CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
#1726
#1727
My Feedback: (10)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gary,
Well explained, sorry for the delay in thanking you.
Whit
Well explained, sorry for the delay in thanking you.
Whit
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Glad to have you aboard Whit.
Here is why I combine these too products. First, you already know the vurtues of Hysol. Many of us would call it simply the best adheasive where an epoxy is called for. The strength of the Hysol is why I use it with the ballons, which, as you know, weaken the epoxy it is in. Now, we usually use the microballons to reduce the dencity and thus the weight of the epoxy for the given volume. However, In my case, this is a secondary benfit. What the microballons do for this great adheasive is to keep it in place. You can make nice fillet joints and fill gaps even on a curve, and the Hysol does not run out when it is laden with the ballons.
So, you get the light weight expansion of the glue, and also have a very strong epoxy 'paste' that will stay where you put it. This saves both weight, you don't have those large puddles, and time, you can cover a lot of ground where otherwise, you would need to rotate your ship and do several applications. Plus, you have a super strong joint, even with the ballons.
Hope I explained that well enough. Let me know.
ORIGINAL: wphilb
Gary,
Gary,
One of your fans (lurkers) here. Can you tell me about using Hysol and micro balloons? I'm familiar with Hysol, with (West Systems) epoxy and different micro balloons but have never used Hysol with micro balloons. Can you tell me why you combine them (weight savings I assume but....) and is there any difference in using Hysol vs epoxy and micro balloons.
Whit
Here is why I combine these too products. First, you already know the vurtues of Hysol. Many of us would call it simply the best adheasive where an epoxy is called for. The strength of the Hysol is why I use it with the ballons, which, as you know, weaken the epoxy it is in. Now, we usually use the microballons to reduce the dencity and thus the weight of the epoxy for the given volume. However, In my case, this is a secondary benfit. What the microballons do for this great adheasive is to keep it in place. You can make nice fillet joints and fill gaps even on a curve, and the Hysol does not run out when it is laden with the ballons.
So, you get the light weight expansion of the glue, and also have a very strong epoxy 'paste' that will stay where you put it. This saves both weight, you don't have those large puddles, and time, you can cover a lot of ground where otherwise, you would need to rotate your ship and do several applications. Plus, you have a super strong joint, even with the ballons.
Hope I explained that well enough. Let me know.
#1729
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: wphilb
Gary,
Well explained, sorry for the delay in thanking you.
Whit
Gary,
Well explained, sorry for the delay in thanking you.
Whit
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Glad to have you aboard Whit.
Here is why I combine these too products. First, you already know the virtues of Hysol. Many of us would call it simply the best adhesive where an epoxy is called for. The strength of the Hysol is why I use it with the balloons, which, as you know, weaken the epoxy it is in. Now, we usually use the microballoons to reduce the density and thus the weight of the epoxy for the given volume. However, In my case, this is a secondary benefit. What the microballoons do for this great adhesive is to keep it in place. You can make nice fillet joints and fill gaps even on a curve, and the Hysol does not run out when it is laden with the balloons.
So, you get the light weight expansion of the glue, and also have a very strong epoxy 'paste' that will stay where you put it. This saves both weight, you don't have those large puddles, and time, you can cover a lot of ground where otherwise, you would need to rotate your ship and do several applications. Plus, you have a super strong joint, even with the balloons.
Hope I explained that well enough. Let me know.
ORIGINAL: wphilb
Gary,
Gary,
One of your fans (lurkers) here. Can you tell me about using Hysol and micro balloons? I'm familiar with Hysol, with (West Systems) epoxy and different micro balloons but have never used Hysol with micro balloons. Can you tell me why you combine them (weight savings I assume but....) and is there any difference in using Hysol vs epoxy and micro balloons.
