RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: lohchief


I'm not really plugging for Spektrum...I've had Futaba for better than 20 years, never had a prob. I did hear the DX7 had problems out of the gate and new processors had to be installed. I've owned 2 DX6 units and they BOTH have/had CCPM issues, my newer one still does but I learned how to set up a heli to get full function and avoid the CCPM problem. Kinda hard to explain the CCPM problem but if you set the PHN setting above 80% and/or the THN...she glitches pretty hard thru the rudder servo...don't know why, but both my DX6's did it. I have FULL idle-up and normal mode capabilities right now....just gotta watch how high I put those two settings. SInce I don't do inverted/3D/loops/rolls, it hasen't been a problem and extream 3D aint never gonna happen with me flying unless it's me trying to prevent a serious crash after totally loosing control. I've found/heard that Horizon (importers for Spektrum) always deny any problems, and are VERY reluctant to back up the product....a good reason to go straight to Futaba. I've delt with Horizon's tech staff and it's safe for me to say....I know more about these R/C EP heli's than the guy I talked to (I won't say the whole staff....that wouldn't be fair). In other words....support on Spektrum products....forget it unless you bought it directly from them, and then it's a 50/50 shot. I own a DX6 because 1. Got it CHEAP. 2. programming for many heli's easily available...including MX-400/ARK-400/T-Rex/Blade CP/CP-Pro/Falcon 3D/HBKII/and so on.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: crashcrash




I know your not plugging for spektrum bro,LOL.There seems to be a ton of setup info out there for the dx series,as opposed to the 7c.That alone had me really considering getting the dx7,which by the way is a good radio system.I think it suffers from mass production/backorder blues:D The other day while surfing for info on these,I read that the 6exh and the dx6 were based on different,older radios.Where as the 7c,and the dx7's are all new,with little carry over from their past models.In either case,I'm sure that once demand eases off a bit,things will improve.
-lohchief

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

crash,

I just bought a DX6i today, where would someone find the program profiles for the HBKII. I have done some googling since I read your post, but I didn't see any specific posts on exact procedure.

Casey <- Total noob!

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

It is a bit of a conundrum- you can't turn around without tripping over someone that has a Spektrum radio, so lots of help out there. This is the first I've heard of glitching at high deflections, though. I'm getting more comfortable recommending the 6EX, even though it doesn't have as many adjustments as the DX'.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Ken you always talk about all your crashes but you fly smoooooth, good job keep the vids coming.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

LMAO.....really kicked over a hornets nest here. DX6i settings.....I MIGHT know one person who has them (settings for HBKII). He's a road type guy out of the LA area...I'll ask him since he's one of the guys I knew that had one and didn't like it real well. The DX6i was supposed to be the bridge system that was between the DX6/DX7. Futaba....all I can say is, even though settings are not commonly posted for many heli's, it does come with a manual and Futaba support is pretty good. Personally I would go 6EXH if I had a do-over. I've got 4 AR6000's (God only knows why, cause I don't need but 2-3 of them), so I guess I'm sticking with it. I would strongly recommend any Futaba series radio that supports CCPM EP helicopters. I have NO experience, nor have I read any reviews of the DX6i so for me to comment on it would be pointless with the exception of the importers and they're shortcommings. I do know a guy who uses the 6EXH on the HBKII. Programming was a little tough, but he got it....and I can get settings for it if needed.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Hmmm .. I wonder if I can transfer my deposit over to a JR or a Futaba. I was thinking that it wasn't the cheapest TX in the store (read limited feature set w/ no model memory and not 2.4Ghz), nor was it the 2,100.00 Futaba that was glowing with a pretty full color display .. I swear that thing was running some kind of Siren Song OS because I wanted to drool on it then sacrifice the lives of several Argonauts, and maybe even risk divorce to bring it home. ..

Casey

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Doh...

My Bad .. I will attempt to keep my noobness down to a minimum, thanks for the feedback ..

Casey

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

I hope I wasn't one of the hornets :). I sat back for a bit on the 2.4GHz stuff and played around with a 6EX in the meantime before putting a lot of money into it. After reading and listening a bit, I decided the FASST and Futaba support was going to keep me in the fold even if it was more expensive. I was coming from flying with a 9C for a long time, and never having a problem with it.

