airshot

FiveoclockCharlie,

Your plight sounds very familiar, back up a number of pages and I had the same problem, more than once. It is NOT your battery pack it is your main motor. The brush system in these is not a class act.... I have two new ones that will not get my heli more than 1 foot off the floor, but then others will lift it like a rocket...same battery pack !!! Thank GOD they are cheap... order two or three at least, along with 4 or 5 tail motors to keep on hand. I have been thru 5 main motors, two were duds, one is so-so and two are like rocket engines. One more thing for you and everyone else...get a good charger/cycler for your battery packs, as I have other cars and trucks I do have an ICE premium charger and this does make a world of difference in battery power. Good flyin !!

Airshot

airshot

Robo,

I have also had trouble with Raidentech, but did talk to them, if you can understand what they are saying, their problem is recieving these items from overseas. They are a distributor, sales are made based on estimated reciept of product. When the product does not arrive on time, no shipment to customer. They use a seperate company for the internet payments, so it is difficult to get a refund. Here is what I do......use a credit card... in the comment box put "do not complete order if items are not in stock" If I don't recieve my order in a reasonable time or do not recieve a ship date I then cancel the credit card purchase with the credit card company. YOU WILL THEN HEAR FROM THEM!! (Raidentech)
Another one to stay away from is HOBBYTRON they do not return calls or e-mails as there orders are all "as is" no warranty..no nothing and from me...no more buisness!!

Airshot

weeweeboi

here is the metal rotor head for you guyz who are interested.

[link=http://cgi.ebay.ca/Dragonfly-Walkera-upgrade-heli-CNC-head-aluminum-part_W0QQitemZ150101353118QQcategoryZ2563QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]Shabalabading dong i will sing, a lovely song =)[/link]

3D-Flyer Kevin

Deleted

My Name Is Brad

I have a newly filmed 12 minute vid of my falcon 40 that is waiting approval on youtube. I will post ASAP!!

FiveOclockCharlie

Yup , you were absolutely right.It was the main motor going out.My local HS had the Venom brushed in stock so I got it , soldered it up and it worked great. Right up untill I lost control and smacked the tail against a barstool.So , I lost the tail bearing and broke the shaft.I`m ordering a ducted fan as soon as I can find one in stock and do that conversion.

robotronski

I did a test way back when with the GWS ducted fan, and it worked fine with stock Falcon 40 4-in-1, but the little motor had to really spin to keep the gyro happy. I wonder how long those tiny motor brushes would last...

Also there is a guy on the RCU - electric helis - walkera DF4 pages that did an excellent job of going to a ducted tail unit. He even made a sharp looking tail fin to incorporate the unit. Even has some pics of the finished project.

BTW I used a GWS EDF-40 motor for my test run, not sure what the other guy used but it looks like the same fan housing diameter.

Oh and, GWS makes two 40 mm fan units that I know of. THe EDF-40 is rated for voltages of 6 to 8.4 while the EDF-40H (the "H" is for high voltage) is best operated with 9.6 to 12.0 volts dc. Not sure what battery type or voltage you'll be using. FYI - My unit does have a heatsink already factory mounted onto the motor housing . The EDF-40H makes about the same thrust as the lower voltage unit but at a significantly lower amperage draw.

I buy all my GWS stuff from a place called Aeromicro dot com. Great service, prices and selection. Never had any problems with them, they even called me once about an order to make sure they sent me what I really wanted.

I wish you the best of luck with the project. Once you get it dialed in, post some pics for all of us to drool over....

Robo

joeyhatch11

Here again is the same question that has yet to be answered. After you guys got your falcon 40's what adjustments had to be made as far as trimming? Is it more done with the controller or the heli? And what exactly has to be done? Thanks

weeweeboi

Well what i do is i just make sure my battery is centered on the heli. The rest of trimming is on the remote. Very simple

jmaguilar

Has anyone found a way to secure the bearings of the rotor head core?? I keep loosing them. [>:]

Thanx

robotronski

GO back a ways in the Falcon 40 posts and there are some good tips on doing so, also lots of tips at the Walkera Helis posts for DF4 as well. Not sure where, maybe a search will help...

robotronski

Look real early in this thread and I've got some setup tips.

At the heli, mostly worry about keeping the flybar paddles at zero degrees (in same horiz. plane as the ground/landing skids/tail boom etc...) Both must be at zero degrees, everything els you'll do at the transmitter. Loosen the philips screw to adjust them. These tend to get whacked out in shipping I assume...

I had to add a few clicks of Down and a few clicks of Rudder trim as well.

Flies fine after that.

Let me know if you have a more specifuc problem... Happy to help!!!

Robo

smokestarter

I orderd mine from Raintech.com last week and tried today to get some shipping info from them by e-mail and phone with no luck. After seeing others complain about them I did some research and found out that thier real company is [link=http://www.egrandbuy.com/]Egrandbuy.com[/link], both companies have the same address and phone numbers and web layout, so they must use Raintech.com as a shell company. Just thought I would share what I found out.

rcmaster123

My Feedback: (3)

Here is the video My Name Is Brad was talking about...

