garyr1

What's the reports fellas?
Good? Bad? Issues?
I looked for a thread but couldn't find one.
Point me at it if I missed, thanks.
A good friend is thinking about it...

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

Come on man. We all know YOU want one!! LOL

Catalinaflyer

I got one for Christmas along with a Great Planes Waco.

The motor mounts exactly the same as a DLE 30, the muffler is a bit large compared to other pitts style mufflers on the market but it's quiet.

I got it all mounted and rigged up, the throttle and choke arms are a plastic/composit material and are pretty flexible so my normal routine of hooking them up using a ball link resulted in a lot of twisting. I wound up going old school and just using z-bends since the throttle has a pretty stiff return spring and would keep the play to a minimum.

We finally got out to the field with it on Sunday and after getting it wet and getting the first pop I opened the choke and proceeded to try and loose a finger. (I'm an advocate of using a leather glove and flipping the prop to make sure the engine is clear then hitting them with a starter but my gloves were in another vehicle and I left me series conector for my starter at home.)

Back to the report, the motor started several times backwards untill I got it to about 1/4 throttle. Once it finally started the low side needle was a little on the lean side and the motor would not transition out of an idle. I adjusted it a little till I got a good transition then adjusted to high side just a tiny bit till she sounded good. After that it was starting on the second flip after choking, flying was perfect and had way more power compared to my Evolution 26cc that I had on my previous Waco. I was running a 17/8 Xoar wood prop which worked with the airframe. I didn't do any break in, just adjusted it till it sounded right and went flying. It was only 40 degrees out and a bit breezy right into my face so I didn't get to fly it much but for the 10 minutes or so I had it in the air it ran perfect at all throttle settings and for the plane that it's in was about double the power needed.

I'm sorry but I don't own a scale or a tach, I assemble and build planes as light as I have the ability to and adjust the engines by ear. Nothing against weighing and taching but I watch a couple of guys at our field who spend half the day with a tach before they fly and then stand around and discuss how much does it weigh blah, blah, blah. I was tought old scholld by one of the old timers and his theory is unless I designed it myself then a good place to start is with what is recommended for motor then tune the motor with your ear and go fly.

MTK

There are several threads on this engine. There is quite a bit of difficulty some have had in starting the engine by hand, myself included But some reports have been positive.
OS recommends a starter for a reason...FWIW2U

garyr1

Thanks MTK...could you point me at these threads please?
As noted, I haven't tripped over them.
Thankls,
Gary

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

How about these threads?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10587664/tm.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10433805/tm.htm

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

I removed joke from my first post. Sorry that it hurt your feelings, it was only meant as a joke. Again, sorry. Scoot

Dick T.

My Feedback: (243)

Spoke to the product manager in the Hobbico/Great Planes booth at the AMA show this past weekend. He stated the O.S. ignition module requires a minimum of 120 r.p.m. to fire so a strong, fast flip is needed. This is why a starter is recommended. Same issue on the GT55.

Someone in another tread stated the ignition module is now being replaced with RCXel. He said that is not true although some fellows are changing to RCXel for easier hand starts but O.S. units retain the RPM minimum for safety and work just fine.

racerman27410

i start mine left handed from behind the wing and it starts right for me about every time.

when my brother flipped it hard from the front it wants to start backwards.... he backed off on the energy of his flip and now it starts right for him as well.

MTK

I've run my OS33Gt on the OS CDI, the RCExl CDI, the SAP180 CDI and the DLE CDI. My particular engine hates to be started by hand on any of the CDI's I mentioned. I broke down and actually bought one of them dynatron meat grinders. I abhor starters and have never owned one in over 43 years of flying planes, including small and large 2 stroke glow, small and large 4 stroke glow and most recently 30cc to 106cc gasoline....until now.