Whit
Here is why I combine these too products. First, you already know the virtues of Hysol. Many of us would call it simply the best adhesive where an epoxy is called for. The strength of the Hysol is why I use it with the balloons, which, as you know, weaken the epoxy it is in. Now, we usually use the microballoons to reduce the density and thus the weight of the epoxy for the given volume. However, In my case, this is a secondary benefit. What the microballoons do for this great adhesive is to keep it in place. You can make nice fillet joints and fill gaps even on a curve, and the Hysol does not run out when it is laden with the balloons.
So, you get the light weight expansion of the glue, and also have a very strong epoxy 'paste' that will stay where you put it. This saves both weight, you don't have those large puddles, and time, you can cover a lot of ground where otherwise, you would need to rotate your ship and do several applications. Plus, you have a super strong joint, even with the balloons.
Hope I explained that well enough. Let me know.
While I was at it, I went back and corrected my spelling. I must have bumped my head on the way to the basement that night.
#1730
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gary,
It's all great and I require one or two of the options to complete my lighting system. Thank you. However, I noticed that the gun system was not included. I'm happy waiting with bated breath. I also want the sound system for the guns please.
Just as a side note the Top Flight Giant ARF Corsair 86.5" has pre made gun holes and tubes. So I may want two orders of the guns. If they will work for this kit as well as the CARF then this may open your market as well. Just an FYI. When I get my order from you I'll see if I can work them into my Top Flight. I'll also take photos.
Thank you,
It's all great and I require one or two of the options to complete my lighting system. Thank you. However, I noticed that the gun system was not included. I'm happy waiting with bated breath. I also want the sound system for the guns please.
Just as a side note the Top Flight Giant ARF Corsair 86.5" has pre made gun holes and tubes. So I may want two orders of the guns. If they will work for this kit as well as the CARF then this may open your market as well. Just an FYI. When I get my order from you I'll see if I can work them into my Top Flight. I'll also take photos.
Thank you,
#1731
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gary,
It's all great and I require one or two of the options to complete my lighting system. Thank you. However, I noticed that the gun system was not included. I'm happy waiting with bated breath. I also want the sound system for the guns please.
Just as a side note the Top Flight Giant ARF Corsair 86.5'' has pre made gun holes and tubes. So I may want two orders of the guns. If they will work for this kit as well as the CARF then this may open your market as well. Just an FYI. When I get my order from you I'll see if I can work them into my Top Flight. I'll also take photos.
Thank you,
Gary,
It's all great and I require one or two of the options to complete my lighting system. Thank you. However, I noticed that the gun system was not included. I'm happy waiting with bated breath. I also want the sound system for the guns please.
Just as a side note the Top Flight Giant ARF Corsair 86.5'' has pre made gun holes and tubes. So I may want two orders of the guns. If they will work for this kit as well as the CARF then this may open your market as well. Just an FYI. When I get my order from you I'll see if I can work them into my Top Flight. I'll also take photos.
Thank you,
I am fine tuning the gun system. A little tweaking is being done to the packaging of the components. I am working with the designer of the electronics to make a more durable package. Very close. We had some issues on our Top Gun plane, and don't want any repeats. Nothing worse than pulling the trigger and see nothing happen. Gun smoke is also still being developed, by me and my machinist partner, Dan. However, our first system will not have the smoke, but it will accept the option when we have it ready to release.
The idea is to make the system flexible for other aircraft. The guns lights are pretty easy. The sound system is the challenge on smaller planes. We will look at each aircraft and make every effort to adapt to it's restrictions.
#1732
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Sounds great Gary,
Yes I agree. For my Top Flite Corsair just the lights is enough for me. My CARF will get the works!
Thanks for the update.
Yes I agree. For my Top Flite Corsair just the lights is enough for me. My CARF will get the works!
Thanks for the update.
#1733
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Sounds great Gary,
Yes I agree. For my Top Flite Corsair just the lights is enough for me. My CARF will get the works!
Thanks for the update.
Sounds great Gary,
Yes I agree. For my Top Flite Corsair just the lights is enough for me. My CARF will get the works!
Thanks for the update.
I think we proved it's scale worthiness at Top Gun last year.
