Stickbuilder

Must have one of my old ones.....

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

trlambsr

Hi all WACO lovers.
I have just returned from our annual Octoberfest at DCRC in Maryland. The widow of one of our flyers asked if I would see if I could sell one of his kits that he left behind. So here is 1/5 Pica new in the box. A little smaller then I like. is there any interest in it pleas let me know. Oh what is this thing worth.
TR
WACO Brotherhood # 69

Stickbuilder

TR,

One went this week on ebay for $255.00. It had been opened, and from the photos that I saw, some of the pieces had been worked on (a little). I also don't know if the manual or even the plans were intact. The box was damaged. I have paid (in the last couple of years) $335.00. The one that belongs to your friend is one of the later kits. Most of the, "Red" kits have exceptional wood, and the cutting is crisp (I did say most of), and the kits have lots more detailed parts like the fairings. Did you look in the box? Does it appear complete? Is the wood banded by assembly? If you answer all these questions as a yes. I would say that the kit is worth somewhere around $300.00 give or take a little.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Got the engine dry fitted last night. Gassers have their own set of unique challanges don't they? I would have thought that it would be an easier fit than going with the twin glow, but it has some issues of its own. It will require a bellcrank mounted on a tab to make the throttle work. I wish that I had not made the tank box quite so wide. It required a little surgery on the front bottom tank corners to be able to access the engine mounting hardware. Not a real problem, but just aggravating enough to remind me that these planes will fight you somewhere along the way. Looks as if I will need to lay my hands on a set of 1/2" spacers, or make a set to space the engine far enough forward to clear the cowl. I'm going to use one of the hatches (right behind the cowl) to access the engine kill switch. The kill switch also has a momentary switch that would require a Rube Goldberg set up to make work, so I will probably use the throttle trim and back the throttle stop screw out far enough to allow the engine to die when the trim is pulled back past low idle (I really do miss the old radios that had a mechanical pots instead of the electronic trims that are there today). Anyhow, I'm still moving forward with it (sometimes)

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Guys,

Here are a couple more pictures to go with the detail plans in post #3660 on the step peg(s). These are from YMF Classic NC 14081

P1 Lower Peg (near fuse/langing gear fairing joint) and wheel pant
P2 Upper and lower step pegs, the upper is retracted into the fueslage just below the forward Cabane Strut
P3 Upper step peg extended and in use

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Bill, I found some spacers at Lowe's that worked very well. They are made of hard nylon and are located in the specialty hardware drawers. They come in different diameters and wall thicknesses; I chose ones with the greater wall thickness and a hole that an 8-32 screw was a close fit. You can cut these to whatever length you need, and I backed mine with a fender washer where they contact the firewall, so they don't "dig in" when you tighten the mounting bolts.

SuperCub Man

I finished the top wing last night, except for the aileron and the interplane strut fittings, and I'm starting on the bottom wing this AM. Thus it looks like I will be working on the fuse mid to late next week and I am wondering if any more has been done on the FG cowl with the evenly spaced blisters? I expect I'll get the wheel pants from Fiberglass Specialties but I'd rather not use their cowl with the grouped blisters as it is not the same as the plane I'm modelling. Also decisions must be made on the gear as I'd rather not use the wire gear. I was given a set of sprung gear that could be adapted for the Waco but not being a machinest I'm hesitant to work on them. Any progress on the Aluminum gear??

skylarkmk1

Jim,

I think it will be a while before Sierra gets them out. It is still in the research stage, drawing will have to be done so the CNC machines can make the gear, any bugs worked out etc. Definately not an overnight process.

If any of you guys have full scale drawings with measurements and/or pictures of the gear with out fairings, please forward them to Darrell at SPC. mailto:[email protected]

trlambsr

John
I thank you for the Support for the Sierra landing gear and Tail wheel. If the Brotherhood shows interest strong enough he will probably do the smaller scale first because it is the larger market.
So I ask the members to Show interest. Just lets all remember " A squeaky Wheel Gets The Oil.
TR
WACO Brotherhood # 69

Nightstalker

Hey Don - Welcome aboard! Glad to see you appreciate the attempts at humor as well. I don't post much on topic in here, but I do try to keep it light when it gets too serious.

As far as e-flight goes - I was asking a Mechanical Engineer at work a few years ago about some electical issues I was having on a piece of sh#*... err... "state of the art" automated test equipment and he looks at me and says, " Todd, when they start putting ball bearings on electrons... I can help you out. Until then, I suggest you find a EE (Electical Engineer)". So looks like you are now the EE in the thread (E-flight Engineer) [8D]

It's not the Electrons (-)... or the Protrons (+)... it's those dang Queertrons (?) that worry me.

