HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
03-18-2011, 04:54 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: sgbfly
Hi George,
I see the the esc question has been answered, ie. use the card, timing mode medium and soft start. Set the esc throttle endpoints.
As for the gyro. My understanding is the Detrum GY48V is like the HK401B ie a gy401 clone. The setup would go something like this.
First of all ensure a good mechanical setup - tail slider in the middle and the centre of the ball link on the tail servo horn about 7mm from the centre of the servo horn fixing screw. Set up the gyro as follows. Set the delay to zero and digital micro switch to on (as you are using a digital tail servo).
Now on the transmitter ensure that the endpoints (E.Point) on channel 4 are 100% (also no dual rates / expo / subtrim / trim). Go to the ''gyrosens'' menu on the second page of the setup options and turn this function on selecting state = act, model = GY and enter the two values (uprate & down rate - this will be the gear switch) for avcs and normal say 75% and 60% respectively. That’s your gain for HH mode and rate mode respectively.
Now power up the helicopter with throttle hold on. I believe the gyro will light up and led if its in HH mode and the led stays off if not. Toggle the switch to find out which is which. If you would prefer it the other way round you can reverse the ''gyrosens'' settings (uprate and downrate) or reverse channel 5 on the tx.
With the gyro in normal mode set the limits on the gyro screw so that when you appy maximum rudder the slider just stops short of binding. Check both left and right.
Now check the directions if you apply right rudder the tail slider should move left (towards the belt) and vice-versa. If this is not the case reverse channel 4 on the 9x transmitter.
Now check the gyro response (best seen in HH mode) - move the heli by hand so the nose moves right then the gyro will try to correct using left rudder so the tail slider will move right towards the tail blades. If this is not correct flick the reverse micro switch on the gyro.
There are no transmitter settings that can override the switches or dials on your gyro. But the settings gyro and tx settings are both important.
Before test flying toggle the gyro switch mode (gear) on the 9x 3 times (from rate to HH) so it resets the gyro trim sensing. If you find the piro rate too fast reduce the endpoints in the transmitter CH4. If you get tail wag reduce the gyro sens value for avcs 1% at a time and test. If you get drift even after the gyro has acclimatised (20 mins) try increasing the avcs % value.
When flying, most prefer the gyro in HH (avcs) mode.
HTH
Simon [img][/img]
ORIGINAL: Gothic
Ok Fellas, I need you guys to ''hold my hands'' now.
I have my 450 installed with all the electronics. Now I'm a little confused about the setup. I have the Turnigy 9X programable transmitter. My question is do I need to make adjustments to the settings on the gyro it self ? If so what settings should I use? And do I need to use the ESC program card I have or just use only the T9X to set up? I'm a bit worried that if I use the T9X for the settings and the Gyro controls aren't in the correct position my control would not be accurate. Is this a confusing question?
G.
Ok Fellas, I need you guys to ''hold my hands'' now.
I have my 450 installed with all the electronics. Now I'm a little confused about the setup. I have the Turnigy 9X programable transmitter. My question is do I need to make adjustments to the settings on the gyro it self ? If so what settings should I use? And do I need to use the ESC program card I have or just use only the T9X to set up? I'm a bit worried that if I use the T9X for the settings and the Gyro controls aren't in the correct position my control would not be accurate. Is this a confusing question?
G.
I'm using ESC - Scorpion Commander 60A with wireless program card
Gyro - Detrum GY48V
3 Servos - EXI 9g Digital
Tail Servo -Emax ES9257 20g Digital
Motor - GForce E450-3500KV Brushless
I see the the esc question has been answered, ie. use the card, timing mode medium and soft start. Set the esc throttle endpoints.
As for the gyro. My understanding is the Detrum GY48V is like the HK401B ie a gy401 clone. The setup would go something like this.
First of all ensure a good mechanical setup - tail slider in the middle and the centre of the ball link on the tail servo horn about 7mm from the centre of the servo horn fixing screw. Set up the gyro as follows. Set the delay to zero and digital micro switch to on (as you are using a digital tail servo).
Now on the transmitter ensure that the endpoints (E.Point) on channel 4 are 100% (also no dual rates / expo / subtrim / trim). Go to the ''gyrosens'' menu on the second page of the setup options and turn this function on selecting state = act, model = GY and enter the two values (uprate & down rate - this will be the gear switch) for avcs and normal say 75% and 60% respectively. That’s your gain for HH mode and rate mode respectively.
Now power up the helicopter with throttle hold on. I believe the gyro will light up and led if its in HH mode and the led stays off if not. Toggle the switch to find out which is which. If you would prefer it the other way round you can reverse the ''gyrosens'' settings (uprate and downrate) or reverse channel 5 on the tx.
With the gyro in normal mode set the limits on the gyro screw so that when you appy maximum rudder the slider just stops short of binding. Check both left and right.
Now check the directions if you apply right rudder the tail slider should move left (towards the belt) and vice-versa. If this is not the case reverse channel 4 on the 9x transmitter.
Now check the gyro response (best seen in HH mode) - move the heli by hand so the nose moves right then the gyro will try to correct using left rudder so the tail slider will move right towards the tail blades. If this is not correct flick the reverse micro switch on the gyro.
There are no transmitter settings that can override the switches or dials on your gyro. But the settings gyro and tx settings are both important.
