captainron

Thanks Cyberwolf............

Went there and read the whole thing.........most of those things I have done. However, haven't checked the needle settings inside the carb. Sounds like I might need to drop the needle a smidgeon to insure the fuel is not pooling in the pump diaphram area........JEEEEEEEEEEEZ! I did the run the tygon into the fuse area bit, didn't seem to help accept maybe slightly.

I want to see what Jody says. Thanks for your input. I did put that sight on my favorites list for future referance.

CAPTAIN RON

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

you need to move your line outside of the fuse,i mount them under the landing gear.
use a brass tube two inches long, pinch one end shut and cut two small slots in the tube,now the other end of brass tube plug it into the line comming from carb. this is the only way i was able to maintain a good carb setting from the ground to the air,it works.

captainron

Ok Closetguy,
Will try this weekend.

THANKS, CAPTAIN RON


Anybody else tried this wierd little trick?

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

It's not a weird little trick, it's actually how many full scale atmosphere reference vents are configured. It's the correct, most accurate and only method I would employ if I were to need a remote reference for a carburetor. 

captainron

WELL OKEY DOKEY THEN..............Thanks Jody, Thanks Closetguy!



CAPTAIN RON

captainron

Ok, So,
Since this forum seems to have gone quiet, let me pose a new question that we can all ponder........


I had a DA 50 on this Extra that I now have the SE 56 on. Why I took it off? Well, to put it on a Warbird. I never had to do anything to it while it was on the extra and now that it is on a GS TP P-47, it stills runs awesome with no further adjustments or brass tubes or anything but stock.

My buddy has a DLE 55 on a 50CC CAP and it also has had no mods to get it to run right.........As a matter of fact, he mounted the engine that morning, new out of the box. We started it at he field the first time, never touched the needles, warmed it up good and flew it................WHALLA............She ran like a finely tuned machine............AWESOME..........just smooth and lots of power, never burbled once the whole flight.......

I just want to learn here. I'm not slamming anybody or any company or any product. Let's just discuss............So, carb challenged RC'ers like myself can spend more time in the air and less time on the ground tweaking........



CAPTAIN RON

captainron

JEEEEEEEZZZZZ!
DON'T EVERYONE JUMP IN HERE AT ONCE!

Ok, I did the brass tube thing. I'm gonna fly her in the morning and see how it works. I'll report back.



CAPTAIN RON

Weekend Warrior

My Feedback: (6)

well you no I haven't much trouble when it comes to tuning my engines. in most cases out of the box in the plane and away we go on the other hand there are some guys that have nothing but trouble with there engines I think part of trouble is that they tune there engines to much on the ground and then when they take off they lean out and come in died stick.I live in Redcliff ab Canada we are about 3 thousand feet above sea level so the air is alittle thiner so in most cases I have to richen the engine some.I have a rule of thumb and that is fined a prop you like to use I like 23-8 or 23-10 props then tune your engine until it sounds good then richen it just 1/8 of a turn.If you are useing a tack tune until the RPM starts to slow down bring it back until it hit the sweet spot the back it down 2 or 300 hundred rpm's and it should run fine as you will pick up 2 or 300 hundred RPM's in the air. this seems to work for me.

captainron

Thanks Weekend Warrior,

This happens to be one of senarious where nothing has worked. I've been around gassers for a few years. DA, BRison, mostly Zenoah. This one is eating my lunch. BUT, I WILL GET IT. it's a good motor, I just have to find the issue and fix it.

I've done the 2inch brass tube with the little slots and positioined it so it gets absolute undisturbed air. We'll see. I'm gonna fly it in a few hours.


THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT.

CAPTAIN RON

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Sounds like a good way to tune glow engines. Also with altitude and thinner air it requires a person to lean not richen btw as there is less oxygen to burn the fuel. This is why engines lose power with altitude. They run about the same rpm though as the thinner air is less of a load on the prop. Problem is you end up with less lift and thrust so once a person gets up to high altitudes they need to go to a larger engine and prop to try and get back some of the vertical performance for 3D. It doesn't help with lift though and stall speeds will be higher. I was going to leave it alone but some beginner may read it and go down the wrong road. There is no need to be de tuning by 300 rpm. The experts would have fun with that.

captainron

Closetguy and jedijody............and all

Ok boys, here ya go................................Did the brass tube thing. two incher.....cut two small cuts, pinched the end off and ran it back and secured it to the fuel tank..........inside the fuse.

tweaked the high and low needles abit more for a smooth transition and good idle.

taxied out to the active runway and poored the coals to her..........After 6 flights, more tweaking on the needles...leaning until no burble on the high end, leaning the low to match.

On the sixth flight I can truthfully say she is about 98% there. Still got some burble in mid range, normal as she breaks in. Top end is smoothing out. Probably at 98% perfect.......

so, MUCH MUCH MUCH BETTER.........I CAN LIVE WITH WHAT I HAVE NOW.


THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND IDEAS. CAPTAIN RON

STATUS TUNING

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuMHAbeDTDM[/youtube]

Cant fault mine, above vid is from dead cold and sitting for weeks.

Versus my DLE55 below

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtY19f5qOro[/youtube]

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

glad to hear it help,a lot guy's think that the remote breather tube is all fiction,but it works good if you have to much air preasure in the cowl.
your's might work a little better if you move it outside the fuse,i mount all of mine under the cowl between the landing gear.

