nicolau

I used pull/pull cables, never had any trouble and givesapositive movement,saves a ton of weight, I been using pull/ pull cables for the last ten yrs. Maybe more work but once you use these cables youwon't use anything else. Ck back on the previou pages for some of my pictures.
You are doing good work, however when you add weight in the back you have to add more dead weight upfront.

aramsdell

I don't believe I am going to worry about the weight up front. I did add a few grams with my set-up but I have a 22 oz motor and 10S 4900 lipo pack to hold the nose down. The lipos are 2 5S 4900s and they are about 1.5 lbs ea. A 3 blade 16 x 10 also adds weight. I'll be mounting the motor tonight. I have to give some thought to battery changes. I would love to cut a door free but that would require quite a bit of framing inside her.

tomd-RCU

Hello,

I just received a Projet Cessna 182 from Nitromodels and it is still in the box.

Aramsdell, I really like your setup for the elevator and rudder. I am thinking of following your setup for my model.

However, I am toying with the idea of making this Cessna a taildragger (granted it will not be scale).

I am thinking of transfering the main landing gear to the front. This will, I am sure, spare the airplane some extra weight .

Is it something I can envisage ? Is it doable? Any doubts about this setup ?

aramsdell

There have been some aftermarket conversions to taildraggers for 182's. You may do a searchor two for that.
I used 3mm flybar from a Century Swift Heli for the rudder control. I use 3/32 piano wire for the elev. I would change that to 3mm for the elev if I did it again.
See my post 1097. The little barrel shaped part is the center hub for the tailrotor of a 450 sized heli. I pust in 1.5 mm screws from each side so there are 3 'set screws' gripping the hub to the piano wire.
Then I bent the other 90 deg bend. I dremeled out a slot just big enough for the center hub to pass through into the fuse Then after it was in I could glue on the horiz. stabs and screw in the part with the control horn on it.

aramsdell

The 182 is getting closer to finished.
I have a Dimension Engineering programmable light controller and 1/2 watt LEDs coming.
The motor and ESC are installed and the Bat harness is finished. It will share the Series adapter that I use on my 10 S Lipo Yak.
16 x 10 x 3 blade Master Airscrew. 70A HV Hobbywing ESC. 10S 4000 and 10S 4900 packs.

Static test: 45 amps WOT and 1700 watts. Oh and I had to go pick up everything that was loose in my basement becasue it all blew into a corner. ..
CG looks achievable without too much re-arranginng things. I was thinking of using a small lipo and CC Bec for radio power. If I need any nose weight I'll put a small 5 cell
NiMh in the cowl.

aramsdell

Final weight will be about 15 lbs, maybe less. I am at 13 lbs 13.5 oz and have to add a flight battery in the nose . That should be enough to let me maneuver packs around behind the firewall for the right CG.The Dimension Engineering DElight controller and 1/2 w leds are a hoot. I have programmed doubloe flashing wing stobes and a up/sown ramping red LED that simulates a rotating beacon. Hopefully the maiden will happen this weekend.

aramsdell

idened her today ! WooHoo !!!

I struggled to bring the CG forward without using dead weight. I still need weight in the nose. I have 10 S 4000 and 10S 4900 packs to use in it. Flew both. I had to use lots of down trim. I even have a 5 cell nimh in the nose and need lots more nose weight.
Now flying...... It will knife edge ! fast rolls and great inverted. It has unlimited vertical at the moment but it will suffer as I add nose weight. I did about 15 + landings and the nose gear finally had just a little bend in it after dropping in a stall break, from a foot or so, several times.
Don't have the lighting in yet. I am going to add a 6 cell 1600 NiMh and a CC Bec to run the lighting. That and the supplied motor stand offs (6oz.) will go a long way toward getting the right CG.

1UGLYPUG

GLAD TO HEAR IT FLEW GOOD! I should have mentioned the fact that I had to add some weight to mine,, if you look at my pics on page 43, you can see where I have weights wrapped around the motor mount. Sorry I haven't taken pics of where I have the battery hatch/compartment on mine. Like I said before, it is on the bottom. There is room for a compartment between the wing strut mounts. What motor and ESC did you use? I am using the E flite power 160 and Turnigy 100 amp ESC. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

aramsdell

I have a 6354, 10S, rated 2400 watt motor from Leaders Hobby (Hong Kong) Great Motor. Just a little shorter than a Monster 160. About 22 oz. I think the Hobbypartz Monster 160 is 27 oz. with all the mounts etc. I built a ply tray between the Firewall and the former near the strut attatchment point and I have (2) 5s 4000 or 4900 packs in there with one against the firewall and one just behind it. 5 cell 1600 on the motor standoffs and the esc on the standoffs as well. I need to put an external arming plug on it and a smaller anti-spark plug on it.
The ESC is a 70 A HV Opto from Hobbywing. It was drawing 45 A WOT static with a 3 blade 16 x 10 Master Airscrew.

Merry Christmas to you as well !

Note: see later posts as to final battery location !!!

