Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Does anybody about some e-shop in Europe, where is possible to buy a Century Jet scale pilot?

facia

Hi radfordc,
your Kyosho Spit is looking real good.
Lot's of detail already right out of the box.
Looking forward to the finished project pics and
please, post the Maiden if you can.

I shoulda, coulda, woulda have gotten it when the LHS had it on clearance sale.

Andreas
Happy building and flying.

Warbirdguy

Prekin,

If you dont find anyone in Europe, My home is just the next state over from CJM. Not sure if they wont ship to you but I would. I can purchase it for you and have it sent to me and Ill send it on to you. Of course you will have to pay the cost of the part and shipping lol. But I wont add anything to it. Just what ever the costs are PM me if you want to talk more about it.

Jamie

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Thank you very much Jamie,
it is great idea! I know, that I will have to pay the shipping, you are not Santa Claus!
And one other question. What is the meaning of the CJM and PM. []

Thank you.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Prekin, 

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks for the explanation Casey.
Now is everything clear for me.

rebranger

I'm not "down" on gas engines. I have several running, SV-26's, DLE, A's, RCG's & RCGF's.
It's the "transition" or the learning curve.
It took us (me & my flyin buddy) a couple of years to learn them. Eventho, we had years of experience with chain saws, outboards, motorcycles, etc. model airplane use is way more particular. As in anything, it's attention to detail; the little things that cause a dead stick, balky cranking, transition, etc. Same goes for burning up ESC's & puffing Lipo's on the elcetric side. Kinda like the old oil filter commmercial, "Pay me now or pay me later" ! But, that what keeps this hobby interesting, trying & learning new things!!
And, WarbirdGuy is correct with the points he made in his post (s).
If I were "new" to gas, I wouldn't choose a nice Warbird to "learn" on. Get a Stick or a 4 Star to use for a "test bed" first, then put the gas engine on a Warbird.

rebranger

P.S>, Has anybody seen, tried or built  the 50cc Spitfire ARF that was advertised on Hobby King?

Warbirdguy

I think someone on here is doing one or at least has ordered one.

Amen about the learning curve LOL

When I flew an old G shark with an old worn out Q35. I would stick my finger in the carb, crank till I felt fuel on my finger, then every time, around the 3rd flip, it would fire up. Ive pretty much used that procedure on every one since. Now they have chokes on them. On these, I kick on the ignition, pull choke, set to idle, then flip it until it hits. Turn choke off and crank till it starts, most of the time 3 or 4 more flips.

Im about to start my learning curve on electrics lol

I have a wing mfg B25 that I think Im going electric with. Its built and was set up for os91fs's but I think electrics would be easier. I have the small electric b25 that flies great! Anyways, Im sure Ill goof up and buy the wrong stuff along the way or "poof" a speed control or two

You gonna be at the warbird meet this year in Huntsville Ed? If so, Ill probably see you there.

Jamie

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

There are a couple of threads going on now:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11404435/tm.htm

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1792324

rebranger

You bet! Good Lord Willing & the Creeks don't rise!
I just hope we have it, I need to begin working on getting a CD. That's our (RCRC) problem, not enuf folks with CD's.
Maybe Skip will find a 50cc Spit at Perry. You going?

albsurfer

I like electric for my aerobatic & 3D planes .70 fs / .55 2s engine size and below. The handling and response is great. I haven't flown a general purpose or warbird that was electric yet. The lipo prices are a killer in the larger sizes! On my electric planes, I'm set up for 4 Stroke torque electric versions instead of high rpm 2 Strokes. It drains batteries quickly on 12-20 mph days.
I do know a couple of guys who fly 30cc-50cc electric Extras, Edges, etc. and you just don't get the flight time like on nitro or gas. My one friend did say that he liked his electric 30cc setup best for aerobatic flight, but that he just hated 6 minute flight times versus 12-20 min. with gas or nitro.

Pluses and minuses on all types of power systems.

Chucksolo69

Hey guys, how many flights on your Spitfire or how many Spitfire planes do you have to have before yo become an "ace?"

ddemarco

Hi Steve,

Thank you very for your very kind offer. The .81 I'm using does not have a pump. Anyway, it wouldn't be a problem for me to buy spare parts online (for instance in tower hobbies). The issue in my country is customs. So even if you bought the parts and sent them to me, chances are they would be stopped here and I'd have to pay ridiculous fees to get them out of customs. I really thank you for offering that, though.