[link]http://blindskater1213.vidiac.com/video/176e11c0-7814-4b41-8b05-98f40182e55c.htm[/link]

mrasmm

Hey dude, I'm not sure if this is your vid (there wasn't a link =P), but I just did a search on your youtube username. It's only a 10 min vid... so it might nto be the same one you are talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFjATwvS1tQ

Good job man, you're flying about 100 times better now than in the first vid I saw, and no training gear =) Btw don't take any offense to what I said earlier about your vid showing how durable the falcon 40 is.... everyone's first flight looks close to that, especially without any sim time =) Great job on the video!
Nice prio's BTW too =)

Edit: looks like someone beat me to the link =P

mrasmm

Hey robo... I have a q for ya... I remember a while back you saying something about the mosfets in the 4 in 1 and replacing them with higher spec'ed ones. I was just wondering if you had any pics of the chip(s) that you replaced... I think I remember you saying they were 8 pin IC's? The ones I have seen are basically a transitor with a place to mount a heatsink.

Anyways I was just wondering so I could look and see on my unit from a different chopper could be replaced if it ever had to be.

Thanks for all the info and informative posts =)

I have another question that isn't really related, but I am trying to find someone that has a better electrical knowledge than me. I am looking for a dc to dc converter that will match up with the part number is mc34063p made by IT in an 8 pin dip package. I don't know if you will know, but maybe you could point me to where I could find out.

Thanks again!

robotronski

Not sure what your asking for about the MOSFETS for the 4-in-1 .

Do want to see a pic of one I've upgraded to the higher amp rating????

I'll try to help if I know what you need...

robotronski

Look at the data sheet for the converter here.

http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp...hword=MC34063P

Oh and I I buy all my parts from DIGIKEY. Serious selection and a good supplier of all kinds of goodies for the serious hacker...

mrasmm

Thanks for the quick timely reply =). I did find some simular datasheets... but I don't know what the P is for at the end (mc34063P) Like on the link you sent it had a datasheet for a mc34063a. So I am not sure what the difference is... on alot of datasheets they will tell you what the letter specifies, like higher operating temp or something.

Sorry for the confusion on the mosfet. What I was wondering is what part do you replace it with (like you said an n-channel To-220 or something with 110amp surge.. but what is the part # that you used), and also a pic of the replaced chip would be great!

I do appreicate you taking time and helping me out =)

ThePig0079

ok i had to replace my servos....replaced with hi 55....what mods are needed?

mrasmm

If you already have the 55's installed... you just need to make sure they are hooked up with the correct polarity and in the correct channel. Otherwise you might need some extra foam tape and zip ties, because I think they are a smidge smaller than the stock servo's.

I hope that's what you mean...

For the wires on the servo's the dark color is the ground, the red is the positive, and the light color is the signal. Just hook them up with the same polarity that the stock ones were.

ThePig0079

does everyone know that there is a exceed forum on here not being used>

robotronski

The Super Secret Replacment MOSFET is the Fairchild Semiconductor (great website too) HRF3205 and heres why:

100A max current rating YOW!!!!! How do they do that ???? Original MOSFET IC had an 11A max rating I recall...

(hint: dont power your heli from a welding machine and you'll be OK)

55Vdc supply limit (Thats a lot of LIPOS in series to surpass 55 Volts)

"On Resistance" of only 8 milliohms (.008 Ohms) Thats AMAZING to me !!!!

On the 4 in 1 board the original 8 pin (chip type, surface mount) mosfet has 4 pins all used in parallel for the Drain (i think), 3 pins all in parallel for the Source and one lonley pin used for the gate. Really only 3 circuits not all 8 as you'd expect huh????

The best solution is to attach wires to the TO-220 package to allow for flexibility and connect the wires to the circuit board where you removed the smoked 8-pin power mosfet IC from. I tried attaching the HRF3205 directly to the circuit board and had a hard time with getting the legs of the new MOSFET to cooperate with the required placement location. Did it and it worked, but never again like that.

I made a deliberate solder bridge across all the shared pin locations so as to utilize all the existing circuit board traces to distibute the load evenly.

You can use big wire for drain and source connections, teeny wire for the gate circuit (insignificant gate current as these are voltage controlled transistors)

You'll have to mount the transistor somewhere outside the original 4 in 1 plastic case (use a to220 Heatsink too, as overkill protection)

I also have purchased some similar Surface Mount IC's to experiment with but have not had much free time to goof around lately.

Working three jobs (2 are part time ) to support the heli habit right now !!!!!

Dang Heli Addiction is taking over my life !!!!! [:@]

Hope this helps. Robo

robotronski

Heres a photo:

[img][/img]

Look at the Volcano Blast in the removed IC.

rcmaster123

My Feedback: (3)

yeah thats it, youtube has a 10 minute max... I filmed and edited it...