Bob dunlop

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Will do

aerobatixkid

How hard is it to mount DLE 30 in this cub? Is there a template available???


Shane

tevans55

Shane -
It is very easy.
1. Cut a hole in the bottom of the cowl large enough for the cylinder head to accomodate.
2. Attach standoffs to the the engine
3. Stand plane vertically so that the firewall is parallel to the ground. (I hung mine on the back of a tall chair by the gear)
4. set the engine inverted on the firewall and slide the cowl over the engine. (Leave off the muffler and spark plug)
5. I taped the cowl where I wanted it.
6. Move the engine around using the prop shaft and cylinder head until you like the fit in the cowl. (you may need to adjust the hole in the cowl)
7. When you like the fit carefully remove the cowl without moving the engine.
8. Carefully draw circles around the standoffs on the firewall.
9. Remove the engine and standoffs and drill out the center of the circles.

I just did this 2 weeks ago for my DLE 30 and it worked great. You will notive that the engine with stock standoffs is a little bit to long. Just slide the cowl out a little and carefully drill your cowl attachment holes and I think you will be happy without any need to use alternative standoffs.

Remember to reinforce the back side of the firewall with some fiberglass as this is a big engine with more vibration than I think the plane was designed for. On my first flight one of the rods between the rudder and stab broke at the metal ring due to engine vibration...and that with a brand new balanced Xoar 18x8 prop. Of course the engine is set rich for break in.

Good Luck
Tim

hidaven

im thinking of a custom made small tru turn alum spinner.......If I keep the cone small it should look good. I can also paint it black or cub yellow to blend it if silver doesnt cut it.......

Bob dunlop

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Found a site last night that has 12mm WWI prop nut and spinner...problem is its 1.75 pitch thread and we need 1.5 pitch...I'm gonna call them Monday and see if they can make it in 12mm x 1.5
sierragiant.com

fly_69

Blitz,

from the pictures it appears that you have not cut out the openings in the cowl cheeks. Therefore no air can flow through the cowl. I have the PNP version with the zenoah 20 and it came with these already cut open. I dont have any cooling problems.

besides, these are big open air catchers on the real cubs so it does not look wrong to have them open.

can someone post a good pic of this opening so we can see it?

Fly

cannonball200

My Feedback: (36)

Here are a couple of pictures of my J-3 Cub cowl cut out for the Dle 20 with stock muffler.
Thanks,
Eddie of OKC

hidaven

Let me know what you come up with...."I won't maiden until I get the front end looking good. : )

fly_69

The cheeks are the big black parts above the engine cylinders. The front of these need to be opened up for air to flow in down and around the engine. As long as the volume of air coming through the air openings on the bottom behind the the front of the cowl are larger than the volume of air coming in the front top of the cowl then the air will flow through the cowl and not around it.

Also.. if you create a slight air dam in front of the lower rear openings, this helps to create a vacuum to help force the air through the cowl.

cannonball200

My Feedback: (36)

Blitz, You just need to make the opening a little larger as in my pic's I posted to let the inlet air flow through the engine head/ fin area. Mine may have a larger opening for the exit also. The important part of the cooling is inlet air through the fins around the engine head and plenty of exit hole to get the hot air out of the cowl .....
My J-3 operates fine like I have done it.

Thanks,
Eddie

aerobatixkid

Tim, does the firewall have thrust lines marked on it?

BlitzPig

Thanks, Iopened the bottom up some more and made the two holes below the prop hole slightly larger as well. Currently using a Xoar 16x6 for break-in. Even with this prop it has plenty of power with the DLE-20. Mine came out pretty light. 14.4lbs empty and right at the aft CG limit. So far it flys great and is a hoot for touch-n-go's! Still needs some fine tuning like dialing in some differential on the ailerons and work on a throttle curve.

hidaven

Anyone open up a bottom rear hole as an air exit for an electric motor setup?

tevans55

Shane-
The firewall already has the appropriate thrust set. You don't have to make any additional thrust down or right.

Bob dunlop

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys..just came back from the field and the maiden of my Cub...Wow! This has got to be the easiest plane I have ever flown!
Also...this is the fIrst plane I've ever maidened that didnt require at least a little trim ...flies great at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle but also hauls the mail wide open..at least for a Cub anyway..LOL.
Anyway..to answer your question..I didn't make any extra openings in the cowl or fusalage
and the motor was just barely warm even after a 10 minute flight with a couple wide open passes.
One of my flights was about 12 minutes and the batteries were at about 3.75 a cell after landing and taxiing in from across the field...perfect!
This was with an 18x10 Xoar wwI Saber prop...I have a 19x10 and 20x10 I will try tomorrow.
CG feels right on the money at 4 1/4"....comes in real slow and gentle with power off...I did the Oring mod but this plane lands so gentle I'm not sure how necessary it it is...can't hurt anyway I guess
Probably the least exciting maiden I've had yet !...felt like I've been flying it all summer...H9 rules!
Bob

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I felt the same way but remember this plane is not a trainer. Before anyone decides to blast me for this comment research the design behind the airframe and why it was built in the first place.

Bob dunlop

My Feedback: (1)

I've never flown an "official Trainer" but....and this is my opinion ....this plane is really slow and gentle and easy to fly....

SrTelemaster150

My trainer was not an "official trainer" either.

It was a SR Telemaster W/a Saito 150 jp front. I managed to solo W/O a trainer cord & didn't crash either. Not until after I soloed that is.

hidaven

Bob, great info!
Im puzzled as to why you didnt get more flight time!?!??
I was figuring on 15 min. When you step up to the 19x10 you will probally be down in the 10 min range....
How was the 18x10 as a prop size? Did it have enough thrust for pulling out of trouble?

How was the roll out and landing on our 6 inch inflatables???
Lastly, did you watt meter to find out the amps?

Thanks!! dave

Bob dunlop

My Feedback: (1)

Could prolly get 15 minutes if I really tried hard enough...I did a number of high speed passes and the wind was 12-15 mph.
The 18x10 had a ton of power...tires are awsome....
Didnt put a watt meter on it yet
Bob

hidaven

you should probally put a watt meter on it not so much for the watts but for the amps........
make sure your not too close to the max amps of the esc.

Bob dunlop

My Feedback: (1)

Using a Castle 120 HV v2...not a chance of drawing too many amps with this setup

hidaven

true........would help me out since i have a hv 85...........crossing my fingers that the amp draw is under 80

Bob dunlop

My Feedback: (1)

If the weather holds out I'll be flying again tomorrow and will check it out for you...pretty sure you'll be just fine w/ the 85

hidaven

Bob, will the cub pull vertical and climb? Get some videos!!!