MHester

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, everyone is dead set against thinning thier epoxy! LOL

But the truth is, that is mainly for structural applications. Not finishing a very light pattern plane. As long as it cures and sands, who cares. And this is the only place I use West anymore. I actually used thinned MGS on my originals V2s, but it has become difficult to get.

There's a thousand ways to do this; this is only one. But it works for me.

So, hang on and let me finish my how-to! Sorry guys but there isn't any way to rush this process. I REALLY wish there was, believe me.

Yes Troy, those are close enough. But the rear bottom is now a bit deeper on the 2.2 version.

-M

awat65

My Feedback: (17)

I thinned my with denatured alcohol "Zap finishing resin"

troyhm

Hi Mike

WHat are the differences between the version 2.0 and 2.2 is it something easy to change ?I am about to cut out all the foam templates over next two nights
Thanks

Troy

Anthony-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Mike,
Way back on page 14 post #329 (Man, I have read this thing too many times) you have pictures of the elevators and mention cutting off the inboard corners and installing a solid piece of balsa. Is this to put a hard point in later for the control horn? This block is sanded to shape and then capped in place? Sorry, just a little fuzzy on the process and guess where I am up to. A rainy weekend coming so I hope to get a lot done!

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, that's exactly how you do it Anthony. Easy stuff.

You can also put the block in place before you sheet it, and that is probably a little stronger. But the ones I'm flying are done like that in the pic, and they have zero wear, zero play, just as stiff.

-Mike

Anthony-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Mike, once I looked a little more closely at the pictures it made sense. Wich way should the grain go on the block? Do you do the same with the rudder or put a dowel in befoe you sheet?

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

The grain on the block is sort of irrelavent in this application. I run it span-wise, side to side.

The rudder dowel is easy, just pick up most of the hinge facing and you're good to go. I install blocks underneath the skins sometimes, sometimes not. It depends.

-Mike

wlcornelius

Off topic Mike, What starter do you us an on what size engins. Plus I recieved my starter from B & P a Magnum 14.4 2.2amp. It cranks my OS 120 surpass plus my OS 140 with no problem but my flying buddy has a older model but new in box Super tigur 3000 an won't buge it. Back to the starter an charger, do you have this starter if so do you use the supplyed wall charger 14v 200mah or can I us this feild charger from tower hobbie, here is look up number ( LXCTZ5 ) Help. Or if anybody else can help. By the was the BM is flying strong, looking forward to some compitisions in Cullman an H-ville.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I personally use the B & P Starter. It comfortably cranks an OS 1.60, as well as all of my YS stuff. The super tiger is a different animal. The older large ST's have a lot of compression. Very similar to how the Moki stuff is. A ST 3000 a guy I flew with had, we alwasy had to start it with a chicken stick. Sometimes if you got it wet, you could get it to spin if you backed if off of the compression and got the starter spinning before you put it on the spinner..

Arch Stafford

wlcornelius

How about your charging system for the starter an can I come up with something with the Tower charger?

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I use the wall charger. I fly a lot, and only charge about once a week. I'll just take it out and let it charge over night.

Works great,

Arch

Anthony-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Ok, an attempt at some progress photos. Things have slowed down a little since classes have started but still making headway.



Tail alignment done.



V2 versus V2.2 rudder 1/2" longer and 3/4" taller. Must have grabbed some heavy wood because it is 10 grams heavier.



Carved out tail block. Easily done with some patients and a piece of brass tubing.



Now just filler blocks and sanding remain!

Ok somebody pm me and let me know whether you see the upper or lower photos

wlcornelius

Pitures didn't show up, just little red X's

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

pics of my priming stage and the painting rack I made, copied from Mikes.......

Anthony-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Great paint rack. Should be a Kfactor article! Details on how the plane is held at each end please!

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Anthony,

I will when I get a little time later this week. Busy doing final primer coats today.....

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good, both of you!!!

I just finally went out flying mine yesterday some....MAN it felt good to fly again after being buried in this shop for the last few months!!!!!

I am so dead in masters though.....but at least I can still fly a little

On a related note, that DZ came to life almost immediately, and man....I am REALLY liking this engine!!! my thought is "finally, somebody really got it right!" Electrics may indeed take over the world some day. But by then, the equipment choices should be reasonable enough and reliable enough for just about anybody. But I'll tell you straight out, it's going to take a law banning glow engines before I give up my YS engines (assuming they continue to make ones like this 160!)

This is what I would consider a critical note: The aluminum nose ring that central sells for the YS 160 is TOO TIGHT. I thought it fit awfully tight, but figured that was normal and they must have known what they were doing. Well, after killing 2 sets of servos and almost destroying my hard points on my plane, I had a discussion about it with Merle Hyde. He was very particular about telling me to take a dremel to that O ring and loosening it up. While we were at it, I had him make me a few prototype mounts. Although I haven't been able to test the mounts fully yet, loosening the nose ring dropped the vibration and noise on my airframe to almost nothing. I hit the inside of the O ring with a dremel sanding drum until it was a slip fit. Still a little snug, but easy to put in place by hand. I also used some dielectric lithium grease that I got from radio shack.

Problem solved, it's now about the same vibration level as the OS 140. With the new mount, it may be even lower. I'll let you know how this progresses!

-Mike

petec

My Feedback: (58)

First Arch and now you...how long until all the OS guys convert to YS?

On a more building note....Where is the info on the V2 tail modification? I've looked throught the thread but I think I must be overly fatigued.

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

It's not really here......it's one of those things that I have, but it's so trivial that I haven't realy bothered to make it an official anything.

But if you want it, I can email it to you.....just might take a few, I'm sorta slammed today.

-Mike

petec

My Feedback: (58)

When have you ever known me to be impatient? When you get a minute just send it...I figure I might as well get both planes up to the latest revision while in the bones...

troyhm

Dean

Can you tell us the steps in getting to the primer stage from fiber glassing to filling to priming

Thanks

Troy

bdbd

My Feedback: (62)

Gas why not. OK Mike here is the plan, almost there. I am building a Black Magic v2.0 and by all my calculations I should be well under 11lbs. I have secured an ES pipe and am currently waiting on my engine to come from the Netherlands (MVVS 26 gas) should have it in the next day or so. Merle Hyde is making the mount for me and should ship out later this week. I have already received my header from Karl Mueller and now only waiting on a few other small items. The plane will be set up with lithium ion batteries both for ignition and receiver. I did not glass and paint the fuse as I wanted to save weight just in case I needed the two or three ounces. If all goes well and comes under weight then I can glass and paint later. Should be flying in two weeks. This could be very embarrasing if this flops....

wlcornelius

Talking about fiberglassing, I thought I read somewere in the tread someone was going to post the way it it an was done, Mike do you know who said they would do this for the less fourant.

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

I can't imagine.......

Pateince, I have a lot going on in my shop and it's not that big....I'm that far, but I wanted to finish it through painting....if you wish I'll just post it all up to the glass and leave it.

-Mike

Dave Smith

Mike: If you are within 10-12 days of a complete report,my vote is to wait for the complete package. But to be honest,I finished glassing and ballooning mine today!

Dave