#1734
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
These devices came in. They are a Smart Fly 3D Equalizer, and a Smart Fly Equalizer II. I had the owner order them for his wing. With these devises, only two wires are needed from the RX in the fuselage, for the flaps and ailerons, keeping wing connections to a minimum.
With any large aircraft, aileron differential, or more up that down, is desired, to null out adverse yaw. With the Equalizer II, two servos can be adjusted for travel, centering, direction, and end points from the same signal wire (one channel). You don't need to use two channels slaved together to accomplish this.
On the CARF, there are (4) flap servos. All the arms on those servos are oriented the same way for geometry and space. So the servos need to be reversed on one wing. With the 3D Equalizer, four servos can be controlled individually from just one signal wire (channel).
The result is that (6) servos are being mated together from (2) channels instead of (4). Fewer connections to the wing, and it frees up those extra channels.
The cost, $39.95, and $54.95.
For another $39.95, you can put an Equalizer II on your tail wheel and rudder, and free up yet another channel.
We love these things.
With any large aircraft, aileron differential, or more up that down, is desired, to null out adverse yaw. With the Equalizer II, two servos can be adjusted for travel, centering, direction, and end points from the same signal wire (one channel). You don't need to use two channels slaved together to accomplish this.
On the CARF, there are (4) flap servos. All the arms on those servos are oriented the same way for geometry and space. So the servos need to be reversed on one wing. With the 3D Equalizer, four servos can be controlled individually from just one signal wire (channel).
The result is that (6) servos are being mated together from (2) channels instead of (4). Fewer connections to the wing, and it frees up those extra channels.
The cost, $39.95, and $54.95.
For another $39.95, you can put an Equalizer II on your tail wheel and rudder, and free up yet another channel.
We love these things.
#1735
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
The air tanks, tucked neatly away in a cool spot on the CARF. These are for the main gear doors, the only devices operated by air on this airplane. This is a closed circuit, with no disconnects, so air leaks are rare. These are medium size Robart tanks, held in place with a little low expanding spray foam (Great Stuff) from Home Depot.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
#1737
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: glazier808
Gary,
if i may....I have a couple of the equalizer II's to try out. I've still to get to them, are they easy to program?
Gary,
if i may....I have a couple of the equalizer II's to try out. I've still to get to them, are they easy to program?
Casey
The 3D Equalizer with also accept an auxiliary power source. Both perform a system check each time it is powered up. If it senses anything wrong within itself, or the servos it is connected to, it will not function. Cheap insurance for our expensive planes.
#1739
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: glazier808
Thanks Gary, I must admit, I have issues programming electronics at times. Nice that some one has made one for dummies like me
Thanks Gary, I must admit, I have issues programming electronics at times. Nice that some one has made one for dummies like me
Casey
It took me two days to figure out how to answer a call.
Anyway, there is a little learning curve as with anything, but they are really simple to operate.
#1740
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
The only real mod to the airframe for the electric main gear. A small hole in the spar for the jack screw.
I think I will take some measurements this time and post the exact size and location of this hole. It should be very very close on every plane, and many conversions are being done. Might speed things up a little for you guys.
In the second picture, you can also see the mounts for the gear door air cylinders.
I think I will take some measurements this time and post the exact size and location of this hole. It should be very very close on every plane, and many conversions are being done. Might speed things up a little for you guys.
In the second picture, you can also see the mounts for the gear door air cylinders.
#1741
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gray,
I have the Down & Lock for my folding wings and still thinking about the main gear. Two questions. One. Am I required to send my main gear to Down & Locked for this conversion? Two I have already installed my tail wheel so can I do the conversion now?
I have the Down & Lock for my folding wings and still thinking about the main gear. Two questions. One. Am I required to send my main gear to Down & Locked for this conversion? Two I have already installed my tail wheel so can I do the conversion now?
#1742
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gray,
I have the Down & Lock for my folding wings and still thinking about the main gear. Two questions. One. Am I required to send my main gear to Down & Locked for this conversion? Two I have already installed my tail wheel so can I do the conversion now?
