Caelus New F3A design by Top RC Model
02-26-2016, 03:46 PM
#277
Ok guys I have a question. Look at the pic and tell me what goes into the area with the red circle??? I have the small CF tube in the front of the wing, the plastic thumb screw in the middle of the wing, and I have nothing to screw into the back section of the wing. I'm assuming another plastic thumb screw goes in each side that I did not get. Time to drag out the junk box for a set of thumb screws.
Last edited by Zippi; 02-26-2016 at 04:18 PM.
02-28-2016, 11:20 AM
#283
Made a little progress today. The way I held the motor in place to epoxy the ply mount in and give me a 1/16" gap between the spinner back plate and cowl may be a little unorthodox but it seem to work fine. That was a bungee cord I found in the parking lot at work. The Falcon spinner was suppose to fit the falcon 3 blade prop without any cutting but in reality I had to cut a little off the spinner to keep it from hitting the prop. The wheel pants were a no brainier but the "C" clip was a pain in the back side. Just need to pull the motor and epoxy the front side of the ply motor mount. Looking good so far.
Last edited by Zippi; 02-28-2016 at 11:22 AM.
02-28-2016, 02:42 PM
#291
Thanks for the info guys. I kinda like the way Dave Snow did it. This way there are not bolts heads or zip ties sticking up that the battery's have to lay on. All the pics I've seen of this plane they had nice turn buckle rods for the linkage. I have a pack of these .078" rods that IMO are way to small. Maybe I'm to use to giant scale gassers. They have the famous rolled threads that come from on the other side of the pond which means almost no threads at all. Looks like I'm going to have to purchase something of a little better quality than what I'm looking at. Any of you guys using these small rods?
03-01-2016, 05:45 PM
#292
My Feedback: (10)
I am no expert here. Just a couple of questions and thoughts...
The way the batteries and ESC are mounted, I would think the significant concern is to make certain cooling airflow around these two components is sufficient.
It's hard to tell in the pics the way Dave Snow has the ESC installed. It looks like it is vertical in front of the bottom area of the battery tray and doesn't completely block air from under the battery tray. Perhaps, the result is that there is a bit of turbulent airflow under the battery tray for improved cooling and the ESC is seeing fresh air directly on the heat sink.
I would be interested to see the inlet air vents and the exhaust air vents of your plane. Did Dave do any baffling to control airflow in the fuse, or does the inlet/exhaust venting holes provide a good flow of air?
Larry Diamond
The way the batteries and ESC are mounted, I would think the significant concern is to make certain cooling airflow around these two components is sufficient.
It's hard to tell in the pics the way Dave Snow has the ESC installed. It looks like it is vertical in front of the bottom area of the battery tray and doesn't completely block air from under the battery tray. Perhaps, the result is that there is a bit of turbulent airflow under the battery tray for improved cooling and the ESC is seeing fresh air directly on the heat sink.
I would be interested to see the inlet air vents and the exhaust air vents of your plane. Did Dave do any baffling to control airflow in the fuse, or does the inlet/exhaust venting holes provide a good flow of air?
Larry Diamond
Last edited by DRC1; 03-01-2016 at 05:48 PM.
03-01-2016, 06:04 PM
#293
My Feedback: (12)
Larry,
This airplane has no cooling problems whatsoever. I have flown in 90+ degree air and there is more than enough cooling using the standard vents without baffling. The ESC is mounted vertically to the front of the battery tray. Gets a lot of air. Has only been warm to the touch and only mildly so. Also, the ESC does not block any airflow under the batteries. Frankly, of all the concerns I have had about the airplane, cooling is not one of them.
Ken
This airplane has no cooling problems whatsoever. I have flown in 90+ degree air and there is more than enough cooling using the standard vents without baffling. The ESC is mounted vertically to the front of the battery tray. Gets a lot of air. Has only been warm to the touch and only mildly so. Also, the ESC does not block any airflow under the batteries. Frankly, of all the concerns I have had about the airplane, cooling is not one of them.
Ken
03-01-2016, 06:07 PM
#294
My Feedback: (10)
Larry,
This airplane has no cooling problems whatsoever. I have flown in 90+ degree air and there is more than enough cooling using the standard vents without baffling. The ESC is mounted vertically to the front of the battery tray. Gets a lot of air. Has only been warm to the touch and only mildly so. Also, the ESC does not block any airflow under the batteries. Frankly, of all the concerns I have had about the airplane, cooling is not one of them.
Ken
This airplane has no cooling problems whatsoever. I have flown in 90+ degree air and there is more than enough cooling using the standard vents without baffling. The ESC is mounted vertically to the front of the battery tray. Gets a lot of air. Has only been warm to the touch and only mildly so. Also, the ESC does not block any airflow under the batteries. Frankly, of all the concerns I have had about the airplane, cooling is not one of them.
Ken
03-02-2016, 04:50 AM
#296
Does everyone else's canalyzer need two or three sixteenth of an inch shim at the front to raise the incidence up to be at even to slightly positive incidence with respect to the motor and stab? Mine fit horribly stock.
Send some one pics of your final tcan fit and how you secured it laterally to make it solid with the fuse without adding too much weight for the job in the process. I just propped up the leading edge with a Popsicle stick shim for the first flight but need to make a better and laterally stiffer final cradle to secure it with, I think.
I'd like to get others thoughts on their final Tcan adjustments, etc.
Send some one pics of your final tcan fit and how you secured it laterally to make it solid with the fuse without adding too much weight for the job in the process. I just propped up the leading edge with a Popsicle stick shim for the first flight but need to make a better and laterally stiffer final cradle to secure it with, I think.
I'd like to get others thoughts on their final Tcan adjustments, etc.
03-02-2016, 05:00 AM
#297
My Feedback: (12)
Mine needed to be shimmed as well. There are a couple of wedges of balsa to do the job. What I found helped a lot is to take wing saddle squishy foam tape and use it as a cushion between the T-can and the airframe. It is stout enough where you can screw the T-can down pretty good. It actual adds more surface area for the T-can to rest against and that adds a bit of strength to the assembly.The other thing I thought about doing was going to the hardware store to get some rubber washers.. or servo grommets to screw the T-can against. That was option two for me. Had to do all of this because I accidentally broke off the shims Dave S. made for me when I was playing with the T-can incidence...
Last edited by kdunlap; 03-02-2016 at 05:02 AM.
03-02-2016, 10:02 AM
#300
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Lots of great info on this page
http://suddenlink.net/donramsey/
Just did this but I crossed the cables to move the exit point back. Aligned everything horizontally as described in the link. Then mounted a cable on the rudder and held it above the servo arm to find the fore/aft location of the holes.
http://suddenlink.net/donramsey/
Just did this but I crossed the cables to move the exit point back. Aligned everything horizontally as described in the link. Then mounted a cable on the rudder and held it above the servo arm to find the fore/aft location of the holes.