Casey, nothing to worry about. One of the things that made an impression on me was the difficulty people had setting up Spektrum radios with CCPM helis. For comparison, this is how you set up a Futaba for 120 CCPM:

1- set the model type to heli, swash type to 3-S for a 6EX, SR-3 for a 7C or 9C.
2- plug the side servos into channels 1 and 6- doesn't matter which into which.
3- plug the elevator (centerline) servo into channel 2.
4- plug the ESC into channel three and unplug the motor
5- plug in the battery
6- go to the servo reverse menu
7- move the cyclic (right) stick side to side; if the left and right servos move the same direction, then reverse channel 1 or channel 6. Doesn't matter which one, just make the side servos go in opposite directions.
8- move the cyclic stick front to back; if the elevator servo goes in the same direction as the pitch and aileron servos (i.e., the swash goes up and down instead of tilting), reverse channel 2.
9- go to the swash AFR menu
10- move the cyclic forward and back; if the swash turns forward when you move the stick back, then change the sign of the ELE AFR (if it is +50, make it -50, for example)
11- move the cyclic side to side; if the swash tilts left when you move the stick right, change the sign of the AIL AFR number.
12- move the throttle stick forward and back; if you get increasing negative pitch when you move the stick up, then change the sign of the pitch AFR number.
13- switch to idle up (linear pitch curve), move the throttle switch forward to the mid point, and unplug the battery from the heli.
14- move the pitch arms on the servos to flat.
15- adjust the linkage lengths from the servos to the swash to get zero pitch on the main rotors.
16- plug the battery back in and adjust your pitch range using the PIT AFR.
17- adjust the maximum swash deflection to what your manufacturer recommends by increasing or decreasing the ELE (forward and back) and AIL (left and right) AFR.

These are a few steps, but it's obvious after you've done it once- you get the servos moving right relative to each other, then you match the control movement up to the transmitter sticks. Do it once by the above steps and you won't have to refer to anything the second time. It's crazy easy once you see it work.

Sorry, crashcrash- I would have been more helpful when you were setting up the King if you'd been using a Futaba :D.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Not mine but I have posted it before what I used to setup my dx7 thought it might help

DX7 SETUP FOR BELT HELI

* Before setting up, bind your receiver to the transmitter. This is done by plugging the bind plug into the BATT socket in the receiver. Then plug the battery to the esc and/or bec. Then press the transmitter bind button at the back as you turn on the transmitter. Wait for the flashing receiver lights stabilize. When it has bound, the esc will arm. You can release the bind button. Turn off the transmitter and unplug the heli’s battery. Remove the bind plug from the receiver.

I. System Setup Mode

1. Enter the System Setup Menu by pressing Scroll Down and Select keys while turning on the transmitter.

2. Press UP or Down keys to navigate.

3. Go to [TYPE SELECT] and choose HELI for your model.

4. Go to [MODEL SELECT] and assign a model number for your heli. Use the Increase or Decrease keys to toggle between choices.

5. Go to [MODEL NAME] to assign a custom name. Use Increase or Decrease to select letter. Press Select key to move to next letter.

6. Then press the Down key to go to [SWASH TYPE] menu. Use Increase or Decrease key to toggle to 3 SERVOS 120º.

7. Next go to [INPUT SELECT] menu by toggling UP or Down keys. It should be
AUX2>AUX2 and GEAR>GEAR.

II. Function Mode

1. Enter the Function Mode menus by pressing Down and Select keys after turning on the transmitter.

2. Use the UP or Down keys to toggle between menus.

3. Go to [REVERSING SW] menu to set your servo reversing switches.

Ch1 : Throttle (esc)
CH2: Aileron (left cyclic servo)
CH3: Elevator (front or rear single cyclic servo)
CH4: Rudder (gyro)
CH5: Gear (gyro remote gain cable)
CH6: Aux1 (right cyclic servo)

*Note that this is for individual servo reversing. For collective cyclic reversing, go to [SWASH MIX] menu.

4. Go to [SWASH MIX] Menu. Use Select button to toggle between functions.

5. Initially set AILE, ELEV at 100%. – or + values changes the servo directions. Set PIT value so that you get maximum + and - pitch without bottoming mechanically or have the servos buzzing. Again – or + values reverses the collective direction.

