bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

its been a while since this one has been up

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

My setup is exactly like BigTims. Same engine. I added a little more heat protection by thinning some JB weld and painting it on the inside of the cowl and on the fuse where the muffler was close to it. I'm on my third exhaust diverter but its no big deal, they last almost the whole summer flying season. The heat eventually busts through the rubber. The only cooling holes in my cowl are the top inlet and bottom. Been flying my P-40 for 5 years like that with no over heating problems. Runs fine.
Edwin

Experten109/40

My Feedback: (-1)

not a Hanger P-40 but I never had an overheating problem either, the pic below may be a bit of overkill
but it got the job done. I boxed in the muffler, lined with aluminum foil, also wrapped the headpipe in
aluminum foil too.

david polley

Dear Old Erkki

I am so sorry I have not responded to your message that you sent me about your P-40. I was never notified by RC universe that you had written. You have a real nice looking model yourself. How has it been flying...?
I flew mine this past fall in the 2010 GCRCC Wings of War invitation at our club field called The Greater Cincinnati Radio Control Club or GCRCC for short. There was another model pilot there who had the same model with a 4 stoke engine on it. I do not know if it was a 100 size or 120, but he and I flew several formation flights together. that was really neat.
It was a beautiful day. I have sent some photos that the other P-40 pilot took of my model that day.

Please let me know how you P-40 is doing...

David

D.O.A.F.S.

Anyone with any intrest in a new Keleo Creations scale exhaust for an O.S. FS-91 Surpass?

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

so I am getting the KELEO from D.O.A.F.S. installed in the P-40,and was wondering how many modifications had to be made to the motor mount, and any one still having the over heating issues,if so I am wondering if I need to baffle the engine.

I didnt need to baffle the engine when I had the pipe installed inside the cowl and it ran fine,I am also going to go over the plane thoroughly since its not been flown for a couple of years.

D.O.A.F.S.

Hi bigtim,
The mod to the motor mount is minimal, here's a couple pics. You just have to remove a little of the side webbing. If you still have any questions PM me your phone number and the best time to call and I'll give you a call. As far as the cooling question, if you had no issues before, I would think you would still be ok. Mark

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I already had my engine mounted slightly forward of where yours was to help with the balancing, so I didn't need to remove the webbing, but I had to grind a little off the edge of the beam so the header would clear it,I also had to open up the slot where the engine mounting screws are but it was minimal.

the plane def needed a go over, I didn't coat the fuel tank area with epoxy like I did with My H-9 Mustang,and there was some fuel seepage in the area at the tank, I am going to leak test the stock tank and if it has any problems I will replace it with a spare dubro one I have laying around,the stock tanks are not the best quality typical ARF .

I will be giving it a through coat of thinned epoxy later today in the tank compartment, looking forward to getting this plane in the air again its a great little flyer

hy flyr

My Feedback: (27)

Hey BigTim! You're going to absolutley love the sound with the Keleo exhaust but will hate the mess it makes on your plane! Let us know if you have heating issues and need to use baffles.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

just note got my exhaust all dialed and did my first test run today the engine fired up right away and was spinning 10,240 max rpm which I was pleased to see after rolling back the needle my customary 300rpm I let her run the full tank(I did replace the stock one with a new Dubro unit)the stock one was leaking, after warm up went from idle to full throttle with no sagging at all and was really pleased with the look and sound of the pipes there pretty cool looking stuff.

there was a little bit more slime than the stock pipe I had down and out, but not too bad I think it will be a bit less when its flying,now I will double check the CG,after I pull the cowl for my after run check out to see if any thing got loose, and this baby is ready to go again.

FlymoreRC

Any Hanger9 P40 buffs still watching this forum?

