RC Help
03-05-2016, 08:10 PM
#1
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RC Help
So I have this traxxes battery and charger but the the charger lead/plug got ripped off, so is there any way to charge the battery without having the lead/plug but still have the battery and charge.
03-06-2016, 08:38 AM
#2
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No. You will either need to buy a new charger or solder the plug/wire back on. As far as a new charger goes, I suggest this one.
http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...attery-charger
http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...attery-charger
03-06-2016, 09:07 AM
#3
If you plan to be in the hobby for any length of time, a soldering iron/soldering station together with a "third hand" and wire strippers should be a top priority on a must purchase list for situations that come up as you described.
03-08-2016, 06:47 AM
#4
Soldering is a skill. One you should learn if you really dig RC. And you need a good soldering iron to work on those Traxxas plugs. Once you do one, and get it right, you'll go, "Oh!" and it won't be so intimidating.
Use a small flat blade screwdriver to push the gold connectors from the front edge out of the back of the housing. (careful you don't stab yourself while doing this) Once you have the tines out, use a hot soldering iron to remove the old piece of wire and old solder. (I like to do this on a piece of wood I don't mind burning) Note that there is a line on the end of the tine you do not want to cross. So the new wire end has to be stripped pretty short with only 2-3mm of wire exposed. "Tin" the wire by heating it with the iron and adding a little solder to it. The solder should be "sucked into" the wire by heat, not blobbed onto the surface. (Google "How to solder wire properly") Now position the wire end on the tine, making sure it does not go past "the line" and apply the iron. Ideally, it's best to touch BOTH items you are soldering with the iron tip, but in this case that's nearly impossible. Heat the tine with the iron, then quickly but carefully place the wire onto the tine then the iron on the wire, give it a sec to heat, then apply the solder to the wire, not the tip of the iron. The solder should flow into the wire then onto the tine. Once that occurs, remove the heat while something still holds the wire down while the solder cools. Be careful not to move anything at this time. You want the solder joint to look smooth and shine-y, not dull and cracked. If it comes out looking dull and cracked, that is a "cold" solder joint. Start over. Once the wire is properly soldered to the tine, let it cool, then push it into the appropriate side of the housing making sure the tine is right side up. It should "click" into place. Repeat on the other side. If you are doing this on a battery, take care to make sure the exposed wires/connectors do not touch!! Do one at a time, leaving the other in the connector housing.
Use a small flat blade screwdriver to push the gold connectors from the front edge out of the back of the housing. (careful you don't stab yourself while doing this) Once you have the tines out, use a hot soldering iron to remove the old piece of wire and old solder. (I like to do this on a piece of wood I don't mind burning) Note that there is a line on the end of the tine you do not want to cross. So the new wire end has to be stripped pretty short with only 2-3mm of wire exposed. "Tin" the wire by heating it with the iron and adding a little solder to it. The solder should be "sucked into" the wire by heat, not blobbed onto the surface. (Google "How to solder wire properly") Now position the wire end on the tine, making sure it does not go past "the line" and apply the iron. Ideally, it's best to touch BOTH items you are soldering with the iron tip, but in this case that's nearly impossible. Heat the tine with the iron, then quickly but carefully place the wire onto the tine then the iron on the wire, give it a sec to heat, then apply the solder to the wire, not the tip of the iron. The solder should flow into the wire then onto the tine. Once that occurs, remove the heat while something still holds the wire down while the solder cools. Be careful not to move anything at this time. You want the solder joint to look smooth and shine-y, not dull and cracked. If it comes out looking dull and cracked, that is a "cold" solder joint. Start over. Once the wire is properly soldered to the tine, let it cool, then push it into the appropriate side of the housing making sure the tine is right side up. It should "click" into place. Repeat on the other side. If you are doing this on a battery, take care to make sure the exposed wires/connectors do not touch!! Do one at a time, leaving the other in the connector housing.
Last edited by EXT2Rob; 03-08-2016 at 07:06 AM.
