wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

If you could tell them that several of us are awaiting these new ignitions very eagerly and we'd love them as soon as possible!!

Whit

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Is the new ignition a "plug and play" or was there a modified cam installed in your 215 to alter the spark timing? I'm also waiting for a new type module as my old one seems to have gone
bad. Mitch

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Detlef Kunkel,

Is the new ignition an exact size drop in replacement????
If it is not, do you have dimensions or pictures of the new ignition please?????

Thanks - Jaketab

heinzulrich

Also, what is the cost going to be. I got three of these engines.
Heinz

mogman

Interesting devolpment on my 400 today. Just going over everything before the flying season gets into full swing.

I pulled out my lifters and they have a very pronounced deep groove worn in the bottom of them where they ride on the cams. Obviously, they don't rotate like an automobile engine's lifters. To me this shows either a lack of lubrication or too soft a material.

I do put a drop of oil on the lifter before each day's flying. Not sure how much, if any gets down between the lifter and the guide. I have 35 flights, about 5 gallons of fuel, on the engine. I have added a little bit of 20/50 engine oil to the gearcase to see if I can at least get a little lube on the base of the lifters. I drained out the little bit of gear oil I had put in after the warning of gear oil with EP additive being corrosive to brass bushings etc.

Cheers,
Dave.
W/B #180

wingstrut

Dave, I was just wondering, the EP gear oil that you drained out, how long was that oil in the engine?.

By the way that info on the EP gear oil having additives that are corrosive to yellow metal came directly from the oil company, in case anyone has doubts.

Sounds like lack of lube. The reason for lubrication is to keep metal from touching metal so you don't have wear.

I don't have that much running on my 215, I pulled a lifter and it had grease on the end and no signs of wear. I have the original grease in it and as best I can tell it is one of the newer engines.

Sorry not much help.....Ron

mogman

Ron, I never ran the engine with the gear oil in it. I had put it in when all the discussion about the grease started.

Dave.

wingstrut

Dave, you may want to contact I believe AMR is the distributor in Canada, they may be able to steer you in the right direction....Ron

stivvy

Hi Bill,

If you have an early 215, are the cam lifters the ones with ball bearing ends ? If so one of the balls could have become detached and damaged the gears etc (see earlier thread on replacing these with lifters without ball bearings).

My 215 has the ball bearing type, which I will replace.

Just a thought.

Steve

crusier

My Feedback: (37)

Thanks serial 693 I think that's what happened. To time motor once I have parts do you know if the timing mark goes at 1200 o'clock in line with #1 at top dead center?

stivvy

Sorry Bill,

dont know about timing - anyone out there who does ?

The Flying Scot

Hi Detlef,

I have a 215 Moki 5 cylinder which has never been run and I am sure it is an early one as the test certificate is dated 1999.

After reading through this thread it looks like I have a few changes to make before I run this engine such as replace cam followers, use electric pump and remove the old grease from the front housing and replace it with the grease or gear oil.

What Grease / oil are you using in your Radials? From the thread I know it is a thick oil but I could not find a specification for it. (Apologies if I have missed it reading through this thread)

Do you have any other recommendations I should follow before using this 1999 Moki?

Regards

Arthur

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone have a working Moki ignition module they wish to sell as from a bad crash which may have destroyed the motor? Mine seems to have quit working. I've not been able to find anyone who'll test and repair and replacement cost is unbelievable. I'm waiting for the newly developed ignition but in the mean time I'm down. Mitch

darryltarr

My Feedback: (2)

Gentlemen,

I have a question, which may be absolutely obvious, but just to be 100% sure.

Please confirm the Larger Screw (below the H/L Needles), is the Throttle STOP Screw. If NOT, then please can someone tell me what the factory (default) setting is (how many turns out).

Many thanks,

Darryl


[img]

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

it's the stop screw and can be backed out and thrown away. MItch

darryltarr

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks a lot Mitch.

I had adjusted mine and made a note of how much influence it had on the CLOSED/STOP position of the CARB, but then forgot where the original setting was. Nice to know it can be discarded although I will keep mine set at about 4 turns out.

Thanks again,

Darryl

tony67

My Feedback: (51)

Has anyone intalled a Spektrum telemetry RPM sensor on there Moki if so how and where did you place it. I thought it was a motion sensor like a hand held tach and would install it in the cowl facing the prop but it has a magnet and instructions say to install at the back of the crankcase. Just not shure where the best location would be on a moki.
Thanks

oy4310

Hi guys - I need some help here.

Today I started my Moki 150 for the second time. I have an APS fuel pump installed.

The Pump have 5 cell NiMh and the engine 4 cell NiMh
Both times the engine run perfectly. Total ½ gasllon for now in the test bench

After 10 min in the test bench today yhere was a little bit of smoke from the electronic ignition and the " other end" the black cover at the engine (see picture)

Is it my fault?? or some electronic failure??

Another question: something I dont understand [] was mentioned in the manual for the pump about the clear festo line. Can you tell me if I should do anything!

[youtube]qw8RHJbmCPk[/youtube]

thias

Hi Christian,

I do not know if you have an electrical problem, but you definitely have a mechanical problem. Did you not recognized the missing cylinder attachment screw and the gap between cylinder and crankcase on your picture?

Regards,
Matthias

oy4310

Ups sorry, but it isn't my picture . It's stolen from an earlier input in this thread. I only use it to explain where on the engine there was smoke. There must be some electronic device below, but I can't understand why it should break down with normal run and 4,8 volt.

Ienclose a pic of the REAL engine

oy4310

About the new ignition.... I found this on Youtube:

[youtube]WFC-Xy6_6b8[/youtube]

www.youtube.com/watch

Detlef Kunkel

Guys,
sorry for keeping you waiting for an answer.
The new Ignition will replace the original ignition in all parts, 100%.

This means to replace the black box AND the ignition coils and the sensor at the front of the engines gear housing.
It will be NOT necessary to open the gearcase, as the timing ring with the magnetos will remain as it is.
It will be necessary to open the engines backplate (very easy, no difficult work) and take out the coil assy. The space will be used no longer, the engine "empty".
You will have an ignition box and a box with the coils; both to be mounted beside the engine.

Test results on the 150 engine are extremely good.
The engine equipped with turbulator, APS-Pump and new ignition will perform second to none, gaining 300 rpms and have an excellent running behaviour. Missing cylinders did never occur again during the test.

Starting is as easy as you see it in the little movie.

Hinckley Bill

My Feedback: (569)

Detlef,

That's great news....

Even better news will come when you let us know that your firm has the new ignitions for the 215 and 250cc radials.

Bill

Detlef Kunkel

Bill,


to make it clear; I do NOT make them; I was only involved in the history that led to that product.
I was tired of the problems that fill complete forum threads and asked the guys who make the ignition for my Phoenix-engine if they could use their (highly adaptive) concept also for radials. They thought about it and did say yes... and what was left to do was to find out how to adapt the build-in sensor ring with the magnetos on it, and fine tune the ignition ( timing & advance curve) with the radials.
This took some weeks, and the result is really first class. The 215 is here and runs really as fine as can be.

So it is not wrong to say the the Phoenix-ignition is the father of what we will be able to purchase soon :-)


The ignition for the 215 / 250 where made shortly before the 150- ignition was developed on the test bench.

Both types will bee available soon.

Distributor in the US is supposed to be Vogelsang.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Outstanding! 

When will they be available? I have a 150 that is down with the missing cylinder issue. I would take one today!

Thanks very much for working on this.

Whit