Here's my P40 that suffered a big boo-boo one day. The engine (Saito 100) was smashed inward through the firewall, the wing suffered a minor break, and the tail section broke off.
So I stripped her down. Put on a new firewall over the old one (after cleaning it up), fixed the wing and tail feathers and recovered it with lightweight fiberglass. Installed a DLE20, and repaired the cowl (which was pretty crushed).
Waiting on the YS spinner adapter to put spinner back on.

Here's some photos, more to follow as things progress.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Did you put in the original amount of right thrust the firewall had? I reduced the right thrust in mine using shims from the hardware store. Looks like you're almost back in the saddle again.
Edwin

FlymoreRC

Yes, I used the orginal right angle thrust settings. The outer edge of the firewall was intact with the fuse, so I just added a new firewall plate over the orignal one.

Originally the engine offset from the firewall center line is about 3/16th. Since the thrust washer is now about 5/8" farther away from the firewall versus the Saito 100, I move the engine center line offset to 7/32" to the right of firewall center line (as you face the firewall).

Also, the DLE20 is a beam mount, so I reused the metal Hanger9 engine mounting beams.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

the rebuild looks sweet did you use flightskin to cover the planes surfaces and wing, the DLE 20 should fly with plenty of umph I have a OS91 and it has plenty of power for this light weight model

FlymoreRC

I used two fiberglass cloths.

The fuse was done with ACPSales.com .75oz fabric, plus their 30 minute resin/expoxy thinned with 91% alcohol.
The wing and tail sections were covered with Koverall, plus ACPSales 30 minute resin/expoxy thinned with 91% alcohol.

I used Koverall because I did not sheet out the wing or tail areas. Using Koverall allowed me to tack apply the covering then shrink it.

The fiberglass & resin added about8 ouncesbased on my calculations of the original plane weight with the Saito 100. The DLE 30 added about 9 ounces. So it's a bit on the chubby side, which means faster landing speeds. Currently, without fuel, which is only 8oz, it weighs in at about 8.5 lbs.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Thats actually a pretty good weight with that hardware. Mine with a OS.91 surpass is 7lb 10oz. I was expecting to hear about at least 9.5lbs. You did pretty good. Gives me something to consider in the future.
I'm about to open up a flying buddies DLE20 thats making a con-rod bearing noise. He says its a new sound and wants to know whether it should be fixed, so I'm doing it for him. About november another flying buddy had a DL50 doing the same thing, but he ignored it for about 8 months. After about 60 hours the con-rod let go on the crank end and schrapnelled the inside of the engine. He bought a new DLE55 to replace it. His 20 is built different than my 30. The crank and con-rod are separate pieces, the 30 and 55 are press fit together.
Edwin

david polley

Dear Flymore RC,

I received you message a few weeks ago but I was out of town and could not respond...I too lost my P-40 last summer and could not find it after it had gone down in a bean field. It was there for over 2 months before it was finally found....

After I got it back, the mice had been in it with 2 nests in the wing and 1 in the fusalage. As you can see in the photo of the model in my basement after I had found it, it didn't look all that bad and looked very repairable to me, but it had a bad smell to it and I feared the worst.

Sure enough, found 3 mice nests in the model. 2 in the wing and 1 big one in the fusalage. It had an awful smell to it and when I started to take off the covering, I realized that the entire support structer had been eaten by the mice.

They ate most of the balsa wood sheeting of the wing right down to the ultracoat. Ate all of the ribs in the wing and ate up all of the wiring for all of the servos, switch harness, and the receiver antenna. It had been saturated with urine from the mice even back to the stab and rudder. I was able to salvage the rudder and stab including the control surfaces. I ended up taking off all of the covering and pinning the pieces to the model table to keep them straight until they had dried out.

I used an industrial heat gun to dry out the wood then sanded it down a bit and sheeted the the horiz. stab, rudder and control surfaces with 1/64 in plywood sheeting and epoxy..

