Firewalkerd1

My Feedback: (1)

My LHS has a model tech dragon lady that I am looking at to put a G26 in. The plane has WS of 66", WA of 872, *** weight 6-6.75, 60-90 2 stroke, 80-120 4 stroke. Has anyone used this combo before. Looks like the cowl would fit with some clearing. Also some tail weight. Need advise.

PLANE JIM

My Feedback: (109)

I own two of them-one has a .61 super tiger glow and the other os 120 fs-they both perform well-I really think the g26 will be too heavy for this bird my 120 balances well with servos installed in rear of fuse-my own opinion though-good luck

Dav0012

There is 2 members down at my club flying these, one with a super tigre 90 2stroke and the oher with a G26 and trust me, they both fly amazing.

Hircflyer

I have one with a G 23 ...flies great.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

It is going to be heavy, but flyable.

I sold my G26 and bought a BCMAE SPE 26. Much lighter and plenty of power. The new light weight engines in this size are going to revolutionize small gas flying.

Firewalkerd1

My Feedback: (1)

After talking at my local flying today we also agreed the G26 would be too heavy. The discussion was to use a saito 100. Need you opinions/advise again.

Hircflyer

Here's my G23 installation, I used a double firewall to get around the triangle stock the aircraft came with on the firewall.

With a 15x8 APC it flys very well.

Lee62

Hi,
I bought a 60 Dragon Lady a few months ago. I am now getting around to building it (maybe I should say putting it together since it is an ARF) and I want to get some questions answered before I screw it up. You see, I am new to the world of ARF's and don't know what is normal and what isn't.
I have the wings together and lined up and my problem is they don't fit flush into the fuselage saddle. The trailing edge lacks about 1/4 inch of being flush. The fit of the wing to the saddle is tight so it seems to me that there is a lot of sanding and fitting to do. What bothers me is that it seems that by doing this I am going to be changing the angle of attack of the wing. Is this normal? Should I be concerned? How should I proceed? Any information and help you could give me would be greatly appreciated, as I don't want to mess up this beautiful plane. I am thinking about re-doing the trim on the plane since I always like to have my stuff different than the "stock" appearance. Any suggestions how I should proceed? [sm=confused.gif]

doctorgo

My Feedback: (5)

In regard to the wing: File the slot into which the "tang" at the wing's leading edge fits, deeper, a little at a time, until the the contour of the top of the wing matches the saddle in the fuselage. There will be no incidence problem.
Also lengthen the slots in the wing where the aileron rods protrude...there's not enough clearance for full aileron movement.
I located both tail servos in the aft location that's provided and the engine at 5 9/16 inches from the firewall. (Forget the spacer.) No extra balancing weight was needed with a .91 2 stroke-cycle engine. Don't beleive the weight stated on the box; the completed model will weigh near nine pounds.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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I am going to cut servo cavities in my wings and then use the old pattern trick of sharpening a piece of brass tubing so that I can cut a tunnel through the foam and into the servo cavity from the wing root. The tubing has to have a large enough outside diameter to permit passing the servo connector through the tunnel. This is easy as pie. Toss the aileron torque rods in the trash. That is where they belong.

I have a BME G90 gas conversion that I might try, although a Saito 1.25 would probably be the best choice for light weight and good power.

Lee62

Doctorgo

The contour on the saddle cutout is already a match to the top of the wing. My problem is the contour is not deep enough into the fuselage to allow the trailing edge of the wing to fully seat into the saddle and make it flush. I didn't mean that the trailing edge didn't make it to the saddle, I meant that it just didn't seat deep enough into the saddle to be flush with the bottom of the fuselage.

For power I plan on using a Super Tiger 90 mounted sideways with a Pitts going out of the bottom.

Thanks for the tip on the aileron control rods, I'll take care of them.

Textanker

Lee,
I have the ARC version with a ST 90 and Pitts on it, and it is perfect. Plenty of speed.

A few things to think about:
1. I definitely agree with the dual aileron servo idea; torque rods are not good enough. You will find yourself wanting more aileron pretty quickly.
2. I have a buddy with a Magnum 1.20 four stroke, and for some reason it just doesn't have near the speed that mine does. However, his is pretty new and I don't think that he has got the best prop for it yet.
3. I had to add some tail weight until I moved the servos to the tail, then it was perfect.
4. Make sure the LG is secured very well.
5. Definitely make sure the Firewall is pinned, glasses, etc. It is a pretty heavy plane for its size, but it lands slow and takes off in a heartbeat.

Here is a picture of mine. The canopy was shot off by an evil Nazi on its most recent flight . . .