Before test flying toggle the gyro switch mode (gear) on the 9x 3 times (from rate to HH) so it resets the gyro trim sensing. If you find the piro rate too fast reduce the endpoints in the transmitter CH4. If you get tail wag reduce the gyro sens value for avcs 1% at a time and test. If you get drift even after the gyro has acclimatised (20 mins) try increasing the avcs % value.
When flying, most prefer the gyro in HH (avcs) mode.
HTH
Simon [img][/img]
Can't wait to hoover !
G.
03-18-2011, 06:19 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: jnail
Simon, sorry to poach your answer, but I have a question about setting the endpoits for the rudder, because I am actually using an align servo on my tail that is slightly large for the 450, and it makes my tail scary fast. Does expo work on the rudder? I would like to still have the ability to piro fast if I want to, but I would like to tone it down a bit in the middle. Can I do this?
Thanks, jeff
Simon, sorry to poach your answer, but I have a question about setting the endpoits for the rudder, because I am actually using an align servo on my tail that is slightly large for the 450, and it makes my tail scary fast. Does expo work on the rudder? I would like to still have the ability to piro fast if I want to, but I would like to tone it down a bit in the middle. Can I do this?
Thanks, jeff
Hi Jeff,
Setting a lower "Dual Rate" on the rudder will reduce the maximum piro rate... and yes expo does work.... I have 30% on my GT2 which has crazy piro rates... but the expo tames it down just for small inputs and normal flying...
Setting say 70% on your rudder rate basically does the same thing as end point adjustment...
03-18-2011, 06:58 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: sgbfly
Last one for today.......
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLxF3noyl9E[/youtube]
G'nite all!
Simon
Last one for today.......
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLxF3noyl9E[/youtube]
G'nite all!
Simon
The heli is so light it flys with less blade angle most of the time so you have to throw it around more to get the Blade slapping.. but it definately will coming out of a loop!...
Yes, Helicopters are 'Chick - magnets' - especially forcute Blondes.. That had me laughing in your video!
You need Brian's Yellow T-shirt with the Red Warning to keep the spectators at bay...
A great dane hit your throttle? Don't you hate that!
Right after the end of this video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6mvB2UGdAI
when I had turned the camera off, the young boy touched my transmitter faster than I could stop him and my heli spooled up while iwas holding it...
I got a litlte bit cranky with him...
Awesome progress mate!
03-18-2011, 08:13 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
Hey guys, im thinking about picking up a 450 clone. Im currently learning on a Blade SR and am building a Tarot 500 right now. Im thinking about selling the SR and buying a 450 clone as its a much better bird to learn with, and their cheaper to fix then the 500's.
Anybody have any esperiance with the Titan 450's on e-bay? Are they manufactured by the same company (Skaya? I think?) as the Hobby King and EXI models? Should I just buy the RTF Titan or should i buy from Hobby King and build it myself. Just looking for a beater remember to learn and practice new things with. But I want full metal head/tail and prefer belt drive. What should I get?
Anybody have any esperiance with the Titan 450's on e-bay? Are they manufactured by the same company (Skaya? I think?) as the Hobby King and EXI models? Should I just buy the RTF Titan or should i buy from Hobby King and build it myself. Just looking for a beater remember to learn and practice new things with. But I want full metal head/tail and prefer belt drive. What should I get?
03-18-2011, 08:54 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: mmurray70
Hey guys, im thinking about picking up a 450 clone. Im currently learning on a Blade SR and am building a Tarot 500 right now. Im thinking about selling the SR and buying a 450 clone as its a much better bird to learn with, and their cheaper to fix then the 500's.
Anybody have any esperiance with the Titan 450's on e-bay? Are they manufactured by the same company (Skaya? I think?) as the Hobby King and EXI models? Should I just buy the RTF Titan or should i buy from Hobby King and build it myself. Just looking for a beater remember to learn and practice new things with. But I want full metal head/tail and prefer belt drive. What should I get?
Hey guys, im thinking about picking up a 450 clone. Im currently learning on a Blade SR and am building a Tarot 500 right now. Im thinking about selling the SR and buying a 450 clone as its a much better bird to learn with, and their cheaper to fix then the 500's.
Anybody have any esperiance with the Titan 450's on e-bay? Are they manufactured by the same company (Skaya? I think?) as the Hobby King and EXI models? Should I just buy the RTF Titan or should i buy from Hobby King and build it myself. Just looking for a beater remember to learn and practice new things with. But I want full metal head/tail and prefer belt drive. What should I get?
The advantage of building the heli, is that you know how to put things back together WHEN you crash, because you will!. If you do got the route of the RTF, make sure you tear it apart and locktite everything anyway. These factories rarely do this properly. Also, i would go through all the setup videos/websites anyway. Normaly RTF isn't usually RTF, they will need some adjustments
There are plenty of people here to help you out when/if you need it, so don't be afraid to ask questions. Welcome to your new addiction!
Jeff
03-18-2011, 09:18 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: mmurray70
Hey guys, im thinking about picking up a 450 clone. Im currently learning on a Blade SR and am building a Tarot 500 right now. Im thinking about selling the SR and buying a 450 clone as its a much better bird to learn with, and their cheaper to fix then the 500's.
Anybody have any esperiance with the Titan 450's on e-bay? Are they manufactured by the same company (Skaya? I think?) as the Hobby King and EXI models? Should I just buy the RTF Titan or should i buy from Hobby King and build it myself. Just looking for a beater remember to learn and practice new things with. But I want full metal head/tail and prefer belt drive. What should I get?
