captinjohn

Whats the Ebay no? Was it a new short block or complete runable engine? Thanks Capt,n

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It was a used HC160A Hedge Clipper complete 21.2 cc

flyrc100

My Feedback: (131)

Its gone now, no number to report,, it was a shiny new shortblock, no flywheel , no coil, no intake, no carb.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I found it. That one ended about 12 hrs ago.

It was a SB 1027 for the blower PB2400.

It is 23.6 cc like the hedge clipper ones from the store.

There was one last week that came from the same store. It sold for around $26. He didn't make much money?

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Capn John,

Yes, the black line is a pulse line to the carb. The plugged off line in the header pipe is for a future smoke system. The muffler is mounted to the firewall because that seemed the easiest to do at the time. I was a little worried about the firewall/engine interface having vibration and causing muffler or header cracking, but everything is so stiff and tight in the setup it hasn't been a problem.

This particular engine has been ported and tweaked, and turns an APC 16 x 8 prop over 9000 rpms. Pulls the big Katana very nicely in the verticals. It will go until I give up and hammer head out because the airplane is getting too small. I'm not into 3D so I've never propped it for 3D and can't tell you how it hovers, but it sure pulls this 12.5+ lbs. airplane around nicely!

Nope, still no new engine here yet. I'm hoping Tuesday after the holiday now.

Thanks,
AV8TOR

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

av8tor, The cylinder seems to be turned 180 from the sb1034 I received. The boss you used for a pulse line is on the aft end of my cyl.

George

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Flipflop, What material is your carb adapter made from? Do you plan on selling any of them? I have some OEM on the way but would rather have the twister style for better carb. alignment.

George

flipflop

The carb adapter is made from G-10. The problem here is that most of you guys aren't going to want to pay as much for an adapter as you paid for the engine

captinjohn

Is a twister manifold really needed? Seems like a belcrank wil work. Capt,n

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I often use a bell crank and never worry about twister manifolds. Quite often the twister manifolds place the mixture needles forward and you can't adjust them with the engine running. Some people don't adjust the needles with the engine running, but that is such a pain that I prefer to just be extra careful and go ahead and dial them in with the engine running.

I'm not sure how much it costs anymore, but there is another material I think would be good for carb adapters. It is called "Delrin". Check with "Aircraft Spruce and Specialty" in California.

EDIT: Yeah, I just checked. Here's the url: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../delrinrod.php One foot of 2" diameter Delrin rod costs $20.80 and would make at least 12 carb adapters. You can check with them, as sometimes they have cut offs, or "drops" of materials that they will sell cheaper.

AV8TOR

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Guys the G10 board isn't that bad from McMaster Carr. I have also been using black Acetal from them also. Just a bit lighter and seems to machine a little easier. Cost me a little less also.

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Another way to do it from Ralph is to cut the threads off of the crank. Then bore and tap the crank for RH threads. I am going to try that method as I prefer the looks of the one piece hubs I make.

flyrc100

My Feedback: (131)

The Delrin is high dollar Nylon. It should work fine except Im not sure if it can handle the heat. Has anyone actually tried it on an engine?

captinjohn

tim220225: Can you post a photo fo what your crank adapter looks like? Sounds like a good idea. Capt,n

flipflop

Worked my bunns off yesterday (that's a lot of work) on my prop hub. This is version 1, I say that because I've already figured out a better way of doing it for version 2.

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Capt,n

Have not done the deed yet. I am finishing details on my 35% Carden Edge and getting ready to cover it. When I am done with that I will get back to my conversions. The mill and lathe are lonely. D&B Engines makes his 61cc twin that way and Ralph has done his that way too. I intend on cutting the threads off the crank. Chuck it in the lathe using my collet chuck, setting up the steady rest and face it off. Then center spot and drill slow with a cobalt bit and thread it 5/16-24. At that point I will make the hub the same way as always. One piece with a separate timing ring. only difference on install is to use a bolt to tighten the hub and Loctite on the first time. Then after it sets up i will remove that and use a stud. Also thought about threading the stud in the crank and threading the crank side of the hub as usual. That may be the better way to go. No worrying if the Loctite fails and I remove the hub. Not likely but.... Maybe Ralph can add his wisdom here. Here is a picture of a 21cc Echo I did. When I am done it will look the same if I use the internal stud route. I like the timing ring this way. I can mount the sensor anywhere and time with ease.

Tim

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Flipflop,

Looks great. I assume you left the LH threads alone and use a nut underneath. True? Any pictures showing it apart if that is the way you did it?

Tim

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Hi flipflop, Your prop adapter looks great. How did you work around the L/H thread? I have my short block flywheel "Shroud" trimmed off. Keep us informed about your progress.

George

captinjohn

WOW! Very nice work on both hubs you guys. Sure wish I had the machines and know-how to do as good. It must be a good feeling to do the nice work you guys did. Best Regards Capt,n

flipflop

My hub is going to use a LH nut and the taper. Done properly the only loads the nut will see are tension loads while the taper handles all the torque loads. Ralph says he just uses the taper on his 289cc. race engine, I'll be making a good bit less power than that. Hopefully, my LH nuts will get here in the next couple of days.

captinjohn

flipflop: Where did you order the left-hand nuts. I need them also. Thanks Capt,n

flipflop

http://www.mcmaster.com/

captinjohn

How is this for hubs? 6061 round stock.



Coating Thickness
.001" to .002"

Diameter
1"

Diameter Tolerance
±.003"

Length
12"

Length Tolerance
±1/16"

Tolerance
Standard



Temper
T6511 (Before Anodization)

Hardness
Rockwell C70

Yield Strength
40,000 psi

Temperature to Maintain Strength
-320° to +300° F

Specifications Met
Military Specifications (MIL)

MIL Specification

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Capt,n

6061 aluminum is fine for hubs. The T6 is the hardness rating. I buy mine as cutoffs usually from local shops or off of ebay. I also use 7075 aluminum and have had better luck with that for the prop washer. Just a little harder than 6061. For the hubs I make the smallest diameter I buy is 1-1/4 inch. I have made some for people using the mag ignition and had to turn the bigger stuff down to just under 1 inch. Either way when you figure what you can pay for the stock you will have a hub for less than a dollar. Plus a little time.

Tim

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Hi tim, My parts list does not list a woodruff Key. Any idea what size it would be any wherr to find one?

Thanks George