AirGar

My Feedback: (7)

I'm with Artisan on this one, get rid of the torque rods and split the aileron servos up. For sure if you're going to over power it. I use the "heated rod" method to bore the servo tunnel through the foam wing then install/epoxy hardwood mounting blocks under the sheeting (and to the foam) for the servo mounting. I also did the "lightening" holes in the wings.

I ran the ST2500 (2 stroke 1.43? HP) in mine, swinging a 18x6-10. Of all the planes I've flown over the years, THAT one was probably my all time favorite. AWESOME flyers, and you can throw a lot of different motors at them.

I have a new ST 2000 (1.41 ci) that needs a new home......hmmmmmmmmmmm


Have a blast with it!

Gary

helibull

My Feedback: (2)

i have dragon lady w/ new zen. 20cc gas perfect setup g26 to heavy i hit cg with battery pack move ment perfect setup apc 15x8....

Lee62

Thanks for the helpful hints.

My DL is finally finished. I stripped her down to the basic white and re-trimmed her using Teal, Neon blue, and Red. The cowl was sanded down and re-painted to match. The canopy is from a Pulse 40. All the radio and servos are inside and power is a Super Tiger 90. It needed a little nose weight to balance and is now ready for her maiden flight. I haven't had a chance yet to fly her but I'm looking foreward to the chance. I thin she turned out pretty good. (Proud Papa)

scaleforlife

My Feedback: (1)

Hi there,

I just recieved my Dragon Lady and plan on installing a Saito 1.00. I like your comments about the aileron servo modification. Where did you cut outs the servo openings in the wing? How far from the root rib and from the trailing edge? Any help will be greratly appreciated.

Thanks,
scaleforlife

koopster

I picked up a Dragon Lady that I am going to put a Zenoah 20 on. I think I understand the boring a tunnel for the servos, but what did you do for the wing lightening holes?
Thanks.

kainisrj

Hey Guys,

I sold my DragonLady a little while ago - had an ASP 91 in it, it was the nicest plane to fly, so relaxing and enjoyable!!!
Just wanted to say...... enjoy it - Awesome choice of plane!!!!!!

RJ

scaleforlife

My Feedback: (1)

Just wanted to drop a line to say that I can't wait to get my Dragon Lady in the air. I was stationed at NAVFAC Argentia from 1980-83. It's funny that I flew RC for 10 years and stopped when I got my transfer orders for Newfoundland. That was the best duty station ever for me and my Family. Moose and Caribou walking at their leisure through your front yard in the morning. We would make the long trip to St Johns just to go to McDonald's for a burger. I never did miss the Black ice on the roads. Anyway, I saw that you were from St Johns and it brought back lots of Great Memories of a simpler time in my life. At any rate, I noticed there were lightning holes in the outer portion of the wings. I don't know if that is what they were referencing or not. I also plan on changing the servo setup for the wings. Well, it's back to work. Take care and enjoy the flying. I just started back a few months ago. Things have really changed in 28 years.

scaleforlife ( Ken )

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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If you haven't bought the Saito 1.00 yet, don't. Buy the Saito 1.25a instead. They are so close in size and weight that I wish I had two 1.25a's instead of one 1.00 and one 1.25a.


Ed Cregger

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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If you aren't going to strip off the stock covering and replace it with your own color scheme, you won't be doing the wing lightening holes. It doesn't need it anyway. Not for average sport flying. Foam just doesn't weigh that much. <G>

This model is not going to be a true patternship regardless of how light you make it.

If you haven't bought your G20 as yet, consider purchasing one from Ralph Cunningham at RC Ignitions. He will replace the stock ignition system with something that uses a much lighter ignition battery. The stock Zenoah system requires a huge battery when compared to other ignition systems. Ralph may also be able to lighten your engine up (remove metal).

I have a G62 Lite and a G26 Lite by Ralph and am very happy with them.

Ed Cregger

Cap

Hi Scaleforlife,

There's a few of us from Newfoundland lurking around RCU and other forums. The St.John's Club is more than 30 years old www.sjrcf.com . koopster is our club president (meeting tonight). he "acquired" the dagon lady from me. The Zenoah 20 should make a good match and fly well.

Every once in a while we go to the base and fly off the airfield in Argentia. Good news is the snow is finally gone :-)

Cheers,
Carl

hrrcflyer

Hi Firewalkerd1,

I have a new Dragon Lady that I put a Saito 125 in. I also put the elevator and rudder servo's in the rear of the plane to help balance it. I hope to do a maiden flight this weekend.. If everything goes OK, I will let you know how it flies next week.

Fly safe and have fun!!
David