1UGLYPUG

Your plane looks really great! My motor is an E-Flite 160 , 245 KV with up to 2700 watts, and pulls up to 60-78 AMPS., so I am using a 100 amp ESC. It uses props from 18x8 to 20x10, so I can't use the 16x10. Wish I could. I have about a 17x12 prop on it. BTW, what is the KV of your motor????? How do you put in your batteries in there ? Did you cut a hole somewhere? I would like to know ,,, Thanks,,,

aramsdell

For now I have to remove the wing to change batteries. . I added the bolts at the outer end of the struts to take up most of the wing load. The strut attachment plate fastens to the fuse with 12 mm long screws that came with the ARF for a different purpose. Servo screws maybe? There were a lot of 'em. I used pieces of light pine in the fuse for the screws to catch into. I had my doubts about the main gear attachment into the light ply frame back there. I beefed it up considerably before the first flight and still had stress and a little cracking from the gear flexing. I added some light pine and ply tonight to distribute the loads more. I still may do a little more there. My wish is that I had another cowl to play with. If I could beef it up a little I would add mini piano hinges along the top middle of the cowl and have both top halves of the cowl on each side fold up. Then I would slide a 5 cell lipo in and part way into the firewall on each side and also use a CC BEC Pro for flight power. That would eliminate the dead weight of 2 1600 mah 5 cell bats in the cowl to run the lights and radio.
These are things that may happen but possibly on yet another of the same model from NP. I see the Red on is on sale for 180 $ again.
It is going to be hard not to build this ARF again because it IS so good looking and.......at way tail heavy it shows so much promise !
Yesterday it was flying with lots of down elev trim in it. What do you think happened when I wen to flaps then full flaps with up elev to flap programmed in??? Yup pointed at the moon!
Not a big deal because I expected as much and flew it that way. I did land under full flaps and it was very pleasing. Same with half flaps.
Tonight I still have to add nose weight. I am going to change my Nylon motor standoffs to the steel standoffs that were meant for the 4 strokers soft mount. Then add the battery for the lighting . That will add about 11.5 oz to the nose and get me back on the CG mark.


I did grease it on a few times even as pitchy as it was due to the CG.

1Uglypug, the motor I have is 250kv so your Elite 160 will spin it almost as fast. Your performance should be comparable to mine. If all is balanced you should have close to full vertical with the 16 x 10 3 blade (on 10 s packs).

Have you put the Eflite 160 on a wattmeter? I have a Hobbypartz Monster 160 on the same 10S packs( on a Yak 54). It is pulling 2480 watts on a 20 x 10 APCe. The 17 in. would seem to be under propped for that motor. Try a 16 x 10 x 3. The only hard part is finding the proper spinner. I just went with 3 blade plastic for $ 8.00. If I finally get everything the way I want it and the plane isn't then too shop worn I'll get a Tru-Turn 3 blade aluminum meant for the 182.

I've got plenty of speed and tons of low end thrust. Static watts is somewhere around 1750.
I would have put a 16 x 12 x 3 on it but couldn't find that pitch size. Are you using a 10 S Pack?

1UGLYPUG

I flew with 8s a few times, but have been flying with 10s,, a 6s and 4s 4000 mah,, I have a 16x10 prop, I guess I might try it out. I am not sure if I am using the 18x12 or the 17x12. I just know it has plenty of power. I fly around at about 1/2 throttle. That 16x10 prop is the biggest you will find, until you go to the big bucks! And I am not into the big bucks! My next project is going to be my ASM A-26 Invader 90 inch wing span. I got it from Hobby People, and they don't have them anymore. I will try to get that picture of the bottom of my plane and the hatch.

aramsdell

I now have 2 1600 mah 5 cell NiMh and some standoffs that together added over 11 oz and it still flies tail heavy. Still need the down trim in it. I managed to bend the nosegear today. I found a 5mm (same as stock) nosegear and mains for a Cessna 310 made by ??? and sold by Advantage Hobby. I only need the nose gear. It is a coil spring type and should drop in except no good way for the wheel pant......
I really need to move the bats forward and have access without removing the wing. I am seriously pondering splitting the cowl, somehow, and redoing my motor mount with ply and cutting 2 holes through the firewall to slide bats into on either side of the Motor Mount. Would need some kind of quick hatch release for the big cowl that would hold it from flying away.... could put all my power connections there . Get rid of the two NiMh and just use CC Bec Pro HV.

Anybody got a spare cowl to mess with?????

1UGLYPUG

I found a cowl for the red CMP version I have, but I can't recall exactly where that was. I will try to dig through my papers and see if I can find the info. You know, I kind of like that idea of splitting the cowl. If you split it from front to back on the top and bottom, and placed hinges on the top, and kept one side screwed on, you could flip up one whole side, and maybe use velcro to hold down that side when closed.. Or, maybe just a part of the cowl on one side. You have got me thinking .... It would be easier than the way I am doing it now. "If" there is room for two batteries under the motor mount... Hhhhmmmmm. I could remove some of the weight I have up front,,,,,

aramsdell

Ahh, here is the kicker. I think that the batteries will have to go part way through the firewall. Mine won't fit under the motor mount (as I have it now- it's 4 pieces of 10-24 rod with 1/2 " o.d.nylon and steel standoffs)
My thought is to builda motor box of ply and have the sides of the motor box extend through the firewall for some number of inches.Then on each side of the motor I will use the side of the box as one side of a trough to slide a battery into. A little velcro in the trough and a velcro strap or two aroundeach battery and Voila ! The trough will let me slide a battery in/out to get the cg right for different weight battery sets. Ie) 5 s 4000 and 5 s 4900. The 4900's being longer and heavier than the 4000's.

