Fxrs_tim

Interesting discussion. I really like the idea of the cheap, entry-level racing series to bring new blood into the sport. I also agree that nominal changes, i.e. landing gear, cf pushrods, wheels (diameter and width needs to be addressed), and other "normal" type changes and/or repairs should be allowed. Speed enhancing mods should not be allowed as others have discussed - re-shaping, mods to control surface size, etc.. However, we also have an obligation to educate the newcomers to the sport about very simple things that make a plane fly better, specifically sealing hinge lines. There is a significant variation in the gap size of the stock planes, and allowing seals would (in my opinion) even the field. It's a CHEAP mod that anyone is capable of doing in a few minutes and probably doesn't add any straight-line speed. Yes, it will probably make your plane handle better, which is a good thing. If somebody has one that isn't sealed, offer to show them how! Heck, bring your iron and some covering scraps and do it for people before the races start.

Beginner class racing isn't only about winning. It's about teaching, helping, learning, and most of all ENJOYING the experience. One of my favorite plaques is from a sailplane contest where I got 2nd. The guy who beat me was the one who I helped fix his plane after a hard spot landing. His statement of, "Dude, I wouldn't have won without you" still comes to mind every time I see the plaque. I probably couldn't give you details on some of my 1st place ones b/c there aren't any really special memories attached to them, but that 2nd will always be special.

Tim

Jim Duda

I had a dream last night:

(Losing Pilot) "This isn't fair! Mrs. Outlaw won because she had an unfair advantage - nylon wing bolts, non-stock decals, cheek supports, sealed hinge gaps, carbon fiber pushrods, SAE (not metric) hardware, internal antenna, fuel proofed tank area, 5 cell receiver battery, 20 channel hi-ZOOT transmitter, AND SHE BALANCED HER PROP!!!"

(Course Official) "Sir, she beat you because you cut and had to fly 11 laps."

daven

My Feedback: (1)

When I get a chance, I'm going to attempt to split out the Mod's discussion from the Hangout discussion.

Edit Update:

Well, its just not possible for me to pull individual posts out of the discussion and move them into a new thread.

Soo,,, If you want to talk about Mods and Rules, please do it in the future thread. If you want to copy and repost your threads here over there, your welcome to do so. Lets keep this thread about the fun and excitement of Club 40 racing.

Thanks,

Jeff_edge540

[crickets chirping in the distance....]

Jeff_edge540

Well, I got a chance today to break-in my GMS .40 engine.

I wasn't too excited when i opened the box. It looked like someone had returned this engine to Tower and they shipped it to me. All the bags had been opened and there was even a card to the top of an APC prop package in there as well.

Upon first inspection, everything looked fine. The carb was pretty rough feeling. It felt like there was sand in the barrell. You could move the throttle but it was rough. The engine casing was pretty good looking and the gold anadized head looked great. I was pleasently supprised to find that there were two o-rings in the carb. One in the engine block and one at the rim (normal place) of the carb. I was also happy to see a LARGE adjustment screw for the low-end. the high-end adjustment was firm and had a very tight seal. I turned the engine over by hand to see how the fit between piston and sleeve was and it was very tight. I didn't want to push it until I had good lubrication so I didn't try and turn it all the way over.

The fit in the Sky Raider II was tight. The crankcase is bigger than the TT40. I had to shave about a 16th from each motor mount to get it to fit the stock mounts. The muffler fit the cutouts perfectly and I had to only cut about 1/3" quarter-round out of the from left side for the high-end adjustment.

When I fueled it up for the first time I tried to prime it by placing my finger over the carb (full-throttle) and turning it over by hand a couple/three times and it was VERY difficult to do. I was afraid I was going to break the push-rod... I tried to start it with my Hobbico 90 starter and it wouldn't turn it over. I had to turn it over by hand about 10 times then get the starter spinning and jam it on the nose cone. The engine fired up and spit and sputtered until it got up to speed. I was running it REAL rich (not 4-stroking) and after about 30 sec. I shut it off. The head was VERY hot (hotter than I had ever felt on a r/c engine).

Well after about a gallon of fuel it is running quite nicely. I was using an APC 10x5 prop on Omega 10% fuel. I am getting 14,800 (little rich) on the top end. It is idling very smoothly (2400 rpm) and transitions beautifully. I don't notice any mid-throttle issues. I am very happy with this engine.

For $59, I'd say this is a great engine for the Club 40 class. If it wasn't for the really tight initial fit, I would say it wins over the TT40. We will see how it holds up.

Jim Duda

Nice report, Jeff - Thanks! Are you using it Saturday? That will be the ultimate test: to see how well it hangs with the TTs.

Do you know the oil content in your fuel?

Druce

You will find that the motor will be strong for a season and it will lost a bit. They don't seem to stay tight very long. But hey for $59 bucks you can't go wrong.!! The 47's are stronger yet.. I got two of the 40's and there aboout 5 years okd

Jeff_edge540

Omega by Morgan is 18% oil (30% caster 70% Synthetic) I believe.

BTW: After my incident at ARCA - I realized that I should have at least two Raiders ready to go at an event (just in case)

Jeff_edge540

Druce - thanks for the incite. We always have new folks getting into the hobby with a 40 & a trainer. I'm sure I can find a good home for it at the end of the season

Ken Erickson

Please,

To those who have not registered at any of our South-Central Texas Club 40 Races or the practice race at ARCA.

