el_xero

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Hey Dreamtime.

You're right the stinger extensions would do that (you could trim them a little), hm but kinda like the look of a slightly longer pipe. I'm very glad to hear that there is only minimal clean up with the DLE even during break-in. That's huge break from my 25% glow fuel mix and super messy clean up.

So winter coming your way now? So soon? Didn't it just go away recently? I have no clue what it's like to have seasons like that. Doesn't it bum you out? Right now its a crispy 30 degrees centigrade + on some days over here, high winds, making for some rather interesting landings and take offs.

Dog with a bone? haha RC guys always have lovely descriptions man cracks me up some times!
That sucks about the muffler, too bad it's not a good idea to weld the thing into place haha. I guess the wrap around pits is likely the better way to go then, I think I saw one somewhere not too expensive. I might check it out for the Extra 300S when I finally get around to building her.

Well now! I'm very happy to hear that about the hitec's low current draw decent power and ability to handle high voltage (though I dare not go beyond the A123 6.6v 2300mah life pack I've built Its really comforting to hear all of this) I've already installed them into my wings and made my
extensions for the wings and tail sections still have a little bit of tinkering to do before I dump in the engine and fire her up for the first time. I'm tickled I tell you hehe.

What Rx are you using that handles all that juice man?

I've only got my Airtronics at 6v max I think and a few FrSkys HV's which I think can take that kind of punishment.
I would have breathed a heaping helping of relief had that happened to me 8.4v? crazy lol Glad to hear it turned out alright though.

I'm only worried about the AUW of my plane now, I've got a feeling I won't be doing any vertical with the DLE20. hmm.

Dreamtime

el-xero -- the wrap around pitts muffler will be even worse than stock as there will be even more torque placed on the bolts due it's shape. The problem is just a pure physical fact related to rear mufflers, no matter what the setting. I will get it sorted, will just take a bit more time! I had an 8 channel Sbus Frsky receiver that took all that voltage -- good old Chinese .....

superduke1

Hi Dreamtime, Thanks for uploading the pictures of your cowl cut outs I have completed my DLE 20 RA install. I liked your idea of the air dam to suck out the hot air I have also done one. I did 3 layers of fiberglass over a 45 degree piece of aluminium then bonded it to the cowl I also reinforced the bottom of the cowl with an additional layer of glass due to the large cut outs . I have run the choke out the bottom of the cowl via a bell crank.

Dreamtime what Hitec servos are you running I'm using HS645MG all round.

Hoping to run the DLE tomorrow for the first time. I had to place the receiver battery pack behind the servo tray to get the correct C/G I'm starting with 5 3/4 inch. Ignition battery is mounted on top of the motor box I may have to mount this under the tank if I want to bring the C/G further aft.

ahicks

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Another nice one! So much cleaner install is available with the rear exhaust engine!

el_xero

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I see what you mean, makes sense. Nature of the beast I suppose then. Did you use blue loctite or red? You could also try using lock washers also, that might help to keep them in place.

I love Frsky radios I converted my Airtronics and most of my other buddies radios for use with them. Have never had one issue with those.

el_xero

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With regards to the air dam, is it really necessary to have that down scope? Wouldn't a simple cut out home suffice? I've cut out a small "V" in mine before handing it over to Chris to spray up for me never even though about a down scope but I'm not so sure it's really needed.

el_xero

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Very cool setup very clean thumbs up!

mach2

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Are you using the red high temp loctite?

Dreamtime

Very nicely done superduke -- I also glassed the bottom of the cowl. I made the down scoop by cutting a slit, folding down a piece of the cowl and then glassing this whole section in place. I was going to do your method exactly but had no aluminium at the time. Again -- lovely work. Good idea with the choke.

For those interested -- here is a link to why I did the airdam -- this will answer your question el_xero. : http://www.prme.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=148.

Hi Mach -- I did use the red Loctite (but not the Loctite brand) I had some cheap no name brand. Have since got hold of genuine Loctite 263 and did her up yesterday with the Permatex gasket maker as well. Will run her up on the ground this weekend and see what happens, but so far I have only found this happening in the air -- probably that I fly much linger than watch things ticking over on the ground!

PS -- I also added some extra glass around each cowl screw hole -- I noted that that these holes were working wider quite quickly.

teckbot

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Hey superduke1, nice work on the cowl. i always like a clean setup like yours. Funny how in a parallel universe i set mine up "almost" like yours, where as i just cut a slot back from the muffler to accommodate the spark plug wire. I like your hole idea better. I have had some thought about venting towards the rear, but i will definitely do something about it after seeing yours and reading the attached links.
Now as far as running the motor. In the last two days i ran mine for about an hour in our backyard while the plane was tied to our big tree. Very very impressed how easy and well it started and ran. Right even before starting i changed the oem ring for a Frank Bowman ring, using NGK instead of oem spakplug, and using BelRay MC-1 synthetic oil. Easy easy hand starts with only a couple of flips.

