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Clan .24cc update now running.

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Old 08-17-2011, 01:54 PM
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nitroairplane
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Default Clan .24cc update now running.

Hi tonight i won an gee-bay auction for a clan cruiser for the clan 0.24cc it also came with an engine that was the clan 0.24cc now i know the engine is terrible as two of you have already warned me i do not plan on keeping the engine but i may give it a few tries and if it fires ( i am sure it wont) i will put it on the model.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...84.m1439.l2649
What do you think i should do?
thank you,
nitroairplane

edit.
i have recieved the engine and i tried to run it today and it started after only about 5 mins of trying on a 5 by 4 prop.
it runs great i have a video of it running really rich but anyway here it is.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlWo6zNaRRI[/youtube]
Old 08-17-2011, 02:18 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Congratulations.
You won't know if the engine has a problem or not until you actually try to run it. it may work perfectly  well and be a fine engine.


Old 08-17-2011, 02:46 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Some Clan engines had production fault, the transfer port can not open due the port was closed by the piston in whole time without "pop" sound when flicking the propeller.
Old 08-17-2011, 02:50 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

I have two of them, both of which run great and are fine little engines. The Clan's somewhat undeserved reputation is based on several things:
    [*]Some of them had a manufacturing flaw which prevented the bypass from opening. Theseare definite non -runners! But there weren't too many of them. Chances are that yours won't be one. To check, turn it over slowly andlisten for the crack as the transfer port opens when the piston descends. If it cracks open, you're fine. But even if it's no go, this is fixable if you have the equipment and skill.[/list]
      [*]A lot of people don't appreciate the importance of cleaning these tiny engines thoroughly after use. The smallest anount of castor oil gum in the bypass or needle valve, and you're dead! If the thing won't start, this is the first thing to check. It's easily fixed - take the thing apartand clean it! It's even more easily prevented - clean it thoroughly after use! I wash my engines in Varsol after use and then give them some time in an ultrasonic cleaner with methyl hydrdrate (eliminates the diesel aroma completely). After this,oil with either Rislone or air tool oil. An engine treated in thsi way will never gum up.[/list]
        [*]Another potential problem is a base leak. If there's any leakage from the backplate or cylinder base, you may have trouble with starting. Easily checked by rotating the engine with the case immersed in solvent. The fix is to make new gaskets as necessary.[/list]
          [*]Use a fuel with plenty of ether - at least 35%. The small engines really need plenty of ether. [/list]Good luck!!
Old 08-17-2011, 03:01 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

ORIGINAL: Diesel Die-hard

Some of them had a manufacturing flaw which prevented the bypass from opening. These are definite non -runners! But there weren't too many of them. Chances are that yours won't be one. To check, turn it over slowly and listen for the crack as the transfer port opens when the piston descends. If it cracks open, you're fine. But even if it's no go, this is fixable if you have the equipment and skill.
Be carefully to make the transfer port higher with a dremel + small diameter grinding stone and a wood stick or aluminium rod inside the cylinder to make a right height of the transfer port. When the job is done, remove the grade away from edge of transfer port with a balsa knife and lap the edges smooth with copper lapping rod + chrome polishing paste in some few rotations, not more. Do not lap too far into the cylinder, until top of transfer port only! Wash all parts free for all dirty job and oil and assembly the engine ready to run.

The transfer height is 7.1 mm or use the 15mm aluminium rod with 6,4 mm diameter and length 12,4 mm and put into the sleeve from top of the cylinder as a stopper against the grinding stone in right height. Use smaller than 3 mm grinding stone.
Old 08-18-2011, 12:20 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

ok i hope the engine works if not it will sit on my shelf next to the troublesome AE .1cc until i get it fixed.

Old 08-31-2011, 08:37 AM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlWo6zNaRRI[/youtube]
Old 08-31-2011, 02:28 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Well done! Thanks for posting.
Old 08-31-2011, 06:08 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Glad to see that you had some good luck getting one that runs.
Congratulations. Thanks for sharing the information too.
Old 08-31-2011, 10:37 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Now for the AE 0.1
Old 09-01-2011, 08:48 AM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Ah yes, the AE 0.1 ..................... the tricky part of getting one of them started is the fuel mixture. You have to avoid flooding at all costs. First make sure that you have no base compression leaks - that kills them stone dead. Make sure that the transfer ports "pop" when you turn the engine over by hand slowly. Then get theengine firing on a VERY small prime without opening the needle at all. Finally, start opening the needle a bitat a time, trying to get a start each time. Eventually it will keep running when you hit the correct needle setting (rather touchy on these engines). The thing is to start from toolean (rather than too rich) and work upwards.

Once you have a bit of fuel and oil in them, I find that these really tiny engines start well on a prime of straight high-ether starting fluid (John Deere or equivalent) administered from an aerosol can. This prevents them from getting overloaded with oil and alsokeeps the volume of each prime to the desirable minimum. Use a fuel prime about every fifth try to keep some oil in the engine. Once they start up, the incoming mixture supplys ample oil.

You also need a fuel with a higher-than-normal ether content. 35% is the minimum at this size.

Good luck!!
Old 09-01-2011, 12:03 PM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

I have started the little AE .1cc
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku02z5YRuj4[/youtube]
It still does not run much better than it does at the end of that video the longest run i have ever gotten out of it is about 40 seconds and it did not run the tank dry i believe the problem id the venturi/crankcase seal it is terrible i have tried every thing that i can think of: gaskets,sealant larger screw etc.
i think that i need to use some JB weld to hold it in properly but then i would have the problem of the terribly coarse NV thread so i think that my best bet is to JB weld a cox .010 venturi and needle vale assembly into it and use a .010 spring starter for it.
i have also run my little AH .1cc on the same fuel but do not have a video of it hopefully i will get round to recording it sometime this month i am very busy.
I also have the Ronald Valentine 0.098cc that i have only run briefly so i will need to record that.
So many engine not enough time.
(if my family are reading this Xmas is coming up well sort of and i have my eye on a Mills 0.07cc by Derek Giles or a Blitz .05 by Valentine)
Old 11-02-2011, 01:20 AM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Hi Nitroairplane

Did you ever get your AE .1cc sorted?
Old 11-08-2011, 11:12 AM
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Default RE: Clan .24cc update now running.

Not properly there has never been a good seal between the venturi and crankcase.
I am looking for another AE to see if I just got a bad one.

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