Hey guys, im thinking about picking up a 450 clone. Im currently learning on a Blade SR and am building a Tarot 500 right now. Im thinking about selling the SR and buying a 450 clone as its a much better bird to learn with, and their cheaper to fix then the 500's.
Anybody have any esperiance with the Titan 450's on e-bay? Are they manufactured by the same company (Skaya? I think?) as the Hobby King and EXI models? Should I just buy the RTF Titan or should i buy from Hobby King and build it myself. Just looking for a beater remember to learn and practice new things with. But I want full metal head/tail and prefer belt drive. What should I get?
Hi, it might seem daunting to build your own but I strongly recommend it..
That way you know your machine and you know it has been put together correctly....
There is plenty of friendly help avaiable here and on youtube and other forums...
Welcome to the thread!
03-18-2011, 09:23 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
A SUGGESTIONFOR ALL...
There has been a wealth valuable information posted throughout this thread and also many useful links to online sources of parts..
EG Brian's Barnfloor.com and the site for cheap Spektrum Receivers..
BOB's dual tail slider
Simons one piece skids.. etc etc..
I often find it tedious to sift back through the hundreds of posts to find the link (yes I should bookmark it I know..)
But here is an idea?
If everyone wanted to (at their leisure) PM me with some of of their favourite sources I will create a single web page that contains all the links. with credits to the relevant person of course..
(I will sift back to the beginning now and start it based on what is already here)
It will be a work in progress and i will update it with any future "useful finds"
Thoughts??
Brian, I had 3 of the Spektrum 6100E Receivers turn up today and they look to be the genuine item ( sorry I don't have the link you providedwhere I bought them from)
I will range test them fully later today and post the results..
There has been a wealth valuable information posted throughout this thread and also many useful links to online sources of parts..
EG Brian's Barnfloor.com and the site for cheap Spektrum Receivers..
BOB's dual tail slider
Simons one piece skids.. etc etc..
I often find it tedious to sift back through the hundreds of posts to find the link (yes I should bookmark it I know..)
But here is an idea?
If everyone wanted to (at their leisure) PM me with some of of their favourite sources I will create a single web page that contains all the links. with credits to the relevant person of course..
(I will sift back to the beginning now and start it based on what is already here)
It will be a work in progress and i will update it with any future "useful finds"
Thoughts??
Brian, I had 3 of the Spektrum 6100E Receivers turn up today and they look to be the genuine item ( sorry I don't have the link you providedwhere I bought them from)
I will range test them fully later today and post the results..
03-19-2011, 05:56 AM
#2883
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
A video of the 450 MT with the Servo adjustment as recommended by Brian.. it is definately better...
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7yeb-M70lc[/youtube]
And I failed my 6 week "no buy" moratorium..
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWBzvGfAKf0[/youtube]
I will do a full review of the DX8 tomorrow.. in a nutshell.. it is awesome.. I have already flashed it to the latest firmware which gives full DSMX support and I have range checked it...
With the BEAST Parkflyer- 680 Meters line of sight
With a 6100E RX - 1.26 Kilometers
With the supplied AR8000 - full connection at 3 Kilometers... Telemetry dropped out at 2.55 Km (all measured by GPS today)
Nite all.. gotta give wifey some "Quality time now" - payback for her helping me with the range checks... Urrggh
03-19-2011, 06:26 AM
#2884
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
Nice Flying Rob, Simon and Brian well done guys
Rob these are what My HK450GT Rubber Dampers looked like after only 3 flights
Be better using some TrueBlood Red Dampers
some othe cheaper models have this sort
Be better using some TrueBlood Red Dampers
some othe cheaper models have this sort
George
03-19-2011, 07:45 AM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: Jolly-Swagman
Nice Flying Rob, Simon and Brian well done guys
Nice Flying Rob, Simon and Brian well done guys
Rob these are what My HK450GT Rubber Dampers looked like after only 3 flights
Be better using some TrueBlood Red Dampers
some othe cheaper models have this sort
Be better using some TrueBlood Red Dampers
some othe cheaper models have this sort
George
03-19-2011, 10:28 AM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: Rob2160
A SUGGESTIONFOR ALL...
There has been a wealth valuable information posted throughout this thread and also many useful links to online sources of parts..
EG Brian's Barnfloor.com and the site for cheap Spektrum Receivers..
BOB's dual tail slider
Simons one piece skids.. etc etc..
I often find it tedious to sift back through the hundreds of posts to find the link (yes I should bookmark it I know..)
But here is an idea?
If everyone wanted to (at their leisure) PM me with some of of their favourite sources I will create a single web page that contains all the links. with credits to the relevant person of course..
(I will sift back to the beginning now and start it based on what is already here)
It will be a work in progress and i will update it with any future "useful finds"
Thoughts??
A SUGGESTIONFOR ALL...
There has been a wealth valuable information posted throughout this thread and also many useful links to online sources of parts..
EG Brian's Barnfloor.com and the site for cheap Spektrum Receivers..
BOB's dual tail slider
Simons one piece skids.. etc etc..
I often find it tedious to sift back through the hundreds of posts to find the link (yes I should bookmark it I know..)
But here is an idea?
If everyone wanted to (at their leisure) PM me with some of of their favourite sources I will create a single web page that contains all the links. with credits to the relevant person of course..