6. Leave EXP in INH.

7. Go to [TRAVEL ADJUST]. Use Select key to toggle between functions.

8. For THRO, set High (H) value just high enough so you get a max motor output (ESC led flashes) at max stick input. At times, this can be less than 100%. Set Low (L) value just low enough that the esc arms. At times, this is less than 100%. This provides best throttle resolution.

9. AILE, ELEV, and PIT. adjusts the cyclic servo maximum throw. Always adjust all three pairs of H and L in identical values. Values for AILE, ELEV, and PIT. must also be identical. This ensures no unneeded output interaction when controlling the cyclic action. You can adjust these to give you more or less cyclic angles. Max these out without having the servos buzzing. Recheck these settings after centering the servo arms at mid stick using the [SUB TRIM] menu.

10. Adjusting the RUDD endpoints, controls the piro rate not the servo throw. Remember that the servo receives a command signal rather than a proportional
signal. Adjust L and R piro rates so that you get the same piro rate turning left or right. IT is normal to exceed 100% for both values.

11. GEAR is used to adjust gyro gain. + value is hh mode. – value is rate mode. Set these initally at +72% and -28%. Readjust after a test hover.

12. AUX2 is unused for now. The channel is unavailable in the AR6100. The switch, however can be assigned to a function like throttle hold. This frees up the use of the Rudder D/R switch for other functions like dual piro rates.

13. Go to [SUB TRIM] menu.

14. Adjust AILE subtrim to center the left cyclic servo in mid throttle stick.

15. Adjust ELEV subtrim to center the front or rear single cyclic servo at mid stick.

16. Adjust PIT. Subtrim to center the right cyclic servo.

17. Adjust the RUDD subtrim if servo arm drifts in hh mode during tests.

18. Leave [AUTO D/R EXP] in default settings for now.

19. Go to [D/R & EXP] menu. Use Select keys to toggle between functions. Use Increase or decrease to change channel and change values.

20. Expos if used changes command sensitivity. + values makes command less sensitive. Lower value down to a negative value increases sensitivity. More sensitivity makes the heli twitchy. Full stick, however always yields the maximum programmed servo throw.

21. AILE and ELEV expos affect the cyclic. RUDD affects the piro or turn rate.

22. D/R adjusts the maximum servo arm travel of the affected functions. Reducing AILE and ELEV rates for example reduces the maximum swash plate angles. These can be toggled in flight using the marked D/R switches. Leave these at 100% for now for both on and off switch positions of the various D/R switches.

23. Note that you have two switch positions for both expo and dual rates. Toggle the
actual physical switches when setting values for each switch position. It will be indicated in POS-1 or POS-0.

24.Go to [PITCH CURVE] HOLD. Use Select key to move between throttle positions. Use Increase or Decrease keys to change values. This menu sets the main blade pitch range when the Throttle hold switch is turned on. This gives you maximum positive and negative pitch. This is useful for setting blade pitch using a pitch gauge. Mid stick is zero degrees.

25. Note that 0 to 50% gives you negative pitch. 50% to 100% gives you positive pitch. 0% is maximum negative pitch. For most helis this is -10 deg.

26. In HOLD position, set pitch range as 0-INH-50%-INH-100%.

27. Go to [PITCH CURVE] ST-2. This is for 3D. Set this for maximum head speed and fast collective response for flipping, tic tocs, etc. The S-curve is ideal for this.

28. Set ST-2 at 0-15%-50%-85%-100%. This is an S-curve. Pitch rapidly changes around the mid stick for fast vertical transitions.

29. Go to [PITCH CURVE] ST-1. Let’s keep this linear. Set it at 0-INH-50%-INH-100%. This give a smooth and predictable collective response. This is good for sport flying and mild aerobatics.

30. Go to [PITCH CURVE] NORM. Let’s dial out negative pitch or at least most of it for proper spool up. You can put a few degrees of negative pitch if desired. I prefer zero on spool up. Set this at 50%-50%-50%-INH-100%. This gives zero degrees pitch up until mid stick. Then pitch increase above it.

31. Go to [THRO CURVE] ST-2. You can keep this flat for max head speed. Or use a conservative v-curve for moderate speed. I use 100%-INH-80-INH-100%.

