zelayaroberto

Great. Oh sweet waiting. Im going to receive the DA on friday, and the Ulti is already at home in El Salvador. All my RC life I'd been an Ultimate owner. Actually I'm almost as excited for the engine and electronics (Smart-Fly) as Im for the Ulti. First time gasser.
RZ

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

It's actually 10mm - just to clarify. Not that it matters because the first thing anyone should do with this spinner is use it as a wheel chock under a dumptruck tire!
Go with the lightened TT or CF spinner - keep the weight down!
Gettin' excited about this weekend - if I can get a flight out to Cali, Maiden time!

zelayaroberto

Besides that it can handle more servos/channels, do yo know of any other differences/advantages between the Power Expander Pro and the Sport?
Im only going to use 7 channels

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

According to the manual... the glow engine prop hub is set 7" from the firewall and the Fuji 43 is set 7.25"

The DA is 3.75" from the bacl of the tabs to the front of the prop washer... to get 7.25" you need 3.5" total.

3" might be fine, but would requite the cowl to overlap back an extra 1/2" over the fuse...

Also keep in mind that if you do use shorter length standoffs you will need agjust the offset slightly to center the shaft over the thrust lines at the cowl...


I'd get a 1" hole saw that has a 1/4" centerbit.... drill through some 1/2" ply and VIOLA... 1/2" spacers with a 1/4" hole already in the center...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Almost forgot... the plane comes with 4 1/2" aluminum spacers already.... you could use them as instead...

zelayaroberto

Great. And the spinner I should get is 4"?
What about my question about the Power expander?
Anyone?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Yep... 4" spinner...

and the Sport PowerBus is more than adewuate for this plane is you must use one...

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

3 inch standoffs are fine but you could use one spacer on each standoff between the standoff and firewall. It would help with balance but it is not required and the will work just fine

I did my Brison's at 6.75 inches from the firewall to the prop hub and had to have both receiver batts on a mount near the back of the canopy to get it to balance with a Cf prop and spinner.

There is no difference other than channels between the Pro and Sport power xpanders except maybe a few grams in weight

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Yes, 3" stand-off's are perfect!
*I* personally would NOT want longer, issues like C.G. & thrust angles start creeping in, in a bad way then.

Also; READ the directions - on page 22 step 6, it tells you how far out you should end up being 6 & 3/4" -to- 7 & 1/4"

Take a look at my setup.....

zelayaroberto

Very nice. Like they said, One picture worth more than 1000 words.
Gracias.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Btw; what costs comparisons can you give us for some basic RC flight supplies like 10% glow fuel 1 gallon.
Here it averages around $12.00/gal what's it cost you down in El Salvador?

Any other comparisons you might share?

Do you belong to any local RC club(s)?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I did READ the directions... it says FIRST approx. 7.25" and the illustration shows 7.25"... and THEN says as long as you are in the range of 6.75" and 7.25" cowl spacing is fine...

With the Fuji 43 installed per the recommendation of 7.25" I had NO balance issues whatsoever... identical weight of the DA50 setup...

I prefer the extra carb distance from the firewall and that little extra 1/2" of sleek looking nose poking out there...

But as you point out... we're both within the manual's specs and the 3" will obviously work...

zelayaroberto

Our cost on RC supplies are way higher, that why every time we have the chance to travel to the US we order and get what we need. If you go to a LHS there everything is going to cost you 30-40% more.
For an example a gallon of glow: $22

And we have a very young Rc-Club, actually Im one of the first 8 member. Here is a link for our web site, it is in spanish.
www.rc-pilots.com
Enjoy it.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

When you have the AWESOME power of a Brison 3.2 on this plane, using the stock spinner for a truck chock would be such a waste. A DA would probably bog if the stock spinner was used with it. [sm=frown.gif]

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

If you go back, the reason I did not use the stock spinner is because mine was way out of balance. I do not remember the amount of weight I needed to get it to balance but it was was than I was willing to use. When I test ran the engine with just the prop, it was as smooth as a single can get, once I added the spinner it vibrated like someone holding onto a 20,000 volt electrical power line

I found that the Pete's CF spinners from TBM are right in line with the tru-turns price wise and weigh lots less [X(]

I found that my Brison definitely pulls this puppy around nicely. I went to a Vess 22A on it and as much as I like the PT model CF prop and the MSC 22x8 (which is considered the best prop for this engine) the Vess is much better, a little more load but it seems to never quit pulling and sinces it's a bit more load, it's as quiet as he Cf prop and way quieter than the MSC.

