timothy thompson

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thanks . It took 1 hr to find pics of a frag bomb. thoses were easy to make now i have to make 2 500lbs bombs

KenVC

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Tim,

In regards to the air tank snafu...if ordering from Tower, they had the right system noted on their website. I ordered the system they said was right for the Top Flite B25 and guess what? It was.

timothy thompson

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TIM KRYPTON SAID IT WAS FIXED im still working on the bomb bay . more pics tomorrow. im a teacher so im really tired now

mike-rc

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Hello Jon,
Yes, I still have some left. Send a paypal payment for $10.00 to [email protected] or mail to Mike Krug 7 Carey Place, Port Washington, NY 11050. I don't know what Top Flite was thinking with those wooden arms. Did they really think they would hold together. The kit is great, but that is a major flaw. If I did not have a way to make metal ones at my disposal I would be very frustrated.

KenVC

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Hi Mike,

I also sent a Paypal payment, to your account, for one of the arms. Hope you still have one available. Thanks.

Ken VC

norm

Regarding the Air tank,

For your own well being the Medium air tank is what is needed. You will cycle only once correctly with the small air tank. I know I'm there now. There is too much in there with 3 levers & 5 doors + the retracts, you need pressure and air supply. Instal it like Krypton suggest on top od the main wing tube inside.

krproton

Hi mike-rc.
I've been following your postings about those aluminum main gear door levers. I have to compliment you--those look nice. I don't know exactly what to say about us (me) thinking the wood levers would hold up. I don't think I should try to defend every single criticism we get on this kit, but I don't want to bury my head in the sand and ignore your complaint either.

Did you already breake the wood levers? If so, do you think you could explain how, so I can troubleshoot?

I guess the only other thing I can say is that we've cycled the gear doors in the shop many times with those wood levers and had many flights on B-25s with them too. I did break one lever, but that was on the second or third flight when I had to land the plane in the grass with the gear retracted (because one of the gear was stuck due to friction in the moving parts of the Robart gear itself). The doors on one of the nacelles broke off thus breaking the lever with it. I actually fixed the lever by laminating on a piece of 1/64" plywood to it and flew the plane a few more times using that lever until I replaced it with a new one.

The only thing I might be concerned about with those aluminum levers is the metal-to-metal contact you will have between the lever and the strut of the Robart gear. Keep an eye on the strut and make sure the sharp edges of the lever don't wear a notch into the strut. It will probably be fine, but monitor that situation.

For anybody else concerned about the wood levers, one way you could harden them would be to saturate them with thin CA. Add drops of thin CA to the edges where it will soak all the way in--do this with the lever out of the plane of course! [sm=rolleyes.gif] Allow the CA to harden, then use 400-grit sandpaper to sand them smooth again.

Well, I am sorry you are disappointed with the wood levers and I hope you get many good flights on your B-25--wood or aluminum levers!

krproton

Normand,

we get three to four cycles with the gear on our show model B-25 that has the small tank recommended for this plane. At first, in the shop, we got only one or two cycles, but after the plane had been flown a few times the mechanisms seemed to "break in" and now we get more cycles. I also pressurize my tank to about 120 - 130 psi.

krproton

Ahhhhhh, whew! [sm=angel_smile.gif]

(When did you place your order? We had them fix the listing the minute I found out about my error in the manual which was about Wednesday I think.)

krproton

Mike, another way to add panel lines to MonoKote is to cut them from MonoKote. This takes skill and patience and I've done it a few times before (did I just give my self a compliment?). You can use a straightedge, or one of those, I forget what it's called...but Top Flite makes it to cut narrow strips of covering that you wrap around a wood dowel. Cut the strips about 1/64" to 1/32" wide--if cutting them with a straightedge, peel off the backing first (so you won't have to peel it off each and every strip!).

If you go the MonoKote route, I guess I would recommend using flat black for the panel lines--don't use anything glossy.

Well, there's another idea for you anyway.

Tim

krproton

Hi kochj.
I played with steering the plane on the ground a few times by separately varying the engine speed. It ended up being more of a novelty and was really no big deal.

The way we had our test models set up, and the way my radio is set up on my B-25, is that I can decouple the throttles with a switch on the Tx. With the switch one way the engines are mixed together and with the switch the other way the left (throttle) stick controls the left engine and the right slider controls the right engine. That way, we cold simulate engine out scenarios in flight.

So on the ground I can decouple the engines and steer the plane around, but it's too much hassle and not really what we intended this mix to do.

I guess though, I can't really answer your question because you wanted to find out how to have the throttles mixed to the rudders. If you had a radio with enough programmable mixing I'm sure you could do this, but it depends on exactly what radio you have. What you should do is look at your manual or call the manufacturers of your radio and ask them how to do the mix.

On the other hand, I don't think you want the plane to turn any sharper that it already does with the control throws provided. This could get you into a bad situation (too much bank or yaw?) or at least, if you turn the plane too sharp, it would not appear to be scale.

Just thought I'd shed a little light on your question.

Tim

mike-rc

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Hey Tim,
Thanks for the reply. I want to tell you first that this is the best ARF I have put together, and I have put together alot!
I think the main problem with the arms breaking is that the clevis on the outboard arm does not clear the end of the air cylinder on the retract when it swings down. You can see what I mean in the picture I posted. The addendum said to move the retracts all the way back when mounting them. Maybe they should have been mounted as far forward as possible.
Thanks for the tips about the panel lines. I have one of those strip makers, I have not used it in about 10 years, maybe I can finally use it for something again.
I have a 14MZ and tried mixing the rudder to the throttles on a DH-88 Comet. The comet did not have dual rudders and was a tail dragger. I was concerned about the plane pulling left on takeoff and the rudder would not have been effective until it got up some speed. It works for that, but I turned the mixing off once I got into the air. I dont think it will be necessary on the B-25.
Thanks, Mike

krproton

Ten-four Mike.