Anyway, I have a friend going to Florida in a couple of weeks, so I'll buy the Saito from Horizon Hobby, and also the spares for the .81 from tower, and mail them to her address in FL. She'll take them back to me.

Cheers,

ddemarco

Thank you Andreas, I'll certainly watch out for that. I expect to attempt Maiden #2 in about three-four weeks, as soon as I get the Saito.

Cheers,

Warbirdguy

Probably not Ed, got to be too expensive in gas and a room to stay in overnight. I need to stay away from those places till I finish up some of these birds first LOL.

Here is what we do about putting on contest that are short of CD's. Get whoever has a CD to register it and you or some other person do the actual work

WBG

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Good deal,

Keep us informed on your progress.

rebranger

They defined ACE as 5 kills, I have only killed 2!! Still got a CMP 120 size with an OS 160. I would think augering in a couple would qualify for ACE in RCing!

ForcesR

Steve and Sonny;

Sorry to be so late with the answer to your question. I just read your question concerning fuselage skin pattern. The pattern is shown on page 61 of the manual; after you take measurements from the fuselage of the length and width of sheeting required; you take the pattern from page 61 and enlarge it via photo copier to the size you require. Trace the enlarged pattern onto balsa sheeting and cut the sheeting to fit itto the fuselage. Don't forget to wet it with denatured alcohol so it will bend without cracking. This method worked great for me.

Roger

mogman

Managed to get a little more done....stab done and elevator framed up.

This was a National Balsa full kit, and while it's generally not bad, there are a few glaring errors etc. A few of the parts that should be a straight line, look as if they've been cut with a hand held laser...quite wavey. A couple of stringer notches out by a fair bit.

Not the kit cutters fault, but the motor box sides are lite ply, I will remake those in aircraft ply. On some of the lite ply parts, the laser only cut through 2 of the 3 layers of ply, not a really big deal, but not up to the standards of some of the other kit cutters I've dealt with.

Anyway, nothing that can't be overcome, and I'm sure it will all work out in the end.

Cheers,
Dave.

Spitfire Brotherhood #180
Waco Brotherhood #180

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

The weight of the completed Kyosho 90 airframe with all equipment except engine is 8.5 lbs. If I can keep the engine weight to 2.5 lbs the plane should fly very well. The wing loading should be about 27 oz/sq. ft. To give a comparison, my TF P-47 has 200 sq. in. less wing area and about the same weight and it flys great.

I saw a video of this plane with a 20cc gas engine taking off. The plane was off the ground in 1.5 seconds and about 20 feet of ground roll. I ordered an RCG 20 engine to see if it will work.

jet22b

Hi Brothers,
Here are two up-date pictures of the glass work I did on my Top Flite Spitfire kit build!! I use Pacer Z-Poxy Finishing Resin and I must say this stuff is easy to work with!!! What I did and you may think I am nuts, but, I did not go with the cloth, but just use the resin. You may not see it in the pictures, but the wings and fuse came out looking like glass and very smooth. Sanding this stuff is also easy!! The manual say you can paint over the resin, we will see if that's true when the weather get better. One thing I will say, it help the thin sheeting on the wings!!! I can pick up the wings and not worry about putting a hole in the sheeting like before!!! Let me know what you think about the way I went on this bird!! I hope to pick up the EMS Spitfire soon. Looking at going with a 36cc gas engine in the nose. Pro's and Con's are welcome!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Warbirdguy

What will happen over time is the finish will start to crack. As the wood swells and contracts with humidity from hot and cold, the resin will crack along the grain of the wood. If it was to be a hanger queen and be in a stable enviroment from now on, it would probably be ok. But outside in the sun and then shade, cold days and hot days, it will eventually crack. That is what the cloth is for, to give the resin strength.

The cloth by itself has no strength, and the resin by itself has not strength, but, together, they are very strong. Like putting rebar in concrete.

WBG

facia

Hi Sonny,

I am always looking forward to build updates.
Yours is looking good and on it's way.
I never knew you could just use the resin without cloth.
Hm... Something to think about for the next build. Sure would cut
out a lot of work and possible air bubbles.
Let me know how yours works out when you get closer to the finish.
Sure interested in the final result.

Andreas
Happy building and flying.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I have to agree with warbirdguy. Without the addition of the fiberglass you really haven't added any real strength, and have probably just added weight in the long run.

I would give it a good sanding and lay some glass in.

casey