joeyhatch11

If the blades dont fit you can always file them down a bit. On my HDX450 Head, the plastic blades I was running fit but it was a tight fit, after some light sanding around the edges, they were good to go.

Blitzer Fan

well with the stock E-sky blades its just to wide with the plastic thing on..withouht them..the hole is a slight bit to big for the screw(some movement) i dont know if its safe flying like that?..i might try and sand one of these broken ones and fit them see if it works...but im going with 325mm just because people say its more stable with bigger blades

KaChow

My Feedback: (3)

RE; XHeli.com
I've ordered from them Several times,and 4 times were large orders $ Wise,and Everytime it's been A PLEASURE,No Problems,everything was what I ordered,etc. Customer support has been "Johnny on the Spot" also. Just goes to show there's good and bad dauys for everyone,ANYTIME you aren't there PERSONALLY for the sale,it's a CRAP SHOOT!
Hopefully you have GOOD luck wherever you shop,it does SUCK when you get screwed,but,I think it's just alot of factors that cause us to have bad experiences.

zethlol

Hi i just baught the 2.4 ghz version of the CP v2. I put in a new ESC a 40 amp volcano series to replace the 25 amp one it comes with the link it here.  http://www.xheli.com/40abrelmospc.html   
But after flying it outside for a few mins the moto was flaming hot, the ESC was rly hot and i got a 40 amp one to help prevent the overheating and the battery was pretty hot too. im new to larger rc helis so i was wondering if this is normal for these 3 components to be getting so hot.

joeyhatch11

Are you able to temp it and get some numbers? My belt cp v2 is running on a 30amp hobbywing ESC and the ESC only gets at most 110 and thats flying pack after pack. One thing that will make everything your running really hot is if the lipo has a low "C" rating. You need to run at least 20C, I'm on 25 and everything stays nice and cool. Motor is getting around 140-150.

zethlol

yeah the battery im using is the stock 11.1 volt 1800 mah 20C lipo. when u said ur motor was around 140ish after the flight, i dident know that was normal temp for a motor because thats still rly hot if you touch it by hand. as for the ESC i cant rly get any temp readings because i dont have an IR temp monitor but it was hot enough to start melting the glue behind the sticky tape stuff to hold it to the frame. i added some glue from a glue gun to the back of the tape because i used the tape from the 25 amp esc it game with. I am going to try a few thigns like the ESC im using has 2 plates on the inside that look like there for cooling to help distribute heat so i took the ruber off one of them without exposing the chip itself and that part sticks out so while the heli is flying the air from the downdraft with help cool it. i might make a heatsink for it too. For the motor since that gets hot and once i get better at flying im going to use a first person veiw pilot system to fly around my neighborhood (which ill need a better battery for too) im gana see if i can get a small laptop cooling fan and mount it right in front of the main motor with a AA battery or somehing to help keep the motor cool.

joeyhatch11

I'm going to take some pics of my heli and show you what I did. This help ALOT and I advise you do the same. If you had a temp gun you'd ***** after you see the difference. Be back soon...........

joeyhatch11

I was able to cut the heat shrink off around the metal heat sink plate. I also used the zip tie to help hold it in place. But it does have tape too to help with vibration. You'll see on the canopy I have a small hole drilled out for air to pass through and hit the ESC, which works great. I also made a small opening on the top to help keep the motor temps down. With the heat shrink gone on the ESC and the hole cut in the canopy, I went from 210 to 110/115. Again that 110/115 is running pack after pack. With maybe a 3-4minute break in between. The motor was around 180 before and now she's running a cool 145. So get that heat sink exposed on the ESC and open up your canopy a bit to let it breath. Also note though while hovering and not doing so much fast flight the temps do get a little hotter but nothing like they were before.

joeyhatch11

Here's some more with the canopy on.

zethlol

thanks for the quick replies, ill try that out and see how it goes. mainly im learning how to flying so im mostly just hovering atm but once i start flying around the air will flow through the holes in the canopy and be really helpful to keeping the electronics cool.

4wd13

has anyone else had the problem where the main blades keep striking the tail boom? ive gone throught a set of blades and two tail booms this week because of this.

joeyhatch11

Yeah I've gone through about 10 tailbooms in the past 4 months because of that. I was told to tighten up the main blades and if the heli goes down there will be less of a chance for them to rail the boom. I was also using plastic blades at the time too. Because of the flex in them, they could be tight or loose and it wouldn't matter, it would still kill the boom in a crash. Since I installed the fiberglass main blades I havent had an issue. I even had one really bad crash where both main blades were destroyed and the boom was unharmed.