(I will sift back to the beginning now and start it based on what is already here)
It will be a work in progress and i will update it with any future "useful finds"
Thoughts??
Its a good idea. I'll send you some info next week
A video of the 450 MT with the Servo adjustment as recommended by Brian.. it is definately better...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7yeb-M70lc
And I failed my 6 week "no buy" moratorium..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWBzvGfAKf0
I will do a full review of the DX8 tomorrow.. in a nutshell.. it is awesome.. I have already flashed it to the latest firmware which gives full DSMX support and I have range checked it...
With the BEAST Parkflyer- 680 Meters line of sight
With a 6100E RX - 1.26 Kilometers
With the supplied AR8000 - full connection at 3 Kilometers... Telemetry dropped out at 2.55 Km (all measured by GPS today)
Nite all.. gotta give wifey some "Quality time now" - payback for her helping me with the range checks... Urrggh
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7yeb-M70lc
And I failed my 6 week "no buy" moratorium..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWBzvGfAKf0
I will do a full review of the DX8 tomorrow.. in a nutshell.. it is awesome.. I have already flashed it to the latest firmware which gives full DSMX support and I have range checked it...
With the BEAST Parkflyer- 680 Meters line of sight
With a 6100E RX - 1.26 Kilometers
With the supplied AR8000 - full connection at 3 Kilometers... Telemetry dropped out at 2.55 Km (all measured by GPS today)
Nite all.. gotta give wifey some "Quality time now" - payback for her helping me with the range checks... Urrggh
Shame about the watery eye. I had itchy nose syndrome when flying this afternoon
Simon
03-19-2011, 11:47 AM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: Rob2160
A SUGGESTIONFOR ALL...
There has been a wealth valuable information posted throughout this thread and also many useful links to online sources of parts..
EG Brian's Barnfloor.com and the site for cheap Spektrum Receivers..
BOB's dual tail slider
Simons one piece skids.. etc etc..
I often find it tedious to sift back through the hundreds of posts to find the link (yes I should bookmark it I know..)
But here is an idea?
If everyone wanted to (at their leisure) PM me with some of of their favourite sources I will create a single web page that contains all the links. with credits to the relevant person of course..
(I will sift back to the beginning now and start it based on what is already here)
It will be a work in progress and i will update it with any future "useful finds"
Thoughts??
Brian, I had 3 of the Spektrum 6100E Receivers turn up today and they look to be the genuine item ( sorry I don't have the link you providedwhere I bought them from)
I will range test them fully later today and post the results..
A SUGGESTIONFOR ALL...
There has been a wealth valuable information posted throughout this thread and also many useful links to online sources of parts..
EG Brian's Barnfloor.com and the site for cheap Spektrum Receivers..
BOB's dual tail slider
Simons one piece skids.. etc etc..
I often find it tedious to sift back through the hundreds of posts to find the link (yes I should bookmark it I know..)
But here is an idea?
If everyone wanted to (at their leisure) PM me with some of of their favourite sources I will create a single web page that contains all the links. with credits to the relevant person of course..
(I will sift back to the beginning now and start it based on what is already here)
It will be a work in progress and i will update it with any future "useful finds"
Thoughts??
Brian, I had 3 of the Spektrum 6100E Receivers turn up today and they look to be the genuine item ( sorry I don't have the link you providedwhere I bought them from)
I will range test them fully later today and post the results..
Thanks!
Joaquin
03-19-2011, 03:02 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: Rob2160
A video of the 450 MT with the Servo adjustment as recommended by Brian.. it is definately better...
A video of the 450 MT with the Servo adjustment as recommended by Brian.. it is definately better...
A further thought on this. I recall seeing the mounting of your new gyro looking a little flexible. I wonder if you were to make the mounting a little more rigid if it would improve things further. Perhaps as an experiment try tightening a cable tie rround the gryo & boom to hold it more rigid. If this improves things then you know to go back to a more standard single layer of foam tape. If the is no difference snip away the cable tie and continue as was.
Just a thought mate and there is probably no mileage in it.......
Simon
03-19-2011, 06:27 PM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: sgbfly
Hi Rob,
A further thought on this. I recall seeing the mounting of your new gyro looking a little flexible. I wonder if you were to make the mounting a little more rigid if it would improve things further. Perhaps as an experiment try tightening a cable tie rround the gryo & boom to hold it more rigid. If this improves things then you know to go back to a more standard single layer of foam tape. If the is no difference snip away the cable tie and continue as was.
Just a thought mate and there is probably no mileage in it.......
Simon
Thanks Simon,
We are on the same wavelength..... I was thinking of removing the metal plate and just using one layer of foam... The expert in the local hobby shop told me a few months ago that the metal plate was not needed in electric helis.. only the nitro birds...
Re the moratorium and Lent... pure coincidence for me.... but the 3 kids have all given up something for Lent..
1.Son -Potato chips (chocolate is still allowed - he was quick to clarify)
2. Daughter 1 - Eating Her Broccoli
3. Daughter 2 - Eating her Carrots
Kinda misses the point I think???
Anyway, I have just registered www.RC450.com and will commence on our "resource link" site... also open to any other ideas.
ORIGINAL: Rob2160
A video of the 450 MT with the Servo adjustment as recommended by Brian.. it is definately better...
A video of the 450 MT with the Servo adjustment as recommended by Brian.. it is definately better...
