RC-Captain

I posted this in the beginners forum only because it can be beneficial to a beginner.

I have four glow starter plugs and the only one I can depend on is the one I put an ALKALINE battery in to get the plug to light. The reason I don't like it , is because it's not reliable for hand starting. My Hobbico starter still charges but the tip wore out and no longer stay on the plug. The TH one didn't work from day one and I over charged the darn thing so it 's garbage. Then the dynomite starter had a meter which broke and I can only use the battery it came with for a few cranks of the prop.

So there is the dilemma I want to know what you use how long has it lasted and will it stand up to my hand starting rituals ?

the_madgenius

rc-fiend, i too have had problems with those little glow drivers, and eventually threw the lot out, and invested in a power panel for the flight box, operated by a gelcell 12 volt battery. Since then i have never had a problem, as the power panel has an outlet for the glow driver with a meter and variable control on the heat. I just checked my logs and the power panel has started my aircraft 8326 times, no problems at all. So it will be a help to invest in one to fit your flight box.
Bill:- down-under in Australia

Mode One

I had a McDaniel's Ni-Starter, which I won in the mid 1980s. It finally quit locking onto the glow plug this year and is finally shot. I now have one that you pull a ring up and it surrounds the plug and when you release the ring, it locks onto the plug. So far it is great. I am still using the McDaniel Ni-Starter's little charger to charge the new plug lighter.

I also have a Northeast Electronics Glow Plug Driver, which I built from a kit in the late 70s. This unit still operates, but I like the little rechargeable plug lighters better.

I really haven't had any problems with the drivers/lighters I've used, over the years.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Complete agreement, except for the flight log part. I refuse to use glow starters, they don't provide a consistant enough glow. A power panel is way more reliable for hand starting engines. I keep my flight box on the left side of the plane (when looking at it from the front). The glow connector wire is extra long and I run it under the wing and then over the top. This keeps the slack away from the prop.

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

I have a magnum starter that wore out the battery. I recently went to batteries plus and bought a new nicad for it. It is the best on I have found so far. I used all of the others and they werent dependable.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

I have a couple of old ones that were my Dad's, I really have no idea how old they are but I've had them about 10 yrs. One is called a "Kwik Start" by Dubro, & the other is a "Hot-Shot" by Hobbico. I have the wall charger for them & I can also charge them straight off the power panel of my field box. They both still work great, never a problem & they seem to hold a charge forever. The little "Kwik Start" is my favorite though.

IBrakeForNobody

My Feedback: (16)

I bought a [link=http://sonictronics.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=16152&cat=305&page=1]Ni-Starter by Sonic Tronics[/link] a while ago and it still serves me well. My instructor has one from about 25 years ago and it still works excellent. I was thinking about one of those twist locking glow plug clips that you plug into a power panel, but sometimes my plane dies while taxiing or something and I like to keep it in my pocket so I can just flip start it on the side of the taxiway.

Hossfly

As madgenius said, power panels are the way to go. Those little glo-drivers with an under-voltage nicad are OK for summer use on sport models. I learned long ago, when I raced pylon, that a little "flood" on the start line could easily cost you a heat. With the power panel one could turn up the glo-heat and get an engine going.

I keep a DuBro one for a back-up but its the alkaline batt one. That does work plus it's the 'loner' for those that can never remember to charge their starter driver prior to coming out to the field. A field box with the detachable starting panel is a big help.

Red B.

IMHO, a simple 1.2V NimH or NiCd D-sized cell (4 Ah - 10Ah) cell with solder tags soldered to a simple [link=http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=DUB337/101.0.5161.5219.0.0.0]DuBro No 337 Kwik Klip[/link] glow plug connector using the supplied 30" cable (which can be shortened to suit) is about the ideal solution.
I previously used a 12 V starter battery with a power panel and a Sullivan starter. Nowadays my equipment has been reduced to the above glow igniter and a chicken stick.

/Red B.

Dr1Driver

I finally trashed my McDaniel lighter w/ meter after over 10 years of faithful service. The tip was almost worn out and the battery wouldn't hold much of a charge any longer. I bought a new Dubro. We'll see how long this one lasts.

Dr.1

Mode One

Do some of you really think that your way is "THE BEST"? If a power panel is "THE BEST", then why are some of us still using a Ni-starter type glow plug igniter? If Ni-starters are "THE BEST", then why are some of you still using power panels.

Does everything in this hobby have to be some type of contest? The best airplanes are (fill in the blank)! (Blank) engines are the best engines! My (JR, Futaba, HiTec, Airtronics or other) radio is the best!

I'm not saying my way is the best, it's only the way I do somethings and I may even use multiple ways of doing them. In the end, your way of doing something may truly be the best; however, it likely is only the best way for you!

Not trying to cause a "Ruckus"; but, Like they say; "Think outside the box"!

RC-Captain

I understand what you are saying but disagree. There has to be a BEST method for igniting the glow plug. The best method in my oppinion is the method that causes the least problems. The power panel may be that method but already I am thinking about how I would lug the thing 75 feet from where I park to where I take off with out pulling a hamstring .

Your point is taking well , but life is a competition in itself. IE school sports, report cards, JOBS ,making money, etc.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

He asked for opinions and people are telling him what works "best" for them. It's not a contest, it's just a simple attempt to learn what others are doing.

