wzak29

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HELP! I just got my head and the push rods and ball links are NOT on the head there in a small bag. I have no idea how or were to install them, I thought this head came assembled.

wzak29

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Joey

I put the push rods on they are not adjusted just take a look and see if I have them on correctly. Also the shaft is to short at the bottom what do I do about this?

Thank’s Bill

joeyhatch11

Looks good so far. It wasn't that bad was it? Having to put some things together is part of the fun and learning curve. Your going to have to do it sooner or later. For now it looks like you just have to get that Esky guide pin on and swap the balls on the HDX swash for your Esky ones. That way your links from the servo to swash will pop on. From there you'll leave the motor disconnected, get the swash level and adjust your pitch.

P.S. Make sure your feathering shaft in the main grips is tight. I'd hate to see that come off in flight. Also, when you get your tail piece, loc-tite the screws holding on the tail blade grips. I had mine come off twice.

joeyhatch11

loosen the collar around the HDX main shaft. That should allow it to drop further in. After you get the gears on and the set screw in, push up on the gears and tighten that collar back down so there is no play. You may not be able to get rid of all the play, your just making sure it's not really loose.

wzak29

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Thank’s Joey, was not as hard as I thought to put the rods on, I did need to use the ball reamer tool to make things move smoothly but was very careful not to over do it. Every things moves smoothly but no slop, Tomorrow I will change the balls on the swash plates and install it in the heli, I will let you know how it goes.

Bill

joeyhatch11

I did try to call but got the answering machine. I just wanted to make sure everything was good and see if there was anything that needed to be cleared up if it was explained right on here. Guess I'll catch you next time. keep me posted. Later, Joe

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Joey, have some problems,

When I put the head on the heli the push rods were about twice as long as needed? I screwed all the ball links all the way in on all three arms to get them to fit the swash plate. The swash plate doesn’t seem to have enough travel, from full up to full down is only ¼”. and on idle up full throttle moves the swash plate all the way up until the brass sleeve almost touches the bottom of the blade grip housing on the shaft. As you decrease throttle the swash plate goes down but bottoms out and stops moving with the throttle only down ¾ of the way down so the last ¼ of throttle stick travel does nothing. Also with the pitch servo when all the way up I can see the swash plate pushrod bend a little but can’t shorten it any more it‘s at max. I know the head linkages are fairly close because I found a manual on this head and it had the pushrods lengths in it so I have them fairly close. Comparing both heads I found that on the old head the distance from the blade grip to the screw that holds on the head is ¼” but on the new head it is 1.5” this is why my swash plate sits so low the three push rods are to long. This is also why I don’t have enough travel on the swash plate it needs to move down more but on my heli it will hit the frame before I get enough travel.

This is the head they sent me (HDX450SE V4 Head System w/Flybar (BLACK) SX450SE-HS1)

wzak29

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When moving the elevator servo the ball link stem hit’s the swash plate and pops off?

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

The elevator servo ball link is hitting the swash plate if you move the swash it will pop off?

wzak29

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Have the problem fixed by bending the elevator pushrod now have full swash movement.

joeyhatch11

hahaha dont do that. I called HeliDirect and talked to one of the tech guys. he said that there may be too much travel on that servo and thats why it's popping off. Bending it I think is going to cause more problems later. I think thats too much of a bend. Check the travel and see if you get more on that one servo than the others. Call me and let me know

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

I tried disconnecting every thing from the swash plate but the elevator servo push rod, could not get the swash to move (tilt up) without the ball link popping off, tried it at many different swash heights same thing. I have noticed that the old swash plate had the arms at a angle to give the ball link room to move the new head does not have this angle. Every thing seems to be aligning fine now with the bent rod. Swash level, washout arms level and blade grips level at half throttle with idle up on. swash plate moves up and down level.

joeyhatch11

Cool that sounds good then. I just thought it might have given you trouble with it bent like that. Sounds like all you have to do now it set pitch. Get +5 at mid stick +10 at full throttle and around -5 at zero stick. That will be a real good place to start. After you install the blades let me know where your pitch is at, at mid stick.