A further thought on this. I recall seeing the mounting of your new gyro looking a little flexible. I wonder if you were to make the mounting a little more rigid if it would improve things further. Perhaps as an experiment try tightening a cable tie rround the gryo & boom to hold it more rigid. If this improves things then you know to go back to a more standard single layer of foam tape. If the is no difference snip away the cable tie and continue as was.
Just a thought mate and there is probably no mileage in it.......
Simon
Thanks Simon,
We are on the same wavelength..... I was thinking of removing the metal plate and just using one layer of foam... The expert in the local hobby shop told me a few months ago that the metal plate was not needed in electric helis.. only the nitro birds...
Re the moratorium and Lent... pure coincidence for me.... but the 3 kids have all given up something for Lent..
1.Son -Potato chips (chocolate is still allowed - he was quick to clarify)
2. Daughter 1 - Eating Her Broccoli
3. Daughter 2 - Eating her Carrots
Kinda misses the point I think???
Anyway, I have just registered www.RC450.com and will commence on our "resource link" site... also open to any other ideas.
Thanks Simon,
We are on the same wavelength..... I was thinking of removing the metal plate and just using one layer of foam... The expert in the local hobby shop told me a few months ago that the metal plate was not needed in electric helis.. only the nitro birds...
Re the moratorium and Lent... pure coincidence for me.... but the 3 kids have all given up something for Lent..
1.Son -Potato chips (chocolate is still allowed - he was quick to clarify)
2. Daughter 1 - Eating Her Broccoli
3. Daughter 2 - Eating her Carrots
Kinda misses the point I think???
Anyway, I have just registered www.RC450.com and will commence on our "resource link" site... also open to any other ideas.
03-19-2011, 07:55 PM
#2890
My Feedback: (6)
RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: sgbfly
Yes absolutely,
The HK-450GT imo is the perfect first 450. Its an Align v2 clone so spare parts are easy to get. Its also quite docile with flybar weights installed and yet is capable of acrobatics when your ready to give them a try.
A good first setup would be Turnigy Typhoon 2215 motor, Turnigy Plush 40A esc, Hobbyking 939 servos (*3), HK-401B gyro, Turnigy DS480 tail servo and a TX and RX of your choice.
Simon [img][/img]
ORIGINAL: rustypep
I have read some of the thread but was curious if you guys would recommend this bird for a first 450 sized bird. The cost is hard to beat and I know I will have plenty of crashes. I could justify buying a second kit to use for parts. I have some limited time on smaller CP birds but wanted to start piecing together a larger bird to try later this summer. Thanks for the help in advance.
I have read some of the thread but was curious if you guys would recommend this bird for a first 450 sized bird. The cost is hard to beat and I know I will have plenty of crashes. I could justify buying a second kit to use for parts. I have some limited time on smaller CP birds but wanted to start piecing together a larger bird to try later this summer. Thanks for the help in advance.
The HK-450GT imo is the perfect first 450. Its an Align v2 clone so spare parts are easy to get. Its also quite docile with flybar weights installed and yet is capable of acrobatics when your ready to give them a try.
A good first setup would be Turnigy Typhoon 2215 motor, Turnigy Plush 40A esc, Hobbyking 939 servos (*3), HK-401B gyro, Turnigy DS480 tail servo and a TX and RX of your choice.
Simon [img][/img]
03-19-2011, 08:04 PM
#2891
My Feedback: (6)
RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
kudos on the idea of summarizing all the tips and links in this thread. It would certainly be helpful to a newbie like me who hasn't built a heli kit yet and gone through the set up process. For example, knowing where to buy better dampers so I can avoid the mess shown in the pictures above. I am sure there are other parts which might make sense to just upgrade as I am building it. Thank you.
03-20-2011, 06:12 AM
#2892
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: rustypep
Thanks for the feedback guys and the list of items to order. Would it make sense to use digital servos all around versus just on thetail? Would you run a BEC on this bird?
ORIGINAL: sgbfly
Yes absolutely,
The HK-450GT imo is the perfect first 450. Its an Align v2 clone so spare parts are easy to get. Its also quite docile with flybar weights installed and yet is capable of acrobatics when your ready to give them a try.
A good first setup would be Turnigy Typhoon 2215 motor, Turnigy Plush 40A esc, Hobbyking 939 servos (*3), HK-401B gyro, Turnigy DS480 tail servo and a TX and RX of your choice.
Simon[img][/img]
ORIGINAL: rustypep
I have read some of the thread but was curious if you guys would recommend this bird for a first 450 sized bird. The cost is hard to beat and I know I will have plenty of crashes. I could justify buying a second kit to use for parts. I have some limited time on smaller CP birds but wanted to start piecing together a larger bird to try later this summer. Thanks for the help in advance.
I have read some of the thread but was curious if you guys would recommend this bird for a first 450 sized bird. The cost is hard to beat and I know I will have plenty of crashes. I could justify buying a second kit to use for parts. I have some limited time on smaller CP birds but wanted to start piecing together a larger bird to try later this summer. Thanks for the help in advance.
The HK-450GT imo is the perfect first 450. Its an Align v2 clone so spare parts are easy to get. Its also quite docile with flybar weights installed and yet is capable of acrobatics when your ready to give them a try.
A good first setup would be Turnigy Typhoon 2215 motor, Turnigy Plush 40A esc, Hobbyking 939 servos (*3), HK-401B gyro, Turnigy DS480 tail servo and a TX and RX of your choice.