Dreamtime

Hi super duke -- I just noticed your question regarding servos -- I have the Hitec 5625 (really just the next upgrade from the 645's trading a bit of torque for extra speed. If I recall the 5625 are at least 1/3 faster which is a difference that I personally feel having used 645 before. The 645's remain a great tried and tested servo.
PS for teckbot -- the DLE is a pleasure -- I usually need about 6 flips on choke and then usually 2 to get started, but it has never failed to start. It is so nice to go to the starting area of the pitts knowing that I will soon be flying while others are still hammering away trying to get their planes started. This engine gets looser quite quickly and now mine flips over really easily. I also went straight to the NGK but the Bowman ring gets a bit expensive here in New Zealand.

superduke1

Hi Dreamtime HS-5652 are good servos I've been looking at them for a 30cc project. Has everyone been making cut outs in the top of the cowl for turning. I started the DLE for the first time yesterday with no issues. I'll take it out to the field to complete the engine run in process. One of the best parts of this hobby is seeing how other people setup their planes, what ideas they have and how problems that arise are overcome.

Dreamtime

Here is what I did. I started really small and slowly increased the size until I could reliably see the adjusting screws and get a screw driver to stay in place with the whole plane shaking like a wet dog. Adjustments are so small that I need to see that tiny screw driver movement on the low speed needle. And in full sunlight small apertures are impossible to see through. Yes, I also just ran her up to get the needles rich enough not to stall and get a nice break in midrange burble and then all breaking in was, and still is, in the air.

mach2

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I do just what Dreamtime does on my gas planes. My holes are just a little smaller, but not much. Just enough to get a little screwdriver in...

ahicks

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I use CA to hold a short length of brass tube to each of the needles, allowing for much easier centering of the screwdriver. Works great, allows for adjustment while the engine is running. An idea I read about since, is taking that short length of brass tube, and gluing it to the screwdriver instead?

eldad007

I did it again, I bought the 70" revolver again....
Which engine will be the best for fast, aerobatic, freestyle revolver:
1. Dle 20 cc
2. Os 120 ax
3. Os 95 ax
4. Webra 120 with tune pipe
eldad

ahicks

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Geez, if you can put up with glow, the piped Webra 120 would be a blast. As I much prefer gas nowadays, my vote has to go with the DLE - and it's well know performance attributes when used in this plane.

el_xero

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I'd say you'd be happy with any one of those engines, but seems you want speed so the bigger ones might be the way to go. I only know about the 120AX as I had one! loved it for as long as the plane lasted with it haha

superduke1

Has anyone had any issues with there wheel pants I have only 12 flights on my Revolver and the pants are all cracked. I do fly off grass but it is well keep.

ahicks

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Yes, I fly off grass as well. I felt bad for my originals, so I replaced them. Though I have to admit they're reasonably priced, and they do enhance the way the plane looks, but I didn't get 3 flights on those and they were split. Now I look at the cracks and patches as signs of character. The more they got, the better they get....

A little grass hangin off one side definitely make them fly better!

Dreamtime

Yep, I fly off grass and it did not take long for those cracks to appear, and most landings are reasonable. I re glassed mine on the inside especially around the blind-nut area, and so far things are much better, but really those cracks just add character.

Sloviper

Im just putting one together. Will power it with a saito 125 and savox 0252 mg servos all around except the throttle. Im kinds worried about the langing gear since i hear its pretty weak. What did you guys do to strengthen it?

ahicks

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Go back through this string looking for pics that show alum or some type covering over the joint between the bottom of the firewall and the plywood that the gear bolts to. Been discussed quite a few times, so it shouldn't be hard to find one of them.

Some guys use a piece of angle alum. (extrusion), maybe 1.5" on a side, some use a piece of sturdy sheet alum. (like roof flashing) bent with a 90 degree bend. Others have done a pretty nice job with glass. MUCH easier to do this prior to ripping the gear out, and almost everyone ends up doing something like this in the end. Really stupid design that should have been changed a long time ago - or kits shipped with a reinforcement like the one described with pics and directions to install.

RoyR

I read about the weak landing gear when I got mine. About the second or third landing I landed long and when I made a sharp turn to keep from running off the end of the runway the gear came off. I just added epoxy to all the joints and haven't had a problem since. So I guess my solution was to wait until it broke then fixed it. It was really just a poor glue job from the factory, and when it was off it was easy to see what needed done.

Sloviper

I have both os 120 ax and a saito 125. Im kinda deciding to go with a saito and maybe try the os later. Has any of you guys flown with and od these two engines before?