dgliderguy

Great idea, Casey! What a hoot! I also need to look into a sound system, so it will play "Tequila" as I do low passes over the runway.... and maybe some dingleballs in the side windows, and a Virgen de Guadalupe on the dash... ay, caramba!

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Now we're talkin! That would be a show stopper... Don't forget the overlapping "cough" track... LOL

Casey

piperfan59

My Feedback: (13)

Got the stars and bars from Major Decal. They are stick on not water slide. I could have ordered the water slide which lay down better but it was all my LHS had. I need to finish the insignia. Probably US Army since I already have those letters.

roaddog2

There's days when I wonder 'bout you guys... Other days, I'm certain! :O)
RD

jaless

Not a good day yesterday. I have been having nothing but problems with the JC 28cc gas engine that I installed in my cub at the beginning of the year. When it runs it runs great but I have had more dead stick landing then I can count.

Yesterday I was in an extended inverted climb and pulled through to right side up. A few seconds later the engine died. Tried to make a turn back to the field but I was too low and too slow and I tip stalled into the ground. Body is gone but wings and tail surfaces are all ok. Guess I may have uncovered the clunk for an extended time but not sure. It was a full tank and was only in the air for 2 or 3 minutes.

Need:

Body
Rudder
Wing tube
1 strut

Price for these parts is well north of $400. Would almost be worth buying a whole new bird.

The Old Skeptic

Joe, don't feel like the Lone Ranger. I lost my first two H9 1/4 scale Cubs to tip stalls. Cubs are very prone to doing that. Now I have lots of extra wings and tails because it was always just as expensive to buy a whole new bird. But then I got smart and heat-warped 1/2 " of washout in the wing tips (trailing edge up at the tips) and now tip stalling is a thing of the past. When it does stall (and I did so purposely a couple of times) it simply flutters a little straight ahead. I also fly electric so engine stalling is unheard of also. Good luck with your new one!

Ed . . . . .

jaless

Thanks Ed, I may do the same thing, build in washout on the next one. I really love my H9 cub and I love how it flies. I will be back in the air soon.

Joe

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Plus one on the washout. Can also reflex the ailerons up about an 1/8th inch up as well. Same effect.

The Old Skeptic

Hi Lifer,

I would like to try the reflex trick sometime to see how it responds. The warping I mentioned really does the job great. We always did that when building sailplanes. Seemed like the best thing to do because it is so effective.

I see that you are from KC. I was born and raised there and now live in Newbury Park, CA (Shangrila for sure). Just got back from KC after spending three weeks there (Gladstone and Weatherby Lake) playing with fireworks with my Bro and Sis. Was very hot and muuuuuuuucho windy. Where do you fly there and how do you handle the weather conditions?

Ed . . . . . . .

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Dear Skeptic,

Just used to it, I guess! Was born here. Lived for a while in Texas, Colorado, and Livermore in your area. Wind is okay by me...keeps things cool. I fly with the Sunchasers near 435 and Woodland Avenue. I live within 5 blocks of the Antioch Mall. PM me if you ever visit again. We can go burn some fuel!

The Old Skeptic

Lifer,

435 is all over the place but just where is Woodland Avenue? Give me the names of a close cross street, like Truman Road or whatever.

Ed . . . . .

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

North Woodland Aevenue and Cookingham Drive. Go north from that intersection about 300 feet. It is about 7 miles SSW of KCI Airport.

The Old Skeptic

I know exactly where that is now, Lifer. I found that field about three years ago on one of my visits there after calling one of the local hobby shops. It's just past a crook in the road at NE 126th st, and way back off the road past a locked gate (that was always locked) where you can see the wind sock off in the distance. My sis has driven me by it a couple of times but never anyone there. But it's about 7 miles due east of MCI, not SSW as you stated. Yep - I'll PM you next year around July 4th when I make my annual visit.

Ed . . .

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

It would be a pleasure. It's a great field. PM me and I'll give you my phone number.