If you intend to be at the Race Saturday, April 7th, South of San Antonio, PM to me your name and AMA number. This will help speed up the paperwork.

Thank you,

Ken Erickson

Jeff_edge540

Sky is looking a little gray for Sat over San Antonio... Is the race still on?

averen

I think the race is going to happen no matter what. I received an e-mail a couple of days ago saying that we will race between showers if need be.

Jared

Ken Erickson

Race in San Antonio postponed to April 14th!!

The committee has voted.

"Between showers" is one thing, but a high of 47 in SA in April with showers and misting tipped the scales.

Everything else is the same.

Thanks,

Ken Erickson

antique opa

Ok Guys,
Went to Jim's today and bought the Mach II and LA 40. I'm going to assemble it all stock.
What prop's are the most commom. I have 10x6, 10x5 apc's. 15% nitro.
When breaking in the 40, Just do the normal abc break-in? Smaller prop?
Should be ready by the 14th.
Thanks, Mark

averen

Todd and I both have LAs and have "run the gamut" on props trying to find what works the best. We have tried everything from 10x4s - 10x6s as well as 9x6 - 9x8s and even a couple of 9.5x?. All of them seem to perform about the same. The 9s with higher pitch will get you more straight line speed, but you'll lose it in the corners. The 10s will hang better in the corners and will maintain speed better, but have a slightly slower straight line speed. Usually Todd would run one prop and I would try another, using Todd's plane as the "baseline." In all of our tests the difference between props was negligible. If Todd was on a 9" prop and I was using a 10" prop he would accelerate ahead of me on the straights, and I would come out ahead on the turns. After 5ish laps of this there was no real "winner" as far as the prop was concerned.

Personally I'm happiest with a 10x4 or a 10x5 (Todd prefers the smaller 9" props). Right now I'm running an 11x4 and I like it a lot, but it might be a little on the large size for the engine. I'm only getting about 11K rpm, but it will still hang with Todd's plane turning a 9x6 at over 13K. For the size the 11" is more efficient than the 10s and definitely more so than the 9s, but you sacrifice RPM to get there. The 9s slip a good amount compared to a 10 or 11" prop.

I did the "normal" break in procedure and it seemed to work fine. I get around 13k with a 10x5 on 15%.

Jared

gunfighter

My Feedback: (1)

Last year it seemed like the guys running the LA were running better times with the 11x4 or 11x5. As Jared said they seemed to accelerate faster out of the turns and since we turn every 400 ft. that is important.

The CLAMS team (Canyon Lake) had a practice session this afternoon and we are ready to kick some *****. Ya'll better watch out come race day! I've got a new LA racer that is faster and turns tighter than the Killer Bee! And my team mates were only about 1/4 lap behind after 20+ laps!

Max_Power

I agree with Jared that 6-one-way, 1/2 dozen the other, ...a prop seems to pretty much be a prop with the LA. I swear last time we practiced we were midair-close for 10 laps with me on a 9x6 and him on 11x4. I tell you the truth , the only reason I like the 9" is as close as it is, I'd rather be ahead in the straight(where the finish line is ) than through a corner,lol Todd

waydar

Dave....did you ever split off to a new thread? If so, would you please send me a link to it?

Thanks

waydar

Ken Erickson

And for opa,

The boys speak the truth.

Now, the smaller diameter props will sound faster, due to higher RPM. But that will probably also wear out the motor sooner.

The finish line is in the center of the course, just 200 feet after you come out of the corner.

I break LAs in with a 10 X 4. Can't decide whether to use a 10 X 6 or 11 X 4 for the racing. APC, of course.

It is fun to play around with this stuff.

Oh, some of our guys have tried 30% nitro. Reported not much improvement. The smaller engines need more nitro. Cox fuel is about 25%. Here, 15% works just fine.

Ken

daven

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah Waydar, its been split off. Heres the link:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_56...mpage_3/tm.htm

waydar

Thanks alot Dave....sorry the SA race was postponed because of bad weather....I know everyone was ready to fly and have fun...well maybe next week.

Good luck

Thanks again for the link.

waydar

antique opa

Thanks for all the help. Sizing props is like gearing for nascar. Go fast turn left. Everything in my kit looks good. Should have it done tomorrow.

StanDouglas

OK gunfighter,
We're going to insist on a complete inspection of your LA Racer including the wingspan and the prop nut! We got your Killer Bee, right here... Duda's got a Raider that's faster than a greased bullet and even has the supplied pushrods, not carbon fiber ones!

You're going down!
Stan

gunfighter

My Feedback: (1)

Mine is box stock - (except for some of the decals blew off when I hit warp 2) inspect all you want!
Our newest member, Chris, is the one you better watch out for. 18 year old eyes and reflexes are a BIG advantage. And "Fast Eddie" now has a TT Pro 40[X(]

StanDouglas

Well, if Chris dusts us off too badly, I'm going to insist on age groups! Anyway we have some young pups ready to duel it out here at ARCA too. Maybe not 18, but Chris won't last once he discovers girls! After that we won't see him for 5 or 10 years.

So bring it on

Stan[:'(]