Gray,
I have the Down & Lock for my folding wings and still thinking about the main gear. Two questions. One. Am I required to send my main gear to Down & Locked for this conversion? Two I have already installed my tail wheel so can I do the conversion now?
You will need to get the tail gear out for the conversion. The wood frame can stay. If you don't have the cockpit in yet, you may be able to get your arm in there to get the front of the cylinder mount loose. They do not need any of the air parts, so you can take the air cylinder loose from the gear and get it sent in while you work on getting the ram out. You may be able to unscrew the ram from the front anchor bar and leave the bar in. I don't think it would be in the way of the jack screw. After the conversion, the gear will be bolted in from inside the gear bay. Very easy to reinstall.
#1743
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gray,
I have the Down & Lock for my folding wings and still thinking about the main gear. Two questions. One. Am I required to send my main gear to Down & Locked for this conversion? Two I have already installed my tail wheel so can I do the conversion now?
Gray,
I have the Down & Lock for my folding wings and still thinking about the main gear. Two questions. One. Am I required to send my main gear to Down & Locked for this conversion? Two I have already installed my tail wheel so can I do the conversion now?
Our first experience with this aircraft was with one totally stock. This was the motive for our going to Mitch to develop the conversions to electric in the first place. We saw the virtues of the airframe, but really were not happy with the systems chosen for it.
#1744
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Me too buddy. I usually go way over my phone contracts just because I hate the thought of learning a new phone. I just got the Galaxy III and am really hating the stupid thing.[>:]
It took me two days to figure out how to answer a call.
Anyway, there is a little learning curve as with anything, but they are really simple to operate.
ORIGINAL: glazier808
Thanks Gary, I must admit, I have issues programming electronics at times. Nice that some one has made one for dummies like me
Thanks Gary, I must admit, I have issues programming electronics at times. Nice that some one has made one for dummies like me
Casey
It took me two days to figure out how to answer a call.
Anyway, there is a little learning curve as with anything, but they are really simple to operate.
#1745
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: Dwhart24
Once you get used to that phone you'll love it. I was an iphone user for over 3 years and I wish I would have switched a long time ago.
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Me too buddy. I usually go way over my phone contracts just because I hate the thought of learning a new phone. I just got the Galaxy III and am really hating the stupid thing.[>:]
It took me two days to figure out how to answer a call.
Anyway, there is a little learning curve as with anything, but they are really simple to operate.
ORIGINAL: glazier808
Thanks Gary, I must admit, I have issues programming electronics at times. Nice that some one has made one for dummies like me
Thanks Gary, I must admit, I have issues programming electronics at times. Nice that some one has made one for dummies like me
Casey
It took me two days to figure out how to answer a call.
Anyway, there is a little learning curve as with anything, but they are really simple to operate.
BTW Dave, thanks for the tip on the calenders[8D].
#1748
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: buckeye, AZ
Posts: 131
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Received 0 Likes
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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
The air tanks, tucked neatly away in a cool spot on the CARF. These are for the main gear doors, the only devices operated by air on this airplane. This is a closed circuit, with no disconnects, so air leaks are rare. These are medium size Robart tanks, held in place with a little low expanding spray foam (Great Stuff) from Home Depot.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
The air tanks, tucked neatly away in a cool spot on the CARF. These are for the main gear doors, the only devices operated by air on this airplane. This is a closed circuit, with no disconnects, so air leaks are rare. These are medium size Robart tanks, held in place with a little low expanding spray foam (Great Stuff) from Home Depot.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
Please explain a little, well really ALOT more on the gear door closed air system. How does this work? What type air valve are you using. a Crayon drawing of this would be nice. Cause I can't picture this in my head.
Thanks,
Vern
#1749
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: vfrank59
Gary,
Please explain a little, well really ALOT more on the gear door closed air system. How does this work? What type air valve are you using. a Crayon drawing of this would be nice. Cause I can't picture this in my head.
