dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

OK. thanks for the tips. think these whafts will ever break with an OS .18? Should i order spares while I'm at it?

I think chrysler switched from the british made cricket to the colts in the early 70s so maybe the first colts were just rebadged crickets which is based on the sunbeam i think.
Just my guess. I worked as a mechanic, then as a service consultant at a GM dealership for a while so i have been brainwashed to like GMs. lol

Can anyone reccomend a good car forum? I'm a car nut and always looking to learn about anything. Just sold my old buick century wiht an olds 455 Big block in it today so thats one less project I will be attempting

Scouser

The Plymouth Cricket was called the Hillman/Chrysler Avenger over here. If this is the same car, there are always parts on ebay for them. Is this the car you mean? http://www.colin99.co.uk/avenger.html

dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

the car is more square than that one.

rolland

You should never have a problem with the buggy shafts unless you lose a cvd pin.

Sorry to hear about the GM affliction.
There were no Cricketts or Hillman's in the states. Only the occasional Sunbeam.


rolland

Scouser

I hear sunbeams are VERY rare over in Washington!!

rolland

I have only seen two or three in the shows and they were the V8 powered convertible ones. Some of them might have come from Canada I don't remember.


rolland

dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

Got some of the shaft mod parts in today including thediff cups. Man they are beefy compared to the cen ones

Rolland,
When you ground them down to fit in the diffs, did you also drill a hole for that pin to connect them? And do you have any tips on grinding them down?
Thanks

(sry for the poor pics couldn't get my cam to focus right...)

rolland

I didn't use the center pin. I have had no problems with out it and Poor Judgment says he hasn't either.

As far as the grinding part just take it slow with lots of trial fits. It is easier to remove metal than to add it.
Try to remove the same amount of material on each side for the flats and I beveled the outside of the cups a little bit for clearance. You will also need to clearance the shock towers a little bit. On the ARO towers I just rounded them over a little bit.

Here are some pics that might help.

I forgot to add that I shortened the cup section to around 14mm.

dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

I FINALLY got all the parts together to do the shaft mod lol. When you guys did this mod did you use two 16*8*5 bearings on each hub? Thats what i have tried but there is quite a bit of wobble. I don't know if i can get 16*8*6 bearings but even if i could i wouldn't want to spend the extra $$. Did you guys use any shims or anything to get the wheels more stable??

dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

hello...?
Rolland, PJ, anyone else who did the shaft mod... Did you figure out a way to get rid of the wheel slop? Or did no one else have any?

poor judgement

i havent done the swift shaft mod as yet, sorry. maybe pm rolland?

rolland

Replied to your PM


rolland

alvinl

Has anyone had any success with the Jato shafts on their FunFactor? I am not having a lot of luck getting the shafts to fit properly. When I put everything together, the shafts do not extend far enough into the diff cups to stay in through the full range of suspension travel.

azzman

I managed to mod all 4 of the hubs to fit the Jato shafts (changed the bearing setup) and wound the pivot balls in till everything was sweet. Then broke one of the (obviously) **** quality GPM shafts in half by hardly even touching it!So sent the buggers back for a refund and decided that for the cost of some better shafts it was cheaper to do the (already tried and tested) method with TMaxx parts. (gotta love EBAY) So are halfway through that mod now! Later on if I come across some (good) Jato shafts cheap I may go back to it.

poor judgement

u still got the pics of the dodgy jato shafts azzman? they speak a thousand words and all that... oh, and made me laff too... shockin quality!

alvinl

Gotcha. I left everything in it's stock location so I could go back easily. I will crank those babies in tonight and see what I get.

azzman

OK on PJ's request, heres a pic of the CRAP GPM JATO SHAFTS!

poor judgement

stunning. did u get ur cash back ok mate?

azzman

Yup no problems there dude.

dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

Anybody ever figure anythign out for buggy/rally shafts?
These things are like toothpicks. I'd like to put an OS 18 in my rally, but i break enough shafts as it is and the CEN ones are bloody expensive for what they are!

poor judgement

my rally shafts dont suffer to badly at all. biggest issue is that they snap fairly easily, where the hex pin goes, in a big crash or if a wheel clips something heavy n big at speed. oh - and i have the os.18 in my rally too. less resistance from smaller wheels and less leverage from shorter arms helps i guess. i still have the cup mod on the rally tho.

lots of fun with a .18 rally - try it man, mines a good bit faster than the local touring car gang.

dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

That must really piss those guys off lol.

I have an 18 in my MT2 but it might be getting a big block(see my other thread), then the rally would get the 18.

My issue is that I drive the rally either on grassy fields/smooth dirt. OR most of the time, it goes over some open but rough land in our pasture. Seeing as how the car is going full speed and hitting some small and some large jumps and landing at odd angles sometimes, I tend to break a few shafts either a the pinhole, or right in the middle fo the shaft.
I have the diff cups modded, I have some fuel line in the diff cups, and I have a fair bit of fuel line on the shock rods to limit movement.

I can't think of any RCs that would have that length of shaft that would be thicker/stronger.
Might have to try a quick home Heat treatment to see if that strengthens them any. I do have a kiln in one of the old farm buildings. might have to find it.

I could try and fabricate some, but making the ball end to fit into the cups would be tricky.

rolland

Did you get the axle play figured out and how are the Swift shafts working for you?



rolland

dustin7837

My Feedback: (1)

all I needed was a 1mm washer on each side and it tightened right up. I only have the back done because I accidently only ordered 2 shafts instead of 4 and then by the time I got the other 2 shafts I lost one of the hubs [] lol.
So now I am waiting for more hubs to get here. Plus, I sent DR. honda my front diff and diff internals. I do have a spare plastic diff case so I was able to put it together and I took the buggy shafts apart and used the wheel end (not the shaft) and put them in the stock hubs up front So I could put the romulins on and run it 2WD.

Works great and looks so much cooler with maxx sized wheels. I just put some bowties on for now as the komodos are expensive[X(]

Only one other thing I noticed, I didn't really want to grind those drive cups down more than i had to so I ground about 2 mm off the Upper arm where there was contact. Oh an do you have any issues with the rear turnbuckles hitting the exhaust? Mine rubs when the suspension travels about half way down. I have a slighlty longer set of lunsford titanium turnbuckles (boy are the 4 mm ones expensive) for the back and front on the way, so hopefully they are a tiny bit skinnier in the middle and will resolve this problem.

I gotta say how much I appreciate you doing all the work and research to figure this mod out. *gives rolland a standing ovation*
I really was tired of breaking cen shafts!
YOU DA MAN!!

poor judgement

lets have some pics dustin!

dont worry about the komodos, i dont get on with them tbh, brick pins work much better imo. and yes, 2wd is great with tmaxx wheels, doesnt spin out anything like it does with 2.2" wheels n tyres.