KJ-66

My Feedback: (1)

Hi

While I was making the fuel and gas rings,I had to make the connectors,which go through the diffuser. I used 3mm stainless cap screws and drilled a 1,5 mm hole,through the centre of it. This was fairly easy to do on the Unimat Mk2 lathe.

Regards
Craig

BJ64

While everyone was focussed on looking at the damaged/corroded turbine vane, did anyone else happen to notice the rather ovbvious crack on the rim around from the corrosion?

The flattened area around the crack and distored vane (second picture) indicates to me that this thing was thumped, and rather hard.

Maybe that has something to do with the problems of this engine?

BJ

CRX Turbines

JaySK

Hi,

Can you recommend a reliable jetjoe dealer. I have e-mailed two dealers and also direct to jetjoe to buy a combustion chamber but got no responses.

Thanks for your help,
Steve

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Normally no problems buying direct from JetJoe

idleup1

I have bought parts direct with no problems. I also sent in a junior and was updated,bearings replaced, cc replaced , balanced and back from china in 3 weeks total at minimal cost. What size motor do you have as I may have a spare?

CRX Turbines

Ibuy from them all the time with no issue... my only contention is that it takes 3 weeks to get parts so if you are looking for a quick fix to get a plane in the air, it can seem like a long time.

vortex00

My Feedback: (22)

ref: JJ 1400 purchased in '07, 22hrs run time

received my NGV from China in the 3 week timeframe with no problems. nice service.

took a closer look at my CC and found a couple of areas that are burnt thru by the NGV area-which had cracks in it.

I believe mine is Inconel. A couple of the tubes look a bit eroded but I was going to use the CC until I found the burnt areas.

I will order a new CC.

Jack

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

You have an earlier CC like the one I had, tubes are only stainless so burn out over time, the newer ones are much better with inconel tubes, remember to check fuel ring when you get it.

vortex00

My Feedback: (22)

Xairflyer

thanks for the info.

I assume you are telling me to remove the new fuel ring and test it? good idea

I got my old fuel ring working well, then I discovered the CC cracks.

I thought I would have had the inconel tubes also- oh well. will be ordering the CC.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Yes better to check the fuel ring, my turbine was 2007 as well, it was later than that when they changed to Inconel Vapour tubes

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

If your old ring is working ok then you could stick with that in the new CC.

This is one area that still lets JJ down, I dont know what checking they do, just assemble and maybe check to see if air is going through each needle but doubt if they lite each one with gas and make sure each flame is the same height, which makes all the difference.

vortex00

My Feedback: (22)

I agree, good to check out as much as you can before assembling. I wish they would at least put all the needles in the same way

I thought of using the old one as well. I will take a look at it when I get the new CC.

Inconel tubes came out later than ours- good to know.

Felix Barrao

Not much later...
I think your tubes are inconel, ss tubes last 4 starts... I have " burned" two inconel cc with inconel tubes with 40 flights each. ( about 400 minutes each) I´m sayng flights, not "test bench" it´s not the same.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

I had about ten hrs (flying) on mine when I decided to strip it to change bearings and noticed the ends of the vapour tubes burnt, I was told they were only stainless (but probably a low grade of material that they use now), so I ordered the new CC and it is not showing any signs of the tubes being burnt now with 15 plus hrs so obviously better than what I had before.

I recently rebuilt a wren 54 at 28hrs it also had the ends of the tubes burnt but not enough I thought to warrant changing it for now.
There was one needle not working properly and two others partially blocked, (felix very kindly sent me a new needle which I replaced) my JJ1400 also had a couple of needles not working properly so I am wondering, if the other jets were working harder (hotter) which may have contributed to the burnt ends?

baua

Hello!
I bought my JetJoe 1400 a year ago, but I havent install it in a model yet.
I am now building a Boomerang Nano and the JJ1400 will be installed in it.
The problem that I have is that I had a papermanual to the JJ1400, but I have lost it or hide it in a very good plays, so good that I cant find it. My question to you guys is if any of you have the manual as an PDF. If yes I would be more than happy If you could upload it here, or sen me a link to where I can find it.

Regards
Magnus

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

send me a personal message with your email address and I will send it to you.

Seamus

OzJetBoy

I hope someone can give me some advice on setting up a JJ-1400 with a genuine Xicoy V.10 FADEC

Recently I purchased a JJ1400 kit from Jet Joe and following his instructions and the information found on this forum assembled the engine

I decided for the electronics to purchase from Gaspar his Xicoy FADEC V.10, Gas and Fuel Solenoids, RPM Sensor and Thermocouple and a Flightworks 200C pump.

I have setup the FADEC with the default settings as Gaspars document suggests and have been able to run the engine first time without any real troubles (except for adjusting the gas flow) - so I am quite happy with that.

