ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

With a 1.25 servo arm I set my hard point up at 1" offset from the centerline of the servo.
This seems to gives a good balance from neutral to endpoints.

Steve

kkling77

My Feedback: (16)

I concur. An 18 hole meeting is definitely in order to discuss such important issues. Hell, while we're at it we might as well make it a 19 hole event and get some real good ideas on the table!!


[quote]ORIGINAL: kregan

Anyway, I will sleep on it.... Maybe Kurt and I need to
conduct a 18 hole meeting and talk this out!

capflyr

My Feedback: (1)

I 2nd that I set all my stuff up that way and it works great you get A stronger end point due to mech advantage

kregan

I finally had time to do some wing prep.

First I made a template for the servo layout. I like working with
templates to reduce the chance of error.

I needed to cut the servo wire holes so I broke out my Weller
soldering gun and made cutter out of 14 ga. copper wire. I had
seen pictures of this done and just copied it.

Laid out the servo wire channel (straight line) checked the plan
to make sure servo wire would exit in a good spot and burned
the holes. I used an aluminum angle as a straight edge and
a depth guide.

Next I routed out the servo locations, glued in the servo mounts
and put everything up to dry.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Keep up the good work! Looks really nice so far. Does Carden put the holes in the foam for the wing tube or do you have to do that?

kregan

Mrbigg...
The Carden wings do come with the wing tube
hole already cut.

With the wing tube sockets glue in place that completes
the wing prep and I am ready to sheet the first main wing.

I put together the sheeting for one wing tonight.

The wings are approx. 53" long. The wing sheeting is
48" long. The instructions have you glue all the extra 5"
sheeting in a straight line out near the wing tips. I decided
to deviate from the plan and cut 1.5" off every other strip
of sheeting to create a staggered joint. This would hide
any straight glue line that could possibly show up under
the covering.

Wayne and Steve...
I will take your advise and offset the hard points a little.
They will be added later and I can adjust them at that time.

I hear from Dennis that Wayne's plane, built by Walt was at the
Toledo show... I told Dennis that my goal was to try and achieve
that level of quality! I hope I can come close! Kurt is even getting
a balsa servo wire tube (maybe) !

weathervane

Looks great Kelly.

kregan

After cutting a piece of plywood to fit the main wings
I glued up the sheeting and got the first wing under
weight.

I come up with 460 pounds with the tile and brick.

capflyr

My Feedback: (1)

That is one strong table keep it up I check every night to see your progress looks great.

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Kelly- looking great- sorry I didn't get over there. I saw that you had the servo bays marked out so I figured you were good. You are doing a great job.


Dave

kregan

Sorry I could not make it out to fly today. Rachel had a great
idea to take the kids to Centenial Park for a "trick or treat trail",
to bad 15,000 other moms, with 2.5 kids each, had the same
idea!

Back to progress.....

I have one wing sheeted and trimmed ready for LE and TE.
The other wing is under weight. I also pulled out the next
pair of wings for a picture in the buff.

Look at the wasted foam in the box, any ideas for that besides
dumpster fill?

BTW,
Any problem using urathane glue for the LE and TE instead of
aliphatic resin (wood glue) that the instructions call for? My
though is the urethane would force itself into the edge of the
foam and balsa filling any small voids.

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

If you use the urethane glue on the leading and trailing edges just be sure to have them secured- the expansion of the glue might cause some problems.

BBW Walt

My Feedback: (11)

BTW,
Any problem using urathane glue for the LE and TE instead of
aliphatic resin (wood glue) that the instructions call for? My
though is the urethane would force itself into the edge of the
foam and balsa filling any small voids.

It will work, use a lot of tape to pull it down, every 2 inches or so. I use Titebond II. Its less mess and works just as well maybe better in my opinion. Tips and end caps I use 5 minute epoxy. I use an acid brush with the bristles cut back to 1/4 inch. The epoxy can be brushed real thin just enough to stick it on. In a couple minutes you can shape the piece and the epoxy will sand clean. Done correctly its very light, very little glue, Walt

ps, you have a very nice build thread going here and your work looks pro..Keep it going...

kregan

Dave and Walt,
I will stick with the Titebond, no reason to complicate things.

I installed the servo mounts on the second pair of wings tonight.
Also I prepped the wing tube sockets, I will glue them in the AM
before work.

