King2Nut

The frame is the same v1 and v2 sothe v2 canopyshould fit the v1, but you will need to order the Canopy Shoring EK1-0428to hold on the v2 canopy.
The shoringscrews into the holes the old canopy mount rod is in.
Link to Shoring: https://www.ushobbysupply.com/produc...roducts_id=989$1.45

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks King2Nut I like the mounting system better on the V2.

Disney1

I think we all like that better.
I am going to order a set of shoring and see what it will take to convert the v1 canopy. Should not be too hard.

King2Nut

Good Idea DIsney.
I think I will do the same.

Tinkman

Hey Guys,
I just got a Belt CP V2 for X-Mas. I'm stepping up from a HBFP V1, so it's a big step for me. Wow! I'd never seen a CP fly before, besides on YouTube. Holy smokes, what a beast. Anyway, I had a question about the HH switch. It appears that my switch is mounted up side down. When it's in the up position (off)tail control is definately tight and snappy. When it's in the down position it's loose, like my HBFP. Is this right? It seems like it should be the other way around.
Second thing, the cyclic doesn't seem as responsive to small movements like I'm used to. There will be nothing, nothing, nothing then all of a sudden she's in full FF or sideways flight. Is this slop from the stock rotor head? Will the CNC upgrade tighten this up?
Thanks fr any advice you can give. I'm sure they'll be more qhestions later.

Tinkman

Tinkman

Where the hell is that Spell Check button?

Tinkman

mbsteed

Just a reminder for new folks to belt cp v2, remember before getting your bird airborne, it is best to replace the esky ESC. I am basically new myself but I know from this forum and others that this has been an ongoing problem - you would think esky would clue in. I had mine for two days of testing on the heli stand and then the ESC failed - plugged the battery up but no motor beep. I swapped the bad esky ESC out for a Volcano 30A and all seems back to normal now. I still have to do some serious work on the simulator before attempting to fly the bird.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I put a different one on my belt CP 1 from the get go from all I read. I have the Hobby Wing 30 amp programmable one. I tried to sale the stock one on eBay and could not get $5 for it. [X(]

Disney1

Replaced mine ASAP when I got my Belt CPv1
I run the Castle 35, love it runs ice cold after two 1800 packs in a row.

46u maybe you should have included a Fire Extinguisher in the deal.

Tinkman

Just had my first tip-over this weekend. No major damage, just scuffed the tips of the main blades but enough to make them un-usable. I ordered 3 replacement sets, 3 feathering shafts, a P30A HobbyWingESC w/ programmer and a pitch guage. (Planning ahead).
I think I'm going to invest in the HDX450. There's way too much drifting with the stock head. I was noticing while setting up the swash plate that the servos don't return to center after a full cyclic movement like they should. I'm not sure if it's binding somewhere or what. I think that's what's causing the drift.

Tinkman

46u

My Feedback: (3)

For my V1 I got 7 sets of the stock wood blades for about $3.50 each shipped.

Tinkman

That's a sweet deal. Where did you get them?

Tinkman

46u

My Feedback: (3)

You asking me about the CF main chassis?

What is a good micro digital servo that is not too expsensive between $20 to $30 each?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Any one ever tried these?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUDS3&P=7

Tinkman

I was asking about the blades.

Tinkman

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I got them off eBay.

Disney1

That is a "Steal of a Deal" for blades.
I am flying Fiberglass 325's very nice, fast responce and the ones I have gotten so far needed no balancing.
I actually like them a lot better than woodies.
https://www.ushobbysupply.com/produc...oducts_id=1008
https://www.ushobbysupply.com/produc...oducts_id=1013

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I looked last night to see if I could find those blades on eBay but sorry I could not. I know they are not the best but I think they will do find to practice with and like we said they are cheap so when I mess up a set I will not fill too bad. LOL

Disney1

I agree 100% cheap while learning is good.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Disney1 I did the DX6i set up you sent me over a year ago but was wondering if you recommend a EXP or servo travel for first time fliers? I know I did this on my E Flite MSR and made it much more tame to start with. I did it as dual rate so if I want stock settings all I have to do is flip the dual rate switches.

Tinkman

Hey guys,
I'm looking to upgrade to a CNC head and would like some feedback on which one to get. I've already heard that the ESky head isn't that great. I've also heard some people talk about the Copter X head and also the DHX450V4 head. Right now I'm leaning toward the HDX450.
Any thoughts?

Tinkman

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I do not know if this will work on a V2 but this is what I got for my V1. Jeff at cnchelicopter is a very help full person. He and I talked back and forth about this head by email before I bought mine. Not cheap but it is made from 7075 alloy not 6063 like most.
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...-CP-CNC/Detail

mbsteed

I hope someone on the forum can help. I was experimenting with my heli on my test stand that I created by using a cheap laser level tripod and then put one of my weights on it for ballast. See the image below.

I cranked the elevator stick all the way back and the blades hit the horizontal boom fin as depicted in the images below.

My question is how did this happen and there must be a way to constrain the amount of movement in swash plate to avoid that much movement..

My replacement blades are even a little longer than the stock blades so I am worried I will hit it again.

Suggestions?

Tinkman

Hey MbSteed,
I'm new to CPs, but by the looks of your test stand I'm guessing the constrained movement of your heli caused the strike. When the heli is free to move about, duringfull rear cyclic the body of the bird is able to tilt back and swing away, allowing it to move away from the rotor. If you had a programmable tx you could probably restrict the movement of the servos, or if not you could temporarily move the tail control rod up closer to the servo's axis to shorten the throw.

Tinkman

Sorry, I don't know why I was thinking about the tail servo, I ment to say the three cyclic servos. They control the swash plate, so if you move each control rod closer to it's servo's axis it should reduce the throw. This of course would probably mess up your alignment, so it doesn't seem like avery practical solution.

Tinkman

Disney1

The problem you experienced will re occour if you use full throw while on a test stand.
The heli cannot reactto the input of the blades so the blades will move out of the normal plane of rotation
This is normal for any helicopter whether a model or full scale.