ShuttleAU

I use a short metal rod , ball links either end. My setup is similar to the photo in post 7350 except I use an extension on the throttle shaft on the carb. Then I have a straight line from throttle to servo.

I wil try and upload a photo tonight.


BC

warbird72

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I have the revolver 70. With super tigre 90. Wow if the larger one fly anything like that. My goodness! Love this bird.get one. Get two! Fly like a pattern plane. On rails.

mach2

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I'm sure it's not really an issue with 2.4, especially if it's a setup that dampens the metal rods. But I thought I'd bring up the thought anyway. I'm of the opinion it's better to be safe than sorry.

I guess I'll go ahead and mention that I've also read that it's not "recommended" to run a servo that close to the ignition. But again, it's probably a non issue nowadays...

ahicks

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Still a lot of respect for the "old rules" here, but I do what I need to do. Then I test to make sure it's OK? I'm much more careful during those first range checks and high speed taxi runs prior to the actual first flight..... looking for any unexplained "wiggle" that might be evidence of a radio that isn't as locked in as it should be? So far, so good. I haven't had to rearrange anything yet!

Stone17

I put the cowling on the plane last night and now she need a battery in the rear. I forgot about the cowling. Opps.

I CG the plane with my finger and it hold for a couple of sec but fall after that. The tail drop or the front drops. I had this problem with two other plane.

What should I do?

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I think you're close enough if it'll sit there for a second. If you'd like to see it sit and stay, you might try marking the plane on top of the wing and hold it upside down?

Stone17

The plane was upside down and I marked the wings.
I hate CG big planes.

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

I set my cg same way. Mark the top of the wing's and measure back to the location and place masking tape. I then draw a line at the measurement. Then flip the plane over. Upside down. Rest it on my pointers. Works great.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Stone17 - this plane is pretty forgiving around the CG. If you're close you're probably ok. Can always move the CG later by moving the receiver battery around.

Warren

My Feedback: (72)

Just pick it up by the wing tube for balance - That's at about 5 3/4"...

Stone17

I found my problem. The ceiling fan was blowing the plane down. Rookie Move.

ahicks

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Well, you're to be congratulated on having the kahunas to admit to that! Gad you figured it out.

superduke1

Hi Dreamtime, It looks like I have had the same problem as you with rear exhaust 20. I was flying and the engine stopped on inspection after landing I noticed that the muffler was just hanging in the cowl I had lost both mounting bolts the bolts must have been loose for a little while as it has damaged the mating face of the muffler.

Dreamtime

Oh Dear Superduke. That is a shame. You can get replacement bolts and just get some Permatex copper gasket maker. Hopefully the bolt thread is still good. I fixed mine at last with the gasket maker which sorts out the problem of uneven mating surfaces, and then genuine Loctite (262) I think, and it has been rock solid since. As I noted previously, it is the simple geometry of a rear mounted muffler which generates this problem, with most of the engine vibration being side to side this puts a lot of torque on those bolts. A side mounted muffler will simply shake up and down in unison with the motor vibration. I never thought of it, but this is possibly why so few manufacturers offer a rear mount muffler. Unfortunately an after market wrap around pitts then adds another $100 or so to the side mount. As regards the DLE, the loctite and gasket maker seems to be a permanent solution.

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

What I do to secure my muffler bolts!! First I drill a hole in the socket head part of the bolt. Big enough for wire to go threw. I then use 5 3/2 wheel colors. To get the correct spacing. I use 3 on each bolt. I then put ultra silicon on the bolt and in the bolt holes. I don't use gaskets. Put silicon on flange and snug up both bolts evenly. Let set up for about hour. Then tighten up your bolts and pull wire threw the drilled holes in your blots. Wrap it and twist it You're done. And it will not come lose or leak. I have done this for years. I have also handed the idea to other club members. Who are still flying with out issues. Hope this helps everyone with loosening mufflers....

el_xero

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er.. i got lost after drilling the socket head.. pics you got pics?

mach2

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Red loctite. And make sure they are tight. I've not had any issues. I've used both RTV silicone and the stock gaskets. Both work fine. Anyone else had luck with the same? Or not...

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

I have no pics on my phone. But just drill a hole in each bolt! About half way down from where you stick the Allen wrench into the bolt. Im going flying today. I will snap you some pics later on. Thanks. Hope this helps you out.

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

The wheel colors are spacers that go on the bolts. So the head sticks out of the muffler where the welded sleeves are. That way you can wrap your wire.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I'm with the Permatex copper gasket maker crowd, or at least something along those lines? I've used black as well. 2 tips. First, don't gob it on. It's going to squeeze out anyway, and you don't want that "ooze" blocking your exhaust port. Second, and the reason I'm saying anything, is that I've found that re-tightening the mounting bolts after the first flight to be critical.

I've tried red Loctite on muffler bolts, but never had much success with it, even after carefully cleaning the threads.

I have a 30cc Syssa engine (another rear exhaust design) and most of us with the earlier engines had a terrible time keeping the mufflers in place after having run a couple gallons of gas through them. Turned out the muffler design was allowing the "can" section of the muffler to collapse. Wasn't strong enough to handle the torque of the bolts.The manf. came out with an updated design and it's been a solid setup since. Point being, I agree the rear exhaust design is more of a pain to keep in place, and warrants extra attention when mounting them.

They will "fret" the alum. mating faces if run while loose, rounding them slightly, making it even more difficult to get them right. If you know it's loose, don't run it, not even "one more flight"! The surfaces can be dressed by those willing to be very careful about keeping it dead flat. Clean the surfaces and paint them black with magic marker. Then run your file over the surface lightly to identify the high spots, then proceed to carefully remove them. Check your progress frequently by repeating the magic marker step! Do both sides (muffler and exhaust port). Then have another go at mounting them. Suggest keeping a wary eye on it until you're confident it's holding. -Al

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

Lock tight can work. I found it to strip out threads to. The copper silicone works very well in conjunction of my bolt method. I just took some pics of my set up. I will load them when I get home. Unless someone here knows ho to load the pic from s3.

RoyR

Maybe I'm confused, but do you never intend on removing your mufflers? Red Loctite will permanently lock the bolts on, or cause damage when you to take them off, unless the heat disintegrates it or something. I have only used blue Loctite on any part of my engine.

I haven't really had a problem with mufflers coming off in years, even without using Loctite, but I have found a solution for many bolts on the airplanes that come loose when you don't want them to, but you may want to remove later. I have used this on cowlings, cockpits, wing bolts, mufflers, everything that I have at one time lost a bolt on, and it works for me. Wrap a layer of teflon tape around the treads. It doesn't stick, but adds enough friction to keep the bolts secure until you are ready to remove them. If it is still a loose fit, wrap two or three wraps around the bolt.
Don't knock it until you try it.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

The heat of the exhaust works just like the heat you might apply to get the red to release.

RoyR

I thought something like that. I really have no experience using Red Except on my car to make sure it wouldn't come off.
I've always been afraid I would need to remove again and end up ruining part of my engine. I wasn't even aware you used heat to remove red Loctite.

Dreamtime

Well El-xero -- your 'situation' has lead to some interesting posts. I asked a car mechanic friend what they do -- he works with every type of engine from generators to trucks. Basically everyone here is right and all methods are worth a trial it seems. He does use gasket maker most of the time. His first choice is the hole in the bolt head and wiring. He has also commented on the Teflon tape, and I know some club members use it with a lot of success. He will use red Loctite -- and yes, he has stripped thread using it. Interestingly he did not know about using high heat to loosen the red Loctite. This is my first experience with a loose muffler and so far the Loctite and gasket maker is perfect