I don't have a razor plane, but I found plans for one and I think
I will knock out a couple.

kregan

Wing #3 is being squished !

More sheeting and my take on the wing layout.

kregan

Thank you Walt !

Mark786

Kelly and All,
I just started my 260 kit last night and am wondering about rudder servo placement. Most seem to be running dual push-pull servos at the tail. I have not seen this in the instructions or plans. Looks like some servo reinforcement would be in order before getting too far along with the fuse.
Any thoughts. While we are on the subject are most using the elevator location shown on the plans?
When mounting a servo onto the hard points are most of you mounting to the balsa sheeting over the hard points or are you trimming the balsa back and mounting somewhat recessed?
Great build Kelly.
Thanks,
Mark

kregan

I had the same question on rudder servo location.

I found this picture in another build thread. I did not want
to use that servo location since I had already put lightening
holes in the plywood plate.

I asked Dave if he thought it was ok to mount the servos
in the shaded area. That is were I will be adding the
3/8" x 3/8" stock for the servo's.

As for the elevator servo, with the larger servo mount
box/rails I had to move it a little forward to keep it from hitting
the stab tube socket.

I don't know what others are doing, but I will be removing the
soft balsa over the servo rail.

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

Sure, that location will work for the rudder servos. Here is mine that I used Futaba 9152 which are bigger with no problems. Plane has flown all of this past summer.

Mark786

Wow Joe,
Those pictures are very helpful. That is exactly the way I will be doing it.
I really appreciate you taking the time to post them.
Mark

kregan

The sheeting of foam is complete!

The second set of main wings are out from under
the weight and I have turned my attention back
to the stabs.

I will be using the aircraft ply root rib modification
on both planes.

I screwed up and created extra work for myself by
trimming the 1/16" sheeting off flush with the root end
of the stabs. I should have left it long, cut the plywood
root rib and in-laid that into the root under the sheeting.
Now I will have to custom fit each root rib to get a smooth
finish for the covering. I have an idea to make it a little
easier so I am not trying to sand plywood even with balsa.

I will epoxy each of them to the root and add a 3/8" dowel
later.

Mark786

Kelly,
Early in the thread you were working on the fuse but before finishing you went to sheeting. Did you finish the fuse without keeping us informed or did you set it to the side?
I am in the process of my fuse and I keep thinking I am putting something in the wrong order so it helps to see your completions.
I am way over thinking this thing but I keep worrying about installing something before its time and having a do over.
Like forgetting to do servo mounts or hard points at the wrong time. Fortunately most things can be corrected so I shouldn't worry so much.
My biggest worry on the fuse was cutting the diagonal pieces to fit well. I pulled out an old angle sander contraption I bought at a swap meet a few months ago and what a breeze. Almost looks professional.
Great build.
Mark

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

Kelly,

I'm done building. I'm bringing my next one over to your house so you can do it.

Dave

kregan

I set it aside since I needed a couple of thing. One was the engine
or engine template which I now have, the second is the stabs.

When you do the stab modification I just posted you will need the
stab with the LE and TE install so you can set 0 incidence while
you are assembling the frame. You do this BEFORE cutting out the
elevator. I will show pictures of that when I do it but Walt's has
it documented in his 260 and 300 build.

I also wanted to get the foam sheeted and out of the way so I had
a clear table to assemble the motor box and side frames on.

One more thing.... I noticed that the holes in the plywood plates
that support the wing tubes were ever so slightly off center up and
down. If tou placed the ply parts on the wing tube and rotated one
against the other they were off just a tad in one direction .

A hair off in the center can translate to a 1/4" real fast out at the end
of the wing tube so I decided to wait and glue the ply supports in later
when I had the sid frames standing on end ready to glue to the motor
box. Then I will sheet the side frame and glue them to the motor box.

I don't know if that makes sense without pictures?

Hard points:
I am going to through drill all the control surface hard points later. I will
use a dowel that will run from one side of the sheeting through the foam
to the other side of the sheeting. I can do this with a drill press while
the surface is laying flat in the shuck.

Plywood triangle:
Having the milling machine I just milled off one half of a square to
make the triangle.

kregan

Dave, you might want to wait and see how they fly first!

One down side to this whole Carden ownership thing...
If I don't win in Basic I can't blame the plane!