Fear2722

My Feedback: (20)

Yeah I already talked myself out of the modern fixed gear, no worries!

I had a TF Mustang with the mechanical retracts and I have never had such a head ache before... Space is of the essence and I don't believe I can fit an air tank in there, and don't want to mess with unnessavary hook ups... so the E-Flite .60-1.20 electric retracts are VERY appealing

Fear2722

My Feedback: (20)

Sidenote: That box should be here before I leave for work. I feel like it's Christmas in October.

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

I also forgot the new YS engines were short stroke...Oooops..

There are a couple of for sale ads I have stumbled across lately:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2021771
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=944316

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

Definatly go with retracts!! Although I don't have any the e-flights seem to be the ticket, definatly on my bucket list...I wonder how are they holding up??

Mechanical retracts are not bad if you buy quality components, use good hardware and take some time setting them up...If I were going with mechanical retracts I would look at B&D retracts or Dave Brown Southern Pro retracts....

Stuart Chale

Here are some pictures of what I did to modify my Desire to a plug in wing with the pipe running through the bottom of the fuse.
The motor was soft mounted to the firewall with a nose ring. A standard fuse top header was used. The bottom of the fuse has two hatches to allow access to the radio equipment and tank which is under the wing tube. With the front hatch removed it is easy to connect the mechanical retracts to the servo. I used standard Dubro ball links for this. The pipe cover is a block of balsa carved and hollowed out. Fiberglassed on the inside and outside to strengthen it and fuel proof the inside.
So set up is pretty straight forward. Remove the front hatch (one screw), insert the wings attach with 2 cap screws through the inside of the fuse into the wing root. Attach the retract links, Re-install the front hatch, attach the pipe and screw on the pipe cover (4 screws).

Fear2722

My Feedback: (20)

Awesome!! I'm still not picking up what you're putting down for the wing bolts to the root. It looks as though I may have to separate the wing roots and install blind nuts and re-install if I am getting it correctly. I was thinking about a socket head cap screw on the wing to the tube would be simple.. But having it concealed would look much better.

If anyone comes across a chin cowl and fiberglass top (canopy/turtledeck) I'll pay good!!

Thanks!

Stuart Chale

I never liked the bolt through the wing into the wingtube although it works OK
On this plane the blind nut was below the wing tube and accessible through the 2 circled holes. And yes just a 6/32 socket head cap screw and washer on each side into the blind nut in the wing root will do the trick.

On the newer one I was working on (back in 1990 or so) the blind nut is just behind the wing tube and would be accessed through the hatch from inside the fuse. I have used this method on most of my pattern planes with a 2 piece wing. I have had to change position of the blind nut due to equipment being in the way etc. You can do that without removing the wing root, just drill the hole where you want it and tunnel under the foam and use a hemostat to place the blind nut in from behind. The foam does little for strength in that area.

Stuart

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Stuart,

I've been following with interest as I'm modifying another design for plug-in wings. In your experience, will 1/8" lite ply wing roots be sufficiently flexible to cap a gently curved fuse side following sheeted core? I was considering using 1/32" ply for roots to provide the flexibility but prefer lite ply if it will bend sufficiently. A small circle of 1/8" lite ply can be used to provide thickness (1/4" total) for blind nuts. With the 1/32" I'd need 1/8" lite ply rings to support the tube at the roots as well and likewise on the anti rotation pins.

Thanks, David

Fear2722

My Feedback: (20)

Now I feel like a rocket scientist for not figuring that out! Thanks again

Stuart Chale

How much flexibility do you need?
I think I would keep the root straight and just add balsa filler to fit the curve. As long as the area of the blind nut fits tight tot he fuse that would work.
Take a look at the rear of this stab, you can see the skins extend past the root. Probably toughened up with some ca on the inside I would guess.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Stuart,

thanks for the reply and suggestion. Using a filler on the fuse is not a bad idea as it would allow me to create fillets. The skins I plan to use are too thin to use the Sebart approach but I could take a tranche of the skinned core with the root following the fuse side profile and then use a straight cut line on the actual outer panels. The fillet to panel junction could use lite ply on either side and use a longer securing bolt traversing the fillet from the fuse inside. At the bolt joint near the tube the additional thickness may only be ~1/4".

What do you think?

David

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks Stuart for the detailed photos and explination!! My Desire which was framed up by another individual is set up like yours with the pipe on the bottom and plug in wings, it's really nice...He did such a fantastic job on this thing!! The wings are soooo light...I should really bump this plane up in the "things to finish" line up because it will be a really nice plane...I will power it with a Hanno...

My LA-2 has a similar wing attach set-up as your Desire except it is accessed from a hatch on the top...I have the ball links on the retract servo just like yours and find it's pretty managable with that configuration....

Have Fun...

Stuart Chale

Not sure I can picture what you are saying. Is the foam core root already curved? How much of a curve are we talking here?

PatternPilot

My Feedback: (58)

Fear2722,

Contact me direct... I might be able to help you with Desire 60 parts and plans.

[email protected]

Scott