BlitzPig

Think it's somewhere in the middle. Maybe a few pages earlier,

GalenB

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It was farther back than I remembered... Post #796

rtn9105

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Do you guys think this airframe is strong enough for a 40cc gas engine?

cannonball200

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You would need to do some firewall work bracing. My Dle 20 fly's it with plenty of power. Are you planning on hovering and etc.?
Thanks,
Eddie

rtn9105

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No not hovering
My plane has a G20 on it and it flies very nice and very scale but I do think it would be fun to have some extra power.

cannonball200

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That would work.... You always have throttle control.... try it and then it will have the horsepower of a Super Cub for short take offs and landings.
Thanks,
Eddie

Bob dunlop

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Throttle control ? I thought you just pushed that stick all the way up and left it

hidaven

What size servo arms are needed for the ailerons, rudder, elevator?

tevans55

I am building this plane for for our local children's hospital. We have a Wings for KIds Air Show every June and we have raised $118,400 to date for the hospital. The hospital purchased this plane for our club to fly and display to raise money for the hospital. But I digress...

I tell you this because the servos were donated. They are the recommended Spektrum DS 821 servos. I fly Futaba and typically use Futaba and Hitec servos. As I began to cut the extra arms off of the Spektrum servo arms they seemed to be more brittle than what I was used to with Futaba or Hitec. I therefore purchased the DuBro HD Spektrum/JR servo arms and used those.

I don't know that there is any evidence that the standard arms would not work just fine...I just made the change primarily based on the size and ownership of the plane. I have put a donated 30cc engine on the plane so I feel the ounce of prevention is warranted. If the plane were to always be flown in a scale manner then standard arms again would probably be fine. This plane will be flown in air shows and demonstrations and will probably be flown beyond the scale parameters of the full scale cub. The reason for this will be to show off the modified graphics being added to the plane.

Hope this helps a little.

Bob dunlop

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Finally got some time to work on the Cub again...it's ready to fly now...vacation starts Monday so I will maiden her then
Took some ideas from you guys and others for cockpit detailing...here are some pics

lumpy649

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Hi Bob,
How did your CG come out, I'm going to be installing the same power package as you and I am wondering if you had to add any addition weight for balance. Plane looks great by the way, Good Luck with the maiden

Gary

Bob dunlop

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Thanks for the compliment...it's a little nose heavy ATM but that will be fine for the maiden...I like my planes a little nose heavy anyway

Bob dunlop

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Just measured it on the CG machine...4 1/4.....I would imagine that should be ok...if not I can always tape a brick to the rudder

SrTelemaster150

W/all that awesome cabin detail a nice, detailed, scale Continental sticking out the sides of the cowl would make you Cub even more impressive.

Bob dunlop

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Wow! Thank you so much for that link....I was just sitting here wondering what to do about an engine..I'm all over this!
Thanks again,Bob

SrTelemaster150

Here's the pdf file for the assembly manual.

http://www.topnotchkits.com/index_fi...bly_Manual.pdf

I'm going to get one of these in 1/5 scale for the World Models J-3 I just ordered.

cannonball200

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Great job on the interior of your J-3 Cub!!!!!!!!!

Bob dunlop

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Thanks Cannonball!...I just ordered the dummy engine and a new cowl to put it in...I'll post pics of the build

SrTelemaster150

Did you order the Top Notch dummy engine kit?

Bob dunlop

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Yep

SrTelemaster150

Cool, let us know how it goes.

I want to get the 1/5 scale for my World Models Cub.

hidaven

Anyone find a 12mm prop nut or spinner? This bare nut looks like junk! : (((

BlitzPig

For those using the DLE-20, how much and what parts of cowling are you cutting away for cooling? I've run a gallon through mine in the air without the cowling for break-in. Iput the cowling on and it overheated after about 10 minutes of low power cruising around. Ihad only cut a 3 inch long gap for spark plug on bottom, opened the square airbox and opened the aft side of the the false cylinder baffling.
Icame home and enlarged the two holes above the airbox and opened a large triangle on the bottom. Ihope this is enough. Iwant to preserve as much cowling as possible. It doesn't help that it was 90F today.

Bob dunlop

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I agree...I was going to use the WWI washer from Balsa USA but it just doesn't look right with that 12mm nut....I have scoured the Internet and have not been able to find anything in 12mm....I'm thinking about buying another 12mm prop adapter and taking it to a machine shop and having it turned down to 10mm...that will open up a number of possibilities,like the Balsa USA WWi 10mm prop washer and nut in that antique brass finish.
Bob

Bob dunlop

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You may need to run your engine a little richer to keep it cool with the cowl on it