Weekend Warrior

My Feedback: (6)

I glad you got it all worked out have a good one.

Gabrielsande

Hey there having a look at dle and dla, the difference is quite obvious!

Before buying a DLA, which looked nice for the money,and there is not much to go wrong on a single 2 stroke engine, but comparing both pictures, something caught my attention, and is the nice machined crank case which have very slim mounting lugs,I thought mmm they look to fragile to cope with the vibrations ,and bingo! after a good research found several engines coming lose in the cowling due to borken backplate.

final decision is up to the buyer, But I would not compromise an expensive airframe for saving some bucks, so crankcase looks nice
but not strong enough, shame really because they need just making that just a little thicker. apart for that they runs great and the price is good,walbro carb and same ignition.

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

been flying mine for long time now with out any trouble.gets the exact same rpm as my two DLE55's,all three have FB rings in them.

Gabrielsande

Hi!
yes there are a lot of them out there running great with no problems, but go back on this thread and just look,there are few guys having the same problem of broken back plate, I know they figures are as DLE at a better price,but saving goes when you have to buy other engine.

So my choice will be DLE, (have already two 30cc and never gave me any trouble)

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

I think you have to be smarter than the engine when it comes to bolting the engine to a firewall.

Gabrielsande

Well dude!,when you are repairing engines since you are 13, and you own a car repair service and accident repair centre, and you deal with all sort of problems in some very complex engine rebuilding

 With the years you learn what is good and what is bad, when you build a custom car you learn you way from mistakes, and when something goes wrong you make sure to correct that to avoid future problems So I know how to bolt on properly one of these big boys toy engines!.

So just comparing both engines pictures to me is the evidence they did it wrong it might be ok for years just flying a big scale job around, but extreme 3d no thanks to me, the only dle I saw with the same problem was after a huge crash, no dle had this trouble just flying around.

I'm not a big fan of any particular brand. I own few of them  SAito, OS, Crrc pro,DA, ASP, Enya, DLE, Irvine, Thunder tiger, Super tigre, magnum,Some good some bad some very good.

So I am quite open  to try anything, but when you look in a forum like this and you find some people having this problem why bang my head against the wall?

I'm the guy who enjoys the weekend flying!, learning to fly better and enjoying my pals sharing a nice time, I had to solve more than enough mechanical problems during my week so Im not happy if I'm flying something what I know could fail at any time and what is worse mate, is the safety aspect .

So closetguy seems like you are taking this a bit personal, I'm not saying your engine is crap, even I might buy one to bolt to an old airframe and give it a go, but If I can decide and the price difference to me is not a problem, I think should be my decision to make.

Some people some times say forums are good but they could consume time and headaches and I know now why.

Gabrielsande

Right there!

So decided to give it a go, and test one of these, so bought a second hand one almost new just few tanks, it is looking new, all very. clean.

bolted to the bench to the bench primed it and in just 3 flips it started! so far all good apart form the noise coming from the exhaust !, anyway adjusted the low end for a stable idle, and then when attempted to adjust the high end ,noticed the blades were tracking offset I mean like 5 mm difference, and the engine was vibrating a lot! guessed probably it had a knock or something, looked like the crankshaft was bent.

Removed the spark pug and using a dial gauge on the prop hub in different positions noticed the whole hub was all over the place and the center nut/ prop guide too! ,again I was kind of confirming my fear about a bent crank, and ready to order a new one, but removed the prop hub and checked the crank with the same tool and was zero movement there! shaft was perfect!.

Coming back to inspect the prop hub noticed it was all over the place the center was like nearly 1 mm offset and even the hole wasn´t at 90 degrees of the front face, also the long nut the same all badly machined having the center thread done to one side again with 1mm difference.

Then going through the forum discovered there is a problem with it why is so complicated to make an accurate alloy cylinder in a lathe? I wonder how many people is having a lot of "deadly shaking" problems and not realizing it until is to late spinning a big prop with cone an all at 6300RPM could turn in a serious accident especially with these nice 3d machines which don´t have much wood in them!.

Ordered a new DLE one will report later!

Thanks!

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

mine was bad also out of the box,i just ordered a new one that was for a DLE55.it fit perfect including the timing, it was spot on.

Zabriel

A very old thread but I hope I can get help:
I bought a second hand 87" PilotRC Yak54 with a DLA56 on it. The engine (and the plane) looks as in a very good shape. Bu I am frustrated! I can not start the engine without a starter. As soon as I apply a starter (max 6 turns with a starter) the engine runs great. When it stops, I am able to start it while the engine is hot by hand with a few flips. But when the engine gets cooler again, I need a starter to get the engine running. I checked the ignition, changed the spark plug, checked the plug spacing. Everything is as it should be. Also the carburettor. When it runs, its running great. I have the same problem with a DLE35RA, wich I bought new.. After over 70-80 flights its doing the same. Before I started it also by hand in every condition.
Has anyone had ever a similar problem?

Zabriel

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

If this is primarily a cold start issue, I’d look to see that the choke plate is closing completely.

Zabriel

Checked already. Nothing wrong with them. But a friend told me that the piston rings could be stuck when they are cold. I am going to check them next week.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Does the engine have good compression when cold and after being run. If so, probably not a ring issue. Do you know what kind of oil the prev owner used? What are you using.