Diablo-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Most electronic ignitions require a good flip to spark. The RCXel ignition doesn't retard the spark if you turn the prop over slowly, and that can bite you because it will be full advance. That's also the way the CH ignition was designed. The DA ignitions and older 3W ignitions with inductive pickups won't spark at all if you flip slowly, so they are a little safer for the inexperienced. If the OS engine requires a starter, it's going to kill sales. All the other gassers are easy hand starters.

ameyam

I picked up a GT33 in Singapore. I could do an unboxing if you want. That wont help much with regards top the behaviour though

Ameyam

garyr1

Thanks folks. Sounds like a starter is key to this one.
So lemme get this straight:
The motor costs a hundred bucks more than DLE, PTE, etc, and then we get to spend another hundred(?) on a hi torque starter package.
This we do for the privilege of buying OS?
I LOVE my OS glow engines and have owned many. But this is getting out of hand, IMHO.
Paying $500 for a $300 engine is pretty rough! Especially with the easy operating with the other ones.
I think I'll advise against this package until there's a better justification for paying this much just to get a balky starting engine.
I agree that starters are a total pain on larger engines.

Catalinaflyer

I think that was me you bought the starter from on Fleabay. Or at least I just sold my Dynatron to someone in Whippany NJ. I upgraded to a Megatron and didn't need the Dynatron.

Catalinaflyer

An update on the OS, I was out again with it yesterday and this time I took my starter and series connector just in case. Again it was about 50 degrees and I was determined to start this thing without a starter. I choked it, flipped it about 4 or 5 times till I got a pop then opened the choke, 1 flip and it was running backwards just perfect. I hit the kill switch and this time I advanced the throttle to between 1/8th and 1/4 and flipped it again and it started perfect.

So, a little above idle on the stick seems to be where this motor likes to start, every time I tried starting it at an idle I got a reverse start or really bad kickback but just off idle and it fired on the first or second flip every single time. The motor runs like a top and flying along side an identical plane with a DLE 30 running identical props the OS just pulls away and on vertical it kept climbing long after the DLEran out. Fuel burn is about normal for this size gas engine, idle is good and slow but the transition after a long idle waiting on the runway to clear burbbles a little with a pretty light belch of smoke then it goes good. That can be adjusted out with some more tweeking on the needles but till it gets spring time and more normal weather, temps, barometric pressure and humidity I'm not going to tweek on it since accessing it in my particular installation requires the cowl to be removed.

Would I spend the money on another one - not a chance, Ihave a whole fleet of Hobby King/Chinese gas motors that run as good as any big name brand imported motor and I can get 3 to4 motors for the price of the OS. However with that being said I love the motor and I love my wife for getting it for me for Christmas and I will keep it for a long time. Iwould howeverrecommend this motor to anyone who doesn't have the experience or equipment to keep up with the Chinese motors. OShas good support and almost every hobby shop in the country will have the ability to getparts. Dollar for Dollar I would take this motor over a DLE any day. The DLE is $100 less expensive but by the time you spend $80+ for a pitts style muffler your in the same ballpark and the OS is far above the DLE in overall quality IMHO.

We spent the entire day flying yesterday and the only motors that we had to resort to starters on werea Super Tiger 90 2s anda Magnum 91 4s (which I have never been able to hand start since the day it was new and it now has well over 100 hours of run time on it.)

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

I've got the OS GT33 engine, ES30G CF pipe and a home made Hyde clone isolator mount (similar to MTK's) on my EF 78" Extra. Mine is somewhat heavy at 13#. Awsome power. Tons of vertical. I'm now using the Biela 19-10 prop. I couldn't be happier. The OS tends to want to start backwards until you get the technique down. The engine has gobs of compression. The Mintor 38 did not want to swing this prop. I've had no problem hand starting the engine in 55F temperatures. I just need to make sure I get a good prime on it.

choihjin

My Feedback: (1)

In the manual, 'the ignition module set not to operate below 120 rpm for safety'.
OS should reconsider this ignition module set. Many are struggling to start the OS engines. Based on their claim, hand start below 120 rpm should not operate, and should not start backward. Many are experencing backward start, which is more dangerous than any other engine's no limit setting. How about setting below 80-100 rpm for safety?
Starting by an electric starter is recomended, but starting with a Chicken stick or gloved hand is also explained in the manual. Though, there in the manual is a mistake to explain on this hand start: 1, 2, 3, 4. Open (Close?) the choke valve fully. 5, 6, 7. Open the choke valve fully. How about no rpm limit set?