I did find a new fuselage and cowl. The wing and the canopy were no longer available but I found a used model from a friend that I am going to meet up with and use his wing and canopy. All of the other parts were available through the internet. I was very lucky and found a new set of retracts too. If you wanted, Horizon Hobby still has the cowl. I beleive it runs $31.00 so if you want a new one you can still get it and the exhausts too I believe.... Hope to have mine completed real soon.... Good luck with you rebuild...

David

FlymoreRC

David,
Sorry about the mishap of your P40. Mine sorta looked similar, only I did not have any resident rodents taking ownership.

Well, the weather in Connecticut became calm and warm enough to give the rebirth of my P40 a chance to prove itself.
The DLE20 (with a 14 x 7 triple blade) proved to be more than enough power to pull this bird around. First take off was pretty scarey as I was a bid high on the throttle and the elevator trim was a bit off as she tried climbing to the clouds as soon as it rotated off the runway.
Some down trip quickly had it level and the result was a very stable, yet responsive flight sequence.
Low speed passes were very stable and the DLE20 with the snufflers (from Valley View) gave a very smooth engine sound.Pushing on the throttle and imediately speed was provided and up and away she went. Gotta love a responsive engine.

Here's a photo of her just before takeoff.

david polley

FlymoreRC

Iam so happy you got your bird in the air. It looks really nice. You did a fantastic job on it... You just have to be a happy camper now after all of the hard work you put into it....

I am still working on mine...I just have not had the time to work on it as much as I would like, but I have made a little progress...Irefurbished the horizontal stab and rudder like I said before along with the control surfaceswith the 1/64 in plywood and have covered the horizontal stab and elevator using the original Hangar9 Ultracote( very expensive stuff I might add)....This stuff iskind ofhard to work with and it took me several hours to cover using the 3 colors and to match up everything with the new fuselage....Iam pleased with how it turned out though...The rudder and vert fin will be a little easier....Ialso went with Robart hinges to replace the CA hinges that came with it.... I think those will work out better...Ieven bought the Robart centering tool that lines and drills a perfectly center hole in each surface....

I completely rebuilt the radio system and repaired all of the damaged servos and wiring. Ihad several older used JR servos laying around that did not have the ball berrings and used those wiring connectors to restore all of my servos....Replaced the receiver antenna and rewired the switch harness too... I have been working on the wing I picked up from my friend in Chicago and need to do some structual improvements in and around the wheel wells and where the retract servo is mounted...I removed the retracts and repaired and re-adjusted them for use as spares... Iwill install the new ones for now, but it is nice to know I have a spare set that works..... I have also been trying to solve the dilima I have has with the O.S. 91 FX engine and the defective needle valve design and such...The first generation of the engine had the original needle valve bolted right to the back of the engine...(Photo below) This was a bad design in that the engine would get hot enough to vaporize the fuel going to the engine before it had a chance to reach the carburetor, hence and engine that never did run very well........
O.S. corrected that problem with the remote needle system and backplate that they had used on the 40, 46, and 61 FX series...(Photo below)...Too bad, that most engine owners had to pay for there upgrade since O.S. didn't own up to the design flawuntil after everyones warrantys had expiered....Ilater had found that the needle assembly was the same set up as used on the O.S. 40LA and I believe that the needle valve set up was too small for this very powerful carburetor that really sucked fuel....( It is their 60Dcarburetor)

I could never get my needle to adjust low enough on the settings and set the engine where it is just breaking into that 2 stroke setting you need so the engine doesn't overheat...In fact I could take the needle valve out almost all of the way and the engine ran pretty well which should have told me that there was a real problem with this set up.......Iended up losing my P-40 because of that very problem and I paid the price for it, as Iam stillrebuilding from the engine quitting about 1 minute into the flight....

