ltc

My Feedback: (3)

What is the range of incidence that you ended up with ?

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

LOTS!
I did a few measurements before I committed to drilling the fuselage holes and gluing the rear adjusters. By the time I was finished I could adjust the wing from -2 to +3 degrees. Much of this due to the amount of material I removed from the fuse that allows the carbon tubes to move up and down. Because this was the first time I ever had to install adjusters I spent a bit of time verifying my measurements. I suppose you could be more lenient if the rear stabs were adjustable.

The only credit I can take for the this job is the final assembly and photos, 32Ford really set me on the right path.

Dave Harmon

What is the name of the digital incidence tool....not the Pro Smart??
Pretty slick.

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

I have two digital measure devices. One of them I've had for 25 years and it t was sold under the name "Pro Smartlevel". Back in the day it was a one of a kind tool. We build a fixture to mount it into a Robart incidence meter, worked well but it was heavy. I recently purchased a new one from F3A ( http://www.f3aunlimited.com/anglepro...-meter-efla280 ) it works well, though not as accurate as my old rusty dog. But, it is much lighter in weight.

Dave Harmon

Great!
I didn't know Mike had these....I'll check it out.
Thanks a lot!

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

Another popular gauge is the Wixey WR300
http://wixey.com/anglegauge/index.html
I prefer the original Type 1 over the newer Type 2 (capacitive vs MEMS)
Bryan Hebert sells an adapter (3D printed I believe) that allows it to be mounted on the standard Robert incidence bars.

Dave Harmon

Thanks.....I have a couple of Wixey gauges and they work well.
i screwed a small piece of angle iron to the the bar and zeroed the iron to the bar on a surface plate.....but....I always worry that the Wixey will fall off the iron if I bump it and the magnet lets go.
I'll look at Bryan's site and see what he's got.

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

Bryan's tool
https://www.ckaero.net/tools.php
(he also has an adapter to check engine thrust angle, but it's not shown on the site)

I took an old 1/8" thick steel machinist rule, cut it to length, drilled and tapped the top of the Robert bar and attached it. The Wixey seems very securely held in place.

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

We're almost finished with all the big and small stuff, just a few small details left. I saved the battery tray installation for last as many have suggested and it appears 260 mm fore of the rear canopy mounting is a good starting point.

I chose the F3A battery tray along with the new Handy Dandy quick removal brackets that Mike Mueller began offering a short time ago; http://www.f3aunlimited.com/gator-rc...ket-kit-grcrtb

These little critters are slick, and for the price he charges, he's not making any money.

I used my favorite adhesive, Loctite 1C for small jobs and used it to mount the brackets to the fuselage. It's now very easy to remove the tray if necessary.

karlwatt

My Feedback: (14)

Which control horn is for the elevator and which for the aileron?

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

If memory serves me correctly I thought they were all the same size, not 100 percent certain.

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

Sorry, double post.

Bubblehead575

I have built several BJ planes and There should be 3 horns supplied and 2 are the same and are for the ailerons, The Rudder is the stand alone. It also tends to be shorter and longer..

So if you check the distance from the tang that is glued in to the control surface, to the hole in the horn. The Rudder is the longer distance.


Hope this helps

karlwatt

My Feedback: (14)

I have three different horns. Pretty easy to identify the rudder, only one. The elevator and aileron horns are different. I think I figured it out by closely looking at pictures on this thread, the elevator horns are a little longer and straighter than the aileron.

luckymacy

I’m ‘bored’ with my etude and I like to tinker. Anyone modified one for a contra drive and care to share any details or results? Theoretically, besides the obvious nose job to take out the right thrust, what else would likely need to be done? Widen the trailing edge of the rudder?

wattsup

My Feedback: (1)

I've got a question about the ithrust angles in the nose of an Etude. From the pictures above, it appears the nose has some degree Positive thrust angle and the usual 2.5 degrees of right thrust. Most pattern lanes today carry approx. 0.5 degrees of down (negative) in the nose. Or is it difficult to tell from pictures?

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

I followed the contour of the nose as integrated in the kit.

wattsup

My Feedback: (1)

So, let me also ask you this. If you installed the motor/firewall by following "the contour as integrated in the kit", did you also set the wing incidence according to directions? Finally, based on all your efforts, how well did it fly? Of all the available ARF's out there, IMHO the Etude is the absolute best VALUE for any flyer wanting to get into pattern. Keeping in mind the Etude is a direct descendant of the popular Nuance, it will be my next choice. I really appreciate you answering my questions.

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

If I built another one I would factor in to add in .5 -1.0 degree of right thrust. I mixed rudder with throttle for stall turns, not much. If you look closely at my photos of the Etude I added a carbon fiber plate behind the firewall to prevent crushing the wood if you're considering using a Himax motor. For the money you can't buy a better motor.

The kit includes a wing and stab incidence guide, and yes it's a guide, not perfect but it's good starting point. I chose to use aluminum BJ Craft adjusters on the front and the stock ones on the rear.

In my opinion the Etude is best plane in the line up for the money, not question about about it.

I know F3A Unlimited has been out of stock for quite some time now, and I can't give you any guidance as top the ETA. You might want to reach out to Mike Mueller @ 800-591-2875

wattsup

My Feedback: (1)

Just out of curiosity, do you know of any other flyer with an Etude that is running the Falcon CF 19.5x13 3-blade prop in conjunction with a Himax or for that matter any other outrunner motor? If not, which prop has served you the best? Like you, I have a feeling there is more to this particular pattern plane than we are aware of! I do know Mike at F3A Unlimited. He has been a personal friend for years and yes, he is a great guy to do business with. BTW, he is pretty good Masters flyer to boot! Again, thanks for the response.

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

Other than me, no I don't.....
Mine was equipped with a Falcon 19.5 x 13 and a Himax 210.
I must admit I am bit biased toward Mueller as well.

wattsup

My Feedback: (1)

VERY NICE! Most of my flying is from a grass strip also. I really appreciate the fact that you took the time to answer my questions. Looking forward to flying with you one day!

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

I might add one more thing. In my limited experience and frankly crappy landings I've taken the approach to strengthen the landing gear plates in a number of planes as well for a few I've built for others. This a pretty simple process and has worked out well.

wattsup

My Feedback: (1)

That is one of the more innovative fixes for the weakness that unfortunately plagues most 2M pattern planes. Carbon plates can be very messy to cut out but are well worth the effort for the sake of adding strength and support without a lot of increase in weight. I've followed all of your responses and pictures and YES is does help anyone who is building not only an Etude but just about any 2M pattern plane. Thanks for your extra effort.

mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

After learning how to cut carbon fiber plates on one Caelus I found a Dremel Diamond wheel ( https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/545-diamond-wheel ). I normally use a helper to hold my vacuum crevice tool close to the carbon plate while I cut. I cuts through carbon fiber faster than you can imagine. I've built four sets, all similar design without a failure.
I love Loctite HP 60 epoxy for this type of work. It's clear, viscous and dries in 60 minutes, and it will not run.