suckerforamoneypit

Guys I am look for some C/L plane plans I can print off or copy by hand. I tryed looking but i can find any for free. i got eveything i need to make it but its my first and i dont want to wing it and find out that the c of g is way off or wing size problems and c of p being off. Also i couldnt find anywhere that showed how to calculate the angle at witch the line enters the wing..or dose it even matter?

64stang

Here's one I found on rcgroups.com, although I'm not sure what size you're looking for???

mole2000

WHAT?

build light

Eh?

gcb

Try this site: http://aeromaniacs.com/

The Platter is being held by its creator, Bill Osborne, and the free plans for it (and the "stealth" version) are on the upper right side of the page.

Also see "Free Plans" link on the left side.

You should be able to find something you like.

Most of the free CL plans you find are sheet-wing 1/2A profile models.

It is pretty safe to balance most CL models between the leading edge and 25% back on the average wing chord. More toward the LE is more stable. The further back the balance, the more sensitive to control.

If by "c of p" you are referring to center of pressure on the wing, that has little relevancy on a sheet wing.

If this is your first attempt at scratch building, you should be aware of balsa grain types. For instance, sheet wings, fuselages, and tail surfaces should be "C" or at least "BC" grain or they will warp. Check out the SIG site for balsa grain descriptions, or just search on the internet. Leave the "A" grain for sheeting, etc. Time well spent. Your first plane should be a pleasant experience. Good luck!

George

Edit: Oops! Forgot to address the leadout question. Centering the leadouts at about the C/G is a safe place to start on a beginner plane. If you can, make the leadout position adjustable so you can move it if necessary. Actual best position will be determined by type and length of lines. Actual setup will have the plane flying tangent to the circle, not pointing in or out. Don't make the mistake of having it fly with the nose pointed way out. Most plans show where the leadouts worked for the designer. That's a good place to start.

cutaway

About 35 years ago I built something just like that platter using the round cardboard out of a frozen pizza package ;->

suckerforamoneypit

Thank you for the info..
I never found that site before but it had everything i needed. Here is a few pics of the c/l i started. I never labeled any of the pics so if you got any questions and see anything i have done wrong or could just make it better lat me know

gcb

It looks better than my first plane. Make sure the wings and tail are straight. Also make sure that the controls work freely.

Here are some things to look out for next time:

- Make sure the wing ribs are cut with the grain running straight. That will give you the most strength. Note the second pic where a few have the grain running crooked.

- Learn to make glue joints using very little glue. Note the picture where you glued the trailing edge on. If you put just a little glue on the ribs, let it soak in, then add just a little more and apply the trailing edge. It is usually easier if you apply the trailing edge to the top, then add weights. When dry, turn the wing over and again glue the trailing edge to the top. For the most strength and least weight, male sure everything fits well with no gaps. NEVER try to fill gaps with glue. Good glue joints are harder to make but well worth learning. It comes with experience so you need to build lots of planes.

- Hinges. I noticed you used RC hinges. I hope they are the barrel type and move easily. The sheet nylon ones are good when you have a servo to move them but not when you depend on the pull of the model as on a CL ship. Sewn or cloth hinges are better for small CL models.

- Your control setup. By moving your bellcrank closer to the ship and the control horn a little more inboard so that the pushrod is parallel to the fuselage would look better and possibly work better. Keep that in mind for your next ship.

- When you need to fill gaps like the bellcrank mount and fuselage to wing joint, use a balsa as a filler, with a small amount of glue to hold it in place.

- The rudder will probably break off easily. It is much stronger if the balsa grain is running up and down.

- The engine mount could use some support, like a triangular balsa block as high as the engine mount and back to the wing leading edge on the left side and from the bottom of the tank to the bottom of the fuselage, also back to the wing leading edge on the right side.

- You do not show your fuel tank installation. What do you have?

Some other pointers: Fly over grass if you can. Let someone hand launch it for you. You can also run some cardboard over grass for take off if you want. Concrete or asphalt eats airplanes.

Have you ran the engine yet?

Looking good so far.

George

Jim Thomerson

Looks good. I think it will be tail heavy. It can balance on the leading edge of the wing and still be stuntable.

