ronf79

kevzdp,
Did you get your servo reversed yet? Here is a pic of the dip switches on the back of the tx. Make sure they are as noted in the picture. If not, it will reverse you controls. Be careful not to change #4 as it is the throttle and if you reverse it what you think is throttle off will be FULL THROTTLE!!! If the dip switches are your problem, then it should be #3 that is off instead of on which is wrong.
Hope that helps.

ronf79

robotronski

I have everything to go into the repair mode except I still need the LASER eye surgery !!!! DANG !!!! Those tiny IC are killing me !!!!! I am lucky though that I have very steady hands and can do the precision work if I can somehow manage to see what I'm working on.


Did you ever order any of the 8-pin MOSFETs from Digikey???

Hope the flying has been good down there lately.

Hasta Luego Mi Amigo,
Robo

Rdrunner

I guess I found out that the trim pot on my receiver is the culprit, it got hot and melted onto the 14 pin IC, with the help of some experts here. I am waiting to order a few stuff and get the Esky receiver and try to see if I can get my Heli airborne, it really sucks being grounded and being very busy at work does not help any either

The 6000 btu unit should do you pretty well, I have one in my workshop, as I build plastic scale models, can't handle being without one

mrasmm

congrats on the a/c =) I just got one that is probably pretty close to that one too =P It's also got a remote. When I was looking though all I wanted was a digital one, because I had a manual one and it just couldn't kep the temp right. It would fluctuate up to 15 degrees based on the outside temp =( Anyways, what a nice feature, promotes lazyness even more =P just another thing I need!

About the IC I haven't ordered one yet. What are the stock IC's rated at again?

Rdrunner

What do you guys think of this RTF combo advertise for $400.00 http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/product_...oducts_id=5128

robotronski

Scale Models huh?????

Did I mention the recent purchase of the Kyosho Hang-On R/C Grand Prix bike?? (semi-scale sorta' kinda)

There are some guys out there running brushless setups doing serious power wheelies !!!!

Do a search on a crazy nut called "Chuck Stunter" and see some of his video action of his heavily modded cycles.

When I bought the thing I had no idea it was a kit with a million pieces on those plastic" Trees" like the old days.

Want to get two running so I can race my brother.

You need more R/C vehicles on your hobby bench, we all do !!!!!

robotronski

11 Amps Max

Bones27

Rdrunner, that's a nice looking package for $400, especially with a Futaba Tx and Rx. The aluminum case and all the CNC upgrade parts are impressive. I'm a machinist, it's hard to tell from a picture but the machine work looks pretty good.

blueberyumyum

I just had a quick question guys.... I recently got my falcon wrecked it then fixed it ... You know the drill... My wuestion now is the is probably a half inch of play in the main shaft causing the whole head to have play ... should this be there or does it need to go away?? also are the flybar paddles supposed to be on an even plane ? besides the fact thats its been real unstable i seem to get a lag between the start of the tail motor and the head rotor is that normal?? Thanks for all the help i have already received from this forum and the help i am sure i will get soon!!

Rdrunner

Yes you have Robo, remember when we talked about the bike races,


I did, but the videos were inop.

Rdrunner

Blueberyumyum

You should not have that much play, make sure that the main shaft is all the way flat with the main gear
and that your rotor head is not damaged


Regarding your flybar, you have the right answer

Rdrunner

Did you click on the picture links for a close up shots ??? I'm very impressed with the price and the setup to but would rather switch the servos with Hitec and GY401 gyro

blueberyumyum

so when you pick up the heli by the main blades it should stay completly staionary??? no upward movement at all .. what happens is when it spins up you can see the main gear rise up that half an inch or and the main gear becomes flush with the frame..... seems o cause the head to wobble.... how do you fix it ??

Bones27

Rdrunner, I did look at the close-up pictures and the machine work is nice, and if they used a quality CNC machine and setup the tolerance should be spot on, no more than a .001" deviation from specification between matching parts such as blade grips. I too would go with a Futaba gyro, if you haven't noticed yet, I am a Futaba fan. That's all I used on my RC cars, never had a problem with their products. I haven't tried the Hitech servos yet, but plan to replace the stock Falcon 40 servos with them as needed.