You are correct, moving the retract all the way back may cause interference between the clevis on the lever and the back of the cylinder. The reason we put in the addendum to mount the gear all the way back was so the strut would clear the fiberglass nacelle a little better when extended (there is already a small, half-round notch in the nacelle and we didn't want people to have to cut it any deeper). I posted a suggestion somewhere near the beginning of this thread to use a washer or wood spacer under the lever to move it farther away from the bottom of the cylinder if the clevis interfered with the cylinder (like yours did).

As far as the B-25 pulling to one side or the other on takeoff, this really isn't an issue. I think the most important thing is to get your nose steering trimmed so the model tracks straight down the runway. Small trim changes will probably be required from day-to-day as the wind direction changes, so practice runs are a good idea before each day's flying session. Otherwise, the rudders are plenty effective at controlling yaw during takeoff. I always takeoff on low rates--otherwise, the nose wheel is too sensitive and I over control.

Stay in touch and thanks!

Tim

Hellcat716

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I also sent you a PM several day's ago for a set of levers but got no response. I will send you a paypal payment today for a set of levers. Thanks.

mike-rc

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Sorry, I thought I replied to your email with the payment info. send the payment and they will go out in the mail on Monday.
Thanks, Mike

kochj

nO PROBLEM mIKE...
I loked at the water slide edetail option.... That seems to be easy and you are limitless when it comes ot design or stencils ect...

alans

Hmmm !
I will be following this thread for advice on Air Cylinder capacity, I fly my cessna 310 with the small tank and get several cycles but it does not have all those gear doors, levers etc. Tim is it ok to put 130 psi in the tank, the instructions give a warning max 100 psi !!

The good news is that so far except for a few things the kit looks very good. If i was being picky a couple of things bug me, firstly some of the holes cut on the outer wing for the hinges were not cut properly and you can clearly see them from the top of the model, what makes it worse is they are not all the same.
Secondly if you follow the instructions and cut of 3mm or 1.5mm from the Nylon ball links you will need to throw them away as in my case they were too short. I purchased new ones and had to add a couple of washers to make them fit, I also did not get anything telling me about the corrections needed in installing the gear hinges. I fitted them as per original instructions and they are a little stiff.

I also hate the pilots supplied, they look very tacky. I know there is not a lot of room in there but i must try and find some better ones. Does anyone plan on using other pilots, if so please share them with us.

So far i am pretty happy but have a long way to go, I run in the 2 OS 70 surpass engines today out of the plane ready to be installed now.

norm

Mike Rc & Tim (Krypton)

Stripes & NOZE STEERING...

Well I'm back with the Gyro again...another use for this device on the rudder is that it also keep the plane tracking straight as a bullet down the runway to obtain the fastest ground roll b4 rotating the aircraft for take off. I learned this from Jet guys taking off dual turbine @ 100mph from a 15 feet wide runway!

About the stripes...do not bust your B@##$ cutting monokote, just go to your nearest speed shop or even Wall Mart and buy the "car stripes..." they make them in all width and color and they hold well.

For myself I'm depressed as it will be the last nice week-end this year here in montreal and My B-25 still requires 2 to 3 days of prep. Well next year I guess. I hold responsible the Top Flite Guys for this (Ha Ha) But please Krypton do not get offended because Along with Mike and what i've said before in this thread, This is by far the best ARF I built so far (23 total not all crashed 19 still flying).

Again a good round of applaud to the Top Flite Guys as they put together an ARF that is really happening and really impressive. The B-25 is the subject right now. Most members at our club will be at the field tomorow sunday to take a look at my B-25 (with tape holding the details as it is not yet complete)

I found a solution, I'll bring it in Florida this winter and fly it from there!!!

Jon Wise

Mike, My wife will get a check in the mail today. I have everything to start my B25 except the plane. It will hopefully be here in the next week or 2. I'm confined to bed for another 2-3 weeks so I couldn't start it til the doc let's me start walking again anyway. Thanks Jon Wise Anchorage, AK.

timothy thompson

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more pics frag Mark 7 bomb and bay pics. the light is bad today and flash makes them too bright. challenge will be to plumb all the scale hydraulic and electrical cables and build the 500 lbs bombs

WHMC

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Is it Winter yet?

timothy thompson

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more pics this section is removable to acess rx and lipo batts leaving the bomb bay for scale work

mike-rc

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hey Tim (thomson)
That bomb bay looks great! i would be afraid to fly my plane after putting that much work into it. I think I will build it and fly it a few times and if it survives and flies well I will go back and add more details. Keep posting your pictures so I will have references later!
Mike
Hey Tim(krypton)
I'll trade you a couple hundred levers for a Staggerwing!

Michel

Norm

What time will you be at the field .

krproton

Ha ha. Nice try Mike, but thanks!

Hey, if it was up to me, I'd just GIVE you a Staggerwing, but it's not up to me (and if they allowed me to do stuff like that our company wouldn't be in business any longer!).

Tim (and that's krproton--as in KR Proton--not "krypton!" LOL