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

you don't have to have plans. Here is a couple I built from scratch and they fly great. The red one I call the TRICK STAR has a Norvel .061 and will fly any AMA manover in the book and is light as a feather and tough as nails. The yellow and turquoise I call the SWEAT BEE and is powered by a Cox Black Widow .049 and is a real hot rod! It flys a bit fast but has good line tension and is very managable.

build light

You have done some great work there! You should be very proud, especially with the wing ribs.

The biggest problem I see for now is far too much glue. Glue that is not actually holding part of the plane together is just dead weight. The test is:
If you can see any glue after the parts are put together (but not dry yet) then you have used too much glue. I see glue smeared in many places that the parts are not touching. This is something that you will learn in time and it will be well worth the trouble once learned.

The second biggest problem I see is that the engine firewall is going to give you lots of trouble because you need a lot more bracing. If you don't, expect the firewall and engine to part company with the rest of the model early in its life.

Keep up the good work!

Robert.

suckerforamoneypit

Thanks you for the info. I really do need to work on my gluing. I have a lot more wood and two more engines to use so i will give it another try. But as for this plane I went back and put some more firewall support in and for the fuel tank I dont really know but i do plan to put it on the flat cowling/hood part behind the engine. I was going to go to the LHS the weekend and see what that had to say about it. Also i wanted to get a handle and some control line, but for the line I want to get something that i can keep for a wile. Not like the cox style nylon line. So if you guys know anything i can use for a tank or C/L let me know

Thanks TW

Jim Thomerson

To answer your question on where the lines should come out on the wing tip--the general answer is a little bit behind the CG (1/4 -1/2 in for your airplane). If the lines are too far back, the airplane will get light on the lines when you take it up high. Too far forward and you can have problems with it turning in on you. Serious stunt airplanes have leadouts adjustable fore and aft and you can tell the difference in moving them maybe 1/8 in either way.

suckerforamoneypit

Ok well I think I'm in some trouble now. The guy at my LHS said he wouldn't have anything or even be able to get me anything in that would work with my cox engine . So I hope you guys cab help me out, or even give me some good insight on some tank building materials.

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

I made this one from brass shim stock, a tin can works well too. A wedge tank would be a good choice for a CL plane since the centrifugal (spelling?) force will be working for you, no need for a clunk like an RC tank. Maybe someone has a diagram of the insides.

Don't be a "suckerforamoneypit" my Grandfather always told me, "If you aint got what you need make it!" If you can't make it try www.brodak.com

suckerforamoneypit

Thanks for the tank plans. but do you think i will be able to solder a tin can and if so is there some kind of solder or flux that would be better to use.

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

I have made several from a tin can using paste flux and rosin core solder. A torch, soldering gun or iron work well, just skuff up the surface a little, brush on some flux, add a thin layer of melted solder (called tinning) and fuse the sides together with heat. Practice on scraps first to get your techique down. Give it try, it's actually pretty easy.

suckerforamoneypit

Sounds good. But i got to ask when i fuse it together will i apply the soldering gun directly to the tin to heat it up?

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

Yep! Give it a try, you'll see.

Jim Thomerson

Another possibility is to use a 35 mm film cannister. There is a shoe repair glue called 'Goop" which you can use to seal the holes for tubes. Annother possibility is to use a small balloon. Attach it to the fuel line (twisty tie or rubber band) with some fuel line inside with a couple of notches cut in it. You fill the baloon with a syringe through the fuel line, then suck all the air out. Leave the baloon soft. You can put the balloon inside the film cannister, or use the cannister as a tank directly.

suckerforamoneypit

Well my C/L is done. I want to say thank you to all u guys for helping me out. Here are a few pics, I didnt make my own tank yet but the weekend i am going to give it a try. Also i will going to flying her the weekend, So i will try and get a small clip for you guys.

Thanks
TW

Jim Thomerson

Go for it! [8D]

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

Well...how it go?? You still got it don't ya?

kdheath

If you feel like you need somw more info on design or layoiut, there are several sources of CL [;and out ther at nodest prices. Googlwe Barry Baxter Combat Plans and the Stuka Stunt Works and have a look. Baxter's site is really good for stealimg ideas, and his plams are reallly goood. too.

suckerforamoneypit

sorry guys its been so long and i still haven't posted any videos, but i have been have been wateing like 2 months for a prop. my LHS dont carry props that small, and say that its really hard to get them. I do have a prop that is almost the right size but i cant get the engines rpms up with it on. So if you guys can tell me were to get a good prop that i can buy and have in canada within a week or two, i am not a big fan of nitro in the winter