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Joey; HEP! HEP!

I have about had it with head! In normal mode I get +1 +14(off the scale) idle up -14 +10 +14 but if you try to check it again you will get different readings each time. The swash plate stops moving a ¾ throttle because it is all the way up. Servos are buzzing, one bent pushrod to make it work, the gyro starting making funny buzzing sound from playing with so much. The ball links are getting worn out from removing them so many times, the servo push rods are as small as I can make them so there is no room for adjustment. I’m about ready to toss the thing in the garbage and buy a new heli I am so frustrated and angry at it. I can’t get any help from all of the videos I have watched as soon as they run into a problem like mine they show you how to correct it by reprogramming your transmitter settings. I don’t have end point adjustments or swash mix or travel adjustments. This is why I wanted a drop in replacement head I can do fine adjustments but not setup from scratch.

I know you align everything with idle up on and stick in center.

QUESTIONS;

Were do you set the PIT knob on your transmitter?

Were do you set your throttle trim?

This is the big one that I think is giving me problems, setting the swash plate so it is centered on the shaft, what is the first step to get the swash plate centered so it is midway between the max top and max bottom. I keep getting this wrong so the swash plate either hits the top or bottom before full throttle stick movement.

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Joey HELP!

After 5 hours of playing with this thing this is what is going on, there is not enough movement in the swash plate in idle up, the swash hit’s the top and bottom before the stick is at full or minimum. This leaves ¼” of the top and bottom of the stick doing nothing but making the servos buzz. I don’t have a computer radio to adjust travel or end points like all the videos I have watched tell you to do.
nor. mode +12 +6
idle up -6 0 +11

I will not be flying this heli in 3d (idle up) can I just adjust the head for normal mode and forget about the idle up settings, there is enough travel of the swash plate in normal mode.

joeyhatch11

You have to set it up in Idle up mode. Trying to set it up in normal mode will just make things worse. I have a Futaba 7c 2.4ghz radio in my HDX now but when I did the head/tail conversion in my Belt CP V2 I was using the stock transmitter. In idle up mode, at full throttle you want the "wash collar" about 1-2mm from the rotor head. There isn't a certain spot on the main shaft that you use to align the swash plate. My "Hov. Pit" knob use to be set at 3/4. My pitch in Idle up looks like this -13, 0, +13. If the swash is hitting both bottom and top before you get full throttle and no throttle then your links are too long. By shortening the links and bring the swash down, should also decrease your pitch problem. And just so you understand there is no such thing as a drop in head for any heli. You will always find yourself installing links and making adjustments to a head assembly when doing a install. Even if you went with the stock Esky cnc head.

Also turn the gains on the gyro back down to zero. I just checked mine and there both set for zero

joeyhatch11

I'm going to have a friend of mine chime in here and see if he can't make this work for you. He's helped me through out my Esky problems and also helped me understand lot about helis. He has a Esky Honey Bee King so he can relate. Don't get pissed and give up. You'll find the problem and realize how dumb and simple it was. You'll laugh later.

joizeex

wzak, i haven't read that far back, but let's just go over the basics again. always start from the servos and work your way up the linkage chain.
1 switch to idle up, center the throttle stick, center trims on the right stick, put throttle trim all the way down, it'll be used later to fine tune throttle.
2 put the pitch knob in the middle at 0. it'll be used later to fine tune pitch.
3 make sure that links that attach to servo horns are at 90 degrees with servo horns. if not, remove the horns and rotate them as close to 90deg as possible.
4 level the swash using the 3 links that attach to the bottom of swash.
5 check swash travel up and down with a ruler/caliper that it's the same both ways. if it's not the same, shorten or lengthen those 3 links.

