Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

On both of my Cubs, one a land-plane version with a DLE-20 and one a seaplane verison with a DLE-30, I made life a little easier by mounting the throttle servo to a plywood mount on the left side of the cabin, pretty much exactly where you would find the throttle lever on the full-size cub. From there, it was a straight shot direct to the throttle arm on the engines without any interference with the fuel tank. I'll take a photo and post it in the next day or two.

cannonball200

My Feedback: (36)

John, Aren't you the guy that changed the landing gear springs to o'rings? I copied the pic's and posted them above.

Thanks,
Eddie

hidaven

My landing in the video was the roughest of the 6 that day.....absolutely no spring issues combined with those tires. The tires do an amazing job at softening the landing.

aerobatixkid

Anyone have missing wheel hubs with their ARF ? Im missing both inside wheel hubs and they are not in any bags anywhere. Are dubro wheels a direct replacement?

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Here is a photo of the interior with throttle/linkage arrangement. Giving up some fidelity to scale, in addition to the throttle servo, mounted in an aluminum mount in the cockpit, I am using an aftermarket Roto-Flow fuel tank instead of the stock tank.

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Don't know if those were mine, but I was one of the early folks to use and show how to use the O-rings. They work very well. so far, haven't had to replace any.

[]TEX[]

I remember when you did this and immediately copied it. I have been on the same o-rings since 2010.

Side note: Not sure if anyone remembers, but I had a heck of a time getting my G20 to run consistently and well. Turns out it was the ignition battery and I'm now running all the electronics on one 5000mAh 2S lipo with two separate regulators for servos and ignition.

I have since converted the cub to a Super running a 18x6 Xoar.

[]TEX[]

Here's some pics, just got back from the field.

I was trying to copy this.



This was a close 2nd.

hidaven

Actually I think the 6 inch inflatables look really scale......how do you add a picture here without having to link it from somewhere else?

[]TEX[]

I agree, much better than the OEM wheels.

Oh and just click the link for pics.

harttvboy04

My Feedback: (32)

Hi All,

Just wanted to come back and report.

I have well over 200 flights on this cub now. I have had 3 engines of different types - saito 180 with slimline Pitts inverted, dle 30 and a zenoah g-23 magneto. By far, the best suited is the Zenoah g-23.

This engine is great for a power plant. It sips fuel, and is just a great engine overall. I reversed the fuel tank and removed the engine backplate, mounting on the three lugs that would attach the engine to the backplate.

I use the Dubro 1/3 scale wheels, nice fuel dot, Ohio Model Products tail wheel, Sullivan Tail flying wires, and power HD 1501mg servos, a Futaba s3010 on rudder and Hitec hs-485 on throttle.

Everything good so far, but the Zenoah is only 2 LONG flights old on this airframe, but overall has about 3-4 gallons through it.

Today, the re-maiden with the zenoah went uneventfully. Landed with a full tank.

Filled the few drops up and decided to go for endurance. 30 minutes later I landed to find that I lost an engine mounting bolt, the hinge pins in the lower door, a wing strut pin and my nerve! I'll have to check the balance on the prop. Btw, there is only half a tank left when I landed. Amazing.

I love this plane. I always enjoy the relaxation of flying it. If you are on the fence about a power plant, do not worry about the 'downsides' of a magneto. Just get one, and enjoy the simplicity. I sure did this evening. This plane is timeless. Will never look back about the servos either - all 45 minutes of runtime only consumed 500 mAh of my 6.6v LiFe 4500 mAh battery. Awesome.

Thanks guys!

Best,

Chris

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

Sunday I took my "re-engineered" PnP Zenoah G-20 powered Cub out. I removed the NiMh batteries the plane came with and replaced then with a single 2 cell A123 pack with on board balancer, a Tech-Aero IBEC, and most importantly a RCExl ignition. This was my first outing with the new ignition and not a single dead stick! This is a big change from the last couple of outings where every flight ended with a dead stick landing. I flew for 45+ minutes and used less than a tank of fuel and only put 550mah back into the A123 battery.

I am very pleased with the new setup!

hidaven

Some mods to the cub.......

1. Pilots salute. Heat gun and CA
2. Silver tru turn Cub prop nut.
3. Black alum. 4-40 washers for the cowl.
4. Dubro 6 inch inflatables......

ZX11

I bought the RCExl ignition for my cub. However, the spark plug cap doesn't fit over the spark plug base. I had to remove the wire clip that holds the cap together in order to get enough give so it would flex over the plug base. It fits without the wire clip. Any one else have the problem?

bsbauman

I have been lurking around this thread, not sure if I had posted a pic yet so here ya go.