Simon[img][/img]
I would argue not in the first instance. Rob and I think the HK 939 servos are excellent and appear strong both in build and torque. As a beginner you are going to crash and the cyclic servos take a beating so why risk expensive servos. A famous rc pilotsays learn on a VW not a Porsche. Sound logic to me.
As for the BEC if you buy the Turnigy Plush 40A (Same as Hobbywing Pentium 40A) it has a built-in 3A switched BEC. There is no need for an external unit as this is a better spec than other esc's that (often) only have a 2A in-built esc. Be aware that there is an opto version of the esc's that does not have a BEC if you try and buy a Hobbywing off eBay - read the listing carefully!
Simon
PS. Besides VW is Porsche right??!!
03-20-2011, 06:42 AM
#2893
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: sgbfly
Hmmmm. Take this answer with a pich of salt as I have not tried high end servos on the cyclic!
I would argue not in the first instance. Rob and I think the HK 939 servos are excellent and appear strong both in build and torque. As a beginner you are going to crash and the cyclic servos take a beating so why risk expensive servos. A famous rc pilotsays learn on a VW not a Porsche. Sound logic to me.
As for the BEC if you buy the Turnigy Plush 40A (Same as Hobbywing Pentium 40A) it has a built-in 3A switched BEC. There is no need for an external unit as this is a better spec than other esc's that (often) only have a 2A in-built esc. Be aware that there is an opto version of the esc's that does not have a BEC if you try and buy a Hobbywing off eBay - read the listing carefully!
Simon
PS. Besides VW is Porsche right??!!
Hmmmm. Take this answer with a pich of salt as I have not tried high end servos on the cyclic!
I would argue not in the first instance. Rob and I think the HK 939 servos are excellent and appear strong both in build and torque. As a beginner you are going to crash and the cyclic servos take a beating so why risk expensive servos. A famous rc pilotsays learn on a VW not a Porsche. Sound logic to me.
As for the BEC if you buy the Turnigy Plush 40A (Same as Hobbywing Pentium 40A) it has a built-in 3A switched BEC. There is no need for an external unit as this is a better spec than other esc's that (often) only have a 2A in-built esc. Be aware that there is an opto version of the esc's that does not have a BEC if you try and buy a Hobbywing off eBay - read the listing carefully!
Simon
PS. Besides VW is Porsche right??!!
I have used Hitech HS65MG servos in my other helis and they work great and are faultless.. but they cost almost 8 times more a piece than the HK939's.. so there is no real advantage.. actually the HK 939s are stronger in torque and this gives a great handling helicopter which I will vouch for and I am sure Simon will agree..
I completely agree with the 40 Amp Turnigy (Hobbywing) ESC.. a great unit with more than ample power for any 450 heli and servo combination...
I drive a KIA.. not sure where that sits between Porsche and VW....
03-20-2011, 08:41 AM
#2894
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
Question..
finally got some decent, non windy weather to practice in. I am getting a feel for the sticks and how the bird responds...but I have a question.
I suppose this is normal, but having only flown coax units this is new to me. I get light on the skids and the rudder will swing things around. The heli will move (forward and left a bit) and when I give left/rear cyclic it 'sucks down' to the ground as opposed to moving back and to the right. Now if I get some altitude and go very gently (or on/off for more response) on the sticks it will move back and to the right.
Is this normal a set up issue?
I'm also finding that I increase throttle (or is it pitch?) when I give the cyclic commands it responds better.
finally got some decent, non windy weather to practice in. I am getting a feel for the sticks and how the bird responds...but I have a question.
I suppose this is normal, but having only flown coax units this is new to me. I get light on the skids and the rudder will swing things around. The heli will move (forward and left a bit) and when I give left/rear cyclic it 'sucks down' to the ground as opposed to moving back and to the right. Now if I get some altitude and go very gently (or on/off for more response) on the sticks it will move back and to the right.
Is this normal a set up issue?
I'm also finding that I increase throttle (or is it pitch?) when I give the cyclic commands it responds better.
03-20-2011, 10:38 AM
#2895
My Feedback: (6)
RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
Thanks guys, I will go with the 939's. It is nice to have friendly help working this out and I am sure I will find terra firma plenty. That said, I think I will learn quicker not worrying about the part costs so much with this bird and gear. I got new grips for my mcpx yesterday and was up late flying it around the basement (without another bearing failure).
03-20-2011, 11:02 AM
#2896
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: proffate61
Question..
finally got some decent, non windy weather to practice in. I am getting a feel for the sticks and how the bird responds...but I have a question.
I suppose this is normal, but having only flown coax units this is new to me. I get light on the skids and the rudder will swing things around. The heli will move (forward and left a bit) and when I give left/rear cyclic it 'sucks down' to the ground as opposed to moving back and to the right. Now if I get some altitude and go very gently (or on/off for more response) on the sticks it will move back and to the right.
Is this normal a set up issue?
I'm also finding that I increase throttle (or is it pitch?) when I give the cyclic commands it responds better.
Question..
finally got some decent, non windy weather to practice in. I am getting a feel for the sticks and how the bird responds...but I have a question.
I suppose this is normal, but having only flown coax units this is new to me. I get light on the skids and the rudder will swing things around. The heli will move (forward and left a bit) and when I give left/rear cyclic it 'sucks down' to the ground as opposed to moving back and to the right. Now if I get some altitude and go very gently (or on/off for more response) on the sticks it will move back and to the right.