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Here's a thought on the sall/spin characteristics of the J-3. Another option to wash-out on the outer wing panels might be to use a stall-strip, similar to what is used on Beechcraft Bonanza's and some Grumman Yankee models. It's a long triangular tubing shaped device that is attached to the very leading edge of the inboard portion of the wing. what occurs is that just before the whole wing stalls, the stall-strip stalls the boundary layer on the inboard section of the wing, while the outboard sections have not yet stalled, maintaining the ability to level the wings. It may not be the end-all to stalls with loss of roll control, but may give a few seconds for recovery before the stall propogates outward and engulfs the entire wing. K&S tubing makes brass and aluminum triangular tubing, looks like about 3/16" on each face. Both washout and stall strips may be a good answer. Pain them Cub yellow and most people would not think anything of it. It pretty much does what washout does, if you have a hard time getting in the exact warp in each wing panel and keeping it there with changes in temperature and the pecularities of heat-shrink covering.

Anyway, it's another idea.

Jyjkoz

My Feedback: (1)

I finallu assembled my PNP version....Not too many issues .I guess my was the last batch produced before they discontinued the PNP version... The one thing I am wondering is on the PNP version I am looking at adding almost 9oz of nose weight ...Is that normal? I thought that it should'nt have to add that uch nose weight on the PNP version?  This is using the 4 3/4 " from the LE to balance

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Mine balanced just fine. I put two LiFe battery packs in the cabin, one next to the front seat, the other under the feet of the rear-seated pilot and never had a problem.

Finishing my second now, with a DLE-20 in the business end.

harttvboy04

My Feedback: (32)

Hi All!

I have had this airplane around 3 months or so now, and have around 30 or so flights (judging by about 8-10 flights per gallon LOL!). I have managed to read virtually all of this thread, and I have recieved a wealth of information. I am really thinking about taking this cub to the super cub limits...

Here is my setup -

All guided by my Spektrum DX8

Saito 180 for power (thus 10 flights a gallon) on 30% Heli Fuel, swings a Zoar 18x6 @ 8000 VERY rich for the cold
Hangar 9 Remote Glow (Audio Jack type connector)
JR r921x receiver with 2 satellites, redundant JR power switches in the removable floorboard between the pilot's legs
TM1000 telemetry module with RPM, Temp and RXR voltage - ABSOLUTLEY invaluble for maintaining good running temps (Horizon recommends 130-170 degrees operating temp for the Saitos)
One Turnigy 4500 LiFe 30c RX battery
4x Power HD 1501 MG servos (analog, 240 OZ torque, on ailerons and elevator)
2x Futaba s3010 analog servos (90 OZ Torque, on Rudder and throttle)
Dubro 5 5/8" 1/3 scale wheels (look GREAT, not too big and better for taller grass, I had to purchase 5MM Music Wire and custom cut a longer length than stock for these wheels, No big deal)
I am in the process of installing a SwitchGlo Pro on board glow system, powered by my reciever (the only unit around that I know of that does this) and is programmed to a mix with my throttle for activation around 2000 RPM for stable idle in the cold

I also have the old (but brand new) Dubro Aluminum snow skis, which I have not figured out yet how to mount in a stable fashion.

On all my wiring, I an using either servo keeps (yellow connector braces) or hot glue that can be peeled off if need be. I used the hot glue ALL over the place, including where the wires could rub on something - my goal was to set this plane up and essentially forget about, and go over everything every 30 or so flights. For all my telemetry wiring, drilled out a hole in the firewall 3/8" wide, and this was just enough to comfortably route the wiring, as well as center the wires for Hot Glue - I hold the wires away from the wood so that they do not rub after the hot glue cools. This was the method used all around the aircraft. For the SwitchGlo Pro, I just cut the wiring off the audio type connector, and soldered the proper mini JST connector to the wires, then used heat shrink tubing to secure the connector.

The airplane will fly again the day after Thanksgiving. I will update all on how the SwitchGlo Pro works, my opinions and hopefully some photos and videos on my YouTube page (cmburkhalter is the username).

