good choices? I was looking at the HT 645s, HT 5645s or the JR 126. Thanks for any info.

proteus_X3

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Hoghead385,

I have my Giant Stik sitting in the box,with a DLE-35RA engine, a spektrum AR 7000 RX and Power HD-120MG servo's.The servo's cost $15.99 each or 5 for $69.99,I didn't want to send a lot of money on servo's and they have more power than HS5645's.Good luck with your build!

Cheers: Rich

http://redwingrc.com/accessories/120...-hd-1201mg.htm

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

I have Dymond 5000's in mine except the throttle which is a Futaba 3002. The Dymonds are rated at 125 oz., metal gears and standard size, all for $15.00 each. My plane has a 40 cc gas engine and these servos have worked well thus far. Be sure to upgrade the hinges as mentioned thru the various postings.
Good luck, nice plane.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Rich and Gizmo, thanks for the info! Question Rich, when/where did you purchase your DLA-35RA? I've had one on back order through Tower for several weeks now.

proteus_X3

My Feedback: (16)

Hoghead385,

I got my engine at Valleyview RC, I highly recommend them, great service all around from start too finish,they have the DLE-35RA in stock now.
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/d...as-engine.html

I also got a DLE Single Bolt Prop Adapter (DLE-30), what can I say other than I'm lazy and don't want to drill 4 holes in my propeller
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/d...er-dle-30.html

Cheers: Rich

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Rich, thanks again! Just ordered the DLE 35 & single bolt prop adaptor for the Giant Ugly, nice folks at Valleyview RC. Now let the build begin.

Doug

proteus_X3

My Feedback: (16)

Doug,
No problem buddy,ValleyviewRC is my go to place for DLE engines my second choice is Redwing RC both are family owned and operated and both support RCU ,supper  people too deal all around,Tammy at Valleyview rc is a very pleasant lady. Good luck on your build,I willn't get to mine Ugly Stik until I finish my Phoenix 540 Edge build. Cheers: Rich

opjose

Great combo isn't it?

I moved my fuel tank back so it has no affect on the C.G. then put a 3800 mAh flight pack behind the firewall along with a 2200mAh ignition pack.
IMHO the C.G. came out perfectly.

A few mods and the Ein_Stick was born...

proteus_X3

My Feedback: (16)

SWEET! i LIKE IT![8D] put a strut behind the pilot and some thin wire and she will look like an WW I Elder....Cheers:Rich

opjose

I was thinking of doing just that, but I ended up not doing so because I left the wings separate, in case I would have to replace one.

If I could come up with a quick connect/disconnect mechanism I would revisit this idea.

-

The funny thing is equipped like this, it is a bit difficult to fly it like a real "Stik".

It hovers and torque rolls beautifully, but it's weird to see a pseudo Elder hovering. "It ain't right!".... heh.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

opjose, I really like the cowl and thought about adding one to my GUS. Where did you purchase it or is it a custom addition? Thanks Doug

opjose

That is a fiberglass specialties cowl and cheeks. They sell it specifically for the Giant Big Stik.

Both come in a rather "raw" form, though they are easy to work with.

You have to cut out the unused area of the cowl, and trim the cheeks.

Then sand down and prime both, paint and seal. Not a biggie.

You also have to fabricate a mount for the cowl. I made a hard wood ring that is affixed to the firewall with epoxy and screws.
The cowl mounts to the ring.

For the cheeks I removed some of the covering on the side of the Stik fuselage and epoxied the cheeks in place to both there and the back of the ring.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the info opjose, sound like some work but really adds to the finished look of the Stik. May have to give it a try.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Well I just finished Stick #3 for me after the last one was lost in the mid-air a while back. This one I went with the trusty DLE30 again but moved the rudder servo into the area under the wing to remove some weight off of the tail, I also have gone to an Ultra IBEC to remove one battery. All up weight came in at 13 lb 5 oz. That is 11 oz less than my last one and over a pound less than the one I had with a DLE55. I will post up some pics of my changes when I get a chance.

Brian Smith

My Feedback: (117)

I just ordered my 4th big stick. $299 and free shipping from Tower. Got the super saver club discount of $60.. What a switch from the $75 shipping I paid for the last one. Nice deal I'd say..Brian

sgrady

My Feedback: (5)

Built Mine as a trike, with a DLE 30, still had to put 15 oz in nose., put Ignition on the Hatch cover, had to beef it a little. That way it gets air.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

By moving my rudder servo forward I only needed 10 oz.

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Any of you guys consider longer standoffs for the dle 30 to get the weight more forward?

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I did that too. I used DLE55 standoffs.

sgrady

My Feedback: (5)

I thought about it,  thus i made the weight removable, the prop is a ways out there now though.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Here are some pics I just took before I put the lead inside the nose behind the firewall. Disregard the pushrod connector on the rudder, it is only temporary as I am using a different type that just arrived in the mail. I don't trust the metal Great Planes ones as I have had them break in the past. Still need to clean up the wires a bit as well.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Here are two more pics. The final all up dry weight is 13 lb 4 oz. If I ever build another I will move the elevator servo up into the tray with the other servos as well which will cut down the amount of nose weight required even more.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Super08, I see you're running a 3-line setup for your fuel tank. I'm new to the gas game and have a question about the 3rd line. One to carb, one for fill and one for outside vent? Where/how do you run the vent out? Thanks

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Gas engines have a fuel pump built into the carb so there is no need for pressure to the fuel tank. The pump will draw fuel about 3' straight up. The vent line loops around the top of the tank to prevent leakage when the nose is pointed down. Then it is vented out the bottom of the fuselage which prevents it from leaking when inverted. Plus it is nice to have the overflow go out the bottom when filling the tank.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Appreciate the info Super08, do you cap the vent line when the model is stored?