Out Here,

Todd
WACO Brotherhood #47

bladerunner1955

My Feedback: (72)

Hey Todd,
Anytime one of the Brotherhood needs any information on electrics feel free to ask. I might need some question on some gas stuff coming up if a couple trades go like I think they might???
Don Bladerunner
Waco Brotherhood #68

Stickbuilder

When they manage to package, "Free Electrons", I may become interested in one of the Sparkies.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

SuperCub Man

John - Have you heard anything about the cowl?

skylarkmk1

Jim,

Bill would know more about that than I. If you have the kit cowl and bumps (plastic), for a YMF make a new bump layout strip with 14 equal divisions with TDC between 2 of the bumps. The bump layout strip on the plans is for the UMF with paired bumps.

SuperCub Man

Thanks John. I'm building this beauty from the plans posted at House of Moy and with your very helpful manual. As a result I have nothing to work with other than what I've found in this thread and what is available through Fiberglass Specialties and whoever? I read somewhere that someone was sending the correct cowl for the YMF to another FG supplier and this was what I was refering to. If Bill knows more about it, than I will direct this note to him. I know the pants will come from Fiberglass Specialties and with the "adjustments" that Bill did - will work. I called Fiberglass Spec. and they said they would return my call - but that was a few days ago!!! I thought I might direct them to this thread and indicate that he might sell a number of YMF cowls with the obvious interest in the YMF variety, displayed here. But probably just a pipedream!

Stickbuilder

Jay (damifino)(Brother #25) has the cowl that is being made for a plug. I will try and contact him to see where he is with it. Stan's will be doing these cowls, and Jay has talked with him.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Tony V.

will the new cowl have more of a radius on the front more like the later wacos..the old cowl looks more straight
from side veiw....the cox waco also looks straight..i have a new pica kit i bought from pica about 5 yrs ago. i also will have a cox waco that will be delivered tues.

SuperCub Man

Hi Bill, Thanks for that info. As I mentioned in my first posting, I had called Fiberglass Specialties last week and this AM Craig returned my call. He wasn't interested in developing the YMF cowl from scratch but would consider making a mold of the YMF cowl if he was sent the original plastic Pica Cowl with the blisters attached in the proper place. I hope I haven't stepped on any toes!! It's just that I'm anxious to get a cowl "lined up" as I will be into the fuse next week and then it won't be long before I'm hung up waiting for a cowl (actually three of them!). Anyway, if progress is being made I'll try not to disturb stuff!!

Stickbuilder

Tony,

The cowl should be a dead nuts copy of the Pica cowl, with the blisters evenly spaced around the circumference. The Pica cowl has a fairly pronounced radius. If you look back to where I posted the large photo of the cowl, you should be able to see the radius.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Tony,

This is about what I expect with the cowl.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Tony,

My understanding (Bill will correct me if I am wrong) is that the cowl mold will be made from a plastic Pica cowl that has the cowl bumps evenly spaced for the Jacobs engined YMFs by Stans Fiberglass. He (Stans) already has the Continental cowl with paired bumps.

Your observations are correct, the newer cowls have a larger front radius than the older versions in the side views, The newer ones also appear to have a smaller front opening. Cowls are one of those things that can be changed and not change the letter code of the Waco. The Cuban UMFs has the slightly larger smooth cowl, and one plane, identified as a YMF on Airliners, had a ring cowl.

Stickbuilder

Ken,

I went to both of our big box stores, and they gave me a blank look when I asked for the spacers. I went to the local Ace Hardware, and they had them. I like them better than those that I would have made from a piece of dowell, and they are very light. I did find some that were made from steel and even chrome plated, but they each weighed 4 oz, so I passed on them. They sure would have looked pretty though.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bill,

Typical big box response with the blank look (too much turnover?). They do have them though in the drawers with all the non-bulk, odd size, misc. parts, metric, brass, nylon, stainless and other stuff, usually an isle long at elbow hieght. You just have to look a bit. Ace on the other hand, usually have people that have been there a while and know what you are talking about (even when you don't know what it is called)and where to find it.

SuperCub Man

John - A while back when I posted pix of my corrugated ailerons based on an idea by khodges, you pointed out the daunting task of putting in the rivets. Here is a process I developed after talking to another scale modeller at our yearly Kitchener Scale Rally. The first, rather crooked set to the left of the pencil, are made with a 1/16" wire punch and no fence installed to keep them even. The rivets to the right of the pencil are made with a .04 something? wire and with a fence installed to keep them about 1/8" off the edge. The secret is to have a tube on the reverse side to flatten out the edges of the rivet, otherwise you get too much of a dome on it.
I'm pleased with the result and I can punch around 50 or 60 per minute. Which size to you think is better, or does it matter?

Stickbuilder

John,

No, I did look in all the specialty drawers, and no luck at all. It would appear that if they con't come in a pre-packaged blister pack, Lowe's has no interest in carrying it any longer. That, plus the kid that was working in the hardware department, seemed to have about the same knowledge of hardware as he did quantum cybernetics. And he wasn't interested in learning.

Jim,

I would go with the evenly spaced rivets. They look more correct, and in scale modeling, that is the key. It's an illusion that we are perputrating.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1