Yes I should have dumped the idea and realized this engine was a lemon, but I am an O.S. engine fanatic and I wanted to know what I could do to make it run right...It is the perfect engine for this P-40 and I loved the performance, when Igot it in the air...It just kept overheating and eventually burnt up. I found a used91 FX on ebay that they stated had never been run more that once or twice. It had the original carburter and I felt I could use that engine and convert it with my existing remote40 LA needle set up.... I replaced the berrings in the engine due to some rust, but the sleeve and piston were like brand new.... I only spent $35.00 for the engine so I felt I had a good thing going

That ended up being even worse of a situation. being that the engine was almost new it ran even hotter that the first one I had and because it leaned out so much, Icould completely take out the needle valve and it still ran too lean..........

Ibelieve now my gas lines were too small and that Imay have had a kink in the brass fuel line that in turn also kept the engine running too lean......After searching around I decided to try and use the 70D carb which is used on the new 120AX engine..(photo below) As you can see the needle is connected up front with the carb and it is at a 45 degeree angle for safety...The carb does fit in the 91FX slot but the "O" ring is 1 mm thick and I could not compress the carb and place the mounting screws through the holes....My only choice was to use the "O" ring off of the O.S. 25FX carb which is 0.9mm thick. It is small but it does work...I will have to wait and see if this could be the ultimate fix for the defunked 91FX that never lived up to the other engines in the FX series.... I will let you know and some day soon I will put up some video ofmy P-40 in flight....

David

Jaybird

Grettings,

I have recently picked up a second hand kit from a club auction and I'm looking for set up and adjustment tips for the included mechanical retracts. The plane is mostly built but there are still some key elements to get installed. I know I can probably dig up some information reading back through all the threads, but I'm hoping I can speed up the process by asking for it specifically. The bellcrank post screws are loose and I assume they should be tightened down as long as the bellcrank is free to move. The retracts are installed and the wire rods are run to the wing center section. I've also found that the two large pushrods that come out of the retract housings are different lengths which seems odd. They do operate by hand moving the center section rods and seem to lock up and down, but one works harder than the other and the geometries are different. There is no information in the manual that is very helpful that I can find.

My silent auction bid was $150 and for that I took home the kit, a new Saito 100 four stroke and Airtronics 6000 radio system. Missing are the wheels, fuel tank and the mounting plates in the wing for the retract servo.

This should be a fun addition to my collection and I look forward to finishing it up.

Jaybird.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

150. is a score for what you have its a nice flyer even though the retracts are weak,you want to make sure those bell crank screws are tight mine came loose on a landing and the gear folded on that side fortunately the plane was OK but I ended up loosing the screw.
I installed LADO retracts in mine and built balsa wheel wells.

before that I pulled out the landing gear struts out and heat tempered them so they would be allot stiffer,this helped allot with ground handling and landing,the struts are soft and bend really easy

here is a tutorial that has allot of info http://www.nwrcc.com/articles/HeatTreatingMusicWire.pdf

as for the servo plate you should be able to make one out of light ply fairly easy.

Jaybird

Thanks for that information Tim.

Can you give me a sense of what the linkages should look like as far as the bellcrank position and pushrods in the lowered and raised positions? I understand they are the weak point in the this kit, but I'd like to give them a try before I invest more money into it.

Jaybird

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

my best suggestion would be read through the early part of this thread because thats where guys were dealing with the original retracts and there issues,I don't have any photos of the old gear the bell cranks as I recall only fit one way with the push rods provided with each side of the wing as long as there not crossed your good to go it does take some tinkering,I made some changes to mine the gear was one, I also installed a Keleo exhaust as well.

before my pipe ran out the back of the cowl so there was a clean look it also helped keep the oil down.

I should add I replaced the tank so no loss on your part there

Jaybird

Thanks again. I'll check the photo gallery associated with the thread and see if anyone ever posted a picture of the stock setup.

Jaybird

p.s. There was only one picture that showed all the linkages and bellcrank for one side, darn.

david polley

Dear Jaybird


They still have the manual for the Hangar 9 P-40....The web address is

http://www.hangar-9.com/Products/Sup...ProdID=HAN2850

It will come up and then you can click "manuals" and it will come up as a PDF for you to look at or to print out....Hope this helps....

David