underh2o2long

No, you don't have too... its a vent line. When you remove the gas at the end of the day the fuel will be sucked back in so there should not be any leaking or dripping.....

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

No I don't mine are all stored out in the garage. I also store mine with the tanks at least 1/2 full. It depends on your situation. I have a friend that stores his in the house so he drains the tanks dry but does not cap the vent.

sgrady

My Feedback: (5)

Ileave fuel in mine all winter. I was told it keeps the tank lines from "drying out" The fuel Iuse does not have ethanol though, if you do<Iwould not leave the fuel in there.

mnourse26

Hey guys glad to see this fourm is doing good. So i have been flying my gus for a while now it has the 55 dle on it and having a blast. But i have noticed that it does shake the plane like crazy! I was thinking about replacing it with a twin 40cc rcgf and using the 55cc for somthing eles. heard the twins have lower vibration. Is that true? I will finish the year on the 55 just wondering what your thoughts were. Thanks

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Yes the twins less vibration. You can also run tail brace wires to stop the tail from shaking so much. The 55 is bordering on too much power albeit fun, I had one set up with a 55 last year. I went back to the DLE30 as I find it flys better with a bit less weight and it has much more prop clearance.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for all the replies folks. Super08, like the Williams Bros tires on you GUS, what size are they? Really set the plane off.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

They are the Dubro version. 4.66".
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPJZ2&P=7

opjose

If you want an even better look try these instead: [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLX7&P=ML]Click me![/link]

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Wow opjose, now those are cool too! Decisions, decisions?

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

I have Dubro 5" Tundras on mine, they also help prop clearance. They work very well on grass and uneven ground.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Just checking in and updating my progress on the GUS. Wings, tail surfaces, main gear, engine (DLE 35) mounting complete. Need to mount tank, ignition box/battery along with receiver battery and button up the internals. Waiting delivery of spinner and props so I can do my first CG check and see where I'm at. Bird went together pretty easily but the covering was a nightmare. I spent a great deal of time shrinking and trying to iron things down the best I could. Hope to get it in the air before the weather craps out, we'll see!

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

The covering on my latest one was so bad I gave up and recovered the stab and elevator.

opjose

I find that having both an iron and a heat gun helps with ARFs.

Often trying to use an iron alone can be frustrating.

I'll go over seam and edge points with an iron, then use the heat gun to get rid of bubbles and tighten up the covering.

This worked very well with my Big Stik.

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

I used an iron and gun also but it's a 20 footer! Must have been covered on a Monday? Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Hoghead385

My Feedback: (1)

Did my initial CG check while I had the GUS assembled with all the batteries/ignitiion gear in the nose behind the firewall. I'm using the aft position under the wing leading edge for my tank location. I'm happy at this point, will need about 6 ounces to bring it to the 5 7/8 - 6" location suggested in the manual. I'm using the DLE 35 with stock stand-offs/muffler and Tru-turn big bird spinner.

TunnelBill

My Feedback: (58)

I'm on a budget and was looking for ideas on what servos to get? Open to any ideas. Thanks Bill

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Hi Bill,

I have been using Dymond 5000 servos, metal gear, BB, 125 oz. and at $15.00 ea. these standard size servos have worked well for me on several projects. My GUS has a 40 cc and the servos have worked for my style of flying which is
not really severe but putting the plane thru it's paces.

TunnelBill

My Feedback: (58)

This thread is slow....

I am building one, I was going to try the RCG 26cc motor I have. I know it is a low power motor but just looking for a sport plane. What do you guys think about the motor, will it work?

Thanks
Bill

opjose

You should be just fine.

Prop the plane for maximum thrust, not speed.

The Stik is not a pylon racer anyway...

If you keep the plane light you'll even be able to hover it at altitude.

Your biggest problem will be getting the C.G. right ( note the manual has it a bit further forward than what I fly it at... )


I suggest putting your packs, choke and throttle servos, and ignition module in the provided compartment, just aft of the firewall.


I put my tank on the spar ( there are two tank mounting locations in the plane ) as this prevents fuel levels from affecting flight characteristics.

I went with a 30cc Syssa engine as I knew I was going to target the heavier side ( big batteries ).

TunnelBill

My Feedback: (58)

I plan on mounting everything forward. I was going to move my Elev & Rud servos forward in the plane and run Carbon Fiber push rods back to them. I do not like the tail wheel so I ordered a carbon fiber tail wheel and will run pull-pull cables to the tail wheel. I'm going to use robart 1/8 hing points on everything. Do you have to use epoxy on the hinge points or is it OK to use white glue or Tite bond II wood glue?

Thanks,
Bill

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Be a bit careful about robart hinge pointsmuch of the internal support isn't there. If you are not intending on opening up the covering and adding blocks of wood (I didn't) then I would suggest using epoxy and squirt enough extra in there to form sort of a bulb at the end of the hinge point so that it for sure would not come out.

That's what I did and it seems to be holding up well for the year I have flown the plane.

I happen to like the servos in the rear, your choice.

If I had it to do over though, I would extend the engine out a bit further to help with balance. I am using a DLE 30 which is pretty light and had to add over a pound of lead up front to balance.

I think moving the engine out perhaps a half inch or so would help trmendously.

Larry

SCOTT42

My Feedback: (1)

Hello all, I have this plane and just now getting started on putting it together, now im at a loss on what to do about the powerplant for this plane. I have a new OS 1.60 with a pitts bison muffler, also have a zenoah G-45 gas engine and not sure which to use. Now in all reallity I want to use the gas engine but not sure if it weighs too much for it. I really cant afford to just go out and buy a new DLE for it like most of you guys are running on yours, so whats the best choice for what I have to work with? My style of flying is balls to the wall when I can.

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

I think the 45 is a heck of a lot of engine for this planebut I don't think it will be too heavy.

It flys great with a 30 cc.

opjose

I had the both the Syssa 30cc and the Zenoah G-45 available when I was putting mine together.

I went with the 30cc.

The Zenoah is a relatively heavy engine and it is larger than the fuselage.

A 26cc is closer to what the manual calls for power wise, but that seems a bit underpowered to me.

proteus_X3

My Feedback: (16)

On mine I didn't move the elevator or rudder servos forward next to the throttle servo,I did place both of my batteries a 3800mah life for my servo and receiver and a 2000mah nmh for the engine ignition.My powerplant is a DLE 35RA and to get the aircraft's CG at the recommended staring point of 150mm I still needed to add 11.7 oz  lead at the firewall. maybe with the your G45 you willn't need any weight  up front.