The Power HD servos I was a touch worried about at first, but now I fly with confidence as I do with any other brand servo. Plenty of torque for the application, decent (but not digital quality) centering, but definitely power hogs (about 7-10 flights pulls around 1700 mAh out of my battery). This could also be because of the Futaba s3010, which Tower's website says you need to supply plenty of power for.

Thanks guys, lots of good info has helped this build be a total success!

Best,

Chris

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Chris, it sounds like you've got a pretty good set-up for your Cub. It sounds like the modifications you've made really take your Cub to the next level. I'll bet the Saito 180 gives you more than enough power. I've seen them fly with up to a Saito 150, so I'm sure the 180 makes it even more capable of performing almost any maneuver.

I'm on my second H-9 Cub, with a DLE-20 in the snout. I've got the 5" Du-Bro air-filled tires, running two 3100 LiFe's. I used aluminum aileron servo mounts, as I don't really trust the wood blocks on the plywood aileron cover plate. Stripped off the black trim, lightning stripe, numbers and replaced them with some early WWII military markings, with "U.S. ARMY" on the bottom of the left wing. Also striped the rudder with blue, red and white Monokote.

harttvboy04

My Feedback: (32)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MMw05bfLeY[/youtube]


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kV5qK2CreZc[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijQWncF7QJ0[/youtube]

This is My cub - I acutally just used Servo Tape (Heavy Duty double sided stick tape) with CA on the wood to secure. WILL NOT come off. Ever.
I actually just had to upgrade my fuel system to 1/8" inner diameter glow fuel tubing, clunk and filter. It eliminated an issue I was having where the mixture would lean out @ High throttle settings. I also Dead Stick'd the plane IN a spin. The recovery was great, but my choice of landing location was not - I was basically trying to show off, and ended up costing me 300 worth of a right wing panel and a strut set... [:@]

I DO intend on turning this into a super cub though I bought a Slimline inverted pitts for my Saito 180 and it does not fit - there is not enough clearance between the engine and firewall. The Dave Patrick Super Cub cowl from Fiberglass Specialties should fit the bill and give me the clearance. It seems that the now damaged wing panel will become my test bed for cutting out flaps...

Thanks guys!

Chris

jaycam

I just bought the Hangar 9 Cub and I was thinking of using my Saito 1.25. Does the 1.25 do well with this cub and what prop have you found to pull it around the best? Thanks very much. Mike

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I can't speak to the 1/4 Scale Cub, but I have the 82" span 40-sized 1/5 Scale with a Saito 82 and that is very overpowered. I only put the 82 in because I also intend to use the Cub on floats. Otherwise the Saito .56 would give me scale flying.

Just my $.02

Bob

dgliderguy

Mike,

I fly my H9 Cub with the Saito 125, and I'd say it is just about as perfect a match as you will find. I was going to mount my DLE20 in there, but I prefer the four-stroke sound for something as regal as a big yellow Cub. The DLE20 will go in my BH Pitts.

I'm running a 16x8APC prop on mine seems to do the job with no complaints. Fun, fun plane. You're going to enjoy it......!

Mustang314

My Feedback: (1)

I have flown my Cub on floats with a Saito 125 using a 16-8 prop. The flights are very scale.
Fred

harttvboy04

My Feedback: (32)

Hi there,

My buddy used a 16x6 on his Saito 125 and preferred that prop. Never tried the 16x8, but we were sure that it was going to be too much pitch. If you are willing to run 30% Heli, you might get away with 8000 RPM on a 17x6 Xoar prop. Would get a nice low idle too...my $.02. My Saito 180 swings an 18x6 Xoar @ 8600-8700 on 30% Heli. Perfectly overpowered. Talk about scale, I can fly he engine @ 4000 RPM and climb @ 30-40 degrees comfortably @ 5500 RPM. Swing a big prop slowly, with a rich engine and not only will it last, but be FAR more scale. FYI perfect scale prop will be 18" for 1/4 scale. The only downside - when you INEVITABLY open the throttle wide, my 180 guzzles the fuel but it is really nice to take off, go full power, go vertical and then hammerhead into a one wheeled touch and go upwind...SWEET!!!!

Chris