In general I've found that MOST (but not all) of the people who use glow starters also use electric starters. People who hand start are more likely to use power panels or a glow starter that can take an alkaline battery. The reason for this is not about competition, it's just the simple fact that at 1.2 volts, the nominal voltage of a rechargable battery can't provide as good a glow as that from an alkaline at 1.5 volts or an adjustable power panel. The extra speed provided by turning the engine with an electric starter appears to be able to overcome the less robust glow provided by the rechargable battery in the typical glow driver.

I have used both. I've found that I get more reliable hand starts using the power panel. Can I hand start with a glow driver? Sure, but I found it's not as consistant, so I stick with the power panel. If I wanted to join the electric starter crowd I might switch to a glow driver. However, I choose to leave my starters at home (I have them for boat racing) rather than carry them to the field.

So, for me, yes, a power panel is "THE BEST". If you have a different "BEST", provide the reasons why and then each reader can evaluate which will be "THE BEST" for their individual situation.

bruce88123

I bought a glow driver from www.rcatsystems.com about a year ago. It's got a lithium battery that needs seldom charging. I've recharged mine once now and it didn't really need it then. It's become the go-to igniter on the field when the others are unsure if theirs is OK or not. It's a little pricey but I NEVER have to worry about it.
http://www.rcatsystems.com/electronics/ligd.php

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

You bring a good point Chuck. My power panel does have adjustable heat for the glow ignitor. I just haven't bothered to buy one because I've had such good luck with that old Dubro Kwik-Start of Dad's. I'm also part of the electric starter crowd [8D]. My box does have the detachable starter box that just holds the battery, power panel & starter so I can take just the little starter box with me to the flight line instead of lugging the whole field box out there. So I think I might go ahead & buy one for the power panel as you suggest just for a back up & the ability to turn up the heat on a cold morning. Thanks for the tip.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Hey bruce , if your idea of a "little pricey" is $100 FedEx is paying you way too much money![X(]

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Mark, you're welcome. There are two important things to remember about a power panel. First, don't plug the glow connector leads into one of the 12 volt jacks, the glow plug will not survive (trust me on this! ). Second, always adjust the glow driver output while you are actually looking at the glow plug element. If you change to a different style of glow plug, adjust the output before you install it.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks again I'll remember that, or try to. After a miss spent youth there was some damage![&:][X(]

Lowlevlflyer

My Feedback: (3)

You hand start guys kill me! flip flip flip flip, cuss, adjust, flip flip flip, cuss, adjust, flip flip flip...

I just stick the glow driver (Ni Starter) on my OS 1.60, put the starter to the nose and push the button... I'm in the air before most of the guys that hand start are even running.

Seriously, I agree with the statement that there is a difference in what is required for a hand start as opposed an electric starter. You need the extra power of a field battery and panel powered glow driver to the glow plug for hand starting, that is a fact. Most of the guys that I fly with the hand start are using the little drivers, and I think that is why they have so much trouble.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

flip flip flip flip cuss adjust & a whole lot more cussing! LOl that was my Dad 40 yrs ago in Midwest city, Ok.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

The people you hang out with obviously don't know what they're doing! OTOH, I really get a kick out of people who apply the starter to the spinner and crank the thing for what seems like minutes. I always wonder how much engine life has been ground away because nobody ever taught them to prime the engine before applying the starter.

Lowlevlflyer

My Feedback: (3)

I know exactly what you mean! The amazed look on their face is priceless when you walk over, prime their engine for them, then hit the starter for a quick second and it fires right up!

bruce88123

Yep - time without fuel is time without oil. Grind, grind, grind[:@]

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Even I know to prime my engine first![sm=idea.gif]

Dr1Driver

Lighten up, Mode. I looked back through this thread, and I found NO references to the "best" way. No one was deamanding that FIEND do it their way. What I did find was several people, including me, relating their experiences and explaining what works for them. The original question was simply an attempt at information-gathering.

When I first started in R/C, I carried a LARGE flight box, complete with full power panel, electric starter, fuel pump, wired glow lighter, a full gallon of fuel, and every tool and spare part known to man. It also held my transmitter and had a plane cradle for at-field repairs. It probably weighed 10-15 pounds.

Now, I carry an electric starter, but only for my Dr.1. My two .32 sport engines both start easily with a chicken stick. The starter is directly wired to the compact gel cell battery. Both are carried in a little leatherette bag. My hand cranked fuel pump is reliable and fairly quick, depending on how fast I want to crank it. As I posted earlier, my hand-held glow driver is VERY reliable, and reliably starts any engine up to a .91 four stroke. A gallon of gasoline flys my Dr.1 for several weekends, and a half gallon of glow fuel will fly my two sport planes all day long.

I've culled down my tools to only what actually fits my planes. No need in carrying a 6" adjustable wrench if the largest fastener on your plane are the #10 nylon slot-head bolts that hold the wing on. Same with spare parts. No need in carrying 6 spare 12-7 props if your engines run 10-4s.

I take better care of my transmitters now. They don't ride to the field rattling around in an open plywood flight box, but in a padded aluminum case.

Is the "best" way? Yes it is, for me. It might not be for others. However, some might learn from my experience and decide to experiment or change. It's not a contest, although some seem to think it is. There's no "best way" or "worst way". But there is "my" way.

Dr.1