garyr1

Yikes! More poor instructions. Well I suppose we are all used to this by now, but for the life of me, I can't understand why the Pacific Rim manufacturers won't and don't simply have a decent translation done by someone. Investing all that $ and effort into manufacturing and then putting the very rough instructions in the package is a serious annoyance to many in this hobby, especially the newer modellers.
Hats off to Hangar 9 and Great Planes for doing this, but as for the rest, pretty ugly.
In this case, dangerous!

Catalinaflyer

Cost, COST, COST, is the simple answer. OShas good english instructions translated to proper english. The reccomend using a starter to cover thier liabilty. A serious kick combined with the rough edge of a composit prop on a bare hand could result in your new name being Three Fingered Bart. I have had many Super Tiger glow engines that all start backwards. The cure for them, flip the prop backwards and they run fine. Some engines are more prone to this than others and it's the nature of the beast.

As for getting decent "proper" english instructions, thats very expensive. One of the clients I fly RW aircraft for has many manufacturing interests in China and one day while waiting on a fuel truck I was talking to him about the stuff I have been buying from China and the lack of decent translations. He was very quick to point out that getting "proper" english manuals and instructions are a pretty large expense on every item he manufacturers and imports. Of course he is dealing with high end electronics which are usually more complicated than an internal cumbustion engine.

I'm very happy with my 33 and very impressed with it. Once I got the technique figured out for starting Ihaven't had a single issue since. Once wet it starts on the first flip and once it's warmed up it starts on the first or second flip every time without choking it. Much better that I can say for my DA's or DLE's.

MTK

As far as starters go, forget the Dynatron. It will not turn the OS33GT on a fully charged 6S lipo....25 volts. The engine has gobs of compression, it's ratio appears higher than typical for the 30cc class. It's power is greater so it goes hand in glove

garyr1

Yep. I accept the COST of translation services is high.
Glad the OS33 is working well for you.
Thanks for the post.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

This engine has more R&D hours, is machined to closer tolerances and made with better materials than any cheap $300.00 engine. OS AND Enya make some of the best hobby engines in the world. Enya, with thier 180x GS is proving they are willing to work on designs that are far above the competition.

R&D, tighter tolerances and material knowledge are all expensive. Take apart a cheap engine when new and flush it to see what comes out. Inspect the plating, bearings and overall workmanship. For the most part you will find something lacking. You can polish a turd and make it look pretty but is still a turd, you can have an poorly machined, ugly performer that will work for a while or you can pay a little more for a quality piece. I would rather run good engines, servos and batteries for years safely than loose a plane because I wanted to save $50.00.

DLE has come along way, but they don't build engines of this quailty with this expertise, yet. Mintor 38 while pretty has reports of not making the power equal to the OS33 and is louder on it's stock exhaust, what a bargoon. A polished fully machined turd.

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

I have owned and have flown the PTE36R, OS GT33 and the Mintor 38 with standard mufflers. I have also flown the same OS GT33 and Mintor 38 with the ES30G CF tuned pipe. By far the OS GT33 can handle props APC 17-12, 18.1-10W, XOAR 19-8 wood, XOAR 18-10 Swoad and the Biela 19-10 with good performance and vertical. The PTE36R was only flown with standard stock muffler. It has good (not as good as the OS) performance with the XOAR 19-8 wood and the XOAR 18-10 Swoard. I'm sure the PTE will get stronger with more run time. The Mintor only had decent performance with the XOAR 19-8 prop.

My conclusion so far is that the OS is a very powerful engine with higher compression. Its bore, stroke and porting seem ideal when used with either the OS muffler or the ES30G CF tuned pipe. I have taken various RPM readings. They don't mean much to me as I judge performance by throttle response and vertical performance.