Pete737

Was breaking in my evolution 46nt on my PNP H9 Cub today on Power M. 15% (18% synth) She started right up and idled fine for about 5 min then died, After that it would only run breifly before dieing. I left the needles alone per the instructions. After about an hour I reset the needles 2 1/2 out on the high and 2 on the low. Of course my battery died before I could try again. I noticed toward the end of my breif run periods the engine (where I was holding on the glow driver) was getting to hot to touch before it died but it wasn't lean. Im gonna leave the tank full tonight since I dont have a manual pump. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Pete

fozjared

sounds like it overheated which causes the engine to seize slightly, (enough to make it die) In rhode island, i assume that you are close to sea level, which means you are getting more air into your combustion chamber (especially if it is still cool up there!) you are getting a lot more air at sea level plus cooler air is more dense, therefore you were likely running lean! these pnp guidelines are just that, guidelines! you have to adjust the needles! you can't expect an engine to run at sea level the same as it would in denver colorado! you possibly damaged your engine, if so i would contact hangar 9 about it, tell them that their manual instructs no adjustment and now your engine is damaged! but it is most likely ok, charge your battery and give it another try at 2 turns out and adjust until it sounds like it is running its fastest rpms, then turn the high speed needle clockwise about 1/8th turn and that should do it for the .46nt (i have 2 of them)

Pete737

I really dont think it was lean. It was blowing fuel all over the ground. I took out the glow plug and the piston is fine, Looks new. Compression is still mint. What would any other symptoms be of damage?

Pete

ChuckW

How is the high speed? Will it stay running at wide open throttle? I'd adjust the high speed needly just a click or two at a time until you get maximum RPM then back it off 2-3 clicks or until you get a 200-300 RPM drop. Adjust the idle screw 1/8-1/4 turn at a time until you get a smooth idle and good throttle transition. I've found most idle screws set too rich from the factory.

Another thing to try is a pinch test. Pinch off the fuel line and listen to the engine. If it speeds up before quitting, it is rich. If it dies immediately, it is lean. If it slowly starts to sputter and die, it is pretty close. That will get you in the ballpark at least.

Pete737

hey.

Never even went past a quarter stick. It was the first start for the engine. I was idleing the first tank of fuel then she quit. If its blowing fuel out of the exauhst its usually rich right. Its been a while since I messed with nitro engines. I dont see any signs if damage. I'm gonna try an a3 plug today.


Pete

Pete737

BTW what are the factory needle settings for this engine?

rctrax

when you back off from peak you back off conter-clockwise not clocke-wise

opjose

If you left it running for a while idling, and it died while idling, the engine may have been just a click or two rich.

It would have been better for you not to play with the needles, more than a couple of clicks.

That it would not run after this points to either a fuel line clog/restriction, including the possibility of debris in the carb needle valves, - OR - as which always happens with most of the Evolution engines... your engine started to produce the break-in "sludge" that we ALWAYS see with Evolution engines.

While this does not damage the engine itself, it can lead to the pressure ( and fuel ) nipple getting clogged up, which in turn will result in what you are seeing or bad performance in the air.

You need to check that your fuel system and pressure nipple allow fairly free flow of both fuel and air.

Clean them!

Once you get the Evolution running ( hint, set it back to factory defaults and start from there.) run a tank full and again check the nipples.

After the 2nd or 3rd tank tighten the head cap screws which will be a bit loose at this point.

Tune and fly the plane and before your next trip out check the nipples yet again.

Continue to do this until you have run a good 1 1/2 or MORE gallons of fuel through the engine.

It will continue to produce the grey metallic sludge through the first gallon. This is normal for the Evolutions.

I hope you are filtering your fuel too, and consider an in-line fuel filter....

mscic-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

Check you fuel lines too. I have a friend with one of these and we found about 3 inches of coiled up fuel line behind the engine. shortened it up and he has had no problems since.

opjose

That's a great point!

The longer the fuel lines the more pressure required at the tank, the more pressure output needed by the muffler.

For those who don't believe me?

Cut a 1 yard length of new clean tubing, and blow through it.

Now cut a piece 4-5" off that, and blow through the new short tube.

BIG difference eh?