now the fun part begins, make sure flybar is always level during this
6 install a pitch gauge and set it to 0 while your throttle stick is still centered. the next few parts may require going back to previous steps. don't check pitch on the blades just yet.
7 you need to level the washout arms with each other (the ones attached to the sliding block) by adjusting the links from the washout arms to the flybar cage.
8 now that they're level, check your swash up and down travel with a ruler/caliper, it may have been affected at the top. if it's not even both ways anymore, adjust the 3 swash links again, but also those washout-to-flybar-cage links until you reach a good compromise between symmetrical travel and leveled arms. it doesn't have to be perfect for your application though, so don't kill yourself over it.
9 now check the blades if they're at 0 deg. if they're not, adjust either the short links from mixing arms (the arms attached to flybar's seesaw) to the blade grips, and if you run out of length on the short links, adjust the reaaallly long links that go from mixing arms to the swash.
10 check swash travel and the resulting up/down pitch. hopefully at this point it'll be even. if not, go back to step 8.

11 switch to normal mode and check pitch at midstick. it should be around +5 +6 degrees. if it's not, use the pitch knob for small adjustments.

J-MICHAEL

+1.................. Hi Joey & Joizeex !

joeyhatch11

Hi Michael!!! Hahaha

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Joey;

Restarted from the ground up;

Idle up on

Pit. Knob at 50%

Throttle trim all the way down, all others centered

Throttle centered

Servos at 90 degrees

Removed swash plate from head connected the aileron and pit push rods to the swash plate but stopped there, because the swash plate seemed like it was binding. When I tried to tilt the swash plate by moving it up and down while holding the elevator ball is was hard to do. Comparing the new swash to the old, I noticed that the old swash arms were tilted outward but on the new swash the arms were 90 degrees (no tilt). What was happening is that the shaft (the part of the ball link the rods screws into) of the ball link was hitting the side of the swash arm when trying to tilt the swash because the swash arms were not tilted outward like the old one. At first I first I thought about bending the push rods like I did on the elevator but thought this was a bad idea. I replaced the aileron and pit balls on the swash back to large originals ones and used the extra ball links that came with the head on the two push rods, this moved the ball links away from the swash arms about 2 mm just enough to clear. Attached the elevator, leveled the swash and remounted the head, WOW what a difference it’s like a different head! Everything moves so freely now. They must have made changes to the swash plate since you bought your head, just for future reference DON’T change the balls on the swash change the ball links on the pushrods, they give you extra ones with the head. Now I believe my problem all this time was that all three ball links were binding so when I made adjustments, it changed how much and where the links started binding making every thing wacky including me. (also the servos stopped buzzing)

Back to the head, made some adjustments to the long pushrods that attach to the inner swash, now travel up and down is centered, washout arms are level with each other, Washout/flybar-cage level, look’s just like the setup video.

PITCH READINGS;

Idle up -10 0 +10

Normal 0 +6 +10 (seems like a little to much pitch? The manual says +7 at full throttle.)

(I will be ordering a new ball for the swash so I can replace the elevator ball and change that bent pushrod for a new one, can‘t use the one I have because it has the guide shaft on it)

I can’t thank you enough for your help and your time.

I am not going to do final adjustments until I get new blades, the ones I am using have plastic spacers on the top and bottom of the root, I had to remove one of the spacers to get it to fit the new head and this my be throwing my pitch reading off a little. Can you post a link to Helidirect for some cheap blades that will fit on this head

Bill

happy-dingo

Wzak, Hope it all works for you now  and your up n flying very soon 

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks happy-dingo, after I found that binding problem every thing else seemed to fall into place, will be ordering a cnc tail upgrade and a few others Friday, Hope all goes well with your upgrade, keep us posted.

happy-dingo

will do and i hope the tail goes smoothly and you dont encounter any more little problems  ..... I hope mines in the mail tomorrow (monday here) ive been waiting over a week for it ....seems like a month hehehe

wzak29

My Feedback: (1)

If you don’t have a swash plate leveling tool try to get one, for me the swash looked level until I checked it with the swash lever and it was off. Waiting sucks, I have to wait until Friday before I can order my parts.