Started as an H9 1/4 scale, recovered entirely inside and out with fabric, all electronics and A123 batteries are hidden under the floor and behind the firewall. Accurate stitching and rib detailing based on 3 view drawings.

I plan on going up to an 20 cell A123 setup (10s2p) from the current 8s2p.





During a touch and go this weekend, thankfully while during a "touch", two A123 cells died on me... back to the bench to test, replace and rewire batteries.

[]TEX[]

Time to switch over to more reliable batteries. You can run a 2s1p 5000mAh Lipo all day running both rx and ignition.

hidaven

can I hire you to cover mine in fabric!?!?!?!?! hate the wrinkles : ((
Why not just put 2 5s 5000's (lipos) in series and be done with it??

I get 13+ min flights on my setup.....

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

It will fit but it is really hard to get the cap on the plug! I too was sure it did not fit, but after removing the clip and opening the gap on the clip a little, and reinstalling on the cap, I was able (just) to get the cap over the plug.

lumpy649

My Feedback: (75)

Hi everyone,
I've gone back to working on my cub after ignoring it for a week or so. I fitted the wing/struts on tonite and I am wondering if anyone else encountered the following problem.  It seems either the bracket for the struts was drilled wrong ( hole pattern too close) or the angle cut on the trailing edge of the forward wing strut was off. It interferred with the rear strut where to the point where the rear one had to be forced into positon causing binding. I couldn't fiqure out what was wrong so ground off @ the trailing edge of the front strut.  Any comments?

Thanks,
Gary

piperfan59

My Feedback: (13)

You can still get wrinkles with fabric covering. You will always have wrinkles at some time due to humid or dry conditions. These are not aluminum framed models. In humid conditions, the wood swells up and dry the wood dries out and shrinks, were by creating wrinkles. Get an iron and hot air gun and try removing your wrinkles. The I hate wrinkles statement makes the weenie sound really loud. WAW

bsbauman

I cant blame yall for suggesting Lipos, but part of the reasoning behind the A123 configuration is that they all fit entirely concealed in the 4.25 x 4.25 x 3 inch space between the dash and the firewall. That, and the fact that in it's stock form it required the removal of 8 screws to get the batteries out. With A123, they are not volatile so I can charge with the batteries in the plane through a port. It is not ideal, but in theory I liked the concept.

I have begun to make alterations and now have the front seat on velcro so that it is removable without taking out an additional 4 screws. But I still would like to replace the 4 screws under the dash with magnets before going to lipos. I think I can manage two squatty 4s or 5s batteries in there, but will likely be 4000mah or less...

The light in the 2nd half of this video is better:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11MJjddVDYM[/youtube]



I also took a few pics today I will post tomorrow... they do a far better job of showing off the stitching.

hidaven

Just my opinion here but a removable tray with thumb screws in the front is an easy way to get the lipos in and out. Also you need to dremmel out some width under the dashboard. Most of us fit 2 4s5000's or in my case, 2 5s 5000's side by side with no problem at all. You can finish the sides as nicely as you want. PM me for pics, and include your email. You really don't want smaller lipos in here. Is stay above 4400's for sure with optimal at 5000 mah. I get a nice 13-14 min flight on 10s 5000 mah. The longer the runtime the better IMO as you can do 2 shorter flights or one longer one without the hassle of removing the battery tray. Be careful of magnets, thumb screws are safer especially dealing with the weight of these lipos. Lastly, the 10s setup gives me about 62 amps and 2600 watts wide open if I need it. Mostly I fly at 1/3 throttle using about 15 or so amps and 500-600 watts. Comes down cooler than it went up....power 160 motor swinging a 18x10 scale xoar wooden prop.

lumpy649

My Feedback: (75)

Hi All, I finally got to maiden my Cub last night. What a sweet flyer it is. It left the ground all on it's own, wasn't prepared for such a short take off roll. Much better than my 1/5 scale Sig Cub. I'm very pleased with the Power 160/10s setup. I need to work on my camera installation next, this is going to be a fun and relaxing plane. Thanks to all who offered advice and input on this thread.

lumpy649

hidaven

Great lumpy. What size prop are you running? I'm ok a 18x10 soar highly reccomended. Plane flies lik a sim....lol. Try the 6 inch inflatable Dubro as the icing on the cake......super smooth landings every time.

lumpy649

My Feedback: (75)

I'm using a 18 x 10 Xoar and 6" Dubros, as recommended on this thread. These boards are great, saves a lot of trial and error plus $$$$. Time to go flying!