Is this normal a set up issue?
I'm also finding that I increase throttle (or is it pitch?) when I give the cyclic commands it responds better.
I am new at this too, but I will take a shot at this because I am going through some of the same things. going left on initial takeoff is normal. It is all part of the rotor wash thing. remember, you don't have 2 counter rotating blades like on the coax. so you not only have the rotor wash to deal with, you also have some torque forces. but, I am thinking that if you are going forward also, you may need to trim out your elevator. If you notice, when you get the heli up out of the rotor wash, and get it into a stable hover, it won't sit exactly level. the rotor will lean just slightly to the left....torque again. I don't remember how high you need to be to be completely out of the rotor wash, there is a formula for it, but mine seems to hover pretty good about chest height.
As far as "sticking" to the ground, this is going to depend on your pitch curve. for instance, I am running a linear curve 0,25,50,75,100. Remember that 50%pitch translates to 0% on the blades. that means I don't even get 0% until mid-stick, so if you chop the throttle like you do when you get in trouble with the coax, it comes down REALLY FAST! because at less than half throttle, I have negative pitch. The reason I am using the linear curve, is because the person helping me out is forcing me to use the same curve that I will be usinig for 3D flying (if I even get there). BTW, for normal mode, I am also using a linear throttle curve. If you want it to handle more like the coax, do a pitch curve that starts you with just a very small amount of negative pitch. Say something like 45,50,67,84,100. But remember, when you start using idle up, you will have to re-learn where up and down is!
And finally yes, whe you increase throttle and pitch, you get a higher head speed, and the heli gets more responsive. An easy way to think about it is: when the rpm's are higher, esentially, even though you don't have more blades, you have more inputs from each blade in a given area in the same amount of time. You tell it to go left, and if the head is spinning at 20 rps (revolutions per second), you have the blades telling it to go left 20 times in that second, but if it is at 30rps, you have the blades telling it to go left 30 times in that same second.
I hope this helps, and I am sure that some of the more experienced flyers will chime in and tell you what I missed, and what I got wrong.
Jeff
03-20-2011, 11:11 AM
#2897
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
Hey guys!
Haven't posted in a bit so............
Got sidelined this weekend because of a TX battery failure. All my fault though..........didnt pay attention to the battery pack in the 9z and used the wrong charger. Battery gone............wasted.....but then again, it was over 5 years old so actually it needed to be replaced.
Found a brand new TX battery from a friend and put it on the charger about an hour ago. Gonna let it slow charge so at least 15 hours. It's a NiCd.
I really didnt have time to fly yesterday anyway since I was racing. That and it was a little too windy for the 450 for my liking!
I will hopefully update later and love reading everyone's progress. It's like a dang soap opera!!!!
Shawn
Haven't posted in a bit so............
Got sidelined this weekend because of a TX battery failure. All my fault though..........didnt pay attention to the battery pack in the 9z and used the wrong charger. Battery gone............wasted.....but then again, it was over 5 years old so actually it needed to be replaced.
Found a brand new TX battery from a friend and put it on the charger about an hour ago. Gonna let it slow charge so at least 15 hours. It's a NiCd.
I really didnt have time to fly yesterday anyway since I was racing. That and it was a little too windy for the 450 for my liking!
I will hopefully update later and love reading everyone's progress. It's like a dang soap opera!!!!
Shawn
03-20-2011, 11:58 AM
#2898
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: jnail
I am new at this too, but I will take a shot at this because I am going through some of the same things. going left on initial takeoff is normal. It is all part of the rotor wash thing. remember, you don't have 2 counter rotating blades like on the coax. so you not only have the rotor wash to deal with, you also have some torque forces. but, I am thinking that if you are going forward also, you may need to trim out your elevator. If you notice, when you get the heli up out of the rotor wash, and get it into a stable hover, it won't sit exactly level. the rotor will lean just slightly to the left....torque again. I don't remember how high you need to be to be completely out of the rotor wash, there is a formula for it, but mine seems to hover pretty good about chest height.
As far as ''sticking'' to the ground, this is going to depend on your pitch curve. for instance, I am running a linear curve 0,25,50,75,100. Remember that 50%pitch translates to 0% on the blades. that means I don't even get 0% until mid-stick, so if you chop the throttle like you do when you get in trouble with the coax, it comes down REALLY FAST! because at less than half throttle, I have negative pitch. The reason I am using the linear curve, is because the person helping me out is forcing me to use the same curve that I will be usinig for 3D flying (if I even get there). BTW, for normal mode, I am also using a linear throttle curve. If you want it to handle more like the coax, do a pitch curve that starts you with just a very small amount of negative pitch. Say something like 45,50,67,84,100. But remember, when you start using idle up, you will have to re-learn where up and down is!
And finally yes, whe you increase throttle and pitch, you get a higher head speed, and the heli gets more responsive. An easy way to think about it is: when the rpm's are higher, esentially, even though you don't have more blades, you have more inputs from each blade in a given area in the same amount of time. You tell it to go left, and if the head is spinning at 20 rps (revolutions per second), you have the blades telling it to go left 20 times in that second, but if it is at 30rps, you have the blades telling it to go left 30 times in that same second.
I hope this helps, and I am sure that some of the more experienced flyers will chime in and tell you what I missed, and what I got wrong.