4wd13

ive been using carbon blades, and ive had to crank down on the screws for them to be tight. i was wondering if it was something to do with the head setup. it is opposite than every other heli of this size ive seen. the main blades are lower than say the blade 400 or exi 450. it seems likt the heli's that have the flybar below the main blades wouldn't have this problem. do people with the honey bee or the original belt have this problem? is this just an esky thing?

joeyhatch11

All brands of heli and even sizes can give you boom strikes. I have the Bely CP V2 with the HDX450SE head. I got boom strikes with both the stock head and the HDX head. Its just part of the game. Just dont keep them too loose and you should save some booms that way. Joe

Blitzer Fan

Joey can you take a pic of your blades please?(the filed down ones) im interested in what you did to make them fit..because only way i can get mine to fit is by removing the plastic bit (but then the hole for the screw is to big)

joeyhatch11

I wish I could, but I'm now running some new fiberglass blades that fit perfect in my HDX Head. With the plastic ones I was running, I didn't have to file anything down, they were just a tight fit. I've read that some people had to file certain blades down to get them to work in the HDX head, but I lucked out on that one. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with though. Joe

Blitzer Fan

well i got some blades that fit my CopterX head(finally) and so i was able to test the new head and tail out atlast! and WOW is there a difference...its so easy to control..and its windy today..i honestly cant be any happier with this thing! now i just need more batteries so i can fly longer!!

4wd13

quick question for all. the small screw that ghoes through the head an main shaft. what size is it? i had a blade strike and lost what was left of it. im assuming its 2mm x 12mm.

joeyhatch11

Without a manual I couldn't tell you dude sorry. But if you look up the Head piece for it I'm sure it'll list what it comes with and give you screw lengths as well.

dillweed

Hey guys, Have been flying my Belt cpv2 on the stock fm radio and to my suprise it works quite well. but I'm looking to put my futaba 6ex 2.4 on it. Can anyone help me with some setup numbers for this heli and radio combo. Thanks-

joeyhatch11

I have my new Futaba 7C that I got 2 weeks ago. I haven't done much as far as adjusting all the menus but I did change "swash" menu to 70% for a fast throw on the servos. At the stock 50% if felt like I was controlling a co-axial. Not fun at hi speeds. Other than that I pretty much left everything alone. Hopefully before X-Mas I'll set-up my Idle ups and start trying some loops and rolls. Maybe even some funnels.

ntyn1208

I am new to Belt CP V2, just to know whether I can use Li-Po battery with 2500mAh 22C 11.1V for Belt CP V2? Someone claim that the ESC might not be able to handle 2500mAh 22C, is it true? Pls help, thanks a lot!

zethlol

First thing you should do when you buy a belt cp v2 is replace the ESC with at least a 30 amp one because the one it comes with is known to get really hot really quick and catch on fire. To be safe and to be able to fly longer/ with bigger packs i baught a 40 amp exceed ESC from Xheli.com. With the 40 amp you can run that battery no prob although the ESC still gets hot and i recommend cutting the rubber part off over the metal plate heat sink so that it has some airflow to remove the heat. What i did was cut the rubber part off over the plate and i installed a small heatsink on top of the flat heat sink using thermal gel.

joeyhatch11

My stock ESC went in under a minute when i got mine and that was on the stock Esky lipo. I upgraded to the HobbyWing Penutium 30A and start using 1800mah 25C lipos. Temps stay low with a 10T pinion too. I've since upgraded everything on the Belt CP and it's now a HDX450SE. Loving the new frame and all the HDX cnc parts. The stock Esky didn't last long once I learned to fly. But I do think the stock ESC would handle the 2200 lipo you have, the question is how long?

zethlol

Another thing is that it also depends on where you live. I live in Orlando, FL and right now its really hot outside and that just makes the ESC even more hot. If you live somewhere where its cold you can fly on the stock ESC longer but where i live it would prolly catch fire in 30 seconds. The first thing i did when i baught the heliw as replace the ESC. I'll try to post a pick of what i did to my ESCto help keep it cool.