32. Go to [THRO CURVE] ST-1. Set this so that you get a comfortable hovering speed. I set this at 100%-INH-60-INH-100%.

33. Go to [THRO CURVE] NORM. Keep this linear unless you have an unusual motor response. Set this at 0-INH-50%-INH-100%.

34. Go to [THRO HOLD]. Use Select key to toggle between throttle hold value and desired activating switch. Set throttle value at -5.%. It is a negative value to ensure that the throttle is zero in case the esc setting drifts. Choose your desired switch. I selected SW: RUDD D/R simply because I am used to that position. You can use AUX2 if you wish to use the RUDD D/R for dual piro rate control.

35. After all settings are final, bind your receiver to the transmitter once more while keeping the transmitter sticks in your desired failsafe settings. This does away with the cyclic servos being crooked and buzzing while the receiver arms.

36. Fine tune after your test flight.

37. Go fly your heli! Congratulations.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

thanks for the complement...being an 'old-fart', i'd rather not 'bank and yank' -- and i'm not good enough to 'bang the sticks' (except when i lose orientation)...lol...i used to be a heli instrument instructor...maybe that's why i still enjoy standard-rate turns, rolling-out on heading, hovering circuits, etc...my 'cameraman' and i are still learning how to use my 12.1mp camera...ken

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Were you at mother rucker?
-lohchief

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Hey I have a hbk2 and I use a dx6i but it would take me for every to type all that is there any other way, that sucks I type so slow.( can i copy and paste it)lol....:D

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

20 to 30 mph wind today[>:]

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Thanks for that! I have a Dx7 on the way and that will be a great starting point. I remembered seeing it somewhere, but I surf a few different forums and have trouble remembering where I saw what.

Which radio to buy seems to be as big of a debate as which sim is the best, which motor to use, or which heli to start with. I guess it shows how versatle these things are, and how many options there are.

Also Crash, I bought one of the hardened shafts from Michael, been waiting till my crashes are few and far between to install it. I think it is about time.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

If it's on your computer, you can cut and paste to the thread...I do it all the time.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Ooooo....boy!!! [X(]I just bought a Futaba 6ex fasst. 3days ago. flew for the first time yesterday....but there was no other flyer with the spectrum around, so nothing happen. After i read the above notice about Futaba... bout the failure, then i check my tx serial number...guest what... no i (inspect) sticker on it....arghhhhh[:@]. Tomorrow gonna find out with a few buddy that are using Fasst tx.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Thats why I posted the notice. You'll only get in trouble if there's another radio around that will bother your radio. My neighbor has a CX2, but he's the only one around that flies anything...but I do have to deal with a communications tower at the prision 4 miles away that uses FM....most likely why I cannot run a stock radio where I live.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Yeah....no flying outside today. Once this front pushes thru...we should have a few good low wind days....I'd like to see a few 55deg days here and have a massive snow melt so I can fly planks in the field.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Guys 1 question...! how do i reset the esc using 6ex...? it still in brake in mode( bibi bibi bibi).... with the original TX just easy....on tx put max throttle then plug in the batt to esc, give the throttle a couple of movement, walla its set with the bi bi bi. Can i fly the heli with the esc un set...?

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Try moving the throttle trim to mid point and the throttle all the way up...that should take care of getting you into programming mode. Sometimes it won't read the stick as full throttle if the throttle trim is bottomed out....been there seen that.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Futaba TX's usually have to have the throttle channel (3) reversed.

George

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

I've check....found that the the n-pitch curve 1- 40% 2- 45%. Gotta set back to 0%-1 25%-2 50%-3 75%-4 100%-5. If still cant i'll try your method Crash. Thanks Crash and George i already reversed the servo for throttle thanks :).

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

hi lohchief...yup...i was stationed at rucker a coupla times -- once with the instrument division at hanchey aaf...around 1967, i landed my ugly stick on the roof of a barracks bldg one sunday...good ole boys from the rucker fire station saved my butt...wife baked them cookies...everyone was happy...ken

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

qwereca- the pitch curve is fine at 40-45-.... You need to look at the throttle curve (n-th). That's what's going to the ESC. For programming it should be 0 at the bottom, 100 (or more) at the top, and as George noted, the throttle channel should be reversed. The trim should be centered, and end points set to maximum.

Before you make any changes you might want to write down what the old values were, by the way.