Thoughts? I like the idea of splitting Top/bottom but I don't think I can do this idea that way.The mount will be a little lighter and I will lose two 5 oz. batteries!


Al

aramsdell

More progress on battery mounting. The plywood parts aren't all made. there will be pieces standing vertically extending through the firewall near the center of the cowl and screwed and glued to a 1x 3/4 piece of pine that doubles up the back of the center 'post' that the long all-thread goes through. 2 short bolts will go through(2) layers of ply to complete the motor attachment.

1UGLYPUG

I LIKE IT!!! I may have a new project !!

aramsdell

Doing more work tonight, I'll post a couple more pics then. I am going to carefully cut part of the top of the cowl out . Might have to look for 1/4 turn micro fasteners !

aramsdell

Things went slow tonight. I came to a screeching halt almost as soon as I started. The blade on my bandsaw decided to break and thus a trip to Lowe's.
Epoxy hardening right now. Wish they made DZus fasteners in ultra micro size.

aramsdell

My plan unfolding. cut out of cowl will happen somewhere along the tape lines.
If you look carefully, you can see the 4 holes in the firewall used to hold my cowl on. Access is through the motor cooling cutouts with a really long phillips bit.

aramsdell

New landing gear came today. It goes to a Cessna 310. Advantage Hobby

Products ordered:

SKU	Product	Item price	Quantity	Total
TOPTOPA1666	Fixed Landing Gear Cessna 310 ARF	$19.27	1	$19.27

Subtotal:	$19.27
Shipping & handling:	$4.99
[img]wlmailhtml:{E21B51C5-21A8-4DF2-9AE8-0AF72444678D}mid://00000010/!x-usc:cid:spacer_black.gif[/img]
Total:	$24.26

It is for the whole l-gear set. Two mains and nose., still cheaper than a Robart strut and it fits virtually unmodified. If I want to use the wheel pant I'll hve to put the offset bend into it. You can see by the arrow where I had a flat filed onto the stocker for the steering arm. THe new gear already has one at that position !!!!!

The hatch is cut. Both pics are after cutting. One shows how tight the cut can be the way I did it.
I got a small break-away blade knife from Lowe's. Drew the outline on masking tape. I scored carefully along the design with the knife. Then heat just the tip unitl almost red then cut slowly and shallow about 1/4 to 1/2 inch at a time and reheat. Be really careful on the corner and go shallow so you don't widen the gap between the parts. I am going to epoxy glass some 'shelves' to hold the cowl's hatch and use nylon flat head screws to hold the rest.
Anyone know the color of this blue paint??

1UGLYPUG

NICE JOB,,, I wonder if there is anyway to use some good magnets on the sides opposite the hinges you are going to use? I really don't like the idea of screws, takes too long to open if you have some smoke in there and want to open in a hurry,,,,,,,, I finally took some pics, but will have to post tomorrow,,, I made a new nose gear out of some extra strong steel rod,, heated and bent myself,, little stronger than the original,, holding up real well so far. Good job on the cuts,,,

aramsdell

The new gear held up splendidly despite the plane coming to a screaching halt on one landing. The nose wheel rim broke and the wheel pushed 90 degrees around the bend in the bottom of the gear and the plane did a slow motion nose-over. I haven't hinged the hatch yet. I flew with blue painters' tape holding it on. I experienced some interference on each fight this time. None the last time I flew. I have some really long leads for power and I have to change this and use a switch for the radio and put a choke coil on the throttle lead. The ESC is an Opto but it can't hurt.. It currently plugs in under the cowl hatch with a 'y' cable back to the throttle channel. Not the best of situations.

Now the flying. Beautiful ! I have the elev to flap mix just about right now. The CG is at about 80 mm but I still am thinking I need more down thrust. I shot a lot of landings and full flap landings have a real float to them. I did a really pretty mains only greaser. The guys at the field said it looks just like full size in the air 30 feet away. 10s 4900 is good for prob 12 min mixed flying easily with the 3 blade 16 x 10 on it. cruising speed is round 1/2 throttle no flaps and a little less throttle with 1/2 flaps.


Happy New Year guys !

1UGLYPUG

If this loaded, it is a look at the bottom hatch and the power switch/plug. I use all 4 mm connectors. I would like the battery box in the front like you have, and I could get rid of some of the extra weights I added. I forgot I had these pics with some batteries in,, a tight fit. You can also see the front strut I made from a steel rod. Works pretty good.

lgrote

The brown truck delivered my cessna today and after inventory, all parts arrived in good health. Great kit for the money. I have a question as to engine requirements. Will the Saito FG-20 gasoline engine have enough power for this kit? In following this forum I have not seen any flying with this engine. (help)
Thanks
LG