I like my planes reasonably quiet. Where I fly is not a big deal for noise within reason but it's just a personal preference.

zelayaroberto

Ok, just for peace of mind. For the DA 50, especifically for this engine. Best wood prop. We dont have noise restriction so I dont care about noise. Please, but need recomendation for this engine not in general and in 22x8 size

zelayaroberto

Other thing that I need to figure out: Extensions

Im going to connect 2 left ailerons with a Y, same with the right ailerons. How many and lenght of:
1. "Y" connectors
2. Extensions.
Thanks

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

Some before and afters of my Ultimate.....still not done yet as I still need to add some stuff and wait for my bling bling from Brad....I also trashed the stock landing gear and wheel pants.....Also added a 4" TT Ultimate spinner and waiting on new cowling. The first pic is a before and the rest is Afters.


John

ncrego

My Feedback: (40)

I ran a Vess 23A on mine, and it was a great match. I tried a couple others, and nothing flew as well as the 23a.

zelayaroberto

even for breaking in?

ncrego

My Feedback: (40)

It's not what I used, I started with a 22x8 on my DA50 when I broke it in, but that was before the Vess was available. If I had to do it again, I'd just use the Vess, I'm sure some will disagree, but I use the same prop for breaking in as normal flying. There's no reason to use anything different. If you look in the DA manual, they recommend the same props for flying and breaking in, and just give you a couple larger options after break in.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Don't read/speak Spanish, but your club's site has a slew of great photo's!
Of those, can you I.D. one with you in it?

Lafus Maximus

My Feedback: (48)

Well, Ultimate V2 is pretty much done, just waiting on my receiver to get back from Horizon for a checkup. Took me a little longer then it should have, due to an accident I had epoxying in the vertical stab. I usually don't use epoxy, but I had to on the stabs this time cause they were so sloppy in the fuse. For some reason, the 30 minute epoxy I used on the vertical stab started to kick in about 5 minutes, so it took all I had to just get the stab all the way in, which I did. But, I did not have time to clean any of the dripping epoxy up, and in a panic, I was trying to scrape some of it off with my thumb nail, just panicing, not thinking, and I really dented up the balsa in that area between the vertical stab and the horizontal. So, I had to cut the covering away there, steam out the dented areas, sand, and recover. By the way, what color red is on this plane? The manual says missile red, so I got a roll of that, and it is a totally different red. So I ended up repairing the area with white and recovering part of the rudder to match. V2 is pretty much the same setup as the first one, except I used aluminum angle with a 1/8" plywood backer piece to hold a 4-40 blind nut for the cowl blocks. They are epoxied on and there are 4 socket head servo screws screwing each piece and angle to the firewall, I don't think they are going anywhere. I think it was iflywhenican who said he did that a while back. I also used the landing gear off of the first ulti on this one, cause somehow it survived without a scratch on it, so I have a brand new back up set still. I had a set of 5645's on the ailerons on the first one, but I needed to upgrade the servos in my Hanger 9 260, so I put those in that, and put a set of 5625's I had in the ailerons in V2, should still be plenty of power. I used 1" airwild mlp arms on the aileron servos this time instead of the dubro arms, just cause I really like these airwild arms. They are also on the elevator and rudder servos like version 1. The aileron hinge gaps this time are sealed top and bottom with white monocote to hide the klett hinges, which I used on every surface on the plane. I have not weighed it yet, I don't have a scale here at school, I used all the same equiptment, other then probably putting a different spinner on it, so it might just be a tiny bit lighter then V1. Here are some pics of the things I did differently this time around. Last pic is the new baltic birch ply wing joiners.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Lafus...I have a fix for "dented balsa" that doesn't require removing the covering at all. Fill a super-fine hypodermic needle (the kind used for insulin shots) with water and punch it through the covering and wet the dented area, then heat up your covering iron and gently iron the area. PRESTO!!! no dent-no more. I have fixed deep dents this way also. Especially usefull when you ding a leading edge against a run-up stop. You can also use this procedure with thin CA to repair broken balsa parts.
Hope this helps.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Lafus,

Could you edit your post so it's more easy on the eyes to read?
Split into 3-4 paragraphs.