The problems that I'm having are:
1. On the cool-down cycle, the FADEC generates a Starter Overload error and this stops spinning the rotor. (Also is it normal what once an error has been generated that the FADEC will not respond unless it is reset - for initiating manual cool-down)
2. On Start-up, getting the gas flow right - Too Much and it wont light, too little it lights and goes out when the engine in spooled up. Ive found that if I open the valve gradually after it lights the engine will continue with the start sequence
3. Time it takes to bring the engine to idle rpm and stabilise it seems to take forever. Do I need to adjust the Pump Start Ramp value?

The FADEC settings are:
Full Power: 160,000 rpm (however I have set the limit to 100,000 rpm during initial setup and familiarisation with the engine)
Idle: 45,000 rpm
Stop: 20,000 rpm
Start Temperature: 100C
Max Temperature : 800C
Acceleration Delay: 015
Deceleration Delay: 015
Stability: 100
Pump Limit: 1020
Pump Start : Auto + 2
Pump Start Ramp: 006
Glow Plug: 1.5V
Start Gas Adjustment: 100%
Low Battery: 6.0V
Starter Power @ Ignition: 070
Ignition Max Rpm: 4.000
Ignition Min Rpm: 2.000
Preheat: 2.0 Seconds
Rpm Gas Off: 13.000
Starter Power @ Fuel Ramp: 070
Rpm 100% Starter Power: 30,000 rpm
Rpm Off Starter: 25,000 rpm
Rpm to Reconnect: 22,000 rpm
Start Mode: Auto-Gas

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

[img]c:%5CUsers%5CLeighton%5CPictures%5CIMG_0363.JPG[/img][img]c:%5CUsers%5CLeighton%5CPictures%5Cfadecimage.png[/img]

Leighton

frema

well,the first thing i see is that the voltage of the glowplug is to low , is should be 2,2 volts minimum.
Then your problem with igniting is solved i think.
the error at the cooling mode , i never saw that , i have several v10 ecu's on different turbines , but it never gave that message.

Raize the startramp to 12 or higher , then the engine will spool up faster, and raize the gas shutdown valve to 30.000 rpm , 13.000 is much to low .
I hope this helps .

By the way , how do you download the parameter screen from the fadec? , i never did that

Regards,

Martin.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Very strange the gas cut off is only 13,000 surprised it actually ran.

Normally 25,000 is fine, JetJoes like wrens are fussy about gas, only way I have found to start them reliably without continually screwing at the gas can during startup is to fit a flow regulator. You need to set it by closing it off then blow through it until you get a slight hiss.

I thought the later (ver 6.0 and above) Gasper ECU's had a gas flow control like the jetcats, where the ecu pulses the gas valve to control the flow. This would make the flow regulator not needed.

Frema is right about glow plug being low at 1.5 but will depend on plug type used, only way to know for sure is to see what glow you are getting when it is turned on, if too hot it will burn out plugs too quick. Also make sure you have two coils well teased out of the plug.

OzJetBoy

Thanks Martin,

Ill adjust my settings as you suggest and test the engine again tomorrow

A quick question though - Im using a OS A6 Hot plug - will it handle 2.2volts without burning out?

As to downloading the data from the FADEC, I bought a USB connector from Gaspar and using his free software, I can plug my laptop into the dataport (replacing the Data Terminal) and run the engine with all the running information appearing on the screen (its pretty neat)

It also has the ability to download the last 51minutes of engine running data for analysis - Im still to work that one out

In my opinion - it was good money spent.

Leighton

OzJetBoy

Thanks Xairflyer,

Ive run the engine 4 times with these settings and once the gas flow is sufficient start process continues (although I have noticed the rpms drop a little when the fuel ramp starts)

I will make the changes as you and Martin have suggested and Ill see how that goes

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Frema
Why do you suggest turning up the start ramp to 12? that is very high especially as we dont know his back screen parameters.

Too high a pump ramp will cause hot start and blow flames, pump start ramp setting depends on pump used on my Jetjoe with the fliteworks pump I only use 002 on the wren with the hasul pump I have it set at 004.

I would leave pump setting alone until a few reliable starts are made then if needed it could be tweaked.

Leighton
Does it arrive near idle then take a long time to settle at 45k or take a long time to get to 40K +

First of all your ecu needs to learn the turbine parameters I would not play about with too many settings until we know more about what you have done so far.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Just seen from your down load screen the gas flow set at 100% so the ecu does have gas control. You will have to experiment, at the moment the ecu is just leaving the gas flow full (100%) I would set it to 80% then open your gas can a small amount a time until you get reliable starts, then mark the knob on the can so you know each time to open it 1 turn etc.

Down the road as you gain in experience you will find you dont even need to fit a gas valve but for now it should make things more reliable and safer to have it there.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Hot plugs do tend to burn out quicker in turbines, A3 would be a better choice but that is the beauty of the plug setting you can adjust it too suit plug used.

take the plug out and re connect the plug cap, hold it against the turbine case and do a dummy start (no gas) you will see how the plug is glowing, always start with a low setting first.
Just thinking maybe the ver10 ecu has a glow test function which will make this job easier.

It is normal for rpm to drop a little when it changes from gas to kero