Bones27

Blueberyumyum, find the Allen screw on the main gear, loosen it up, apply downward pressure to the top of the rotor and upward pressure to the bottom of the main gear, when the main gear has slid as far as it will go up on the shaft tighten the Allen screw down. If nothing else is broken that should remove the free play.

Bones27

Blueberyumyum, one more thing, there should be an e-clip on the main shaft just above the top shaft bearing, if that clip is missing it will allow the shaft to move up and down.

blueberyumyum

Got that as tight as it will go now... but i am still getting a consitent wobble in the rotorhead ... i dont know why i am kinda new to these things and man has it been WORK so far ... any help or maybe an exploded view would be greatly appreciated... As of right now the flybar paddles are even, and the blades are pretty tight ( so far that has worked best) the wobble does go away once i reach past the ground wash level but it seems pretty wild to me once it gets up ...also the swash plate is level... THANKS for all the help rdrunner and bones.. maybe you got a few more answers to help me get this bird off the GROUND!!!

Bones27

Are you still getting the 1/2" of up and down movement in the main shaft? Is the e-clip in place on the main shaft? When you say wild, do you mean it wants to move in a direction by itself or jumping around or up and down? Give us alittle more information to work with. I don't have an exploded view of the Falcon 40 but most of the cheap electric heli's are the same, just check out some of the manufactures web sites and look for the download section. I'll look and if I find one, I'll post a link for you.

Bones27

Blueberyumyum, Here is a web site for an exploded view that is identical to the Falcon 40: http://www.walkera.com/en1/download.jsp.
Click the buttun that says exploded diagrams, the file you want to download is HM4# Z20042604 it is on the third page of diagrams, the very last file. Hang in there, we'll figure this thing out just keep posting information for us.

blueberyumyum

after i moved the shaft it took alot of the slack but there is stil a little play no matter how hard i try ... The clip is in place... and seems to be holding much better since i readjusted it ... When it gets up just about a foot of the ground the nose will pull hard left even with the trim like six clicks over to the right ... when you get it off the ground should your controls become alot easier to control ?? the tail seems to be te culprit of the swaying provided that the shaft wobble isnt it making it a complete wreck to keep stable ... The best way i can describe the slack i am talking about is that the pin moves up away from the frame... Well i hope i shedded a little more light on the subject .... thatnks Guys tons ... you helping me loads !! p.s i think exceed rc should put alittle more i there manuals if it wasent for you guys we falcon flyers mightnever get off the ground!!

blueberyumyum

Ohh and one more thing does you tail motor start the minute that your main rotor come on my tail seem to surge on after about 1/3 of the throttle is applied ??

Bones27

Let's break this problem down and fix one thing at a time. When you pick the heli up by the rotor head, how much space is between the e-clip and the top bearing? There should be a little; you should be able to slide about 2 sheets of notebook paper or less between the e-clip and top bearing when holding the heli up by the rotor head. That will give you a clearance of about .010" between the e-clip and top bearing. This should be the max amount of clearance. I have mine set at .002". To achieve the .002" clearance I had to make the Allen screw slot in the shaft wider to allow the gear to slide further up on the shaft. You can also use a feeler gauge set if you have one to make these measurements. You said the swash is level. Is it level in both directions, i.e. front to back and side to side with the battery connected to the heli and the servos centered?

Bones27

Your tail rotor should start to spin when the main rotor starts, have you tried adjusting the bottom slider under the left stick. Go one click at a time and apply throttle after each click, when the tail rotor starts pretty close to the same time as the main rotor you have reached the proper adjustment. The trim slider to the right of the left stick should be set at the bottom of its travel limit.

hookedonheli

The price for the heli seems very good for the quality of the product but have you checked out the shipping cost? WOW!

Rdrunner

My heli was going crazy and found problem with 4in1, in the trim pot, Blueberyumyum, you may also want to check your 4in1 too,
after following recommendations from Bones27

Yes Hookedonheli, I did, $500.00 still does not add up to a complete TRex 450 se combo or come close ( I don't want to spend so much, as you can read on earlier post that this hobby will suck you dry, lol ), it would nice to own a TRex, I just don't think I could handle seeing my TRex laying in pieces on the ground []