Jeff
ORIGINAL: proffate61
Question..
finally got some decent, non windy weather to practice in. I am getting a feel for the sticks and how the bird responds...but I have a question.
I suppose this is normal, but having only flown coax units this is new to me. I get light on the skids and the rudder will swing things around. The heli will move (forward and left a bit) and when I give left/rear cyclic it 'sucks down' to the ground as opposed to moving back and to the right. Now if I get some altitude and go very gently (or on/off for more response) on the sticks it will move back and to the right.
Is this normal a set up issue?
I'm also finding that I increase throttle (or is it pitch?) when I give the cyclic commands it responds better.
Question..
finally got some decent, non windy weather to practice in. I am getting a feel for the sticks and how the bird responds...but I have a question.
I suppose this is normal, but having only flown coax units this is new to me. I get light on the skids and the rudder will swing things around. The heli will move (forward and left a bit) and when I give left/rear cyclic it 'sucks down' to the ground as opposed to moving back and to the right. Now if I get some altitude and go very gently (or on/off for more response) on the sticks it will move back and to the right.
Is this normal a set up issue?
I'm also finding that I increase throttle (or is it pitch?) when I give the cyclic commands it responds better.
I am new at this too, but I will take a shot at this because I am going through some of the same things. going left on initial takeoff is normal. It is all part of the rotor wash thing. remember, you don't have 2 counter rotating blades like on the coax. so you not only have the rotor wash to deal with, you also have some torque forces. but, I am thinking that if you are going forward also, you may need to trim out your elevator. If you notice, when you get the heli up out of the rotor wash, and get it into a stable hover, it won't sit exactly level. the rotor will lean just slightly to the left....torque again. I don't remember how high you need to be to be completely out of the rotor wash, there is a formula for it, but mine seems to hover pretty good about chest height.
As far as ''sticking'' to the ground, this is going to depend on your pitch curve. for instance, I am running a linear curve 0,25,50,75,100. Remember that 50%pitch translates to 0% on the blades. that means I don't even get 0% until mid-stick, so if you chop the throttle like you do when you get in trouble with the coax, it comes down REALLY FAST! because at less than half throttle, I have negative pitch. The reason I am using the linear curve, is because the person helping me out is forcing me to use the same curve that I will be usinig for 3D flying (if I even get there). BTW, for normal mode, I am also using a linear throttle curve. If you want it to handle more like the coax, do a pitch curve that starts you with just a very small amount of negative pitch. Say something like 45,50,67,84,100. But remember, when you start using idle up, you will have to re-learn where up and down is!
And finally yes, whe you increase throttle and pitch, you get a higher head speed, and the heli gets more responsive. An easy way to think about it is: when the rpm's are higher, esentially, even though you don't have more blades, you have more inputs from each blade in a given area in the same amount of time. You tell it to go left, and if the head is spinning at 20 rps (revolutions per second), you have the blades telling it to go left 20 times in that second, but if it is at 30rps, you have the blades telling it to go left 30 times in that same second.
I hope this helps, and I am sure that some of the more experienced flyers will chime in and tell you what I missed, and what I got wrong.
Jeff
An eggggcelent explaination!
3' and rotor wash diminishes!
Shawn,
I can't fly either as it's blowin' 30 kts.
At that rate yer bird chasin' instead of flyin'!
b
PS Shawn the package should be on your door step Monday or Tuesday!
03-20-2011, 12:32 PM
#2899
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
ORIGINAL: shawnm67
Hey guys!
Haven't posted in a bit so............
Got sidelined this weekend because of a TX battery failure. All my fault though..........didnt pay attention to the battery pack in the 9z and used the wrong charger. Battery gone............wasted.....but then again, it was over 5 years old so actually it needed to be replaced.
Found a brand new TX battery from a friend and put it on the charger about an hour ago. Gonna let it slow charge so at least 15 hours. It's a NiCd.
I really didnt have time to fly yesterday anyway since I was racing. That and it was a little too windy for the 450 for my liking!
I will hopefully update later and love reading everyone's progress. It's like a dang soap opera!!!!
Shawn
Hey guys!
Haven't posted in a bit so............
Got sidelined this weekend because of a TX battery failure. All my fault though..........didnt pay attention to the battery pack in the 9z and used the wrong charger. Battery gone............wasted.....but then again, it was over 5 years old so actually it needed to be replaced.
Found a brand new TX battery from a friend and put it on the charger about an hour ago. Gonna let it slow charge so at least 15 hours. It's a NiCd.
I really didnt have time to fly yesterday anyway since I was racing. That and it was a little too windy for the 450 for my liking!
I will hopefully update later and love reading everyone's progress. It's like a dang soap opera!!!!
Shawn
Got 4 packs in this morning!, but now it is doing the misty rain thing, so i think I am grounded for the rest of the day. Oh well, at least the snow is melting!
I am doing pretty good now, but I am having some trouble with head-in, which is strange, because I do pretty well with that on the coax. I don't know, maybe I am phsyching myself out because I am so nervous about crashing. The heli is flying so nice that i don't want to re-build it again!
Any suggestions of learnig head-in better, and please don't say the sim! That thing sucks! If the heli flew anywhere close to as bad as it does on my sim, i would have trashed it along time ago.
thanks, jeff
03-20-2011, 01:15 PM
#2900
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible
For anyone interested in a DX8 here are my video reviews.... 24 hours to upload all the vids!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10412015/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10412015/tm.htm