Thanks,
Vern
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
The air tanks, tucked neatly away in a cool spot on the CARF. These are for the main gear doors, the only devices operated by air on this airplane. This is a closed circuit, with no disconnects, so air leaks are rare. These are medium size Robart tanks, held in place with a little low expanding spray foam (Great Stuff) from Home Depot.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
The air tanks, tucked neatly away in a cool spot on the CARF. These are for the main gear doors, the only devices operated by air on this airplane. This is a closed circuit, with no disconnects, so air leaks are rare. These are medium size Robart tanks, held in place with a little low expanding spray foam (Great Stuff) from Home Depot.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
Please explain a little, well really ALOT more on the gear door closed air system. How does this work? What type air valve are you using. a Crayon drawing of this would be nice. Cause I can't picture this in my head.
Thanks,
Vern
As for valves, we use both the electronic kind that plugs directly into the RX and requires no servo, like Airpower sells (about $100), or the simple Robart valve and servo setup. Both work fine. With the Robart valve, you just need to get the push rod as lineal as possible to reduce side force on the O ring seals. The Robart what will be in this one.
Here is some info on the electronic one. Cool stuff.
http://www.airpowernet.com/twe3/prod...products_id=51
#1750
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: buckeye, AZ
Posts: 131
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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
I will try and do some kind of schematic for you. But what I mean by a ''closed system'' is that the entire system, door cylinders, air tanks, fill valve, control valve, air lines, air pressure gauge, everything, is in the wing. No disconnects, so the system stays aired up all the time. This is possible because we use a mechanical drive on the tail gear doors, so no air is needed in the fuselage. It is a normal system with exhaust air, so it does eventually need recharged, but the system is never totally evacuated, as it would be if you had to connect it to the fuselage during assembly. It is really more simple than maybe I am describing it. Hope this helps.
As for valves, we use both the electronic kind that plugs directly into the RX and requires no servo, like Airpower sells (about $100), or the simple Robart valve and servo setup. Both work fine. With the Robart valve, you just need to get the push rod as lineal as possible to reduce side force on the O ring seals. The Robart what will be in this one.
Here is some info on the electronic one. Cool stuff.
http://www.airpowernet.com/twe3/prod...products_id=51
ORIGINAL: vfrank59
Gary,
Please explain a little, well really ALOT more on the gear door closed air system. How does this work? What type air valve are you using. a Crayon drawing of this would be nice. Cause I can't picture this in my head.
Thanks,
Vern
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
The air tanks, tucked neatly away in a cool spot on the CARF. These are for the main gear doors, the only devices operated by air on this airplane. This is a closed circuit, with no disconnects, so air leaks are rare. These are medium size Robart tanks, held in place with a little low expanding spray foam (Great Stuff) from Home Depot.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
The air tanks, tucked neatly away in a cool spot on the CARF. These are for the main gear doors, the only devices operated by air on this airplane. This is a closed circuit, with no disconnects, so air leaks are rare. These are medium size Robart tanks, held in place with a little low expanding spray foam (Great Stuff) from Home Depot.
We still look forward to those D&L gear doors actuators that will completely eliminate the need for air.
For now, this is OK. The D&L electric gear work in such a way that should a jam occur, the load is immediately sensed and the gear stopped. A simple flip of the gear switch resets them. The other good thing is that, in the very unlikely situation where you loose all your air, the gear will easily push the doors open without kicking out. We have tested for this failure, and it works with Mitch's gear conversion.
Please explain a little, well really ALOT more on the gear door closed air system. How does this work? What type air valve are you using. a Crayon drawing of this would be nice. Cause I can't picture this in my head.
Thanks,
Vern
As for valves, we use both the electronic kind that plugs directly into the RX and requires no servo, like Airpower sells (about $100), or the simple Robart valve and servo setup. Both work fine. With the Robart valve, you just need to get the push rod as lineal as possible to reduce side force on the O ring seals. The Robart what will be in this one.
Here is some info on the electronic one. Cool stuff.
http://www.airpowernet.com/twe3/prod...products_id=51
Thanks,
Vern