hamid_fireage

reel109

Hi Rusty,

Are you saying that the 43t belt will not work with the cnc tail assembly. I currently use the 43t setup but will go back to the stock if necessary.

Jim

53 willys

the way I look at it the 43t pulley can only help the HDX300 tail mod????

betapilot

Hey Jim, what I am saying is I have not tested with that gear set-up so I do not know how it will work. Like 53, I think it may help and adjustments can always be made to accommodate but I personally have not tested or flown that set-up so I do not know if it will be too much or how it will react. If I get a chance, I will throw the 43t on one of my kings with the tail mod and do a little testing to see and post my opinions. You know, in a situation like this unless it is first hand knowledge it all just guessing so some testing will need to be done in order to give any definitive answers but I will get them out on the thread as fast as I can.

Hamid - I think you will be okay with the 10t, and the length of the shaft will depend on how tall of a spacer you make, but I will send specs to your email address in a short and you can see if you can make one up, if not I assure you that is no trouble on my part to shoot one out to you for no charge as long as you pay the shipping, it is not about the money dude, its about flying, lol.

hamid_fireage

Thanks Rusty - I will check your specs and try to make one. You and other people on this thread helped me a lot. If I cant install a little motor on little a plastic mount then it would be better try not to fly any helis.

I will send you the results.
Cheers.

Rosebud6

You should get rid of that press on pinion and get one with aset screw. My first pinion on the HBK2 was a press on and its shorter so you have to get it perfect (plus once you put it on, you cant really adjust it like you can with a set screw pinion.) Just my 2 cents.

crashcrash

Just some useless info here: Any pinion (except the steel ones) are either brass or bronze, bronze being harder. Now, press-on's or set screw...doesn't matter. If they become loose, and you can't make them stay put... Remove the pinion from the shaft without destroying it (if possible). Bond some solder to the motor shaft about where the pinion will be, then bond solder to the top of the pinion (make a puddle on top of the pinion and be careful NOT to have the solder run into the splines). Then heat the motor shaft till the solder is liquid on the shaft and with a pair of needle nose pliers...put the pinion on and apply heat to the pinion till it starts to slde on. eventually, there will be enough heat on the pinion and the shaft to slide the pinion down to the desired position. When it's where you want it, remove the heat and continue holding till the solder cools enough to let go of the pinion...allow to cool to room temp. I've done this on pinions that the set screw stripped, and it is removable to allow the installation of a new pinion, the pinion NEVER slips or moves again...unless you add heat. The heat factor isn't that bad on the motor, and the pinion acts like a heat sink while installing it. Unless you have considerable soldering skills....I don't recommend trying it. I'm a mechanic and welder by trade, I can braze, solder, weld about anything if I have to.

betapilot

Here is a pic of the one I did using an hdx tail boom, and one I did using an Eastman shaft. I will post a pic in a minute if I can find it of the falcon boom on a king with the upgrade I just did recently on a boom extension.

hamid_fireage

thanks crash and rosebud6 - My first effort is to make the motor mount. Then going to buy a removable pinion.

I know a little electronics and have three sets of 25W, 40W and 60W solder iron, and have a solder sucker too. But i dont know if the 63sn/37pb solder would stick on brass.

Another thing is; if I lift up the motor by a 2mm spacer then the motor wont hit the front servo horn?

funflier

I notice the hdx300 uses a 40t main pulley so a 43 tooth is going to be a better ratio only by 3 teeth but thats still in the ball park.

funflier

Crash thats a heck of a long discription of sweat soldering it on

funflier

I thought the hdx boom was 9mm. I have what I thought was one here and it measures about 9mm but its only about 275mm long or so and thats too short isnt it. Eastman shaft thats the arrow shaft? From Walmart? Neat as I am going into a Walmart today I will look in sporting goods maybe I can buy just one

funflier

I can make my 8.08 fiberglass boom into 9mm OD by putting some hard sleeve fiber reinforced pvc heatshrink on it, that will take it up to 9mm as I was testing some on one end of a boom where it went into the frame (made it too big).

crashcrash

LOL...when you're actually doing it...it gets a little intense. If you get a cold solder joint, you know it quickly after you spool up. I've had the solderjoint give out, motor goes like crazy, pinion barley turns....heli lands quickly too.

funflier

a welder that made a cold solder joint... noo way
oh wait I did that once on a copper pipe that I didn't clean, lucky I hadn't closed up the wall, one little tiny pee of water so fine you could hardly see it. Would have playes havic with the drywall in about a week.

crashcrash

caused from being over cautious with the motor. I soldered an aluminum pulley to a steel shaft yesterday because I blew out two plastic pulleys (front belt drive pulley). I had to watch that too because of the plastic gear below the pulley....but it works fine so I guess I "pulled it off"

Rosebud6

Sorry for useless babble, just going by my experience with press on vs set screw. Press on was smaller and twisted after a crash, the set screw one has gone through 4 or 5 crashes with out a scratch.

hamid_fireage

Thanks Rusty - I read your sepecs that was realy helpful. I found some cnc machinists in my area and they make this plate with cheap price.
My suggestion was Aluminium but they say TEFLON is better for this duty with cheaper price and easier to work on. I thought teflon is the material used in cooking dishes!!!! Any idea?
And is it ok to make it with 2.2mm thick plate instead of 3. Because if I want to make it with alumn, they have not more than 2.2mm thick plate.

Thanks again

betapilot

Teflon would be fine, like I said I have used tupperware as a good spacer, I think the you will be okay at 2,2 also, the lower profile you can get it with the proper clearances the better you are.

joizeex

so i messed around with pitch curve today and set it to -2, +5, +9 and now the thing lifts off right around midstick just like my Evo50! sooo much better and more familiar to fly. i dunno why i used the same curve as the stock radio before. duuuuhh.

i also moved things a bit to pack everything better, so the stock canopy fits with more ease. i still wanna get a bigger one. anything from Trex or Blade that's lil bigger than stock and compatible? those are the only ones LHS sells.

i also ordered myself a walkera 4#3B for those rainy days. it's a bit shorter than a HBK stock blade and has 4ch. all i need is a sub-micro Airwolf body lol

betapilot

These fit perfect and are cheap

betapilot

sorry, it is the blue one that is the king, they also come in red, yellow, white and carbon fiber.

Rosebud6

I like that last one Beta. Is nice. I have not had a chance to test out those settings on the Danlion for the DX7 you sent me. Will let you know how it goes.


Quick question on CNC heads. Should I add some type of Lube to the swash ball and main shaft? As i recall, the plastic swash had some type of lubricant in it, but its been so long since I've had a new plastic swash for my HBK2 i cant remember if it did. Just wondering cuz the EXI MA450 I just put together is bone dry in that area. Metal to metal seems like it would wear out real fast without anything in there.

joizeex

i really like that blue one, red would prolly be easier to see. what is it (the canopy, not the heli)? is that what you sell?

not a fan of bare carbon fiber though. my 1:1 Evo's wing's airfoil comes as such, but that's about as much of bare CF as i can stand lol.

Rosebud, a lil oil is always good for many things. heh heh heh. i would use a couple of drops of "3-in-1 oil" found at Home Depot. it's in a white plastic bottle or metal can usually. it's thicker than WD40 spray version, so it stays on longer. put it on the swash bearing, ball, and shaft. i would also put it on the rear tail shaft where the slider goes. just use small amounts and wipe excess.

funflier

the metal swash plate is packed with grease on the inside for life so don't put anyting on the ball or it will wash the grease out and it may start sticking. Oil the main shaft, never oil plastic or nylon parts or any ball links as it not only makes the balls slide easier but also come off easier and we don't want that.